Senna88 My NSX Refresh

[Senna88]

Didn't really know where to put this, but here seems as good as any.So I picked up my NSX just over 2 weeks ago and have started to bring it back to the condition it deserves. By the way, I'm not going to do a refresh anywhere near like what Sudesh and Kaz are doing, in fact I'm hoping Kaz will be able to fit me in for a health check before the year-long wait he mentioned to me!! I guess this is more my story of owning a dream car, and certainly one that I've cherished like no other :)So the car came with 7 spoke wheels but the paint was flaking and bubbling around the centre. So I decided first on the list was to get them powdercoated to a gunmetal colour. I wanted a colour that wasn't too dark as the Charlotte Green can look almost black at night, and I personally think black wheels suit racing cars and such rather than 'regular' cars. So I opted for gunmetal based on various pictures on the company's website.Come to the day I dropped them off, I saw the gunmetal in the flesh and was surprised that it was a LOT darker than I had thought, and had a bit of a moment! I decided to go for a lighter, black chrome finish as it looked a lot lighter and classier in my eyes, fingers crossed it would turn out ok!Anyway picked them up and they're now on the car, I'm not fully decided about them, haven't looked at the car long enough to make my mind up, but they're done now so I won't mess about with them again anytime soon...
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[Senna88]

On the same day, it was pouring it down and while using the boot as my toolbox I'd noticed that the water wasn't really draining properly from the channels. There seemed like a lot of gunk trapped in and around there and the seals, so I decided to remove the rear lights (as I wanted to replace one anyway) and clean it all up. I'd read on Prime that this may solve the problem, due to blocked channels around the lights.

Few cobwebs under the wing
11147

One side cleaned
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11149

[Senna88]

As the weather was a bit better today my friend decided to give it a detail for me, he has a great attention to the small things and I'm pretty sure is OCD! He is great at bringing back finishes though, my black top was looking not so black before, now its all gleaming and glossy as it should be! Anyway here's the result of his efforts :)

Stage 1: Snowfoam
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Stage 2: Clay
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Stage 3: Machine polish
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Stage 4: Waxing
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Stage 5: Step back and admire (his) work just before it rains :(
11154

[AR]

The seals are not much but regular b&q insulation deals can be used if push comes to shove. If they have not got it already when the lights are out is a good time for drilling some ventilation/drain holes.

I love the way Charlotte green changes colour.

[Senna88]

The seals are not much but regular b&q insulation deals can be used if push comes to shove. If they have not got it already when the lights are out is a good time for drilling some ventilation/drain holes.

I love the way Charlotte green changes colour.

As a replacement for what Ary?

Just noticed my rear bumper looks a totally different shade to the rest of the car =/

Lights have been drilled :) Though the the centre piece, I need a new one.

[AR]

As a quick fix for the taillight seals mate.

[Hondaboy]

As a quick fix for the taillight seals mate.

Exactly what I used recently after removing tail lights for tinting and hole drilling no condensation since and my car lives outside

[Sudesh]

Would have been nice if you had of choose different words for the title! I clicked on this a few times now thinking people replied on my thread.

Keep up the good work though!

Cleaning up behind the lights will help for sure and new seals is a must.

However if you have condensation in the lights, then personally drilling holes in the them is not the solution. I mentioned this before, and been down that road, it helped but wasnt great. Your ony bypassing the problem, not curing it.

[Senninha]

........Would have been nice if you had of choose different words for the title! I clicked on this a few times now thinking people replied on my thread..... .

Hopefully this works for both of you :)

[TheSebringOne]

Refresh looks good.

When you have some time, may be get the H on the centre caps of your wheels back to black?

[NSXGB]

Refresh looks good.

When you have some time, may be get the H on the centre caps of your wheels back to black?

If the center caps have never been touched before the 'H' should be a metal 'sticker' at the bottom of the recess. If you are really careful, you can lever it out, paint it and glue it back. Did this to a set of caps a while back and they came out pretty good.

[scottg]

Exactly what I used recently after removing tail lights for tinting and hole drilling no condensation since and my car lives outside

I have a little damp in one of the rear lights where do you guys suggest I drill ventilation holes and what size please?

[Sudesh]

I have a little damp in one of the rear lights where do you guys suggest I drill ventilation holes and what size please?

You dont drill.

You need to replace the boot gaskets first. If you still have some condensation then the actual seal around the light lense has gone bad somewhere. You can either seal the edges of the lamp with some type of silicone ad see how that goes, or buy a new lamp.

Drilling is NOT the solution.

I did it years ago, it worked a bit but condensation still appeared, eventually it got worse. I replaced the boot/tailight gaskets and it completely cleared up the passenger side, the drivers side was almost perfect but still signs of condensation appeared. So currently I'm either going to seal the lamp edges with silicone or just buy a new one.

Again, drilling holes is not the answer.

[Senna88]

Sorry Sudesh, didn't mean to tread on your toes. My brain couldn't think of anything more imaginative at the time!

The holes were already in the lights, and the seals look good so far so I'll monitor them and see how it goes :beer:


Would have been nice if you had of choose different words for the title! I clicked on this a few times now thinking people replied on my thread.

Keep up the good work though!

Cleaning up behind the lights will help for sure and new seals is a must.

However if you have condensation in the lights, then personally drilling holes in the them is not the solution. I mentioned this before, and been down that road, it helped but wasnt great. Your ony bypassing the problem, not curing it.

[Senna88]

I actually bought some red 'H' stickers last night as I'm planning on sticking them on the centre caps and then maybe putting a couple of layers of lacquer over them to hold them there. I'm still not decided on the wheels though, I think they're too small or the car is too high...


Refresh looks good.

When you have some time, may be get the H on the centre caps of your wheels back to black?

[Sudesh]

Sorry Sudesh, didn't mean to tread on your toes. My brain couldn't think of anything more imaginative at the time!

The holes were already in the lights, and the seals look good so far so I'll monitor them and see how it goes :beer:

Fill the holes, put new gaskets and go from there. Really is the best way.

[Hondaboy]

Drilling is NOT the solution.

Well you've changed your tune sudesh it was your advice to drill holes in previous posts that encouraged me to do the same:rolleyes:

Only kidding I guess you live and learn eh?

[Sudesh]

Drilling is NOT the solution.

Well you've changed your tune sudesh it was your advice to drill holes in previous posts that encouraged me to do the same:rolleyes:

Only kidding I guess you live and learn eh?

I done the drilling method way back 4 or 5 years ago on my own NSX because most suggested it done the trick. But learned down the line that it doesnt do the job correctly. So I done some more investigation and learned the only proper solution is:

1. Tail light gaskets, If that doesnt work then,
2. Re-seal the tail light edges themselves [if number 1 doesnt work]
3. Buy new light [if none of the above cure it completely]

As mentioned I still have a problem in one lens after doing step one, so I'm now thinking of buying a new lamp unit as Im not a fan of using silicone as it probably wont do a great job. But I can try it and report back.

[nobby]

purchasing new seals for my own lights ... drilling is not the answer in this country due to weather, alright in states in the us, as they have better/warmer conditions so lights over time can dry out over time ...

re ur wheels in the process of colour change myself ... similar look as yourself ... red badge does not suit that wheel colour, saw it for myself this morning as was thinking of doing the same :no: ... likely a black or silver type look will be the best way

car looking well ... always likes the charlotte green myself :cool:

keep up the good work ... thought someone hijacked sudesh's thread at first ... dangerous that!!!! :D

[Hondaboy]

I done the drilling method way back 4 or 5 years ago on my own NSX because most suggested it done the trick. But learned down the line that it doesnt do the job correctly. So I done some more investigation and learned the only proper solution is:

1. Tail light gaskets, If that doesnt work then,
2. Re-seal the tail light edges themselves [if number 1 doesnt work]
3. Buy new light [if none of the above cure it completely]

As mentioned I still have a problem in one lens after doing step one, so I'm now thinking of buying a new lamp unit as Im not a fan of using silicone as it probably wont do a great job. But I can try it and report back.

I know it's cheating drilling holes in them to be honest I need new lights as they were in a poor state when I got the car, think someone tried re sealing them in the past but caused more harm than good broken fixing bolts, lots of small cracks on inside of lenses hence why I got them tinted to tidy them up a bit.

[jaytip]

I drilled small holes on the bottom of the lights in my first NSX and never had a problem again.I also made sure i never left anything wet in the boot as well,because that can cause condensation.

[mjames75]

Cars looking nice :-)

[Senna88]

A small update here.

Haven't done much to the car, mainly been making the most of the weather! Changed the air filter, sorted the CCU board courtesy of Kaz, and cleaned and adjusted the aspirator fan while I was in there. I'd cleaned the fan before and removed a fair amount of dust but there was still a slight buzzing sound coming from it, luckily this is well documented on Prime. I now have a perfectly silent interior! Which actually is pretty significant to me as I've removed my aerial and am using one of those old school wired-tape external headphone adaptor things connected to my phone etc for music, but I can't always be bothered to plug it in.

Gave the engine bay a clean, and scrubbed the valve cover plate:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8313/7902838146_0afc732fc6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7902838146/)
NSX engine angle (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7902838146/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Also painted the coolant tank black in anticipation of getting an NSX-R style engine cover:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8312/7902854654_5b09e2734d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7902854654/)
Painted coolant tank (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7902854654/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Am still debating whether to paint the manifold covers red or not, as I'm not sure if it compliments the Charlotte Green paintwork...

[Sudesh]

Really like the valve cover photo! And your car has come along nicely.

Personally I wouldn't paint the manifold covers red, but to add a small touch of NA1 NSX-R, I would either paint or change the valve cover plate, to NSX-R type. It's a small touch, but small touches are nice.

[Senna88]

I didn't know what one looked like but googled it and yes that's what I'm planning on doing (after seeing pictures of yours in fact!) What paint did you use though? I'm guessing using a small brush and some kind of acrylic paint?

[Problem Child]

Exactly what I used recently after removing tail lights for tinting and hole drilling no condensation since and my car lives outside

Not only does your car live outside...Its in Scottland where it pi55e5 down all the time!!! LOL

[Senna88]

Quite a productive day today, managed to change my spark plugs without any hassle. There was slight corrosion on the bottom of the tops of the rear coils, possibly due to the seal on the cover not being positioned correctly in the past but a good rub with some wet and dry cleaned that up. While the coils were out I tested the resistance and all showed 1.4 ohms so I'm pretty happy with that (as IIRC they are around £130 each from Honda). Anyone with more knowledge than me willing to give an opinion on the old plugs? I know the pic isn't great but they were pretty oily, and the base of the white bit was a bit brown.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8321/7945812594_ebe4b6a8c3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945812594/)
Honda NSX front bank spark plugs and coils (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945812594/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8461/7945809100_1d6e1d3de5_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945809100/)
Honda NSX resistance across ignition coils (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945809100/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr


After my air con service by Avondale Honda a couple of weeks ago, I didn't feel like the air was that cold. Upon checking the fuses I found out the fuse for the off-side fan had blown. Replaced it and could hear the fan going but still no cold air so have booked in to see them again next week.

I had been looking around in the garage for my tube of Shin-Etsu grease for awhile now, left-over from my s2000 but hadn't managed to locate it, until today! :) So greased up the window rubbers and door surround, and will get the rest of the seals done over the next week or so.

From another thread, I had an intermittent issue where the lock would sometimes cycle a few times when unlocking, as if the car hadn't registered that it'd unlocked the door. So I took a look at the lock on the driver's side, wiggled a few wires and hey presto it stopped! When re-assembling though, it came back although not as bad (only one extra cycle rather than 4 or so). Sudesh does this point to a possible ground wire problem? When I get a chance I plan on taking the pins out of the connectors and cleaning them but any ideas?

[Senna88]

Finally I decided to take the engine cover off and see what it was like. Initial impressions - slightly louder inside cabin, I notice the typical Honda tappet noise a bit more, and a slight hissing/whooshing when in VTEC heading for the limiter. I've decided I like it :) Not noticed the glass hatch rattling either, it's a snug click when locking it and there's no upwards movement when I pull on it, but may pad it a little just in case.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8442/7945798378_3c8e50a8dd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945798378/)
Honda NSX exposed engine (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945798378/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Overall a happy day :)

[Sudesh]

I didn't know what one looked like but googled it and yes that's what I'm planning on doing (after seeing pictures of yours in fact!) What paint did you use though? I'm guessing using a small brush and some kind of acrylic paint?

Yeah pretty much! I just had my local paint shop make up some automotive stuff, and used a small brush. still looks good today!

[Sudesh]

Finally I decided to take the engine cover off and see what it was like. Initial impressions - slightly louder inside cabin, I notice the typical Honda tappet noise a bit more, and a slight hissing/whooshing when in VTEC heading for the limiter. I've decided I like it :) Not noticed the glass hatch rattling either, it's a snug click when locking it and there's no upwards movement when I pull on it, but may pad it a little just in case.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8442/7945798378_3c8e50a8dd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945798378/)
Honda NSX exposed engine (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945798378/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Overall a happy day :)

I went down this route at the start, but the more I seen it off, the more it just doesn't look right. The NSX engine for me, isn't tarted up enough like the F cars or lambos, to be totally on display, plus the actual line and flow from the body to the engine looked wrong to me, as the flow looks like it comes to a gaping hole because you can see the ridge/surround of the engine bay too much without the cover, and the engine sits below that ridge, if you know what I mean.

After about a 5 days of looking at the engine without its cover, I decided to put it back on lol. I then eventually changed to the NSX-R style one which does th job perfect, shows enough of the engine without being overkill.

Less is more lol

[Senna88]

Oh almost forgot! So I've had my aerial removed and the hole welded as I thought the sheer size of the thing was pretty unsightly and reception great at the best of times anyway. This condemned me to the CD changer or a tape-with-a-wire-coming-out-of-it to plug into my phone, mp3 player etc for entertainment on the move. I'd checked a couple of times to see if the radio did still work but no luck...until today! I had some CDs in the changer, but I've noticed when you turn off the stereo and then back on, it doesn't automatically revert back to the CD. I worked out to get it going again (as pressing play doesn't seem to do anything) that I'd cycle through am, fm, mw and then back to CD, but this time on passing FM I got Radio 1! Crystal clear! I'm baffled...didn't have a chance to check the aerial cable but I don't want to jinx it so might just enjoy it while I can :)

(I did install a screw that was missing from the bottom right of the stereo the other day...could that have solved the problem?)

[Sudesh]

Quite a productive day today, managed to change my spark plugs without any hassle. There was slight corrosion on the bottoms, possibly due to the seal on the cover not being positioned correctly in the past but a good rub with some wet and dry cleaned that up. While the coils were out I tested the resistance and all showed 1.4 ohms so I'm pretty happy with that (as IIRC they are around £130 each from Honda). Anyone with more knowledge than me willing to give an opinion on the old plugs? I know the pic isn't great but they were pretty oily, and the base of the white bit was a bit brown.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8321/7945812594_ebe4b6a8c3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945812594/)
Honda NSX front bank spark plugs and coils (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945812594/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8461/7945809100_1d6e1d3de5_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945809100/)
Honda NSX resistance across ignition coils (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/7945809100/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr


After my air con service by Avondale Honda a couple of weeks ago, I didn't feel like the air was that cold. Upon checking the fuses I found out the fuse for the off-side fan had blown. Replaced it and could hear the fan going but still no cold air so have booked in to see them again next week.

I had been looking around in the garage for my tube of Shin-Etsu grease for awhile now, left-over from my s2000 but hadn't managed to locate it, until today! :) So greased up the window rubbers and door surround, and will get the rest of the seals done over the next week or so.

From another thread, I had an intermittent issue where the lock would sometimes cycle a few times when unlocking, as if the car hadn't registered that it'd unlocked the door. So I took a look at the lock on the driver's side, wiggled a few wires and hey presto it stopped! When re-assembling though, it came back although not as bad (only one extra cycle rather than 4 or so). Sudesh does this point to a possible ground wire problem? When I get a chance I plan on taking the pins out of the connectors and cleaning them but any ideas?

When I change the spark plugs, I also check the seals on the cover, and most of the time I'll replace them as they get hard/brittle and eventually won't be doing their job. The rear bank is always the worst for corrosion because water coming through the rear hatch vent dripps down over that point, you will usually see the sign on the plug and the coil, as you noticed, not the cheapest from Honda.

When you say you took a look at the lock and wiggled some wires, can you explain a bit more? I assume you had the door card off?

[Senna88]

Yes, took it off and on the female connector all 3 looked fine. On the male side, the right one (white with green line I think) was ever so slightly angled but other than that they were fine. It was getting dark so I just re-assembled it for now, I guess the best thing is to take the connectors apart and have a proper look.

The valve cover seals looked in good condition, I think they were replaced 2 years ago anyway so I was happy to re-use.

[Senna88]

I went down this route at the start, but the more I seen it off, the more it just doesn't look right. The NSX engine for me, isn't tarted up enough like the F cars or lambos, to be totally on display, plus the actual line and flow from the body to the engine looked wrong to me, as the flow looks like it comes to a gaping hole because you can see the ridge/surround of the engine bay too much without the cover, and the engine sits below that ridge, if you know what I mean.

After about a 5 days of looking at the engine without its cover, I decided to put it back on lol. I then eventually changed to the NSX-R style one which does th job perfect, shows enough of the engine without being overkill.

Less is more lol

I agree, it was more of a test to see if cabin noise increased by much, as I like that it's quite civilised when cruising and for that reason don't want an aftermarket exhaust/induction kit to ruin that side of things for me. I have seen your engine cover and am very interested, I just need to save the pennies! Will you still be making them after winter? As my car might be hibernating soon...

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Quite a productive day today, managed to change my spark plugs without any hassle. There was slight corrosion on the bottoms, possibly due to the seal on the cover not being positioned correctly in the past but a good rub with some wet and dry cleaned that up. While the coils were out I tested the resistance and all showed 1.4 ohms so I'm pretty happy with that (as IIRC they are around £130 each from Honda). Anyone with more knowledge than me willing to give an opinion on the old plugs? I know the pic isn't great but they were pretty oily, and the base of the white bit was a bit brown...................

Hi, Senna88.
Just some comments on the IG coils, etc.

You can only check the primary side of the IG coil using the multimeter.
It’s a transformer so you can’t check the secondary side that will be damaged on most of the time when the coil head expanded due to the heavy rust/corrosion at the base structure.

So, even you read 1.4ohm at the primary side, it doesn’t guarantee that your IG coil is fine.
Having said this, IG coil itself doesn’t fail so often (apart from the heavily expanded/corroded ones at the rear bank) and it’s more likely to be crack in the flex tube or loosing good seal due to the moisture in the plug hole.

So, unless you have misfire, just keep using the same IG coil but apply silicone grease around the internal/external wall of the flex tube to keep it flexible as well as to shut out the moisture.



Even with the new spark plug, you may see light brown marking at the base of the insulator after putting some mileage.
It’s not the corrosion but it’s the result of corona discharge and won’t affect the performance of the plug.
It’s mainly caused by the oil mist under high voltage environment.


Corrosion will occur almost at the edge of the metal crimped body so it’s a different thing.



Almost impossible to tell the state of your old spark plug but if you are saying they were ‘pretty oily’,
then you may have tired plug hole seal at the valve cover (if the hex metal body was wet) or
the spark plug was not torqued properly.


It’s very important to torque the spark plug correctly as there were several reports of plug or even engine damages caused by the loose plug.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YFYqOVDbJWc/UEmyF-3WXGI/AAAAAAAAEws/9dhtGIC2s1Q/s640/sparkplug01.jpg
This photo will show you the result of loose spark plug........
And it’s not the first time I saw similar things on NSX engine..........







https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M_EJNypvTbI/UEmyGmlkQxI/AAAAAAAAEww/nziaHPz3GyM/s640/sparkplug02.jpg
By the way, if using the aftermarket spark plug, make sure to select the one WITHOUT the hole at the top terminal like this one.
If you look inside of the IG coil tube where it meets the spark plug top terminal, you will see spring loaded black needle.
It will wear down due to the vibration as the needle stuck in the top terminal hole.


Just stick with the standard OEM spec NGK or Denso spark plugs.



(All photos are courtesy of Mr Toyoizumi at KSP Engineering, Japan)

Kaz

[Sudesh]

I agree, it was more of a test to see if cabin noise increased by much, as I like that it's quite civilised when cruising and for that reason don't want an aftermarket exhaust/induction kit to ruin that side of things for me. I have seen your engine cover and am very interested, I just need to save the pennies! Will you still be making them after winter? As my car might be hibernating soon...

The cone type induction kits are not worth it anyway, and they don't increase noise by that much. However you could go with the side induction scoop and keep the OEM airbox [a few of us have this setup] and there is barely any increase at all, plus Arys exhaust is very nicely made and again with that setup I think you would be pleasantly surprised!

Reference the engine cover, I was referring to the standard solid one, I went back to that FIRST, before I eventually got the R version. I might still be making them come the winter, I'll see how things go with this first trial.

[Senna88]

Hi, Senna88.
So, unless you have misfire, just keep using the same IG coil but apply silicone grease around the internal/external wall of the flex tube to keep it flexible as well as to shut out the moisture.

Almost impossible to tell the state of your old spark plug but if you are saying they were ‘pretty oily’,
then you may have tired plug hole seal at the valve cover (if the hex metal body was wet) or
the spark plug was not torqued properly.

Just stick with the standard OEM spec NGK or Denso spark plugs.

Kaz

Hi Kaz,

Thanks for your comments. They were the OEM spec NGK PFR6G-11 plugs, for a very reasonable £45!

Is Shin-Etsu grease fine to use on the flex tube?

I'll probably be spraying my valve covers soon so I'll replace the seals in case that was the problem.

[Sudesh]

Hi Kaz,

Thanks for your comments. They were the OEM spec NGK PFR6G-11 plugs, for a very reasonable £45!

Is Shin-Etsu grease fine to use on the flex tube?

I'll probably be spraying my valve covers soon so I'll replace the seals in case that was the problem.

If you go to the extreme of taking the covers off to paint them, then there are a couple more seals I would be replacing when in that far. Also watch out for 12 rubber type washers [6 per cover] make sure to collect them all before completely removing the covers as they are easy to loose, be careful removing the rear cover as its a tighter squeeze, you need to do a bit of rotating to get it out, and DONT damage timing belt! If you know how, I'd also check the valves for adjustment too.

[Senna88]

A small update - my didn't seem to have any 'bite' and so didn't feel me with confidence when pressing on. Bought a caliper seal kit with the intent on stripping all the calipers down and making sure everything was tip-top.

The middle jacking point helped save a lot of time and faffing about when getting it onto axle stands, a useful and well thought out idea from Honda :)

Front brakes - pistons moved in and out freely, slight bit of rust on the pistons so rubbed them down a bit but seals looked in good condition so just gave them a scrub with a wire brush, greased the sliding pins and put them back on. Pads all looked in good condition, about half-worn and discs were fine save for surface rust on the edges.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8457/8051547770_62961f090e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051547770/)
NSX front brakes (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051547770/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Rear brakes were the same, so again re-greased and re-fitted. I suspect I may have to replace these in the near future (after winter I guess) as one side has worn in a bit of a weird fashion, presumably because new pads were put on without new discs and so the pads are probably not as effective as they could be.

So all back together, and decided the fluid was due a flush and bleed as its not clear in the service history I received with the car when it was last done. Decided to go for RBF 600 fluid due to its high boiling point as I will probably do some track days in the future.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8172/8051539901_9cb82a8019_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051539901/)
RBF Motul 600 with bleeder (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051539901/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

[Senna88]

Hadn't used an assisted bleeder before, but it saved a lot of time! Easy enough to use on your own, but just for peace of mind did a quick round with a mate pumping the pedal to make sure there was no air in the lines.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8455/8051539898_317d3468e8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051539898/)
NSX rear brake bleed (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051539898/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

When I do change the pads and discs I'll probably paint the calipers with that gold finish the facelift cars have, subtle and clean.

A final quick shot of the beading on my roof due to a couple of layers of wax my friend put on for me :)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/8051537091_58032ef513_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051537091/)
IMAG0984 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8051537091/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

[Senna88]

Just a few cosmetic updates as the car's tucked up for winter:

The NSX 'titanium' key:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8215264000_21ebbd6a5b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8215264000/)
Honda NSX 'titanium' key (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8215264000/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Painted the 'H' on the engine cover plate:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8216927433_01fb3429cb_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8216927433/)
Honda NSX engine plate (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62764305@N02/8216927433/) by Senna88 (http://www.flickr.com/people/62764305@N02/), on Flickr

Looking to do the valve covers in red next, and maybe adjust the valves while I'm in there...not looking forward to it!

[Senna88]

Just a quick 'end of winter' update, took it for its MOT yesterday and it flew through! Hadn't been started for a while but when it did, made a glorious growl :)

So I'll be giving it an oil change next week and getting it ready for a few road trips this summer.

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