Coolant hoses kit

[madras]

Hi - does anyone have any recommendations of where I can order a full set of coolant hoses from in the UK similar to this - http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=2693

Many thanks,
Chris

[NSXGB]

VtecDirect?

[flyingsniffer]

Not sure it answers your question, but I recently ordered the kit from Dali. Prices in the USA are cheaper, why not order from there?

Be warned that getting stuff from Dali is an interesting experience: the parcel turned up very quickly, however there were a few errors. 22 pipes turned up, of which 2 were LHD only (ie useless) and there was one duplicated pipe. So I'll need to get 5 pipes from the UK/Japan instead of 3. But still, it has saved me a lot of money.

[madras]

thanks

Just wanted to see if there was a silicon kit with all 22 pipes but not looking likely so yes I think I have to order from Dali and get the 3 UK RHD pipes that are not included.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Chris.

As NSXGB mentioned, if you want UK based vendor, you may want to contact Andy at Vtecdirect.
Not UK based but very close is Adnan at A.S. Motorsport.

Just some notes.
You need to use your VIN and not the year model when ordering the coolant hoses.

The shape, length and number of hoses are different depending on the spec of your NSX such as DBW/non-DBW, model year based on VIN, AT/MT, RHD/LHD, etc.
Quite often, the true model year determined by the VIN is not the same as the one that the owner thinks/believes.

At the time of replacing the coolant hoses, please inspect your radiator as well.
It is one of the most neglected parts but it is a consumable one.
The top and bottom plastic tanks are just crimped by the recycled aluminium fins so sooner or later, it will start seeping or the lower tank near the hose neck will crack.
If the plastic tank is no longer showing dark green colour and instead, like dark/light brown, it’s time to replace it.
You can get Koyo all aluminium one from US at cheaper price than OEM even after paying for the delivery/tax/fee.

You may also want to consider replacing the header tank, tank cap, thermostat at the same time if they were not replaced in the past.

Unless you are doing DIY, best to replace all of the hose cramps as well.

While the coolant is drained and replacing the coolant hoses around the TH body, that’s the best time to wash the dirty TH butterfly and idle air port by removing the TH body from the intake manifold.


Unless you are someone who inspects all of the coolant hoses regularly, personally, I don’t recommend using silicone coolant hoses on production cars.


I on purposely don’t send out any parts from Japan until 06/Jan/14 in order to minimise the risk of packages being damaged around New Years day.
It’s the busiest period of the year for the mail and courier services in Japan.

If you are happy to wait for the delivery time after that, you are more than welcome to contact me through email with your VIN (please do not advertise your VIN on public web site) and any modification info especially around the engine and radiator area so that I can include your parts in my next order.

Kaz

[UnhuZ]

Hi Kaz,

can you elaborate on this:


I don’t recommend using silicone coolant hoses on production cars.

i replaced all my coolant hoses and the 6 big ones are silicone now, Venair.

Thanks,
Nuno

[nigel]

If you can wait go through Kaz. If not, get hold of Tim Poliniak over here in the states at his Acura dealership. He has the set of the twenty three hoses in a kit.
Our equivalent of Kaz, (Larry Bastanza) has put together a kit with a special price and even with the VAT and shipping i'm sure they're much cheaper than HUK or most distributors there.

That's where I and many others got theirs.

Cheers
nigel

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi Kaz,

can you elaborate on this:

i replaced all my coolant hoses and the 6 big ones are silicone now, Venair.

Thanks,
Nuno
Hi, Nuno.

The silicone hose is best suited if it is connected to the object that doesn't move/vibrate or the hose has to be designed/secured to minimise the effect of the movement/vibration.

It’s widely known that a certain chemical formula that you can find in some of the coolant will deteriorate the silicone hose.
I don’t know whether Honda Type-2 coolant is one of them or not.

Due to its characteristic (flex), almost all silicone hose has extra multiple layers structure and thus, it will have thicker wall/outer diameter than the OEM EPDM one.
If going for the aftermarket hose, it is very important to copy the exact shape and length of the OEM one otherwise you may end up with shorter life, leakage, etc especially with the hoses connected to the engine and the radiator.
These two parts continuously move and vibrate even at idle rpm.

The OEM hose cramp may not be suitable for the larger diameter silicone hose and also the edge finish of OEM cramps may not be suitable for the use on silicone hose.
Hence, you will need to invest into good quality and reliable cramp considering the different expansion/contraction rate among the silicone hose, metal/plastic pipe and the cramp material/design.

While silicone has better adhesion to the metal pipe under heat and pressure, that is not the case during the expansion/contraction stage with vibration.
You need extra caution if using silicone hose at the area where the connected pipe has movement or vibration.
For example, the hose connected to the engine (three hoses under the header tank) or to the radiator (upper/lower but especially the lower one).
Again, the key is the shape, length and how it is connected to the pipe.
Honda ones are not too bad as they were carefully designed so that it won’t let the hose to easily slip off even under pressure.

However, on other cars, the silicone hose will move or even slip off if used at the area involving the vibration/movement of the mating parts/pipe due to the original hose shape/length/design not thought after enough so it’s very important to invest in the cramp.

I saw many silicone hose from reputable manufactures hardening at the area where the hose cramp sits after only a few years.
Once this happens, the initial cramp force is no longer effective especially once the system has cooled down.
You will need to replace the hose or apply more torque and you just keep repeating these process until it starts seeping tiny amount of coolant.
You will need to keep checking the cramp force/torque frequently.
At the end, many owners went back to the OEM EPDM ones.


I have never tested it by myself but I think one of the member here on NSXCB posted a link to a report from Gates showing that the coolant can pass through the silicone hose (may be it was by Senninha???).

If you are looking after your NSX by yourself, you have full control so no need to worry but if you are asking someone else to carry out the services for you, you need to think about the chemical used during the service if you are using the silicone hose.
Unless you are using the specific silicone hose material/layer, fuel or fuel like chemical will chew into the hose.
You never know what kind of chemicals are used especially when the engine bay is steam cleaned.
Depending on the silicone hose material, the oil can penetrate through it.

There are many good aftermarket parts but when using any of them, it’s always good idea to study why the car manufactures didn’t use the same spec/design as the aftermarket ones from the beginning.
For example, why Honda didn’t use aluminium for the suspension damper body and stayed with the steel one when they paid so much attention to the weight reduction for NSX, why car manufactures don’t use so called ‘oil additive’ that claims to protect the engine and improve the fuel efficiency, why car manufactures don’t use so called ‘best engine oil’ on the market as factory fill oil, etc.

Kaz