Left pop up NOT popping up on my 92 NA1.

[Pride]

Any suggestions please on why my left hand headlamp pop up not working.
It started playing up after arriving home tonight about 10pm.
I turned the headlamps off and then on again when the left side came just half way up so I turned them off again and then on, but now it stays down while every 10 seconds making electrical/mechanical noises from the mechanism behind the shroud.
To stop this noise I've had to disconnect the battery.
Has anyone had similar problems and if so what was the cure.
It was dark and late so haven't had time to investigate, is there a separate relay for these and if so does anyone know where it would be???
All help and suggestions appreciated.
Cheers,
Clive

[Pride]

Help please.
I've just been investigating my problem and where my left light didn't go down completely, in fact it was all floppy meaning I could lift it up and down to where it stopped, so I gently pushed it fully down without much effort but now I hear a clicking sound every 5 seconds as if it was trying to go down.
The headlamp is down now and cannot be pulled up.
Also to stop this clicking sound I've had to disconnect the battery. And when I reconnect it the clicking starts again.
So I've left the battery disconnected.

Has anyone had similar problems.

[NSXGB]

Sounds FUBAR.... I have a spare ;)

Have a look in the online manual - http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/info/acura-nsx-service_manual_91/13_electrical.pdf 23-187

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Without having access to your NSX, it’s not easy to diagnose so followings are just basic things you can do.

There is no need to disconnect the battery.
If you want to kill the power supply to the L side motor, just pull out the 15A fuse inside the pentagonal main relay box under the bonnet.
The position of the fuse is on the sticker located on the lid or check the online workshop manual.

If you need to drive the car with the headlight while having the above L side fuse removed, you can manually raise the L side headlight unit by simply turning the ‘knob’ in the direction of the arrow.
Please make sure to remove the correct fuse before doing this, otherwise you may injure yourself as the motor will try kicking back your finger if the power is still live.
You can find the cylinder like knob with black plastic cap right behind the headlight housing.
Remove the cap and keep rotating it in the direction of the arrow. The headlight unit will slowly go up as well as go down manually and you can keep doing so until you get tired.
For the Right side, since it sounds like operating fine so just let the electronics do the normal operation.

Headlight bulb itself should switch On and Off regardless of the retractor position.
Therefore, you should be able to see the L side headlight switching On even when the pop up is facing down.

It is quite common to have loose connection behind the retractor manual override switch at the dash causing the retractor to not operate properly but if that was the case, it would happen on both side and not just L side like yours so very unlikely to be the case.

For this kind of issue, I would first check the health of the motor.
Simply apply 12V at the motor directly.
You need workshop manual to find out the pin out but if your motor is healthy, it will keep going up and down until you kill the power.

There is a round disc attached to the motor/linkage. This acts as the limit switch/feedback to tell the 'retractable head light control unit' on where about the position of the retractor is.
This will switch On and Off the power to the motor.

There are two relays for each side (L and R) of the headlight unit involved. Not common but could fail.


Kaz

[Pride]

Thanks Kaz, I will investigate over the weekend.

[Pride]

Sounds FUBAR.... I have a spare ;)

Whats a FUBAR???

[britlude]

if you can (could) lift it and lower it with no resistance (floppy), it sounds like the mechanism/linkage has broken or disconnected, the motor is trying to lower it until the limit switch is tripped...as it's not getting to the limit switch position it'll keep trying to drive the motor until it does...

sounds like it's got to come out.... not sure if you can do that without lifting the light to get the cover off/access the bolts!

fubar.... ****ed up beyond all recognition....

[havoc]

Whats a FUBAR???

It's a pub run by Dave Grohl...but that's not important right now, your headlight's f***ed! ;)

[lotusolly]

Help please.
I've just been investigating my problem and where my left light didn't go down completely, in fact it was all floppy meaning I could lift it up and down to where it stopped, so I gently pushed it fully down without much effort but now I hear a clicking sound every 5 seconds as if it was trying to go down.
The headlamp is down now and cannot be pulled up.
Also to stop this clicking sound I've had to disconnect the battery. And when I reconnect it the clicking starts again.
So I've left the battery disconnected.

Has anyone had similar problems.

Have you looked for a stray LED in the mechanism? ;)

[NZNick]

^ nice one!! ;)

[Pride]

Have you looked for a stray LED in the mechanism? ;)

It did cross my mind but sadly no:laugh::)

[Hagasan]

Just got off the phone with NASA. They said they had spoken to SoS but could not confirm an absolute diagnosis. Reassuringly however they did confirm your car is still visible from space so it's not all bad. ;)

[Pride]

Just got off the phone with NASA. They said they had spoken to SoS but could not confirm an absolute diagnosis. Reassuringly however they did confirm your car is still visible from space so it's not all bad. ;)

I think that must be my nearly finished led encrusted carbon fibre engine cover I was testing last night, thanks for the info though. 😁

[Pride]

I have discovered that it's either a broken linkage or the linkage has just become disconnected as I cannot manually raise it via the override control knob, it just turns on its self with nothing happening.

Fortunatley I can just lift up the headlamp and use a prop to expose access to the 4 casing screws, the only problem now is that 3 of the 4 screws are completely seized in.

Looking at the screw I did manage to remove they have a 5mm shoulder just above the thread, my question is has anyone tried to drill these out and if so did it resolve the problem without wrecking the female thread OR if you didn't drill them out what method did you use to extract them.

I have soaked them in WD40 for 2 days now and still they don't budge, I was toying with using an impact driver but because it's the delicate headlamp housing and assembley thought better of it.

Thanks

[Hagasan]

Without a picture I'm not sure the screws you mean however if you can get one on then shoulder, can you not try carefully grab the screw with some mole grips? You'll get more turning leverage than a screwdriver.. I wouldn't use an impact driver

[Pride]

Without a picture I'm not sure the screws you mean however if you can get one on then shoulder, can you not try carefully grab the screw with some mole grips? You'll get more turning leverage than a screwdriver.. I wouldn't use an impact driver

Thanks Gary, they are cross head screw/bolts which on one side of the shroud sit flush with no purchase for any type of grip and on the other side of the shroud they screw into a recess, after you remove the very small trim covers.

Talk about bl**dy frustration.

[Pride]

Kaz, do you mind me asking what you would do???
Thanks.

[exiges1]

You might want to try a different penetrating fluid? There's some YouTube vids that suggest that 50/50 acetone and auto trans fluid mix is very effective. Not sure whether the ATF would damage your headlight shroud paint though.

[duncan]

Make sure that any screwdriver or screwdriver bit is JIS compliant. If you use a Philips form bit you will trash the head.
If time is of the essence, the OEM screwdriver in the toolkit is probably JIS, it certainly is better than a Philips.
Put a spare Philips screw in a vice and try a Philips screwdriver and it will cam out (that's exactly what it's designed to do), try the OEM or JIS screwdriver and it won't.
Personally I'd try a lightweight impact driver; Vessel include within their range some hammer through impact screwdrivers,
http://www.onlyqualitytools.com/catalog/Vessel/MEGADORA_IMPACTA_Screwdrivers.html
maybe a thought.
P.S AND don't even think of a Posi headed bit or driver

[Pride]

Thanks guys, both very good advice and suggestions, I'm ordering a range of JIS Philips bits and a capillary action heavy duty releasing agent today.
Just a shame I've gone and butchered the head of one of the screws already.:(
Thanks

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

I normally use T-wrench on these screws in order to prevent striping the screw head. Applying small impact will help as well but be careful as the metal frame structure of the head light unit holder is not that rigid for side way impact.
Also, you may want to take the light bulb out first before applying any impact.


I don’t recommend using the harsh chemical such as the acetone on this painted plastic parts.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C4l7J1arM1c/VdTKHcOah3I/AAAAAAAAbBU/5MZjjLXufSk/s640-Ic42/201508_107.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NnL_vGqS_ww/VdTKCZusU-I/AAAAAAAAbAk/IBEt1bl6s7s/s640-Ic42/201508_101.jpg
Because of the design/structure of the screw and the presence of the thin plastic washer behind the screw head, I don’t think you can apply the penetrating oil to the screw thread effectively any way.

If it’s seized, just sear off or drill out the screw head.
Once you have managed to remove the plastic head light cover and the head light unit (just 4 x 10mm bolt), you have very good access to the remains of the screw body.
The four female/receptacle thread/square nut is welded to the frame as you can see in the photo.


Kaz

[Pride]

Cheers Kaz, I won't use the extra strong freeing agent when it arrives then that's for sure.

If the JIS cross head bits don't do the trick then a carbon tipped drill will.:)

How Honda GB can justify £6!!!!! per screw beggars belief, and then it will take 3 to 4 weeks to arrive in stock, that really takes the preverbial. :(

[NSXGB]

How Honda GB can justify £6!!!!! per screw beggars belief, and then it will take 3 to 4 weeks to arrive in stock, that really takes the preverbial. :(


I have some used ones in stock.... £5 each :)