Manual steering conversion

[gcon45]

Having developed a problem with my EPS rack (suspected commutator failure) which is causing a screeching sound when turning the wheel I've decided that now is a good time to convert to a manual rack.

I have had an alternator failure since but am unsure if the issues are related.
There is a possibility as Kaz has previously mentioned that a blown commutator in the rack could be the cause of an increase in resistance. I have since fitted a new alternator and have disabled the EPS as a preventive measure.

I'm planning on doing the manual conversion and then sending my EPS rack to T3TEC in Japan for an overhaul this winter. Hopefully the rack will be repairable and if so, I will decide then whether to re-fit it next summer or keep the manual rack in place.

I'm trying to compile a list of parts I'll need to do the manual conversion (and I don't want to bother Kaz as I know he's very busy at the moment with racing) and was wondering if anyone on here can confirm that these part numbers are compatible with my 2002 facelift?
Did the rack or any of the rack components change through the years?

RACK: 53040-SL0-003
UNIVERSAL JOINT: 53323-SM4-013
BUSH: 53436-SL0-A01
BRACKET: 53438-SL0-A00
INNER ROD (X2): 53521-SL0-A01
LH TRACK ROD END: 53560-SL0-A01
RH TRACK ROD END: 53540-SL0-A01

Thanks in advance!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

You are going to struggle getting the answer as most (if not all) of the 95+ non-JDM NSX left the factory with the EPS.
EPS was optional equipment for the JDM Coupe MT models throughout its production and standard for the NSX-T and AT models.

The manual rack was the same for all year models so please use -003.
You may be able to find used one in Japan as several owners including the Type-R/NSX-R owners decided to convert their NSX with EPS.

You must replace the joint, SM4-013.

Unless heavily corroded or already damaged, no need replacing the tie rod and rack end. You can re-use them.
Same for the bush and the bracket although the bush could be showing some hairline crack with the age.

Strictly speaking, the length of the rackend boot is different between the manual and the EPS but can be reused. The metal washer and locking washer are also different but small cost so just replace them.
In fact, you should not re-use the locking washer anyway.

Please do not send the tierod and rackend attached to the EPS rack when sending it to T3TEC.
They don’t need them for overhauling so please just send the EPS rack only.

You need the rubber grommet around the column/top of the rack but very cheap.

Kaz

[gcon45]

Many thanks yet again Kaz!

[gcon45]

Just a heads up for anyone looking for a new manual rack.
I ended up ordering mine from Amayama who are a genuine Japanese part
supplier.

The rack from Honda UK retails at £1513 + VAT and they are on back order until the end of June.
The same item from Japan is £496 + shipping + import duty, which works out at (approximately) £723 all in.