Timing Belt Service

[bbvnsx]

I'll be doing my timing belt service next year, so i'm considering replacing the following parts:

- OEM timing belt with Power Enterprise Super Kevlar II Timing Belt;
- Water Pump;
- Old stile LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) for the new ones;
- OEM Oil pum gear with Billet steel Oil Pump Gear - TODA RACING
- Fuel Filter
- Alternator belt
- A/C compressor belt
- spark plugs + seals
- OEM crank pulley with ATI Super Damper
- bolts, seals and gaskets of the parts I'm going to open
- cooling fluids
- oil + filter

Along with that i'll check my valves for adjustment, i'll take a look at VVIS plate bolts and may be installing new intake phenolic gaskets...

If i can get them, i'll be also installing new KSP headers...

and also the NSX-R coolant tank cover (as i got a brand new and beautiful NSX-R engine cover from sudesh :laugh::laugh::laugh:)

having in mind i'll be doing this extended service, is there anything else that i should look or replace?

Should i keep away from any of listed changes/upgrades?

I'm doing this to keep my NSX on top notch condition (adding some hp would be nice too ;)) so your advice would be very apreciated

Thank you,

Bruno

[gcon45]

It's all pretty much there.

Maybe add the timing belt tensioner + spring and the oil cooler 'figure of 8' seal?

[NSXGB]

Have a look at Kaz's blog for a few parts you've missed.

[UnhuZ]

Bruno,


- OEM timing belt with Power Enterprise Super Kevlar II Timing Belt;
good choice... i have the Toda belt... can't go wrong with either


- Old stile LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) for the new ones;
buy the SOS ones instead...i read somewhere that the new style required some
kind of spacer when replacing the old ones...SOS's already address this


- OEM Oil pum gear with Billet steel Oil Pump Gear - TODA RACING
where are you getting this?


- spark plugs
go with the NGK PFR6G-11 ones instead of the Denso


- OEM crank pulley with ATI Super Damper
i will go with a new OEM one... can't justify the cost


- cooling fluids
hint: At a dealer in Lisbon, i was asked 37€+IVA (VAT) for each liter ..
... you require at least 15, so do the math.... sometimes i think these
Honda guys in portugal are smoking uranium or plutonium cigarettes...



(...) and may be installing new intake phenolic gaskets...
go with Prospeed thermal ones... i already have them


having in mind i'll be doing this extended service, is there anything else that i should look or replace?
will think of more things you can look at.

Nuno

[NSXGB]

- Old stile LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) for the new ones;




buy the SOS ones instead...i read somewhere that the new style required some
kind of spacer when replacing the old ones...SOS's already address this

Nuno

Where did you hear this Nuno, not heard that before? I find that hard to believe.

[NSXGB]

Here's a good link for you Bruno.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service/page9&p=74593#post74593

[bbvnsx]

buy the SOS ones instead...i read somewhere that the new style required some
kind of spacer when replacing the old ones...SOS's already address this



I think this happened when trying to use NA2 LMA's on NA1 cars, before Honda released the part nr. 14820-PCB-305.




where are you getting this?



Dali?, RHDJapan?, Toda Europe?, still looking... :)

[NSXGB]

I think this happened when trying to use NA2 LMA's on NA1 cars, before Honda released the part nr. 14820-PCB-305.



Just use the 14820-PCB-305 then, cheaper than SOS and in the UK is cheaper to buy from the Honda dealer than to buy from the USA for some reason.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

I'll be doing my timing belt service next year, so i'm considering replacing the following parts:
.............................
.............................
I'm doing this to keep my NSX on top notch condition (adding some hp would be nice too ;)) so your advice would be very apreciated

Thank you,

Bruno
Hi, Bruno.
Could you provide us with the following info?


General info/spec of your NSX.
Engine size, AT/MT, modifications on engine, exhaust, intake, ECU, adjustable cam gears, etc, etc, etc.


The usage of your NSX.
Every day car, street only or street/track = 80/20%, street/track = 95/5%, etc.


The driving style of your NSX.
Always hit the rev limiter, very gentle, etc.


The driving condition of your NSX.
Hot, cold, never in the rain, near the sea, high altitude, stop-and-go-traffic,
twisty mountain road, short distance only, long distance only, high cornering G force, etc


Any significant changes/modifications from OEM spec on your NSX.
For example, super/turbo charger, different INJ, big brake, flywheel, different ACG, A/C compressor removed, etc.


Are you doing this TB service by yourself?

Kaz

[britlude]

yup, LMA's are cheaper from Honda UK than america.... one of the few times it is!

[bbvnsx]

Hi, Bruno.

Hi Kaz, thank you very much for your reply!




Could you provide us with the following info?


General info/spec of your NSX.
Engine size, AT/MT, modifications on engine, exhaust, intake, ECU, adjustable cam gears, etc, etc, etc.

1993 NA1 3.0 MT with ~25.000 miles

The car is stock except for the DF scoop + UNI filter



The usage of your NSX.
Every day car, street only or street/track = 80/20%, street/track = 95/5%, etc.


The driving style of your NSX.
Always hit the rev limiter, very gentle, etc.


The driving condition of your NSX.
Hot, cold, never in the rain, near the sea, high altitude, stop-and-go-traffic,
twisty mountain road, short distance only, long distance only, high cornering G force, etc


I do aprox. 1300 miles/year but i try to drive the car once a week for about 30/60 miles except when raining. The car is stored on a heated garage but I'm located near the sea (~1,5 miles)

Weather in Portugal is very good so the car is never driven below 0ºC temperatures and there are no salty roads where I live etc.

I drive my NSX very gentle until the engine is hot, (aprox. for 15 miles) than i'll increase gradualy RPM's and drive the car fast on twisty mountain roads or highway (i'll avoid hit rev limiter but i'll rev the car above 7000 RPM's when driving fast and going throug gears down/upshifting). I don't track my car.



Any significant changes/modifications from OEM spec on your NSX.
For example, super/turbo charger, different INJ, big brake, flywheel, different ACG, A/C compressor removed, etc.

No significant changes for now, and i don't plan S/C my NSX..., but i do plan changing my ABS and ugrading to stoptech BBK in the future (2014:laugh:) and also go with lightweight flywheel and if i find the right one maybe i'll change the exhaust too :)



Are you doing this TB service by yourself?

I'll be taking my car to the local Honda dealer where I usually do my maintenance... Wish i had a kaz here ;)

Thank you

[bbvnsx]

Maybe add the timing belt tensioner + spring and the oil cooler 'figure of 8' seal?

yes, I will change that part too ;), would it be recomended to use this one instead?:

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/tensioner/

Any recorded failures of this particular part?

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Bruno.
As NSXGB mentioned in his post #6, that list is a good starting point.


Please replace the WP at every TB service regardless of the mileage covered since your last TB service.


As you live near the sea, it’s very likely that some of the bolts around the TB covers are already corroded.

Therefore, I strongly recommend you to replace the 11 x TB cover short bolts + 2 x longer ones.
The person who will be working on your NSX for the next TB service may have big time dealing with lower three bolts behind the crank pulley and above the oil cooler if not replaced.

For the same reason, you must replace the TB tensioner special bolt. The bolt head is exposed to outside and it will be corroded by now.


Based on your driving style, no track session, no super charger in the future, brake performance including future upgrade, etc, I don’t see the point in using the aftermarket TB + oil pump gear + crank pulley.
For all of them, OEM ones are well over the required spec for your conditions.

Regarding the OEM crank pulley, its main purpose is shifting the resonance frequency at the TB under certain condition to protect the TB and not just acting as the damper for aux components such as A/C compressor, etc.
So, personally, I would stay with the OEM one.

You may want to check the condition of all four Eng/MT mounts especially if you do lots of twisty mountain road driving with hard acceleration and applying hard braking.


In US, if you drive very hard, there seems to be several occasions where the car can go through long high G corners even on the street resulting in oil starvation. I think this is the reason why the owners opt for the aftermarket baffle plate inside the oil pan.
For your conditions, I don’t think you need it.
For your reference, in Japan, we actually remove the aftermarket baffle plate from the oil pan because we found negative effect when going through the twisty roads.


For C30A engine, unless you modify the internal engine parts such as cam shaft, there is almost no power gain in using the aftermarket parts at the intake air side even with aftermarket header, exhaust, CAT test pipe combined. You may get better sound and throttle response by using them, though.

Therefore, using the aftermarket air filter, air box, air scoop, big bore throttle need careful consideration. Individual throttle butterfly is for torque curve tuning so unless you can variably change the funnel length, you will gain in one region but loose in the other side.

If using aftermarket air filter with specific filter oil, you must clean and apply the oil carefully. Otherwise, the excessive oil will stick on the TH butterfly and will cause new issues.


Spark plug is OK for 60K miles but best to check them regularly for moisture corrosion.
Don’t get confused by the light brown marking at the insulator body caused by the corona discharge.
It’s perfectly normal and you need to look for the rust that is more like dark brown.


If you are looking for long ownership of your NSX, then it’s good idea to take engine compression at least once a year.
Also, at the time of TB service or adjusting the valve clearance, you may want to ask to take compression before/after the service.


Before draining the coolant, you may want to carry out the engine block check.
From time to time, you won’t be able to detect the engine issue unless it is tested with the engine fully warmed up.
This was the case for several owners in the past.


If all of your coolant hoses were never replaced in the past, then it’s well over due for the service.
As you must drain the coolant for WP service, good idea to do it at the same time.

At the same time, best to replace the thermostat, coolant header tank cap and if your header tank is creamy or yellowish and not super white, replace it before it starts cracking.


If replacing the LMA, you must remove the VTEC spool valve so you will be forced to replace the two filters at each solenoid.
Your NSX is 93 model so they are the same ones as the original models.
Just double check and order the correct ones as the change over happened during 94 and it depends on the engine no.
Also, you will be removing all four cam shafts so you must replace the four black round cam cap discs and four brown cam seals.
Lots of NSX are showing oil seepage from the cam cap disc area.


If removing the intake manifold, be careful with the knock sensors.
If you don’t have spares, don’t touch them.
With the age, it could easily crack/break off from the base.

Having said this, from time to time, I noticed that they were already dead (breaking off from the base) and may cause unnecessary IG timing retard.
And you can't access them without removing the intake manifold so may want to replace them while in there although they are not that cheap.....


While working at the top side of the intake, check the state of IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor.
It’s not expensive so you may want to just replace it.
If re-using, replace the O-ring.
If it is very dirty, it will send out the wrong fuel timer.


You may want to replace the oil pan gasket but to do it properly, you must remove the front exh manifold down pipe.
Therefore, if you are installing the header in the near future, best to do it at the same time.


I think these are enough for the time being….

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Thank you very much for your reply Kaz!

I'll be using all the good advices you provided ;) and I'm also going through your entire blog ;) Thank you very much for sharing all this information!

Would really appreciate if you could give me your advice having in mind the following:



Based on your driving style, no track session, no super charger in the future, brake performance including future upgrade, etc, I don’t see the point in using the aftermarket TB + oil pump gear + crank pulley.
For all of them, OEM ones are well over the required spec for your conditions.

Regarding the OEM crank pulley, its main purpose is shifting the resonance frequency at the TB under certain condition to protect the TB and not just acting as the damper for aux components such as A/C compressor, etc.
So, personally, I would stay with the OEM one.

Sorry for not explaining these before, but as I only put ~1300 miles/year on my NSX I was thinking about extending my TB service to 8 to 10 years instead of the recomended 6 years, so this was one of the reasons directing me to ATI Damper (more durable) + Power Enterprise TB (more durable plus stronger than OEM to prevent damage if the improvable ressonance frequency occurs)...
Toda oil pump was just for the peace of mind and to take the oportunity as I'm doing this big maintenance, so in the improvable case of over revving my engine i wouldn't be immediately in panic of a major problem :)
Have you heard or experienced problems with this aftermarket parts?



If all of your coolant hoses were never replaced in the past, then it’s well over due for the service.
As you must drain the coolant for WP service, good idea to do it at the same time.

At the same time, best to replace the thermostat, coolant header tank cap and if your header tank is creamy or yellowish and not super white, replace it before it starts cracking..


All my visible rubber parts are like new (you can see them here #68: ,http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?10472-NSX-R-Engine-Covers/page7 ) not a visible crack or even color alteration and if i gently squeeze my hoses they really feel in great shape..., do you think i should replace the hoses regardless of this or should i take the car to the dealer and check with them...? Don't you want to move to Portugal? :D it would be so much easy...



Also, you will be removing all four cam shafts so you must replace the four black round cam cap discs and four brown cam seals.
Lots of NSX are showing oil seepage from the cam cap disc area.

Can you please confirm the following part numbers:

4 x RUBBER, HEAD COVER SEAL (12513-PR7-A00)
4 x OIL SEAL (29X43X8) (91213-PR7-A01)
8 x WASHER, SEALING (20MM) (12209-PR3-000)
4 x O-RING (6.8X1.9) (91306-PJ4-000)



You may want to replace the oil pan gasket but to do it properly, you must remove the front exh manifold down pipe.
Therefore, if you are installing the header in the near future, best to do it at the same time.

I replaced this gasket in August (when changing my oil), if i decide to change the oil pump gear can i reuse the gasket or will i have to get a new one?

Thank you very much! merry christmas

Bruno

[goldnsx]

- OEM crank pulley with ATI Super Damper

I don't see a crank pulley shield in the list above. This is a must for every NSX but only if you go with the OEM crank pulley.

I've a spare pulley shield and LMA set for spare I could sell you cheak if you're interested.

[Nytram]

Sorry for not explaining these before, but as I only put ~1300 miles/year on my NSX I was thinking about extending my TB service to 8 to 10 years instead of the recomended 6 years, so this was one of the reasons directing me to ATI Damper (more durable) + Power Enterprise TB (more durable plus stronger than OEM to prevent damage if the improvable ressonance frequency occurs)...


Excuse me butting in but I have just booked my car in with Kaz for the engine refresh stage 1 early next year, and I am under the impression that once done I don't have to worry about the TB/WP for 10 years anyway due to the level of detail involved with Kaz's excellent service.


Just a thought but if all the UK NSX's move to Portugal maybe Kaz would follow:)

Regards Martyn.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

I used to go Estoril regularly and stopped counting the number of travel I made long time ago.
Same goes for Barcelona. I think I went there easily more than 150 times.
One time, I thought I was living in Imola because I spent so many weeks there within a few months.
Good old days.....





http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1355562477.3.jpg?1356436778

http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1352204023.7.jpg?1356436778

http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1352204023.8.jpg?1356436778
Unless your NSX is track day only like above (courtesy of Mr Toyoizumi at KSP Engieering, Japan) or,


http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1350641641.5.1.jpg?1356436778
until your engine is tuned to this level (courtesy of Toda Racing, Japan), then OEM parts are fine.



It’s your NSX so the decision is up to you.



Regarding the TB service schedule......
I wrote this on this site somewhere in the past......

I don’t follow the UK service schedule because my NSX is JDM and I bought it as a new car in Japan so no warranty from Honda UK any way.

In Japan, for almost all cars, the TB service schedule is every 100K Km or 60K miles without age related conditions.
Having said this, there is a general consensus among the owners as well as the garages to carry out the TB service every 10 years or 60K miles whichever comes first.

As my NSX is everyday car, it will hit 60K miles before 10 years period and as I used to use my NSX for R&D purpose, some of the parts were on purposely replaced earlier/later than the recommended interval.
I’m also using the parts from different NSX models but even under these conditions, I never experienced any issues using the TB related OEM parts.
Even the Type-R/NSX-R that has higher acceleration/deceleration effect on the TB is using the same OEM parts as the standard models.

I’m not familiar with the TB service schedule in Portugal but I think it is the same as UK as I think it is following the European Honda service schedule.
If that is the case, then for your 93 model, it should be every 5 years (not 6 years) or 60K miles whichever comes first.

For the UK owners who took/will take my Engine Refresh service, if their NSX is registered before Jul/98, I’m advising them that they only need my Engine Refresh service every 10 years.
They can use the standard service for the next TB service in 5 years time after taking my Engine Refresh.
Personally, I don't see the point in not following the UK service interval if it is purchased as a UK car but it's up to the owners to make their own decision on whether to stay with the UK TB service interval or not considering the warranty conditions.

On street driving condition, you won’t be able to keep the rpm at the specific window where the resonance happens.
It’s such a small window and unless you are running the engine on the dyno, you won’t be able to hold the rpm steady.




If you are not sure when was the last time your coolant hoses were replaced, then I would just replace all of them.
Please remember that the radiator is also a consumable parts.
It will crack at some point.

If your hoses were replaced within the last several years, you should be able to see the year/month/date stamped on some of the hoses.


It’s the same as the TB.


If you visit the following blog http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?698-Timing-Belt-Service-Interval
and please take a look at the 1st photo.

If you can tell which TB is mine that has covered about 60K miles, then your judgement on your existing coolant hoses would be fine.
You have better knowledge than me because I can’t tell the condition of any rubber parts by just looking at it.......


If your hoses were never replaced in the past, it would be 19 years old by now and it’s just a gamble on guessing when it will burst.

Again, it’s your NSX so decision is up to you.

Sounds bit strange for someone willing to pay the extra money for the overspec TB/crank pulley/oil pump gear and yet not replacing the potentially 19 years old OEM coolant hoses.
To me, the priority should be the other way round.





Regarding the crank pulley shield........
I don’t know whether it is covered by the PL insurance like the OEM parts so it’s up to the owner to make decision with his/her own responsibility. My view as follows;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?9985-Crank-Pulley-Shields&p=92377#post92377

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?640-Eng-Refresh-Stage-1-10

This shield seems to be very popular in US.
In Japan, we have similar total number of NSX as US and as far as I know, very little number of NSX installed this shield.
Mainly because the crank pulley is replaced regularly in Japan as it is a 'must' procedure at least at the time of TB service for street driving conditions.
If your NSX is modified or used on track, the owner will be replacing it at earlier stage.

I only spent few years in US but even with this limited experience, I can say the driving condition is quite different between US and Japan so that is another big factor to consider.
As long as the crank pulley is replaced regularly, personally, I don’t feel the need for the shield but again, it’s up to the owner.



The 4 parts no. that you listed in your post are already included in my parts list that NSXGB mentioned in his post #6.
Just one thing.
You only need 4 off 12209-PR3-000 and not 8 of them.



It will take more time and cost to clean/degrease the existing oil pan gasket thoroughly before it can be reused than replacing it with a new one.
It’s not that expensive.
I prefer using the later spec one with liquid gasket on both surface.
It’s softer than the original design one so better chance of sealing the uneven surface at the oil pan if it was previously over torqued.


Kaz

[bbvnsx]

I’m not familiar with the TB service schedule in Portugal but I think it is the same as UK as I think it is following the European Honda service schedule.
If that is the case, then for your 93 model, it should be every 5 years (not 6 years) or 60K miles whichever comes first.

You are right! is 5 years, i guess i'm spending to much time on prime and got confused with TB schedule in US...:redface:




If you are not sure when was the last time your coolant hoses were replaced, then I would just replace all of them.
Please remember that the radiator is also a consumable parts.
It will crack at some point.

I'm pretty sure they were never replaced, so I added the coolant hoses to the list, thank you!



You have better knowledge than me because I can’t tell the condition of any rubber parts by just looking at it.......

Lol...! that was funny! :D


Sounds bit strange for someone willing to pay the extra money for the overspec TB/crank pulley/oil pump gear and yet not replacing the potentially 19 years old OEM coolant hoses.
To me, the priority should be the other way round.

Not at all, i have no priority... I was just asking because I'm curious guy ;). I know very little about mechanic, but unfortunately Honda parts are really pricey in Europe so I'm collecting all the information i can so i can get the needed parts from US... for example the OEM crank pulley would cost aprox. the same here at the dealer as the ATI damper from US... not trying to economize on parts, on the contrary... only trying to get the best parts at the best price.



The 4 parts no. that you listed in your post are already included in my parts list that NSXGB mentioned in his post #6.
Just one thing.
You only need 4 off 12209-PR3-000 and not 8 of them.

Thank you for the information!




It will take more time and cost to clean/degrease the existing oil pan gasket thoroughly before it can be reused than replacing it with a new one.
It’s not that expensive.
I prefer using the later spec one with liquid gasket on both surface.
It’s softer than the original design one so better chance of sealing the uneven surface at the oil pan if it was previously over torqued.

Added that part to the list too!

Thank you very much

Bruno

[bbvnsx]

I don't see a crank pulley shield in the list above. This is a must for every NSX but only if you go with the OEM crank pulley.

I've a spare pulley shield and LMA set for spare I could sell you cheak if you're interested.

I've sent you a PM

[jpspringall]

Hi all,

Mild thread hijack, but its along the same lines, as i'm looking at getting my timing belt service done too. So was looking for a list of parts that I need to order.
Would be I correct in thinking that if I gave my Honda Dealer a list of parts from http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service/page9&p=74593#post74593
Would have everything covered?

Happy New Year To You All.

James

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

..............
..............
Not at all, i have no priority... I was just asking because I'm curious guy ;). I know very little about mechanic, but unfortunately Honda parts are really pricey in Europe so I'm collecting all the information i can so i can get the needed parts from US... for example the OEM crank pulley would cost aprox. the same here at the dealer as the ATI damper from US... not trying to economize on parts, on the contrary... only trying to get the best parts at the best price.
..............
..............
Bruno
Hi, Bruno.

As you are based in Portugal, I believe your NSX is LHD model so it makes sense to get the parts from US Acura dealer.
Even after paying the delivery and duty/tax, most of the time, it’s cheaper than getting the same parts from your local Honda garage.

I noticed that you are not doing the service by yourself.

If that is the case, please check with your garage on which parts they are going to replace during their service.
The list is the basis of my Engine Refresh service and it is tailor-made for each owner depending on the condition of their NSX, driving conditions, etc so it doesn’t cover all of the parts.

On top of this, it includes so many parts that are not going to be replaced during the standard service.
In fact, some of the parts can’t be replaced without removing all four cam shafts and that is beyond the standard service.

I have never used NSX mechanical service in Europe but based on what I heard from other owners and what I saw on many engines serviced in UK, you must request some of the parts to be replaced specifically when getting the quote otherwise, it won’t be included or it won’t be done or simply just being re-used.

For example, lots of bolts and seals/gaskets/packing will be re-used instead of replacing.
The crank pulley, WP (water pump), TB tension adjuster, adjuster bolt, adjuster spring, etc, etc, etc won’t be replaced unless you request them to be done in advance.
On some engines, I noticed that the AUX belts (ACG and A/C) were re-used even there were already so many cracks on them.

Happy shopping for the parts and if you need further support, just ask here to share the info with others or if you prefer, just send me an email through this site.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi all,

Mild thread hijack, but its along the same lines, as i'm looking at getting my timing belt service done too. So was looking for a list of parts that I need to order.
Would be I correct in thinking that if I gave my Honda Dealer a list of parts from http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service/page9&p=74593#post74593
Would have everything covered?

Happy New Year To You All.

James
Hi, James.

As in my above post, the answer to your question is Yes and No.

Yes, it will cover almost all of the parts required for a standard service but far too many.

No, because it includes so many parts that won’t be used or not even possible to access during the standard service.

Best to ask your garage on what they will replace during their service.


As mentioned in above post, I have never used mechanical service in UK but from what I heard from other owners, what I saw on their service receipt and most importantly, what I saw on the actual engines being serviced in UK, I think following observation will provide you with some idea.
These parts seemed to be replaced during the standard service but it all depends on where and who will carry out the service.

1 x O-ring, figure of eight
2 x packing set, head cover
1 x TB (belt kit, timing)
2 x O-ring, radiator drain and bleeder
2 x packing, 8mm aluminium
1 x ACG belt (specify MT or AT)
1 x A/C belt
For some reason, just a few litre of coolant


You must request to have your crank pulley, water pump, TB tension adjuster, adjuster bolt, adjuster spring, seals/gaskets/packing, etc, etc, etc replaced.
If WP is replaced, you will need about 16.0 - 16.5L of Type 2 coolant.

While it is being serviced, you may want to consider the following as well.

OEM NGK Spark plug is Ok for 60k miles but depending on the conditions, quite often, you will need to replace them earlier than that.

If replacing the WP and if ordering the parts from US, it will be delivered as a set of WP, TB lower cover and a small grommet but it doesn’t include the 1 x packing, TB lower cover.
So you must order it as an additional part.
In Japan, it’s cheaper to order the WP, TB lower cover and the grommet separately + the TB lower cover packing.

If you are replacing the WP, you must drain the coolant so it’s a good time to consider replacing all coolant hoses, clamps, thermostat, header tank, tank cap, etc at the same time if they were not replaced for many years.

TB service itself doesn’t require replacing the engine oil and oil filter but depending on how the service is carried out and what future event you have in mind, best to replace both before cranking the engine.
If your oil pan has dent, best to replace it at the same time.

You may want to take compression of your engine as it is not included in the standard annual service.


It all depends on the condition of your NSX, previous service history, your driving style, driving conditions, etc.
It's a classic cars so personally, any services should be tailored to its condition, driving style and environment.

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Hi, Bruno.

As you are based in Portugal, I believe your NSX is LHD model so it makes sense to get the parts from US Acura dealer.
Even after paying the delivery and duty/tax, most of the time, it’s cheaper than getting the same parts from your local Honda garage.

....

Happy shopping for the parts and if you need further support, just ask here to share the info with others or if you prefer, just send me an email through this site.

Kaz

Thank you very much for all the help Kaz... I really appreciated...

From consulting your blog and some internet research I ended with the following list of parts (the list still includes special TB, Damper and Oil pump - i didn't came with a final decision regarding these parts but is just a question of changing to the OEM if i decide to...):

Note: this list applies for my specific LHD 93 NSX EUDM, so if anyone is thinking of using this list please be very carefull if using any of the listed part numbers. I decided to change also my RESISTOR ASSY on the radiator as i saw some rust on this particular part (these parts are listed in red color)... I tried also to separate the parts associated to the oil pump changing, using blue color...

My header tank is very white, so will not be changing it for now... but i'll test it along with the cap...

I hope i can get almost all the parts from US (except LMA's which i already ordered through my Honda dealer)...




ATI Super Damper



Power Enterprise Super Kevlar II Timing Belt



ADJUSTER, TIMING BELT (14510-PR7-A01)



SPRING, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER (14516-PR7-A00)



BOLT, SPECIAL TIMING BELT ADJUSTER (90016-P0G-A00)



RUBBER, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER (90401-634-000)



11 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X22) (95701-06022-08)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X35) (95701-06035-08)



GASKET, TIMING BELT COVER (LOWER) (11841-PR7-A00)



GASKET A, FR. TIMING BELT MIDDLE COVER (11842-PR7-A00)



GASKET B, FR. TIMING BELT MIDDLE COVER (11843-PR7-A00)



GASKET A, RR. TIMING BELT MIDDLE COVER (11844-PR7-A00)



GASKET B, RR. TIMING BELT MIDDLE COVER (11845-PR7-A00)



GASKET A, FR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11865-PR7-A00)



GASKET B, FR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11866-PR7-A00)



GASKET C, FR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11867-PR7-A00)



GASKET A, RR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11875-PR7-A00)



GASKET B, RR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11876-PR7-A00)



GASKET C, RR. TIMING BELT COVER PLATE (11877-PR7-A00)



Billet steel Oil Pump Gear: TODA RACING



WASHER, SEALING (18MM) (15234-PC6-000)



BOLT, FLANGE (8X45) (90048-PH7-000)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X18) (90051-PH7-000)



4 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X22) (90052-PH7-000)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (8X65) (90042-PR7-A00)



OIL SEAL (41X56X7) (91212-PR7-A01)



O-RING, OIL JOINT (91308-PH7-003)



2 x O-RING (17.4X3.5) (91309-PH7-000)



O-RING (22X2.4) (91312-PR7-A00)



WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (20MM)



GASKET, OIL PAN (11251-P0G-A00)



FILTER, OIL (15400-PL2-315)



GASKET, OIL PUMP (91318-PY3-000)



12 x LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) - (14820-PCB-305)



2 x FILTER ASSY., SOLENOID (36172-PR3-005)?



2 x FILTER ASSY., SPOOL VALVE (15825-PR3-005)?



O-RING (13.8X1.9) (91302-PR7-A00)



O-RING (13X1.5) (ARAI) (91319-PR3-003)



4 x RUBBER, HEAD COVER SEAL (12513-PR7-A00)



4 x OIL SEAL (29X43X8) (91213-PR7-A01)



4 x WASHER, SEALING (20MM) (12209-PR3-000)



4 x O-RING (6.8X1.9) (91306-PJ4-000)



3 x O-RING (8.8X1.9) (91302-GE0-000)



OEM Water Pump - (19200-PR7-305)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (8X25) (90049-PH7-000)



7 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X22) (90052-PH7-000)



2 x GASKET, DRAIN (TOYO) (19012-PD2-004)



2 x GASKET (8MM) (90471-580-000)



HOSE, FR. WATER (UPPER) (WHITE PAINTED) (19501-PR7-A00)



HOSE, FR. WATER (LOWER) (WHITE PAINTED) (19502-PR7-A00)



HOSE, RR. WATER (LOWER) (WHITE PAINTED) (19506-PR7-A01)



HOSE, RR. WATER (UPPER) (YELLOW PAINTED) (19507-PR7-A01)



HOSE, WATER MIDDLE (UPPER) (19518-PR7-A00)



HOSE, WATER MIDDLE (LOWER) (19519-PR7-A00)



12 x CLIP, WATER HOSE (19511-PR7-A01)



2 x CLIP, HOSE (18.7MM) (19512-PC6-003)



2 x CLAMP, TUBE (D12.5) (95002-41250-04)



CLIP, TUBE (C11) (95002-70000)



6 x CLIP, HEATER HOSE (30MM) (90661-SL0-A01)



6 x CLAMP, WATER HOSE (21.7MM) (CHUO SPRING) (19513-PE0-003)



HOSE, EXPANSION (UPPER) (19103-PR7-A00)



HOSE, EXPANSION (LOWER) (19104-PR7-A00)



TUBE, OVERFLOW (19107-PR7-A00)



HOSE, WATER INLET (WATER VALVE) (79721-SL0-A00)



HOSE, WATER INLET (HEATER) (79722-SL0-A00)



HOSE, WATER OUTLET (HEATER) (79725-SL0-A00)



HOSE A, WATER JOINT (79726-SL0-A00)



HOSE B, WATER JOINT (79727-SL0-A00)



HOSE, WATER INLET (ENGINE) (79728-SL0-A00)



HOSE, OIL COOLER IN. (19422-PR7-A01)



HOSE A, OIL COOLER OUTLET (19423-PR7-A00)



HOSE B, OIL COOLER OUTLET (19424-PR7-A00)



HOSE A, BYPASS (19522-PR7-A00)



HOSE B, BYPASS (19523-PR7-A00)



2 x HOSE C, BYPASS (19524-PR7-A00)



HOSE E, BYPASS (19526-PR7-A00)



10 x CLAMP, TUBE (D12.5) (95002-41250-04)



6 x CLAMP, WATER HOSE (21.7MM) (CHUO SPRING) (19513-PE0-003)



THERMOSTAT ASSY. (NIPPON THERMOSTAT) (19301-P8E-A10)



STAY, RESISTOR (19051-PR7-A00)



RESISTOR ASSY. (DENSO) (38613-PT2-J01)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) (95701-06012-05)



2 x BOLT, FLANGE (6X10) (95701-06010-05)



Fuel Filter - (16010-SL0-505)



Alternator belt - (31110-PR7-A01)



A/C compressor belt - (38920-PR7-A04)



6 x spark plug - NGK PFR6G-11 (98079-5614H)



2 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER (12030-PR7-010)



GASKET C, FR. HEAD COVER (12351-PR7-A00)



GASKET C, RR. HEAD COVER (12352-PR7-A00)



GASKET, FR. IGNITION COIL COVER (12511-PR7-A00)



GASKET, RR. IGNITION COIL COVER (12521-PR7-A00)





I hope i didn't miss any important part... these list does not includes parts to change intake phenolic gaskets and to install the KSP headers (still looking for a trustworthy company that can provide those headers to Europe at a resonable price...)

Thanks again,

Bruno

[bbvnsx]

... these list does not includes parts to... install the KSP headers (still looking for a trustworthy company that can provide those headers to Europe at a resonable price...)


Sorry for the off-topic, but i would like to share this information... as i stated before i was looking for KSP headers for some time now... and looking to find a trustworthy company that could send them from Japan to Europe (in my case portugal...)

I got those headers with RHDJapan! I'm really happy! This was a fast a and pleasant transaction! It took only one week from putting the order, to get them to my door, RHDJapan shipped the headers 3 days after i placed the order, and it took 4 days to DHL deliver them to my door!
It was my first time dealing with RHDJapan, and I was really pleased!

I even got those headers with a good discount over the list price! you can find them here:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/attain-ksp-stainless-exhaust-manifold-header-nsx-na1-c30a-69877

Headers came with O2 extension, all the gaskets and small bracket for the O2 Extension... You can find great info about KSP headers at Kaz "NSX Technical and Service Information thread"... that's a great read and one of the main reasons i opted for KSP! Thank you Kaz!


As side note i would like to say that this is just my opinion, and that ofcourse i don't have any commercial relation with KSP or RHDJapan. This was only my personal expirience!

Total wieght of headers is 11,36 Kg/ 25 lbs (R:6,23 kg F:5,13 kg), which means I'll be saving ~3,2 kg/ 7 lbs over the stock cast iron manifolds. ;)

Now for the fotos (they really look like art IMO...):

11650116511165211653

[bbvnsx]

11654116551165611657

[PeterW]

I got those headers with RHDJapan! I'm really happy! This was a fast a and pleasant transaction! ...

That's good to know. The recently (re-)elected Mr Shinzo Abe wants a weaker Yen and so far he seems to be having some success. Middle of last year the rate was 120/£ and right now it's 145/£, so if there's a reliable supplier who can do business in English that could be useful. Of course Honda UK/Europe will also be passing on the exchange rate saving ... was that a pig I just saw fly past ...?
:rolleyes:
Peter

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Congratulations on obtaining one of the most expensive but thought after header on the market.
When I researched the header for years, I paid special attention to the rear header because that will tell the amount of R&D involved and the design philosophy.

It requires special jig and technique to bend the single mono tube for the rear header.

It‘s much easier to weld multiple short tubes for the rear header than bending the mono tube.

Also, the header design and the way the O2 sensor is installed are very important when considering the future services.

Some of the header will hit the rear beam when you tilt the engine during the TB service or Gbox service such as CL installation.

The power/torque curves depend on your intake treatment, ITB, back pressure, etc and even with the same output, you can shift the curve against X-axis (rpm) so you will need lots of time for modifications to suit your taste.

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Congratulations on obtaining one of the most expensive but thought after header on the market...
....
....
The power/torque curves depend on your intake treatment, ITB, back pressure, etc and even with the same output, you can shift the curve against X-axis (rpm) so you will need lots of time for modifications to suit your taste.


Thanks Kaz! I'm on my way, continuing with my research ... reading your blog and learning from other members of this unique community!

Can you please help me with the following:

Going through your blog, along with the parts that came with headers, i was considering that to install the headers I will need the following parts:

14 x NUT, SPECIAL (8MM) (90217-657-000)
6 x BOLT, CONVERTER (18176-P08-003)
6 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) (90212-SA5-003)
Heat Shield for A/C compressor and i was thinking about the oil pan too
Heat Insulation Tape for the tube near A/C compressor

I was thinking about reusing my O2 sensors... do i have to change them? my NSX is only 25.000 miles...

Do i need to use the following part: GASKET, PRE CHAMBER (52.5MM-53.5MM) (18393-SH3-S00) or the gaskets that came with headers will do the work?

Thanks
Bruno

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Although you can re-use your existing NA1 exh manifold gasket if it is not damaged, please replace it with the one included in the kit.
It’s the one designed for NA2 model. 18115-PBY-J02 x 2
The port opening of the NA2 gasket is slightly wider than the NA1 type.

90217-657-000 x 14
NA2 spec nut, Eng - header
Yes, please.


Stud bolt (18176-) and the nut (90212-) at the CAT.
If your stud bolt inserted to the CAT flange is corroded, it is a good idea to replace it at the time of header installation.
The stud bolt is heat hardened so you may struggle to remove it if you need to cut and drill it out.

If replacing it, there is no need to use the OEM stud bolts and nuts.
In fact, you may want to use the flanged ones you can find at your local DIY stores.

If using the stainless one, please never ever use the same stainless material on both the bolt and the nut.

You must use different material between the two.
For example, if you are using stainless nut, please make sure to use ordinary ferrous bolt.

Otherwise, you are going to have really big time next time when you try to undo the bolt and nut.
With the heat and vibration, 100% guaranteed to seize and cutting through stainless is not fun with limited space.


Heat shield and insulation
Seems to be quite popular to use ceramic or other type of coating on the header in US.
I used it partially on turbo charged race engine but not on the street cars.
The heat energy has to be released somewhere and I don’t have enough data on the effect on SUS304 header if it was entirely coated.
Thus, I just use small heat shield and short tape in order to protect the A/C compressor.


O2 sensor
I replaced both of them because I covered enough mileage on them.
You can re-use your existing ones if they are working fine though on OBD-1 cars, you will need to connect oscilloscope to confirm the operation. Alternatively, if you kept recording your fuel mileage from new, you can detect something wrong with fuelling which could be related to the O2 sensor even if there is no CEL warning.

Bosch recommends replacing the O2 sensor every 60K miles on OBD-1 cars.
Unlike other models, replacing O2 sensors on KSP header is fairly easy even at the rear bank so if you are happy with your existing sensors, why not just re-use them and replace them once they covered nearly 60K miles or whenever they failed.


Gasket (18393-)
Please use the triangle one included in the kit after removing the existing crushable metal ring between the CAT and the original dreadful cast iron manifold.

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Some more information to share:

After some research (Japan, US and EU) I ended buying BOLTS (18176-P08-003) and NUTS (90212-SA5-003) from Lings Honda. They are at the unbelivable price of £0,01/unit!!!, first i thought there was an error, so i emailed Lings, and after some emails and price confirmation, i ordered 12 bolts and 12 nuts (I will need only 6 of each, but i decided to order 12 as I'll need the other 6 if i decide to replace my OEM exhaust )

Final costs:

parts: £ 0,24 :D

Shipping to Portugal: £ 20,00

VAT: £ 4,00

Total: £ 24,24

I posted it here only after parts arrived because i couldn't belive the price until i got the parts at my door... see attached pic!
11658

I decided to share, because it's a good oportunity if any of you is thinking about new headers or exhaust in the future (shipping to UK should be ~ £ 4,00) , from my local dealer those parts would cost ~ £110,00 and from US $113,00 + shipping + taxes!

I don't know for how long Lings will keep this price on those specific parts...

[nobby]

Great find mate!

thanks for posting ... Handy for anyone changing their exhaust

[simonprelude]

Anyone going over there, lucrative business opportunity. Bring back a suitcase of nuts and bolts.

[NSXGB]

Anyone going over there, lucrative business opportunity. Bring back a suitcase of nuts and bolts.

Going over to Norfolk? :)


I believe there are a lot of parts that are silly cheap like this - 'Honda Happiness scheme' or something like that. Senninha I believe posted about this before?

[Sudesh]

Great find mate!

thanks for posting ... Handy for anyone changing their exhaust

They have been that price for a while, I also have a load of them if you need any.

[nobby]

tell me now when i have bought LOL


They have been that price for a while, I also have a load of them if you need any.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

As NSXGB mentioned above, it was already discussed on this site many years ago.

For early model NSX (3 stud bolt at CAT flange), the price was like that for ages.
I think it was like that even before I joined NSXCB.


If you are taking the stud bolt out of the CAT flange, personally, I won’t go back to the OEM one.
Sooner or later, it will corrode and because it is heat treated, it is hard to break or drill it out.

I would rather use stainless nut with ordinary ferrous bolt so that if I need to separate the CAT from the header in the future, I can easily break the bolt rather than trying to tackle the corroded bolt/nut head and thread.
Saves the precious time.

Kaz

[simonprelude]

When I saw the Import duty note I thought they must have been in the US, now I see they were imported to Portugal.
Didn't realise there was additonal duty to pay in the EU as VAT should have been paid.

I've just posted an item to Lisbon, wonder if there'll be duty on that?


Going over to Norfolk? :)


I believe there are a lot of parts that are silly cheap like this - 'Honda Happiness scheme' or something like that. Senninha I believe posted about this before?

[bbvnsx]

When I saw the Import duty note I thought they must have been in the US, now I see they were imported to Portugal.
Didn't realise there was additonal duty to pay in the EU as VAT should have been paid.

I've just posted an item to Lisbon, wonder if there'll be duty on that?

No duty to pay... I only had to pay shipping (£ 20,00) + UK VAT (£ 4,00).

I would have to pay duty only if buying the parts from outside EU.

[bbvnsx]

Hi UK friends!


After asking for your help for my timing belt service, and after colecting all the parts i needed, my NSX big maintenance is now done and the car is on the road again! I'm so happy with final results!


First i would like to thank you all for the provided help and recomendations, turning my NSX ownership an even better expirience!


I would also like to say special thanks to Kaz who helped me so much here and by e-mail... The information on kaz's blog is a great source of knowledge on the NSX and was a big inspiration when preparing my maintenance... so thanks! 1000 times thanks!


Althought i'm not from UK, i'm a member from uk nsxcb for long time now, so i would like to post my build here, but unfortunatly i'm experiencing problems when attaching files... so i decided to share with you my build on Prime, I'll be updating it for the next few days! i hope you enjoy:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/170650-BBVNSX-93-EDM-NSX-From-Portugal!



THANKS!

[simonprelude]

http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1352204023.7.jpg?1356436778

http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1352204023.8.jpg?1356436778

http://ksp-eng.co.jp/tyiz/nsx/bbs/bbs/data/1350641641.5.1.jpg?1356436778

If I were buying another NSX this is exactly what I'd be doing :)
At the moment I'm only looking at factory produced horse power.