Changing the sump on an NA2 with manual transmission, process with photos.

[Mistercorn]

Here are my notes and photos from changing the sump on an NA2 NSX with manual transmission. It seems that this is required on a few cars due to over-tightening of the sump bolts. I looked online and found various notes, but no single reference which covered it all, so here it is.

Tools required
Standard socket set
spanners
High and low range torque wrenches, decent quality one.

I have put various photos in the description, if anybody wants any others let me know and I'll try to add them.

Open the bonnet, remove the spare wheel and disconnect the battery.

Working in the engine bay, undo the two bolts and two nuts on the right hand side of the coil cover, as well as the bolt on the black plastic at the top of the engine.

http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4292_2_zps3ae57ffb.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4292_2_zps3ae57ffb.jpg.html)

Then lift up the end of the coil cover so that that the long black cover can be removed.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4291_zpsaff7e99d.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4291_zpsaff7e99d.jpg.html)

Undo the nut holding the connector bracket to the rocker cover. Remove the bracket and push down on the tab to get the connector apart.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4290_zps034d19ff.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4290_zps034d19ff.jpg.html)

Lift the car up in the air, drain the oil from the sump and replace the sump plug.
Wait as long as possible for the oil to drain. Mine was in the air for over 2 months and was still draining oil.


Undo the six 14mm head bolts (59Nm), 2x17mm bolts (93Nm) and 2x17mm nuts (93Nm) holding on the rear beam support, as well as the 2 12mm bolts on each side holding the hand brake cable supports
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4311-2_zps5e1de099.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4311-2_zps5e1de099.jpg.html)

[Mistercorn]

Remove the rear beam support.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4310_zps769c5741.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4310_zps769c5741.jpg.html)

Remove the 5 bolts holding on the lower plastic cover for the gear linkage and remove it
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4303_zps5f4d27d5.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4303_zps5f4d27d5.jpg.html)

Remove the two split pins which hold the gear linkage in place and discard
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4309-2_zps742227e3.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4309-2_zps742227e3.jpg.html)

Remove the metal and plastic washers from under the split pins
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4307_zps17cf3b4f.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4307_zps17cf3b4f.jpg.html)

[Mistercorn]

Remove the 3 bolts holding on the gear linkage, lift the selectors over the pins and remove
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4304_zpsaa9e62b5.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4304_zpsaa9e62b5.jpg.html)


Remove the 3 bolts holding on the upper plastic cover and remove.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4302_zpsfc3c706a.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4302_zpsfc3c706a.jpg.html)


Undo the 4 bolts which hold on the handbrake cable support, and undo the 4 x 10mm nuts which hold the brackets on.
Note that the two nuts in red can be left on if the front bracket isn't being removed for cleaning.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4301-2_zpsf4346281.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4301-2_zpsf4346281.jpg.html)
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4300_zps5915c873.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4300_zps5915c873.jpg.html)

[Mistercorn]

To get the rear beam out you can either remove the long bolt holding the engine mount on to the beam, or remove the engine mount from the engine. I took the engine mount off the engine, held on by 3 x 14mm bolts.
I needed a long spanner to get enough torque on these to undo them, access isn't great.

Unclip the lambda sensor wire from the cover on the beam
Undo the two 17mm (93Nm) bolts holding the beam on and drop the beam down, remove it.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4299-2_zpse1d3f21b.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4299-2_zpse1d3f21b.jpg.html)
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4297_zpsd13462cf.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4297_zpsd13462cf.jpg.html)

Remove the exhaust head shield
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4295-2_zps67eb4421.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4295-2_zps67eb4421.jpg.html)

Undo the two bolts holding the manifold to the catalyst
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4298-2_zpsf216baea.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4298-2_zpsf216baea.jpg.html)

[Mistercorn]

Unclip the lambda sensor wires from the bulkhead.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4289-2_zps1f7064ac.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4289-2_zps1f7064ac.jpg.html)


There is now room to get in and undo the 7 nuts (33Nm) holding the manifold on to the engine. Undo these and remove the manifold.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4288-2_zpsdb1ea4f8.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4288-2_zpsdb1ea4f8.jpg.html)

Unbolt and remove the engine stabiliser
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4287_zps6cad17e6.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4287_zps6cad17e6.jpg.html)


Also undo the three small bolts and remove the cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing.
Unbolt and remove the sump.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4273_zpsa901d355.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4273_zpsa901d355.jpg.html)

[Mistercorn]

The area where the sump joins the engine needs to be very thorougly cleaned. I used a plastic scraper and fingernails to get off any sealant which was stuck on the surface and cleaned the mating face up with IPA.
You can see the circular holes where oil drains down to the sump. Over the course of a few hours these would get covered in oil again.

Clean the top surface of the new sump with IPA to get any grease off.

This next part needs to be done pretty quickly so that the sealant doesn't go off.

Put a thin bead of RTV sealant all around the outside of the sump, making sure you go around both sides of all holes.

http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4283_zpsf9d50d25.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4283_zpsf9d50d25.jpg.html)

Lay the new new gasket on top and repeat.

http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/IMG_4285_zps8e6d9e6e.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/IMG_4285_zps8e6d9e6e.jpg.html)

Fit the sump on the engine and put the following 4 nuts and two bolts in finger tight.
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w627/eaxmjhi/NSX/Boltphotos_zps73a7745f.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/eaxmjhi/media/NSX/Boltphotos_zps73a7745f.jpg.html)

Starting at number 1, in a clockwise direction fit all bolts and put them in finger tight. I did this with a cordless drill to speed the process up, there are 22 nuts and bolts in total.

At this point I refitted the cover at the bottom of the flywheel to stop any sealant getting on to the flywheel.

Go around in a clockwise direction repeatedly tightening the bolts and nuts to pull the sump up, I went round 4 or 5 times before I got to the torque I required on all bolts of 7Nm. Note this is half what is listed in the manual.

Leave the car for enough time for the sealant to cure, I left it over a weekend.

Check the torque on the sump plug (45Nm)

If you are changing the oil filter, do this now, refilling the new filter with oil.

Put some oil in the engine and leave it to drain to the sump, check for leaks.
Top up the oil to the correct level.

Refitting of all the other parts is the reverse of removal :)

MC

[mjames75]

Nice work. Is it ok to let the oil drain for that long leaving the engine dry? I know the oil stays at the bottom of the engine so it should be ok?

[Mistercorn]

Even with it being left for that length of time, which was mainly as I was cleaning up the suspension and giving the bodywork a full going over, if left for an hour or two there would be enough oil draining down to cover the area where the gasket will sit in some places. To give the sealant the best chance to work ideally you want as little oil as possible to be on there until it is fully cured. Kaz told me the best way is to do this with the engine out so you can turn it upside down...

MC

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Nice write up and photos, Mistercorn.

Additional information in case someone thinking of DIY......


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Hgj35uTMuQ0/VIrxiVc9paI/AAAAAAAAWKM/v3HwgCZf4pk/s800/RodA.jpg
Depending on the year model, the two bolts marked in red are different from the rest of the four bolts at the upper side of the photo.
The ones marked in red are 30mm length with tapered end.
The rest of the four bolts holding this boomerang like Rod A are 35mm length with flat end.
If you have earlier models, all six will be the same spec with tapered end.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EFcAojIfGrA/VIrxhYhFenI/AAAAAAAAWKE/K2pIHlNVML8/s800/LiquidGasket.jpg
Please apply liquid gasket to the uneven surface marked in blue. They are the mating surface of the oil pump and the side cover. Eng oil tends to seep from these places as well.



If you parked your car for prolonged period, personally, I prefer first hand rotating the engine clockwise (by looking at the crank pulley) for many times to shift away the moisture on the metal surface as much as possible.
Then, disable the INJ and IG coil. You can disable all six INJ in one go by disconnecting the INJ resistor or the busbar connector depending on the spec of your NSX.
To disable the IG coil, you can disconnect the connector from each IG coils or if you have already removed the air box base for other reasons, just disconnect the busbar connector mounted at the top of gbox.

Then, short crank (bump) the engine several times in a hope to splash some oil followed by multiple of steady cranking several times. If your battery is healthy, it will be cranking at about 200rpm. It will circulate some oil before starting the engine properly.

Kaz

[Pride]

Good job Mistercorn, I'm surprised you don't go all the way and install the Spoon rigid collar kit that Burns Motorsport sell as it's so beautifully clean and easy to access under your car.

http://www.rigidcollar.com/what-is-rigid-collar/

I know they have stock as I was very tempted myself and with the way you present your work on the forum they might even offer to give you a set to review and appraise for possible further sales.

It's worth an ask mate.:)

[duncan]

Useful write up, a picture is worth a 1000 words.
I can only look at your rust free exhaust clamps and manifold nuts and dream.

[solidol]

I was under impression when you have oem front header you can just take the mid pipe out and drop the oil pan. Six bolts and you have access to the pan. That was the reason I replaced oil pan gasket before putting Comptech headers. What am I missing?

That piece of pipe that's still connected here:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5XJbRmMkAAE/U6pXUTZjDUI/AAAAAAAANsg/bn8vn6Bnhk4/w806-h604-no/image_7.jpeg

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, solidol.
If you try replacing the oil pan gasket now with your Comptech header in place, you will find the answer :) .


As in the thread title, the OP has the NA2 OEM header.

The flex joint pipe in your photo is for the NA1 engine and it's part of 2 pieces heavy 'anchor' front exh manifold and not a header.
NA2 front OEM header is a 1 piece product from the exh port on the cyl head to the entrance of the front CAT (like your Comptech front header) and thus, you need to remove the whole bit in order to 'properly' replace the oil pan gasket.

NA1 front OEM exh manifold is a 2 pieces product and yes indeed, you can disconnect the down pipe (in your photo) by disconnecting just 6 nuts.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tsnkqHAla5k/UOYNy1tNKuI/AAAAAAAAHYk/ndzeQnKFCcM/s640/IMG_0240.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a4EJpL-sgwY/UOYN1VNOLdI/AAAAAAAAHY0/dDBsvQwPQiQ/s640/IMG_0242.JPG
NA2 front OEM header.
It may look like you can separate it at the middle flange in this photo but it's welded and 1 piece from the top to the CAT entrance.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IlYiz7GQ_kU/VKk6zHJjy3I/AAAAAAAAW6M/tVLzrnyEJZw/s640/img_067.jpg
NA1 front OEM manifold with aftermarket header.
You can see what I mean. The NA1 front flex down pipe can be separated from the upper manifold whereas like the NA2 front OEM header, the aftermarket one is pretty much 1 piece all the way to the front CAT entrance depending on the spec.


Kaz

[solidol]

Kaz, yeah I didn't know NA2 header is one piece design. This is where confusion came from. I guess having heavy cast manifold on na1 it was sturdy enough to add flex midpipe. I actually liked how easy it was to access oil pan. But with ct header sure I had to fix my tiny oil leak on the pan first before installing it :)