Cambelt due so engine out time - what oil seals, and what other key jobs?

[havoc]

Cam belt and water pump due in September. Valve clearances are also going to be done, as are LMAs. So it makes sense I think to drop the engine out (whoever does it).

The other thing that does need to be done is the rocker cover oil seals - both banks have started leaking oil slightly, so this service is a good time to get them done. But I was thinking that if they're tired then the others are probably heading that way. Would rather not change them all if I can avoid it, wanted some advice as to which seals were the important ones and which didn't pose much risk...anyone comment there?

Also wondering if there's anything else I should get done while the engine's out. Crank pulley has been done recently, as has clutch, and Kaz did the driveshafts 2 years ago. What am I forgetting about?
(I need to check age of the plugs - that's another obvious one...)


Am considering Kaz' "full fat" engine refresh, but I don't think he'll have a slot in time and I probably won't have the cash for that level of detail. So I'm thinking on alternative options, esp. given some recent posts...

Thanks,

Martin.

[NSXGB]

Nice set of shiny headers if you have not got some already...!

Ive got a load of new seals and parts that would come in handy for a cam belt service :(

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Not sure which seals you were referring to because almost all of them must be replaced any way.

2 x valve cover one, 6 x plug hole, 12 x nut metal/rubber washer.
These come as a set for each bank if you use the correct parts no. and must be replaced unless they are just a few months old.

If you are replacing the LMA, then you are forced to remove the VTEC spool valve and thus, you must replace the two filter/gasket on each spool valves.
Again, this is the area famous for oil seepage on any VTEC engines.

4 x cam cap/disc whatever it is called. The black round disc at the end of the camshaft at the TH body side.
Famous for oil seepage and again, no point in re-using them. After exposed to the heat and oil for many years, you don’t want to re-use them.

To access the LMA, you will be taking all four camshafts out so clean the old liquid gasket thoroughly under #1 and #4 cam holders.
Removing the cam shafts means you are forced to replace the tiny O-ring below the #1 cam holder and also the 4 x round brown oil seal on the cam shaft at the TB side.

All of the O-rings must be replaced if the parts were removed/disassembled.

The expensive gasket at the TB lower cover should be replaced because by now, it already lost its original sponginess and very likely to be covered in oil if you saw oil seepage from the valve covers especially from the front bank.

The short/small gasket at the TB Front and Rear Mid covers should be replaced because by now, they lost their sponginess and very likely to be covered in oil.

The gasket behind the IG coil cover should be replaced especially at the rear bank.

The only thing that can be re-used is the two thin square shape rubber gasket just above the TB and held inside the recess of the valve covers.
But, they are very cheap and quite often damaged by not installing the cover properly so just replace them.

You can re-use the six tiny gaskets behind the TB back cover but if you remove the camshafts, you must replace the brown oil seal and in order to push them into the right position, you will need to remove the back cover any way so just replace all of them.

If taking the engine out, you will be forced to disconnect the three coolant hoses under the header tank. Do not reuse them unless you know exactly when they were replaced last time and also how they were installed.
Inevitably, you are very likely to twist them on removal and this could cause coolant seepage from the woven fibre layer if they were already used for many months/years before the twisting force were applied.
In fact, if you haven’t refreshed your cooling system for more than 10 years, now is the time to do so.
Just replace header tank, cap, thermostat, all hoses, cramps as you will be draining the coolant any way.
Especially, replacing the two hoses at the oil cooler is so much easier while the engine is out.

If your fuel filter is nearly 3 years old, just replace it while the engine is out.

Clean the engine bay while the engine is out.

It’s much easier to replace O2 sensor while the engine is out so replace them if they covered nearly 60K miles on two O2 sensor models.

Depending on how you take the engine out, you may want to consider replacing the exh back box if you are thinking of going aftermarket.

Kaz

[havoc]

I think I should be saying "thank you Kaz"...but my wallet is not so sure! ;)

Good advice though...


Simon - what have you got...PM me, might be able to make a little space in your garage!

[Alf Tupper]

I've found that Kaz has saved me money.......

A few months and about 200 miles after Kaz's engine refresh and healthcheck, I had a Honda main dealer (NSX specialist) advise me that my car needed £700 of work urgently. We're not talking about any sudden failures or anything that could manifest itself in a short time or distance. I was adamant that Kaz would have picked up any such issues and didn't get the work done. Two MOTs later and no still problems.....

Lately, CEL and TCS lights have come on. As stated by Kaz, often these are due to faulty o2 sensors, so I bought a couple from the US, the NTK ones that Kaz and others have recommended. Declined Honda's kind offer of £212 for a sensor as I had one ready to fit. For info, my car has two o2 sensors, the front one I believe is original and the rear one has previously been replaced at 40k miles and again now at 53k miles. So to avoid being stung by HUK prices, always a good idea to have some spare sensors.



So by going to Kaz and with his knowledge on this forum, I have saved myself nearly £900 which offsets a huge chunk of the original cost of the refresh.

[havoc]

Right, am now getting around to sorting the service out. Lots of different advice, from the meticulous (Kaz) to the "It's not broke, just change the main parts" end of the spectrum.

So...here's my current plan, plus the 'undecided' list underneath. To those who've not taken advantage of Kaz's Engine Refresh, how far down this list did you go?

Cheers,

Martin.

Definite changes:-


1
15400-PL2-505 Oil filter


1
+ Drain plug crush washer


1
16010-SL0-505 Fuel Filter assy


1
17220-PR7-505 Air cleaner element


2
12030-PR7-010 Packing set, Head cover


1
14400-PR7-A01 Belt kit, timing


1
14510-PR7-A01 Adjuster Comp., timing belt


1
31110-PR7-A04 Belt , ACG - MT


1
38920-PR7-A04 Belt, A/C compressor


1
19200-PR7-305 Water Pump Assy


4
91213-PR7-A01 Oil seal, 29X43X8


4
12513-PR7-A00 Rubber Comp., head cover seal


2

15825-P08-005 Filter Assy, Spool Valve


12

14820-PCB-305 LMA








Possibles - comments?





1
91318-PY3-000 O-ring, Oil filter base


1
90401-634-000 Rubber, timing belt adjuster


2
90049-PH7-000 Bolt, flange 8X25


7
90052-PH7-000 Bolt, flange 6X22


1
90016-P0G-A00 Bolt special, timing belt adjuster


1
14516-PR7-A00 Spring Comp., timing belt


2
19012-PD2-004 O-ring (Showa Aluminium)


2
90471-580-000 Packing, 8mm


3
91302-GE0-000 O-ring, 8.8X1.9


1
11251-P0G-A00 Packing, oil pan


???
91212-PR7-A01 Crank seal


1
11841-PR7-A00 Packing, timing belt lower cover


1
11842-PR7-A00 Packing A, Front TB mid cover


1
11843-PR7-A00 Packing B, Front TB mid cover


1
11844-PR7-A00 Packing A, Rear TB mid cover


1
11845-PR7-A00 Packing B, Rear TB mid cover


1
12351-PR7-A00 Packing C, Front head cover


1
12352-PR7-A00 Packing C, Rear head cover