Help please :(

[328]

Hi guys,

i took my steering wheel and hub off today (NRG quick release off) to see if I could get the horn to work. After messing around with the wires etc....I went to turn the engine and the car won't start now :(. I have noticed that the srs fuse under the passenger footwell keeps blowing every time I start the engine. There also seems no fuel going into the engine :(......

any help would be great.....I am unsure when I took the hub off if I accidentally crushed one of the wires inside the steering bit (the flat cables that have the yellow plugs).

anyone got any ideas to what it could be?

cheers,

andy

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Andy.

Not sure exactly which SRS fuse you are keep blowing.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-buJTXWneTlk/TsLsrouF3wI/AAAAAAAAAJg/T_NRqhfXbFA/s640/IMG_0003.JPG
If it is the No.1 10A fuse with the yellow protective cover, then it is very unlikely to prevent you from starting the engine.
You can run the engine even without this fuse but you will see SRS warning light on the dash.
You may have other reason(s) for not being able to start the engine such as the security system, AT inhibitor feature, etc.

Are you able to crank the engine with the starter?


If it is the No.2 15A fuse (SRS uses this fuse as well, strictly speaking, there is another one), then you won’t be able to start the engine.
It is not only for the SRS but also shared with the fuel pump so basically, no fuel into the engine.

Please be careful when checking the fuse panel.
Due to the limited space and eye position, it is so easy to make mistake when removing/installing the fuse at No.1 and No.2 positions.
No.3 position is not in use but you can still insert the fuse so you could end up with fuses at the wrong slot although if you miss the No.1, you will see SRS warning light on the dash.

If you are blowing the No.2 fuse, then this power line doesn’t go though the cable reel at the steering wheel.
If you think you damaged the cable reel and causing this fuse to blow, then it is possible that you created short circuit indirectly within the SRS controller through the cable reel.

If this was the case, you could disconnect the yellow flat 6pin connector under the steering column and turn the IG key into P2 (lots of light on the dash, one position before cranking).
If the No.2 fuse didn’t blow at that point, then you should be able to start the engine unless you have other issues.
Please note that disconnecting this yellow 6pin connector may trigger the SRS warning light depending on how you wired the rest of the SRS circuit.

It could be nothing to do with the SRS fuse or could be very simple thing.....

Kaz

[328]

Hi Kaz,

thanks for your advice, I will check when I get home tomorrow. The 10amp, I think was already blown by the sounds of what you have written.

where can I find the 15amp fuse? That controls the srs and fuel? As we can see when i try the engine there is no fuel going into the engine so it seems this could be likely.

I have bought another srs from eBay so at least we can check that part :)

will keep you posted Kaz.

thanks for your advice as alalways beers,

andy

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Andy.

The 15A fuse is in No.2 position/slot as in the above photo.
You can just about see the whole text ‘FUEL PUMP’ in there as well.

Since it’s 15A, the fuse body is in light blue colour.

If you no longer have the clear plastic film showing the fuse info at your fuse panel (as in the above photo) or if you have limited space when looking at the panel, it’s so easy to make mistake in positioning the fuse at the correct slot.

You could end up with installing 10A and 15A fuses at the slot No.2 & 3 instead of at No.1 & 2.

Once you have the time to test, please let us know whether you can still crank the engine or not.

Kaz

[328]

Cheers Kaz,

will keep you posted.

Cheers,

andy

[328]

Hi Kaz,

the 15a fuse seems to be okay but the car still doesn't start :( what did you mention about the AT inhibitor feature?

cheers,

andy

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Andy.

As in my previous post, can you crank the engine?


Let’s start with the basic.

If you have security/immobiliser system, when you disarm it, can you confirm that it has actually disarmed it by the security LED being switched off?

If you don’t have the security system or if you managed to confirm that it has been disarmed,
then please turn the IG key into P2 (lots of light on the dash, just one position before starting the engine).

As soon as you go into P2, can you hear faint hissing sound for 2sec from behind your seat?
This is the sound of fuel pump.

If you can’t hear this sound, there is a chance that your Main Relay is dead or you have another security device that is preventing you from supplying the fuel into the engine.

After you heard the hissing sound for 2sec, please turn the IG key further to ‘START’ position to crank the engine.

If you can’t crank the engine, then depending on the country/model spec of your NSX, there are several reasons for this.
If it is AT model, you need to be at lest in P or N range.
If it is MT model, you need to press the CL pedal depending on the spec of your NSX.
Depending on how the security system is wired, it may allow you to activate the fuel pump but not the starter and hence, you can't crank the engine although the proper way in installing the security system is to shut down the fuel as well as the starter and spark.


I think the answers to the above will be a good starting point.

And please provide us with extra info on your NSX such as Year/DBW/non-DBW/AT/MT/UK/JDM/modification/etc.

Thank you.

Kaz

[328]

Thanks for all the messages, pm's etc, especially thanks to Kaz the invaluable resource to Nsxcb :)

i think I am one of the last to have realised about the main relay assembly......everyone seems to have a spare! LoL well car is back up and running!!

the bonus was that I guess mine must have lasted the longest as it seems to date back to 1990 :) and had never been changed or altered before!

cheers,

andy