Drivers window part???

[coolfunkyd]

While cleaning my car last week noticed that the trim just behind the drivers door mirror had perished.Its the plastic/rubber part that goes over the window glass when the window is closed. Spoke to a local honda and they were not sure and have asked me to bring the car in. Thought I would ask the experts what the part is and the best place to buy. Many thanks

[NSXGB]

The long weatherstrip?
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SW051&block_02=B__4210&block_03=21652

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ner7xSvI8Js/VCZ2uaYpUfI/AAAAAAAAUv4/-DHiGWTqyLA/s640/img_001.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5GgFtR0wwOU/VCZ2vRv_AOI/AAAAAAAAUwA/17JM6-5kX1k/s640/img_002.jpg
Are you referring to the triangle bit (Front Sash Panel) at the front side of the window glass like this one?
The one in the photo is for the left side door, by the way.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ccrDvLrjkIY/VCZ2wOCMZUI/AAAAAAAAUwI/ggjTZFvjI58/s800/img_003.jpg
Or, are you referring to the horizontal long molding (Outer molding) that will cut/wipe off the water when lowering the window glass?


In either cases, you really don't want to touch them unless you have to.
The front sash panel is part of the glass alignment adjuster and even if you mark its original position, you are very likely to go through the full alignment process.


And if you are going to order the new one, please double check the spec of your existing sash.

The parts manufacture changed the design without telling Honda that even there is just one parts number for each door, there is actually two different spec.
You can read this in the following blog;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?870-Final-Touch (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?870-Final-Touch)


If you order the front sash now, you will receive the later spec even the parts no. is still the same as the original one and thus, it's best to replace the upper weatherstrip at the door opening to the later spec at the same time.
Otherwise, you will get wind noise and water getting inside the cabin.




In order to remove the front sash, you must first remove the long horizontal outer molding and you may have really difficult time as it's secured by multiple clips and they are really tight fitting.
Yet, you don't want to apply too much force while removng it if you are thinking about re-using this molding as you will warp it.
It has complicated structure with rubber strip baked on the pressed metal frame and then painted so inevitably, it's mega expensive for what you get. If you pull it too hard, it will warp/deform permanently.

Personally, I won't touch it unless you have access to the spare one as it's so easy to damage it while removing it.


By the way, when removing the front sash, depending on how your NSX was built at the factory, you may drop a washer/spacer/shim inside the door that is not even mentioned in the workshop manual or not even on the parts list.....


If your issue is simple enough like shrunk rugger strip at the outer molding, then fortunately, we have creative engineer britlude (Jonathan) onboard here.
If you search his NSX build thread, you will find his quick fix.
I think he warmed up the rubber strip with heater gun, stretched/pulled it to the original length and then glued it.


Quite often, these parts are out of stock in Japan as they are replaced regularly at the time of slow window fix together with 10s of parts.
I ordered the parts from Japan and even from US but still took more than 6 months to get all of the parts required for the service.

Kaz

[coolfunkyd]

Many thanks for the reply's. It looks like the sash is the part that will need replacing. However after reading your reply Kaz its sound like a bit of a nightmare to replace, that's after successfuly ordering the correct part. I bought Martin Stables car a 1991 car.

[NSXGB]

Looks like your window needs adjustment which is what has caused your problem so I would say you will need to correct that whatever you do.

I do have a spare one if you need it.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Typical damage caused by the window glass going too high....

Over the years, the two stopper plates will shift slowly upwards and results in this damage to the front and rear sashes.....

You will need to lower the stoppers but at the same time, change the recline angle as well.
And if you just follow the procedures and the alignment spec in the workshop manual, you are very likely to get wind noise and water inside the cabin.
I normally allow one full day just for the alignment.


If getting the used front sash, please double check the spec based on my previous post #3 above.


You will need to replace the weatherstrip any way and if you order it now, you will get the later design that is only compatible with the later spec front sash.
As mentioned, there are two different sash specs and obviously, you want the later design one for the compatibility reason.


By the way, if you are going to park the car for a long period, just remember to activate the power window switch in down direction for a very short period. A click like 0.1sec is enough to release the tension against the guide rail.
If it is safe to do so, you may want to lower the window just a bit like a few mm.
This will help in preventing the issue of slow power window operation as well as preventing the stopper plates to move upwards causing the issue you experienced.


Kaz

[coolfunkyd]

Many thanks for the offer of the spare sash but if I have to order the other two bits it doesn't look like it will fit. Sounds like I may have to re-mortgage the house to pay for the weather strip,sash and outer moulding (will see what Mr Honda has to say tomorrow) I may have to try a tempory fix over the winter and tie this in with a brake refresh next year.I now know what to put on my Christmas list. Thanks again for your helpful replys.

[Hagasan]

Is your weatherstrip damaged as well? I can't really view the pictures all that well on my phone! As the new parts are silly money and as your car is a 91 then wouldn't it make sense trying a used good condition earlier version sash assuming you can retain your weatherstrip?


Many thanks for the offer of the spare sash but if I have to order the other two bits it doesn't look like it will fit. Sounds like I may have to re-mortgage the house to pay for the weather strip,sash and outer moulding (will see what Mr Honda has to say tomorrow) I may have to try a tempory fix over the winter and tie this in with a brake refresh next year.I now know what to put on my Christmas list. Thanks again for your helpful replys.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vRrQT8w-zBE/VCsgTln4NiI/AAAAAAAAU1A/68itqEZiFeI/s640/img_002.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l0gpr8Y4AlA/VCsgS3ak9sI/AAAAAAAAU04/pktPh31h4Hs/s640/img_001.jpg
[Please ignore above two photos. Kept for photo link debug purpose only. Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1 (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/posthistory.php?p=110796); 30-09-2014 at 10:40 PM. Reason: added the photo]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hb3TzZu6kcE/VC6DB_EoEzI/AAAAAAAAU6E/Tf0H2P0QaCU/s640/img_002.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N5UrAbUC-Gw/VC6DBCtyDzI/AAAAAAAAU58/7EGJFJcx_9c/s640/img_001.jpg
Unfortunately, you will still need to replace the weatherstrip any way.

1st photo: old design front sash with old/later spec weatherstrip showing the 'dent'
2nd photo: new design front sash with later spec weatherstrip, smooth and flat

If the weatherstrip is the original old spec, it will look fine when you close the door even with the later spec front sash but it will end up wasting all hours adjusting the window glass and result in wind noise and leaky water in the near future simply because the way the front sash/door glass sit on the weatherstrip is different between the old/later spec weatherstrip.

Even if the weatherstrip was replaced in the past to the later design that is designed for the later spec front sash, by now, it is very likely that it already took set by using the old spec front sash and showing 'dent' on it where the front sash meets.

This will create small gap when you install the later spec front sash and again, it will result in the same issue described above especially if the existing setup is already showing the miss-alignment of the door glass. In the past, I tested it by removing the weatherstrip, applied silicone grease, warmed it up and kept it for weeks and still the dent was there so hard to get rid of it once it's done.


While the sash is expensive, the upper weatherstrip is not that bad.
About GBP74 before leaving Japan.


Kaz

[coolfunkyd]

Hi Kaz, those are some strange looking front sash's in your last post?? I ment to ask, if I don't go down the Honda main dealer route for these parts what are the best web sites to order from?

[goldnsx]

My front door needs to be repainted. For a perfect job the rear sash and the outer molding need to be removed. Regarding Kaz's warnings about removing them I'm a little bit curious which route to go...

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi Kaz, those are some strange looking front sash's in your last post?? I ment to ask, if I don't go down the Honda main dealer route for these parts what are the best web sites to order from?
Interesting.....
The original two photos were posted on 30/Sep and somehow they were magically replaced by the two photos only posted 2 days later on 02/Oct..... I better check what's happening with the photo link.
For now, I inserted the original photos and kept the wrong ones for debug purpose in my original post #9.



If you don't need the parts urgently, I can order it for you as the Left side one in the post #3 is the one I ordered for another ower as we will be servicing the slow window full OH early next year.

You need the right side though...


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

My front door needs to be repainted. For a perfect job the rear sash and the outer molding need to be removed. Regarding Kaz's warnings about removing them I'm a little bit curious which route to go...
Hi, goldnsx.

For re-spraying, it's a difficult decision but to do it properly, best to remove everything covering the painted area.

If you are removing the rear sash, it will raise the difficulty level even further.
The lock assy inside the door panel is connected to the outer door lever on the rear sash via the rod linkage oriented from the lever.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cdKwGZ1i-V8/VC6Hsv8fnBI/AAAAAAAAU6Y/x38axKNlorY/s640/img_001.jpg
In order to remove the rear sash, you need to disconnect this rod linkage from the lock assy by prying out the plastic bush/fastener. The lock assy was modified over the years so there is a chance that it uses different method on holding this rod but so far, any NSX that I saw inside the door were using the same plastic bush/fastener.

Very limited space and due to the age, it's so easy to crack this plastic bush/retainer at the end of the 90deg bent rod edge.
Even you managed to disconnect the rod without cracking the bush, part of the bush wants to fly away somewhere while removing it so you don't want to start the service without first getting the replacement bush.

If you apply too much force on disconnecting the rod, you could damge the likage on the lock assy itself and that's mega expensive especially the one at the driver side.


Placing the rod and bush back in their origial slot is even harder.....


Kaz

[coolfunkyd]

Hi Kaz, thanks again for your replays. I will p/m or email you in the next couple of days to find out prices for the three bits i need and check your availability next year for brake overhaul. Reading you service sheets supplied with the car you had concerns about the cars brakes.

[goldnsx]

A little update. My car has been painted on the door and the rear fender. The mechanic was a super-cautious guy, all went well. Oh, it was expensive as well.

Now the worse: I addressed the small tear in the front and rear sashs. My window glass moved up a little bit too far but not that much like in the picture above. The tear got on my nerves as it let water drops in the cabin. So I've adjusted the window stoppers and moved the sashs a little bit outward. BAD idea. After a test-wash I had leakages all over the window. Lesson learned: if the rubber sets with a window going up too far there's no way back unless you change the weatherstrip.
I'm still too cheap buying all new parts (4-digit bill) just because of few water drops. I'll adjust the window stoppers back and move the sash only a little outwards, with electrical tape the tear will be 'fixed'. Hope this helps until all finally lets go and I'm willing to open my wallet.