NSX-R brakes

[Minch]

Has anyone out there fitted NSX-R brakes to their NA1? I'm interested to know how good/bad they are. If I'm to carry out work to improve the car I'd like to keep it as 'Honda' as possible.

Cheers

[simonprelude]

Are you talking about NA1 NSX-R brakes, if so ??

The NA2 NSX-R brakes would probably end up costing £££ and may even need a wheel change as they use bigger discs and calipers.

The keeping as Honda intended versus bigger brakes was a dilemma I faced recently, I ended up replacing the discs with the 2 piece grooved ones and using the NA2 NSX-R pads, so far VERY good :) Probably not in the same league as Kevin's or Darren's, but adequate for me at the moment.

[markc]

You can fairly easily convert your car to accept the larger NA2 discs with a kit consisting of new caliper mounts and bigger discs.

An example of these can be found here... http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1929

The NA1 and NA2 calipers differ very slightly but are effectively the same making this a very cost effective, if minor, upgrade if you need new discs anyway. 8)

Although not factory Type-R discs the ones in the above kit are much the same thing. You can go a touch further by going with the 2 piece "floating hat" versions as Simon has.

These discs will be finding their way onto my car come disc replacement time.

Cheers

Mark

[Minch]

Cheers for the advice guys.

Basically I saw this on SOS and would ideally like the whole set up if it would fit under the later 16" & 17" alloys.

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/braking_performance_parts/NSX/Honda/NA2_NSXR/

Part of it is still having the NSX logo on the caliper as I'd prefer it to look as standard as possible.

[98NSX-T]

For whatever it is worth, I was the first one to have Dali's 2 piece floating disc as the templates were made on my car - a search on prime will show the pics and my feedback. I have had them for almost two years now. The torque that they generate is phenomenal with Panther Plus street/track pads and the limiting factor is the street tires. It is critical to bed the pads/discs correctly. They offer better cooling by about 100F-150F at the track.

After some 10+ track days, I turned the rotors because of a groove from a debris on the rears - so freshened all four. Have run on them another 5 track days and the fronts are starting to show hairline cracks which is normal. Recently bought a new pair for the front but haven't installed them yet.

To my knowledge, there is no other product or better option for the 97+ if you want to keep the OEM calipers.

[Kevin]

I believe (and pretty certain) NSX-R brakes are the same as NA2 brakes, except for the slotted rotors and red pads.

This means they will fit the 16" front wheels. Like others have said 2 piece slotted rotors and some racy pads will do the same thing.

Big brakes are great, but if using them with standard wheels like I do, you'll soon realise that the tyres are now the weak link. I have more braking power than the tyres can cope with.

[Minch]

Thanks for your advice chaps.

My car is currently sitting patiently at Plans Motorsport this week ready for its service/health check. Hence the reason why I'm looking at mods. Can't decide between something like the SOS home bred suspension or the Type S. I want something between a track day car and standard (fast road really)

PS . . . does anyone know a decent engine shop? I am still considering the 3.6-3.8 conversion but think it may be easier to get it built over here with support from SOS

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine%5Fperformance%5Fproducts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/custom%5Fengine%5Fprogram/custom%5Fengine%5Fprogram/3.6%2D3.8L/components/

[simonprelude]

Any tips ??

It is critical to bed the pads/discs correctly. They offer better cooling by about 100F-150F at the track.

Did you buy new discs or just new rotors to go on the existing bell housing

Recently bought a new pair for the front but haven't installed them yet.

[98NSX-T]

It is best to follow the bedding directions of the pad or rotor manufacturer - they almost always pretty much say the same. About 6 consecutive - with minimal cool down inbetween - firm to hard stops from 50 or 60 to 5 or10 mph without locking the brakes (and not full stop) to make sure they start getting hot, then the same from 80 down to 10 mph. By then you should start smelling the brakes and might feel some softness on pedal if your brake fluid is not high temp. The idea is to gas the pads and put a smooth layer of the pad material on the rotor. Immediate cool down after wards is as important and that can be at a minimum 30 minutes (overnight is preferable).

After turning the rotors I didn't have time to bed them before the track so I bed them at the track with cool down between the sessions.

Even though you can replace just the rotor and keep the hat, I bought the complete set as the difference was minimal. With the new set, I will use new pads.

[simonprelude]

Thanks, pretty much as I have done.

Brakes are now good enough to worry an Elise :)

[98NSX-T]

If you are going to push the car on the track with such brakes, I recommend you add the noncompliant clamps. On hard braking, you will minimize the kicking feel in your steering due to dynamic toe change. I have not noticed much difference in street driving others have noted a bit more bouncing. I have kept mine on permanently.

I have the ones from Comptech, and Comptech gives 10% discount to NSXCA members: http://www.comptechusa.com/store/16040.html

and I believe the ones from ScienceofSpeed are the same: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/suspension%5Fperformance%5Fproducts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/non%2Dcompliance/pivot%5Fclamp/

Subsequently, Dave (titaniumdave on Prime) made ones that give more room to OEM wheels/tires otherwise on full lock you may rub with Comptech. You can get Dave's direct from him or from DaliRacing: http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/boy_racer/non-compliance-clamp-dave/index.cfm