my DRL's are done..... (there will be pics!)

[britlude]

My DRL story... ('daylight running lights'... for the search engine as DRL is too short!)

Jumping on the bandwagon, I’ve wanted to integrate some DRL’s onto my car, mainly because it’s my car and I can, but just lately there has been an increase in people seemingly not seeing my car, so anything to help!

I’ve seen various threads on various sites, and to be quite honest they look a bit ‘add’-on’. So taking advantage of the indicator/side light units on the pre-facelift front I started looking for stuff! Donor lamp units, so I can return it all to stock easily if need be, and something to use as the DRL’s themselves.


I wanted to go DRL, but keep the indicator facility as well, as is required over here. The US ones I’ve seen delete the indicators completely, or use a flashing DRL for the indicator function. That’s all very well on a ‘50’s Austin, but no good for a UK NSX.

I sourced some donor lamp units, one from this site, the other dragged from the bottom of a pond and sent over from the U.S of A…

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/IMAG1497.jpg

yes, it is covered in ginger rust on the inside of the lens....

Then lamps lenses were split from their bases, easy on the pond-life one, a total pain on the british one. Referring to the NSXprime threads, it’s implied they are glued together, and a good dunking in hot water will soften the glue to split them. However, I found no glue, but what looks more like the parts were ultrasonically bonded… that is, they were held together, then ultrasonics (micro vibrations) applied, which caused the interface between the bits to ‘shuffle’ melting the plastics together. So the pond life one fell apart (long term dunking obviously does something!), the british one had to be cut apart with a thin dremmel blade. Just as well I got very used ones! the pond-life lense cleaned up beautifully (apart from the crack!) and interestingly pretty much all the chrome plating on the reflector had disappeared!


On the DRL front, pretty soon into my search I found these, cheap on ebay, with integral indicators, so worth a look….

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/507027039_o.jpg

…9 DRL lamps, surrounded by 16 amber LEDs… all sounds good and the internet pics look ok, but we all know they sometimes don’t look right on the computer.

In the flesh (or plastic) the white lights are good, nice and bright, with integral lenses, but the indicators are very poor, ok as a gimmick, and probably ok at night, but no good in the daylight. The other problem is that of the lights position on the car, the front indicators/sides are at quite an angle to the front of the car, and this will mean the DRLs will point out sideways, not forwards as they should. So back to square one, but it has shown me ‘superflux’ LEDs! It was a shame they were no good, as once trimmed, they fitted in the housing quite nicely.

ho hum, to be continued....

[britlude]

Next on the list was this type of DRL, a suitable size, and the angles are far better than the first ones. An added bonus was the lights came with a dimming circuit to reduce the light output when the headlights are switched on. A feature I will be needing later!


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/DRLO-1.jpg


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/DRL_AUDI.jpg


I could just put on the drls, and call it done, but just to complicate things, I want the lights to still be used as sidelights (if the car has to be left in a ‘needs sidelights’ place), so need to factor that into the control circuit. The DRLs, because they are next to the indicators, need to dim when the indicators are used, and not just when the indicators are on, but for their ‘off’ cycle too… so the lamp isn’t just alternating between bright white/ amber, but dim white, with a flashing amber! Oh, and only dim on the indicating side…. Oh, and the lights need to dim when the headlights go on! Simples!


I also ordered a shed-load of superflux amber LEDs for the indicators.
These are low current items, but with reasonable light output, and a wide output angle. Lots of high brightness LEDs gain their brightness rating by having a very narrow viewing angle, not a lot of help for indicators!. High current Luxeon LEDs would have been nice (as I’ve built lights for the hotrod, and know they are BRIGHT!) but space is an issue. Also, I’ve tried to avoid the ‘dotty’ look of widely spread lights by using more of the lower power LEDs. The added bonus is no heatsink issues to worry about!


And the designing begins!!!!

[mutley]

As always, I'll be following this thread very closely, Oh and I hope you will be ready for some orders once you have mastered them :-)


Jim

[britlude]

the continuing story......

First off…. LED spacing….. tried different spacings to see what I could get away with, as expected, the closer the better…. (sometimes i wonder why i even bother!)

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-05-2142.jpg

To mount them I was going to use strip-board, but there’s a curve in the light…. And not a lot of clearance on the outboard end…. So a perspex frame was cut and drilled to take the LEDs….

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-05-2140.jpg

So, the plan was to have a line of DRLs in the middle of the light, with a line of bright LEDs around this. Ok, a little bit Audi, but how it had to be with the room available. I wanted to use the first DRLs i found as the lens/support was clear with a black back cover. I had intended to use this without the black cover, and have the amber flooding through all of it, making for a fuller amber lamp. Alas it was not to be!

So, to mount the LEDs I made up a Perspex/lexan/clear-plastic-kicking-around-the-garage frame suitably drilled and at the same time this was to provide support for the DRL unit…. Something like this…

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-05-2137.jpg

I wasn’t worried about the differing curves as it will all be inside the original lens when it’s all together! (and a sneaky peak behind of the relay based circuit design required to do the dimming/switching i wanted, and an early strip-board layout!)

Anyway, a load of soldering later I had something that looked like this…

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-07-2152.jpg

ta-da!!

[britlude]

A quick mock up on the car with a battery pack looked like this….

the drl/sidelight…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-11-2157.jpg

indicator on it’s own (ie. if hazards are on….)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-11-2156.jpg

and both… (DRL is dimmer in this one compared to the first pic above, as it should be with the indicator on!)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-11-2158.jpg

ok, not so bright as the original straight on (no surprise there as it’s up against a 21W bulb and reflector!) But the light is as good/better from other angles
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-11-2164.jpg

all looking good so far. What it has shown if the LEDs are sensitive to the positioning between them and the original lens, as the front nsx lens has 5 bar lenses moulded into it. Also now the indicator extends further to the outside than the original.

So looking good… but could be better!

Back to the garage!!!!

[britlude]

As always, I'll be following this thread very closely, Oh and I hope you will be ready for some orders once you have mastered them :-)


Jim

at least you'll see what happened to your lights... the broken one was the development mule, so i could work out just what needed chopping out!

[britlude]

So back in the garage…

well, I can see a huge gap on the inside of the light just begging to have LEDs in it! However there isn’t a lot of height between the lamp housing and lens cover, so a bit of a file of the housing to grab another mm or 2 height, and then an array of LEDs glued together (and soldered as flush as I could get) add another 20 LEDs to the count….

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-12-2165.jpg

fills it out quite nicely, but 3 of the original LED’s are shielded by the DRL unit, so another tweak looses these, and bulks up the LED count at the outboard end! (BTW the black line across it is an elastic band holding it together!)

Here’s what I mean…
Before on top and after below
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-13-2170.jpg

the top version 1 has 5 columns, the new only 4. It shows up in the above pic, but from a different angle they vanish!
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-13-2171.jpg

so I swapped them out, and bulked up the outboard end. I could have left them and added the extra LEDs, but I’d ‘only’ ordered 200 and was running out!!!!

I would have liked to do the same at the outboard end, but there’s not enough room between the housing and lens cover, as it tapers through its whole length, just to be awkward! the difference in the LED intensity is down to the distance from the front lens cover. these pics were taken before everything was finally aligned and glued in!

Getting there tho!

[britlude]

As I want this to be a plug and play(ish) change, I fitted load resistors to make up for the lower current required for the LEDs vs the 21W bulb. A 50W aluminium cased resistor was used, with a piece of aluminium to give a little bit more heatsink capacity. As the resistor is at less than half its rated capacity, and it’s only used with a a 50% duty cycle it shouldn’t give any issues! Also you get to see a bit of the LED array…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-20-2212.jpg

the eagle eyed will notice that there’s no Perspex/lexan/clear-plastic-kicking-around-the-garage frame… after the initial try, it became apparent that the frame was blocking the LEDs at shallow angles, and, as I’m trying to utilise as much light from these LEDs as I can, it had to go!

Turns out I could have soldered them to stripboard after all! Still, live and learn! If it doesn’t work first time, bury the evidence and don’t tell anyone…. Oops!


You saw a sketch before of the control circuit, and with 5 relays, 6 diodes, 2 resistors and 2 capacitors I had a circuit that covered all I wanted….

1... sidelights can be switched on with ign off, and suitably dim

2... DRLs on with ignition

3... DRLs dim with sidelights (I chose sidelights as opposed to dipped beam as I already had a sidelight signal coming from the lamp units, the DRL’s are flipping bright at twilight, and I couldn’t be asked to find the dipped beam line!)

4... DRLs dim with the appropriate indicator! (for the whole cycle, not just the on bit! Like Audi A6, Range Rover Evoque, etc)

and put it all in a nice box!

As I mentioned earlier, the second set of DRLs came with a dimming circuit, in a nice potted sealed box. this was all very nice, but I only wanted 3 wires out of it, and it was too big. So where can you get a simple, small PWM (pulse width modulating) widget??? B&Q of course! What I use is the variable speed trigger off a cheap battery drill. Buy the cheapest variable speed 12v drill (I used one that cost a tenner last year) strip out the trigger, and you get a small adjustable transistor controlled dimmer unit. (also available at boot-fairs for about 3 quid!) The adjustable feature is an added bonus as it lets me tweak the dimmed light output in the real world!

Anyway, heres a pic of the circuit on stripboard with the DRL dimmer box beside the new drill based unit
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-22-2222.jpg

the dimmer circuit only has 3 connections, 12v, 0v and the switched earth PWM line. the DRLs are connected to +12 and earthed through the PWM wire.

now just trim it down, add a connector and slap it in a box!
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-24-2226.jpg

another quick mock-up, with the original style side light (LED bulb fitted) vs the DRL… quite bright!
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-21-2218.jpg

[britlude]

So the final result… if you’ve got this far! I have got 2 lights, with connectors to fit in the stock bulb holders. The light units have an extra 6 way cable coming out of each, taking signals and ground from the lamp units to the control box, and return wires to the DRLs.

Here’s the control box mounted beside the fuse box where i've picket up the switched ignition line…. also I’ve added a switch on it to disable the DRL should I get the urge, or just in case at MOT time!
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-25-2232.jpg

DRL on….
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-25-2235.jpg

DRL in sidelight mode…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-11-25-2236.jpg


And a video showing the indicator/DLR interaction… if it works.. (dumped it on youtube... works/embeds from there!)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGAH5cDUvT8

So, all in all it came out well, seems to work how I wanted it to. Now just to flatten out the dottyness…. I have found some polycarbonate holographic diffusing material, looks like it could do the trick (the sort of stuff BMW/Audi use) but 2 pieces big enough for the indicators are over £300…. So maybe not that then!

Lenticular lenses (like used in 3D birthday cards) have potential but give a line, maybe if I cross them?…. And then there’s the problem of finding some unprinted…..

[Senninha]

Fantastic results as expected really ... so thats two things I'd like to purchase from you now ....

regards, Paul

[NSXGB]

You're a clever old stick Jonathan! Good job.

[mutley]

Jonathan, that is truly fantastic work, and I'm glad my old lights were of use to you. Thart is exactly the kind of thing that can make the NSX look that little bit closer to a more modern car and still keep it's classic image.

I hope you are ready for orders !!!! (bloody hell that's another thing on the list, the reason I keep volunteering for Afghanistan Tours is so I can afford all this stuff when I get back)

Jim

[britlude]

The ongoing DRL development….


Now, the drls look good, work fine, but I’ve not been happy with the light output of the indicators. This was always going to be the stumbling block, the main cause being the LEDs I bought were supposed to be 12000mcd (a measure of the light output) but were more like 1200mcd… I wanted this type of LED as it has a good viewing angle, rather than the bright, but very narrow beam, output of conventional 5mm LEDs. So I kept an eye out for alternatives…


Step forward 5 LED superflux LEDs! Basically 5 LEDs in the one package…. 2 originals on the left, 4 of the new style on the right
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-28-2280.jpg


as with most things, the second go is a evolution of the first prototype, so this time the LEDs were on mounted on stripboard as I knew the design and layout…


the original set on top, as they were removed from the light housings, the new design at the bottom…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-30-2294.jpg


a lot neater, and more robust to handle! the black blob at the end of 2 black wires is a '5th' LED. The LEDs are in blocks of 5, and just to be awkward there are 94 visible! so to avoid any intensity differences an extra one is hidden behind the lamp. keeps it nice and simple with 5 LEDs in series with a 91 ohm resistor.


a pic of the layout… because of the actual housing design there’s not much room to play with on the inside edge on the light, so the 20 leds there are setup and soldered without stripboard, so all the LEDs are the same distance from the front lens…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-29-2285.jpg


once the boards were made up, the bend was put into the board to match the curve of the lense. The gentle curve was fixed by bending the board a little, and re-melting the solder. This was enough to set the gentle curves, the tighter end curve was tweaked by shimming the LEDs with clear plastic to encourage the tighter curve!...
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-29-2283.jpg

[britlude]

at a low voltage you can see the difference between the old and the new style, a single LED ‘bit’ versus 5 in the new
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-30-2298.jpg


it’s typical isn’t it, you only look at the pics and realise one LED has a duff ‘bit’ once it’s all together, sealed and back on the car!


It does also show the change to a more orange colour than the more yellow that the first set of LEDs have… the first ones were listed as yellow (amber)… that’ll be more yellow then, the second lot were listed as orange, but have a dominant wavelength of 608 which should be smack in the middle of ‘amber’! ideally one between the two would be nice!


Anyway… new vs old…. (ignore the 5 leds out at the bottom, a casualty of the removal process!)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-30-2293.jpg


and with the proper voltage applied…
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20drl/2012-12-29-2291.jpg


the light output is far better! and now actually casts light around the indicator where it didn't with the original version! i have ordered a couple of cheap LED dimmer circuits (PWM style) if i decide they are too bright, but in daylight they are fine, and following Audis and the like with OEM LED systems, they are no brighter than them.


To go with this, I received 2 sets of fast light/warm-up HIDs for Christmas, 5000k colour temperature (clean white with no blue tint) to enhance the overall lighting, and match the colour or the DRL/side lights. I’ve had HIDs before in just the dipped beam (6000k-too blue, 4300k-same colour as halogens, just brighter), and with these the main beam was next to useless. Now I’ve fitted HIDs in both the dipped and main… OMG! I can see where I’m going now!!! The dipped has a good clean cut off, but with main it’s a like beacon! And the fast light up of these units mean the headlight flash function still works. I shall see how they last, and might have to tweak things for the MOT if the tester has issues!

[gumball]

Looks nice and Christmassy.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Jonathan.

As always, nicely done with lots of consideration.
Once installed, it would be nice if you can upload the video with your DRL in operation.

I was planning to get the DRL from Nolden as they are the OEM supplier for lots of car manufactures.
There was a company selling it at reasonable price in UK but seemed to be out of business some point last year.
There is a vendor on NSX Prime who seemed to be using the same products but at premium price so not cost effective when considering the duty/tax for import especially when Nolden is based in Germany.
I don’t know whether Nolden will deal with the private buyer or not so may just ask them in the future.

Do you mind sharing the info on where you got these LED parts?
I normally get the LED parts from Japan as they check each items prior to shipment but some of them are out of stock at the moment and they won’t open until after 6th.
In US, superbrightleds.com is quite popular.


Kaz

[britlude]

the DRL/indicators look the same as the video i posted earlier, but with a better orange colour,still with the DRL dimming whilst the indicator is doing its thing. i shall sort a daylight video shortly.

( the 'yellow' video..)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGAH5cDUvT8

the LEDs came via ebay shop 'jeled', their item description '5mm 5-Chips 0.5W ORANGE SuperFlux LED 100mA 35Kmcd'

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290388337081?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398%204.m1423.l2649

i bought 240 pieces (off ebay) for $92 delivered

the DRL units i used are this type.... ebay again... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-Lights-LED-Fog-O-1-LAMPS-AUDI-/140825685806?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c9dd6f2e

these DRL came with a PWM dimming unit which is good for this application, but too bulky for my liking! i used a relay circuit to control the dimming/timing of the DRLs, but a simple circuit with a logic control and a driver FET will do the trick! i will investigate PIC chips one day!

[goldtop]

I'm going to be honest and say: I don't like them. And I have seen some on NSX Prime that I did like.

The amber colour seems washed out and the sidelight LEDs are too 'klunky' looking.

Sorry!

[britlude]

the amber colour IS washed out, and i'm not sure they were bright enough, so that's why I've changed them!

new vids as requested by Kaz. it is/was a dull day, and the lights are bleaching the camera!

DRL/indicators showing the dimming function

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0nGxRx4pvk

[britlude]

DRL/indicators close up, definitely over exposing the camera

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmsvMKJ17HI

a happy coincidence of using the superflux LEDs is the grid they make matches the grid pattern at the outboard end of the unmolested reflector/lens... if you look at the pic before pressing play, there's 2 columns of LEDs out-board, and the 'triangle' is reflector and lense. the in-side is 4 columns of LEDs and NO reflector

[britlude]

here's one of the whole caboodle with the HIDs... described as 0.1second switch on... check (they are light and pretty bright by the time the lights are up!).... 1 second to full brightness... not far off, and definitely better than previous versions that took up to 10 seconds!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snzEH3VDFkk

in the real world they don't flicker, just a product of the HID frequency and the camera frequency. also the camera has made them more blue for some reason, if anything they are less blue than the DRL. i'm surprised the camera coped with the main beam anyway (and i'm flashing the main headlights!)

[NSXGB]

Nice work. You're a clever old stick.

What make was the HID kit?

[britlude]

the hid ballasts are 'F3 fast bright'.... search for that and they pop up....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-F3-0-1s-Fast-Bright-AC-Quick-Star-Warm-up-Ballast-HID-Xenon-Silm-KIT-SET-/251150008581?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a79b50105
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20hids/f3fastbright.jpg

they are small and thin, had i not been worrying about potential heat issues, they would neatly fit on top of the light units, between the light unit and headlight cover! i eventually put them back to back (i've 2 ballasts for each side of course) and they fit neatly in the headlamp recess beside the headlamp, mounting on a hole already in the chassis!
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20hids/2013-01-03-2306.jpg

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/thisYup/nsx%20stuff/nsx%20hids/2013-01-03-2309.jpg

[NSXGB]

Many thanks, keep up the good work.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

.........
.........

the DRL units i used are this type.... ebay again... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-Lights-LED-Fog-O-1-LAMPS-AUDI-/140825685806?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c9dd6f2e

these DRL came with a PWM dimming unit which is good for this application, but too bulky for my liking! i used a relay circuit to control the dimming/timing of the DRLs, but a simple circuit with a logic control and a driver FET will do the trick! i will investigate PIC chips one day!
Hi, Jonathan.
Thank you for sharing the info.

I just laughed when I followed the above ebay link for the DRL.

It looked almost identical to the one (Premium Line Slim) that I was going to ask Nolden about.
http://www.noldengmbh.de/epaper/index.html#/16

I think it is listed as about Euro200 inc. PWM driver and loom but needs to check the fitment first using their drawing.


About GBP40 for the ebay one......


I just went back to the beginning of this thread and found out that you already posted the source of DRL in post #2 so apology in asking it again.


Another project for me this year then…..


Kaz

[sorepaws]

The ongoing DRL development….

once the boards were made up, the bend was put into the board to match the curve of the lense. The gentle curve was fixed by bending the board a little, and re-melting the solder. This was enough to set the gentle curves, the tighter end curve was tweaked by shimming the LEDs with clear plastic to encourage the tighter curve!...
]

Jonathon, isnt there a chance that the solder will fracture under stress and vibration ?

[britlude]

It looked almost identical to the one (Premium Line Slim) that I was going to ask Nolden about.
http://www.noldengmbh.de/epaper/index.html#/16

I think it is listed as about Euro200 inc. PWM driver and loom but needs to check the fitment first using their drawing.

About GBP40 for the ebay one......


they do look very similar! the ebay ones listed as being a little wider, but that might just be the measuring technique!

they were the only affordable ones i found that were obviously set-up to be mounted on a curved front with the required directional light, as DRLs are only supposed to point forward!

disappointingly, it does seem that an awful lot of products get re-packaged with a hefty markup!... sometimes not even re-packaged!



Jonathon, isnt there a chance that the solder will fracture under stress and vibration ?

i don't see that as being a problem, the stress in the board is already set, solder 'normalised' and not changing, and the LED boards are glued to the lamp housing itself so should avoid vibration.... but i have re-assembled the lens with silicon, as opposed to a more permanent glue, to allow any servicing it might need! (trying to think of everything!)

[Senninha]

So knowing how you have a low boredom threshold, when can we expect you to finish off the 'new' front end and upgrade the micro fogs to HID ....

it has certainly achieved that modern look you we're seeking ...

regards Paul

[mutley]

Jonathan, all I want to know is when you are taking orders ????

Looks really good and certainly more modern

Jim

[NSXGB]

Saw the DRL's in the flesh last night at the Mega Meet and have to say I'm impressed with the final result. Excellent work Jon.

[swhatley82]

Hi John, are you taking orders on these products?

Scott

[britlude]

alas, these are not 'products' just little projects to stop me getting too bored!

[goldnsx]

Where do you get 'hot on ignition' 12V in the front compartment. I've found out that the power windows in the fuse box are hot on ignition. I'm about to connect it there as it's only demanding 0.5 A. Any other/better one?

[Senninha]

Or use the front fog connections?

[britlude]

Where do you get 'hot on ignition' 12V in the front compartment. I've found out that the power windows in the fuse box are hot on ignition. I'm about to connect it there as it's only demanding 0.5 A. Any other/better one?

ignition 12v is in the front fusebox, the only big fuse with 12v switched (and therefore has easy to tap into screw connectors) is the one feeding the window wiper circuit... I tapped into that...


Or use the front fog connections?

.... but that's only live with the foglight switch, and turns on the side lights too....

[goldnsx]

ignition 12v is in the front fusebox, the only big fuse with 12v switched (and therefore has easy to tap into screw connectors) is the one feeding the window wiper circuit... I tapped into that...
Thanks for the hint. I've already dismounted the fuse box to get access on the back but the big fuse is easier. Thanks again.

Foglight switch: some in the US used it but I'm a lazy guy. So I want the DRL running with IGN ON automatically, much more elegant. :)

[Pride]

Thanks for the hint. I've already dismounted the fuse box to get access on the back but the big fuse is easier. Thanks again.

Foglight switch: some in the US used it but I'm a lazy guy. So I want the DRL running with IGN ON automatically, much more elegant. :)

Can we see a picture and are you going on the euro trip???
I do like a DRL 👍

[goldnsx]

I'm not able to join the Euro trip unfortunately. I'm going to post some pics here as soon as it's finished as I owe you some. :)

Here you go:

They are mounted in parallel to the lenses above and at the same vertical height. Yes, they are a little bit curved. This way they don't look 'tuned' or even 'tinkered'.

britlude's solution is the most elegant but risky over here as I try to avoid any discussions with 'our MOT people' as they are famous for...

[djwrays]

love them
is there anyone on here that could do this conversion for me ?
Dave