How to wash an NSX?

[m666 edd]

Please educate me on washing cars. This has never been something that I enjoy doing and I don't ever have any decent products.

I am under the assumption that this is roughly the procedure:



Soak the car
Wash with soapy water using a microfibre sponge / cloth
Rinse / dry
Use clay bar to remove other contaminates
Wax / polish


Also please point me in the direction of products I need. I only really have microfibre sponges / cloths, car wash/soap and some old wax.

Cheers!

[214nsx]

This follows on from my “cleaning the car” thread a year ago: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=70936
It has been nearly a month since the car had a good spit and polish as I was in the Maldives for a few weeks and the weather has been terrible since I returned.
Equipment:
1* Meguiar's 1908ml NXT car wash
1* Meguiar's 532 ml NXT Tech Wax
1* Meguiar's ultra plush Gold Wash mitt
1* Meguiar's 710 ml NXT Glass cleaner
1* Meguiar's 710ml NXT Speed Detailer
2* Meguiar's Gold applicator pads
1* Meguiar's purple/green applicator pad
1* Meguiar's 207ml Scratch X
1* Meguiar's 800grams of polishing cloth
3* Meguiar's terry cloths
2* Meguiar's microfibre cloths
1* Meguiar's (2* Bars) Clay detailing system (Clay Bar)
1* Meguiar's 473ml Deep Crystal 1 Paint Cleaner (or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 2 Polish care (or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 3 Carnauba Wax (or NXT Tech wax or NXT Spray wax or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 142g NXT All Metal Polish
1)THE WASH
if you have buckets (hosepipe ban?) go to 1a, if you are using a jetwash, head to 1b
1a) BUCKET METHOD:
Firstly, get 2 buckets.
Fill one with cold water and wet the car (repeat as required) this will always be your clean bucket which you will then fill will your shampoo solution. Once the car is wet enough, continue.

Add your shampoo to one bucket and then fill them both with warm (not hot) water. We'll call one the shampoo bucket and one the dirty bucket...
While your shampoo bucket is filling up, use your hand to create as much foam as possible. Ideally you would use a foamer on your jetwash or hose (for those not in a hosepipe ban area).

Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.
The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.
1b) JETWASH METHOD:
Sorry...if you were hoping to escape using buckets then I am afraid you were mistaken. Whilst a jetwash is good for removing loose surface matter, you can’t really clean a car with one.
Firstly, add the shampoo to your bucket. Starting with low pressure and building up (to prevent a spray of shampoo in the face) fire your jetwash into the bucket. This will create a good almost 100% foam lather.
Do the same with another bucket WITHOUT the shampoo.
Wet the car thoroughly with the jetwash and use the lance to remove any bird crap/large loose objects on the paintwork. We will then continue as if we had no jetwash (although you can smile when it comes to rinsing J
Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.
The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.
1c) RINSE AND REPEAT:
Sadly, I am not the best at washing the car, if I stopped now then tomorrow morning I would notice big patches I missed. I am aware of this and so...... I do it again! Exactly the same as above.
2)Dealing with paint defects/bird crap/swirl marks
2a) Scratch removal
To remove the etching and scratches, apply a blob of ScratchX onto a clean applicator. You want to work in small circles over the area of the damage, using a firm amount of pressure. The abrasives in ScratchX break down to a fine powder very quickly, so you will have to repeat the ScratchX stage 4 or 5 times if not more. This product promises NEVER to add more scratches when it removes and in my experience that is correct so get your elbow going and really give it some hassle.
2b)Look ma, I got clay
You can argue this if you like; I tend to clay before I clean. My argument is that I remove the surface contaminants and then clean the paint beneath them. Others say to do it the other way around, (if you are removing birdlime or scratches then please use the paint cleaner FIRST) find what works for you. Paint attracts pollution, tree sap and other contaminants which can adhere to the paint work and 'soak'. Clay coupled with a lubricant (speed detail spray) (don’t bother with the details spray. It’s expensive and as it is only a lubricant then I use my shampoo bucket. It works wonders and is cheap as chips.....)removes these imperfections and smoothes your paint for a mirror finish and that wet look you see in shows.
Mould the clay to form a flat surface, using detail spray (see above) to lubricate, wipe the clay over the panel, you should feel the difference using the back of your hand. If it still feels uneven then keep going. Make sure you keep the clay lubricated. Wipe dry with a terry/microfibre cloth. Do not allow the clay or solution to dry naturally on the car.
2c) Clean the paint
To continue to remove any paint contaminants apply a blob of the Deep Crystal 1 paint cleaner to an applicator pad and firmly work it into your paint where damage has occurred. Deep Crystal 1 is a chemical paint cleaner, and the chemicals in it will gently and safely remove any further contaminant. I will also lessen the extent of any scratches. After two or three applications of the Deep Crystal 1 to the damage, remove any excess while it is still wet using a microfibre or terry towel.
(Also see the claying section)
3)Polish
Apply a small amount onto one of the applicator pads and work into the paint using small circular motions. You should find that this (and the waxing) is where your preparation pays off ten-fold. This will be so easy to apply AND remove that it is as simple as washing the car.
Wipe dry with a terry cloth or microfibre. This (coupled with the clay) will create that “wet look” on flat colour cars. Mine is silver which is easy to get looking OK but much harder to get looking amazing (more on this later).
4)Wax
Wax:
Wax the car using an applicator pad to apply and a terry cloth to remove (no need for microfibre yet).
Before removing the wax though read the next bit:

Trim:
Apply your trim detailing products while wax is still on the panel surrounded by the trim. The reason for this is that you have just washed, cleaned and now waxed the car, do you want overspray, drips etc on your paint? No, so do it now and that way, if you do overrun then it comes off with the wax. I tend to do my windows at this point as well. It’s a personal choice though.

End Wax:
Now remove the wax using a terry cloth.

2-3 coats of wax are a good base, if you have never waxed your car then you should add a layer of wax every 12-24 hours to form a good base. This will also help to smooth any imperfections and make waxing a 30min job instead of a 3 hour job.


5)Shoes (wheels and tyres)
Wheels and tyres:
As you would any other wheel cleaner, spray on the hot rims product (safe for chrome and polished rims), work it in (I use a sponge and not my mitt) and then hose off. If you are in the hosepipe ban areas then use your dirty bucket but rinse it first or use a third bucket if you have one. DO NOT contaminate your clean/shampoo bucket. You should not use the shampoo bucket for any other purpose.


I have the standard facelift alloys and they do get pock-marked and dirty pretty regularly so every now and again I use the Meguiars all metal polish on them. Its anti-corrosive agents protect against degradation of the metalwork (those with blinged engines take note J )

Using the Meguiars tyre spray, simply spray it on and leave it. Job Done.
It lasts for weeks as well, not days.
-------------------------------END



Hope this help.

Phill

[Problem Child]

This follows on from my “cleaning the car” thread a year ago: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=70936
It has been nearly a month since the car had a good spit and polish as I was in the Maldives for a few weeks and the weather has been terrible since I returned.
Equipment:
1* Meguiar's 1908ml NXT car wash
1* Meguiar's 532 ml NXT Tech Wax
1* Meguiar's ultra plush Gold Wash mitt
1* Meguiar's 710 ml NXT Glass cleaner
1* Meguiar's 710ml NXT Speed Detailer
2* Meguiar's Gold applicator pads
1* Meguiar's purple/green applicator pad
1* Meguiar's 207ml Scratch X
1* Meguiar's 800grams of polishing cloth
3* Meguiar's terry cloths
2* Meguiar's microfibre cloths
1* Meguiar's (2* Bars) Clay detailing system (Clay Bar)
1* Meguiar's 473ml Deep Crystal 1 Paint Cleaner (or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 2 Polish care (or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 3 Carnauba Wax (or NXT Tech wax or NXT Spray wax or equiv)
1* Meguiar’s 142g NXT All Metal Polish
1)THE WASH
if you have buckets (hosepipe ban?) go to 1a, if you are using a jetwash, head to 1b
1a) BUCKET METHOD:
Firstly, get 2 buckets.
Fill one with cold water and wet the car (repeat as required) this will always be your clean bucket which you will then fill will your shampoo solution. Once the car is wet enough, continue.

Add your shampoo to one bucket and then fill them both with warm (not hot) water. We'll call one the shampoo bucket and one the dirty bucket...
While your shampoo bucket is filling up, use your hand to create as much foam as possible. Ideally you would use a foamer on your jetwash or hose (for those not in a hosepipe ban area).

Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.
The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.
1b) JETWASH METHOD:
Sorry...if you were hoping to escape using buckets then I am afraid you were mistaken. Whilst a jetwash is good for removing loose surface matter, you can’t really clean a car with one.
Firstly, add the shampoo to your bucket. Starting with low pressure and building up (to prevent a spray of shampoo in the face) fire your jetwash into the bucket. This will create a good almost 100% foam lather.
Do the same with another bucket WITHOUT the shampoo.
Wet the car thoroughly with the jetwash and use the lance to remove any bird crap/large loose objects on the paintwork. We will then continue as if we had no jetwash (although you can smile when it comes to rinsing J
Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.
The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.
1c) RINSE AND REPEAT:
Sadly, I am not the best at washing the car, if I stopped now then tomorrow morning I would notice big patches I missed. I am aware of this and so...... I do it again! Exactly the same as above.
2)Dealing with paint defects/bird crap/swirl marks
2a) Scratch removal
To remove the etching and scratches, apply a blob of ScratchX onto a clean applicator. You want to work in small circles over the area of the damage, using a firm amount of pressure. The abrasives in ScratchX break down to a fine powder very quickly, so you will have to repeat the ScratchX stage 4 or 5 times if not more. This product promises NEVER to add more scratches when it removes and in my experience that is correct so get your elbow going and really give it some hassle.
2b)Look ma, I got clay
You can argue this if you like; I tend to clay before I clean. My argument is that I remove the surface contaminants and then clean the paint beneath them. Others say to do it the other way around, (if you are removing birdlime or scratches then please use the paint cleaner FIRST) find what works for you. Paint attracts pollution, tree sap and other contaminants which can adhere to the paint work and 'soak'. Clay coupled with a lubricant (speed detail spray) (don’t bother with the details spray. It’s expensive and as it is only a lubricant then I use my shampoo bucket. It works wonders and is cheap as chips.....)removes these imperfections and smoothes your paint for a mirror finish and that wet look you see in shows.
Mould the clay to form a flat surface, using detail spray (see above) to lubricate, wipe the clay over the panel, you should feel the difference using the back of your hand. If it still feels uneven then keep going. Make sure you keep the clay lubricated. Wipe dry with a terry/microfibre cloth. Do not allow the clay or solution to dry naturally on the car.
2c) Clean the paint
To continue to remove any paint contaminants apply a blob of the Deep Crystal 1 paint cleaner to an applicator pad and firmly work it into your paint where damage has occurred. Deep Crystal 1 is a chemical paint cleaner, and the chemicals in it will gently and safely remove any further contaminant. I will also lessen the extent of any scratches. After two or three applications of the Deep Crystal 1 to the damage, remove any excess while it is still wet using a microfibre or terry towel.
(Also see the claying section)
3)Polish
Apply a small amount onto one of the applicator pads and work into the paint using small circular motions. You should find that this (and the waxing) is where your preparation pays off ten-fold. This will be so easy to apply AND remove that it is as simple as washing the car.
Wipe dry with a terry cloth or microfibre. This (coupled with the clay) will create that “wet look” on flat colour cars. Mine is silver which is easy to get looking OK but much harder to get looking amazing (more on this later).
4)Wax
Wax:
Wax the car using an applicator pad to apply and a terry cloth to remove (no need for microfibre yet).
Before removing the wax though read the next bit:

Trim:
Apply your trim detailing products while wax is still on the panel surrounded by the trim. The reason for this is that you have just washed, cleaned and now waxed the car, do you want overspray, drips etc on your paint? No, so do it now and that way, if you do overrun then it comes off with the wax. I tend to do my windows at this point as well. It’s a personal choice though.

End Wax:
Now remove the wax using a terry cloth.

2-3 coats of wax are a good base, if you have never waxed your car then you should add a layer of wax every 12-24 hours to form a good base. This will also help to smooth any imperfections and make waxing a 30min job instead of a 3 hour job.


5)Shoes (wheels and tyres)
Wheels and tyres:
As you would any other wheel cleaner, spray on the hot rims product (safe for chrome and polished rims), work it in (I use a sponge and not my mitt) and then hose off. If you are in the hosepipe ban areas then use your dirty bucket but rinse it first or use a third bucket if you have one. DO NOT contaminate your clean/shampoo bucket. You should not use the shampoo bucket for any other purpose.


I have the standard facelift alloys and they do get pock-marked and dirty pretty regularly so every now and again I use the Meguiars all metal polish on them. Its anti-corrosive agents protect against degradation of the metalwork (those with blinged engines take note J )

Using the Meguiars tyre spray, simply spray it on and leave it. Job Done.
It lasts for weeks as well, not days.
-------------------------------END



Hope this help.

PhillI prefer this....
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSticB7gHZzz5NcWRDK5qE1bRs0lV-rdvBpPsH6vKrlWVM26mdz

[scottg]

I prefer this....
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSticB7gHZzz5NcWRDK5qE1bRs0lV-rdvBpPsH6vKrlWVM26mdz

at least she doesn't have a zip anywhere to damage the paint.

[Dragonlady]

At least she isn't wearing heels, but OMG she is using a sponge.

Not being fussy or anything but I prefer ........................................


11763

ROFL.

Sharon

[Pride]

First rule of washing an NSX is NEVER use a stud to wash it as they tend to badly scratch it. lol lol;)

[nigel]

Geoff, May I use your car cleaning tool for a bit when you're finished???

Cheers
nigel

[mjames75]

Hope she shaved her legs!

[TheSebringOne]

That blonde must have very grippy knees or the cleaning product is anti slip proof!

[Problem Child]

Hope she shaved her legs!I checked this morning before I got out of bed....yes she does!

[scottg]

I checked this morning before I got out of bed....yes she does!

You make a lovely couple Geoff.

[NSX 2000]

At least she isn't wearing heels, but OMG she is using a sponge.

Not being fussy or anything but I prefer ........................................


11763

ROFL.

Sharon

Sharon, you always have to bring the tone down ;)

[gumball]

Got to tesco, hand fiver to fella with bucket.

[b1gbrad]

I've just been looking at prices of the Meguiar's products, and it appears a lot of them are on 3 for 2 at Halfords at the moment - I'm off to stock up while they're reasonably cheap.

[Dragonlady]

Sharon, you always have to bring the tone down ;)


And there was me thinking that I was bringing some balance to the forum :rolleyes:

[Dragonlady]

Got to tesco, hand fiver to fella with bucket.

Nooooooooo!!!!

I would even let the dumb blonde wash my car, over the bloke at tesco's with the bucket.

Sharon

[Problem Child]

You make a lovely couple Geoff.I wont be bringing her on the pancake run!

[scottg]

I wont be bringing her on the pancake run!

japfest then ?

[Problem Child]

japfest then ?Nah...she says she's too shy

[scottg]

Nah...she says she's too shy

Thats a shame I'd love to see her in action with her two bucket method and then a good wet look buff to finish up.

[Senninha]

Ed,

its quite straight forward ... You call James and ask him to get into valeting mode ... Travel to James ... Enjoy an afternoon of NSX and general car chit chat ... Cross his palm with an agreed amount ... Return home in shines black NSX

good luck, Paul

[328]

I always like to start with a rinse and then snow foaming :) which helps lift all the initial grime first and looks cool as it looks like your freezing a car..... :) (not my car BTW) http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSs-n4tY9Rzmvkzs5LXsJIoQ25twa1hfeIyKMdMm0KKpWWv6qFz

[Problem Child]

I always like to start with a rinse and then snow foaming :) which helps lift all the initial grime first and looks cool as it looks like your freezing a car..... :) (not my car BTW) http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSs-n4tY9Rzmvkzs5LXsJIoQ25twa1hfeIyKMdMm0KKpWWv6qFzI like it...where do I get snow foam?

[328]

I like it...where do I get snow foam?

Hi Geoff,

you add a snow lance to a pressure washer, and it foams the car :)


best place I bought my stuff from is:

http://www.monzacarcare.com/snow-foam--lances/


i bought the professional one.



the foam is valet pro - ph neutral about £16 but lasts you ages....depending how often you wash :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valetpro-PH-Neutral-Snow-Foam-5-litres-Detailing-/110989929917?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleani ng&hash=item19d783edbd



i would also recommend that if you use a pressure washer make sure you use a vario lance, so not too much pressure hitting the car and also with my older nsx, doesn't get condensation stuck in the rear lights!

cheers,

andy