Headers wanted, either oem or stainless, I'm not Fussy

[mattwithers]

My headers have rusted so need a new set asap. Will look at either original equipment or stainless. Please contact Matt on 07970 868688 or matt@silverss.com, Thanks

[Sudesh]

My headers have rusted so need a new set asap. Will look at either original equipment or stainless. Please contact Matt on 07970 868688 or matt@silverss.com, Thanks

What engine is your car?

Andrew [Nobby] should have a good set of OEM for 3.0 engine

[Hagasan]

Also have a set of OEM 3.0l manifolds available on mainland...... but they all rust anyway?? Guess yours are aftermarket?

[Sudesh]

Also have a set of OEM 3.0l manifolds available on mainland...... but they all rust anyway?? Guess yours are aftermarket?

lol, like that little mainland touch, Andrews came of a rust free JDM car! Better header than UK http://codex.wordpress.org/images/4/4b/icon_wink.gif

[havoc]

I'm also in the market soon (there's a small leak from the rearward bank)...wondering whether to go for OE again, OE 3.2, or AE like the TopSpeed ones advertised last week.

Any comments either which way???

[NSXGB]

IMHO, if you are going to the trouble to change them, you may as well go for an upgrade. I have the top speed manifolds as have a few others on here which give good gains and are lighter to say the least. They are much cheaper than buying new OE too.

Congrats on Joshua BTW.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Not sure the OP has aftermarket header , OEM cast manifold (3.0L) or OEM stainless header (3.2L) but there are several options as mentioned above.

The cheapest method would be to weld it if the issue (crack/leakage) is at the flange/pipe and not within the flex joint.
Please note that the OEM one is twin tube design to keep the exhaust gas temperature high before entering the CAT.

If the damage is within the flex joint, you can cut that part off and weld in the replacement one but probably cheaper to just get second hand OEM one and replace the whole part.
OEM NA2 design uses the spring loaded slip ring/gasket instead of flex joint so that's a different story.

I was told that the OEM 3.0L manifold was designed to cap the engine power so if you are having problem with the OEM NA1 one, then it may be the opportunity to consider the aftermarket route.


As NSXGB mentioned, the one from Top Speed seemed to be at very competitive price with reasonable performance.
There was mixed feedback on fitment especially with the early batch and some people mentioned issue on installation and ended up trimming off the part of the front beam just behind the fuel tank.
I have never installed Top Speed one but it seems that as long as you get the latest batch, the installation seemed to be OK.


There are several well known manufactures offering the aftermarket headers but please use your own judgement on the advertised power increase with dyno data because you need to consider the engine as a package.

You may want to consider replacing the O2 sensors at the same time if your NSX is pre OBD-2 spec and covered more than 60K miles.

You can re-use the metal gasket at the exhaust port but if replacing, please use the one for NA2 (3.2L) even on the NA1 engine (compatible) as the hole diameter is slightly larger than the one for NA1.

Same can be said for the locking nut.

Please use the one for NA2 even on the NA1 as it has better surface treatment and provides better protection against corrosion.

Kaz

[Sudesh]

I'm also in the market soon (there's a small leak from the rearward bank)...wondering whether to go for OE again, OE 3.2, or AE like the TopSpeed ones advertised last week.

Any comments either which way???

Another member from here has Topspeed fitted and was happy with the results, good value too. He got the later batch but still some very small side with fitment. When you see the old compared to the new, it's amazing Honda didn't design something better, but as mentioned in the past, it was purposely done to restrict the car.

[havoc]

Thanks guys. Sounds like NA2 is a good option but moderately pricey and changes 'back-end' fitment, TopSpeed good VFM but may need some chassis adjustment, or look at other AE...

[paulc]

Hi Havoc I fitted a Topspeed header onto mine, had to cut a small bit out of the front beam and do a little bit of "metal bending" to stop the new header pipes rubbing on the exhaust pipe, literally a couple of mils. Nightmare to change even with a ramp, the maniflod bolts where well and truly rusted in and the O2 sensors where a pig as well. If you are going to do the job yourself allow a good full day.

Regards

Paul

[PeterW]

New headers are on my already rather long list of things to get/jobs to do. I had read about Topspeed fitting problems, specifically the flange holes having to be slotted to fit onto the studs at the cylinder head, and having to chop bits off the car to get them to fit. So I emailed Topspeed and asked them if they could comment. This is their reply:
"We have addressed and overcome flange issues. It appeared to have been a few defects in the production batch.

You can view the pictures on this listing to see where a small notch is needed for the header clearance:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-NSX-3-0L-91-94-Top-Speed-Pro-1-Exhaust-Header-Headers-Wire-plug-/230837374822?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35befacf66."

They have provided some good pictures of the clearance you have to create to get the front header on. On this basis I've decided that when I do get new headers, I will get Topspeed ones.

HTH
Peter

[britlude]

i've topspeed headers on mine, fitted them 5 years ago and had no issues at all!! went straight on, and far far better than the cast iron boat anchors that were fitted from the factory!!!

so whatever they tweaked they should tweak it back!!!