Aerial motor failure?

[havoc]

Failed to avoid a (dead) deer on a D-C yesterday afternoon - n/s wheels went over the neck of the animal. :(

Luck was clearly on my side, as it looks like I managed to get away without any visible damage (front lip undamaged, tyres and wheels look OK, although I need to check for any slow puncture / inner-rim damage tonight / tomorrow).


...except the antenna retraction motor has coincidentally stopped working on that journey. And as it was a D-C I had the radio on, so the antenna is now stuck up, rather than down which I could live with...


Doing a little reading:-
- The fuse is linked elsewhere, so unlikely to be that;
- First thought is a connection has worked loose under the jolt through the wheels
- Second is that the motor itself may have failed.

...but what else should I check / look-out for?
...and how can I get the antenna retracted?

[goldnsx]

Antenna
Do you hear the antenna motor working when you set the radio ON/OFF?
In my case, the nylon of the antenna broke in the antenna motor. The motor was still working but didn't retract the antenna anymore. Do NOT make the fault of pushing the antenna down with force orelse more damage could result.

[WhyOne?]

Sorry to hear of your problems.

If all else fails, I have a spare (2nd hand, but defiantly working) aerial unit I don't need.

[havoc]

Motor sound - I didn't, but I couldn't say I was actually listening for it - will check again.

Ian - if it turns out to be the motor, I'll probably take you up on that, thanks!

[havoc]

OK, random update - went into the garage this morning, and the aerial was down! It was definitely up when i closed the door on Weds night, so I'm perplexed.

Checked it a few times - it seemed a little 'sticky' and I could hear the ratchet working one or two knocks right at the end of extension/retraction, so a quick spray with some WD40* and a few up-and-downs to get it lubricated, and I'll see what it's like tomorrow.

Ian - thanks for the offer, looks like it MAY be OK. I ought to take the boot liner out to double-check when I've a bit of time though...see what condition everything's in...



* Need to get some silicone grease, I know...

[NSX 2000]

I would recommend you do it on the Euro Tour when you have lots of people to give you a hand.

[WhyOne?]

Ian - thanks for the offer, looks like it MAY be OK. ...

Pleased to hear that all seems to be well once more Martin.

[goldnsx]

- it seemed a little 'sticky' and I could hear the ratchet working one or two knocks right at the end of extension/retraction...
That doesn't sound right. It only does knock if you install a new antenna and the unit is self-calibrating. My guess is that the nylon of the old antenna is worn as that is why you hear it knocking. Not to make you feel unsure but you might have to change the antenna in the future. But it won't end in a catastrophic failure, mine just stayed up when the nylon broke at the buttom.

[havoc]

If it's the same basic unit as was in my DC2s (looks like it), then the knocking is the ratchet 'skipping' to prevent motor damage when the aerial resistance is too great (i.e. dirty/stuck), or where it's already reached full-retraction before expected (as it didn't extend fully before as it was dirty). Give it a proper clean and it stops knocking as it can move easily through the full range again...

Usually abbreviated to "TADTS" ;)

[Nick Graves]

TADT,S!

I found I had to keep re-lubricating mine as it would not retract fully.

A new mast fixed that.

Re-installing it, you have to be quick to run around the the back of the car to get the nylon tail to pick up! LHD would be easier...

[Pride]

OK, Checked it a few times - it seemed a little 'sticky' and I could hear the ratchet working one or two knocks right at the end of extension/retraction, so a quick spray with some WD40* and a few up-and-downs to get it lubricated, and I'll see what it's like tomorrow.

Ian - thanks for the offer, looks like it MAY be OK. I ought to take the boot liner out to double-check when I've a bit of time though...see what condition everything's in...

* Need to get some silicone grease, I know...

Never WD40 as you know and really not even silicon grease on the mast, just a good strong upwards clean with an alcohol based tissue and then throughly dried off with a clean tissue until spotless and dry.

If it's still sticking and making a ratcheting noise then instal a new mast and perlon.

I'm pretty sure I've got a brand new boxed one kicking around in the garage, I can bring it along on the Tour if want Martin??

[Pride]

TADT,S!

I found I had to keep re-lubricating mine as it would not retract fully.

A new mast fixed that.

Re-installing it, you have to be quick to run around the the back of the car to get the nylon tail to pick up! LHD would be easier...

Open the passenger door, it takes less than a second after pressing the on button.👍

[goldnsx]

Re-installing it, you have to be quick to run around the the back of the car to get the nylon tail to pick up! LHD would be easier...
LHD is a tad easier, yes, but RHD is more fun to watch (for the spectators). :)

[havoc]

LOL - I am NOT doing anything on the Tour then...knowing my luck there'll be 3 separate iPhone videos of the charade captured and shared for everyone (else's) entertainment... :D


Clive - alcohol rub - OK, fair 'nuff...will hunt some down...somehow doubt the old vodka at the back of the cupboard is quite pure enough! ;)

I'll hold fire on a new mast while I try and tidy this one up - it's been absolutely fine for the last 7 years (20?), so fingers crossed...

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

While I don't want missing the popcorn time for everyone watching the owner running around the car, if it suddenly failed with no apparent reason, I would look into it from the mechanical (bent mast with increased friction, damaged retractor nylon cable teeth) as well as intermittent electrical issue (corroded female terminal, water soaked motor, etc).

On the mechanical side, if you powered up the audio head unit while at motorway cruising speed, eventually, your mast will be bent rearward and it will accumulate all sorts of debris such as road film, etc.
Just wipe them off and carefully bend it back gently.
Normally, this is enough to reduce the friction (if that was the cause of issue although normally, if the bent mast was the cause, it will stuck half way or at the very end of the travel and not like staying at max height) and fix the mechanical issues unless your retractor nylon cable teeth were damaged.


For the electronics aspect, I believe you have non-JDM spec aerial/antenna (ANT) assy (without the half height option) so you only need checking 3 wires and you have just two positions to test, fully up or down.

If you peel off the left side boot carpet where the ANT motor is mounted, there is a 4 pin non-WPC at the motor.
You can test the ANT motor without running around the car…..

I don't have the photo showing the wire colour of the ANT motor connector on UK models and only have the one for the JDM mating side so please keep this in mind when referring to the wire colour.
It could be different for your model but if you have multimeter, easy to check.
Having said this, the wire colour at the mating connector for GND (BLK) and switched +B (PNK/WHT) are the same for all country spec so the remaining wire is the +B on UK models as only 3 wires used instead of 4 on JDM.

The 3 wires are; GND (BLK), +B (WHT/BLU, always at battery voltage regardless of IG key), switched +B (PNK/WHT, only becomes live when IG key in P1 or P2 AND audio head unit powered up).

Please disconnect this 4pin non-WPC connector and test the ANT motor as a standalone parts.
All you need is to keep power between the GND and +B terminals.
While keeping power at these two terminals, if you apply 12V at the switched +B terminal (as if you powered up the audio head unit), your ANT should go fully up.
As soon as you remove the switched +B, the ANT will go down.

While in there, please carefully inspect the condition of the female terminals at the 4pin connector.
Ideally, you want to use the mating terminal to feel the friction when inserted to the female side but you should be able to tell any corrosion, damages, etc by looking for the changes in the colour, loose/broken off metal parts, etc on the female terminal.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1ksHB9KWZ76AXdEW2AfOs5lDA0rtl035jYJk-lLAzoog4VVVcQlWnbetlyMJZ8OJ4niuCoVuKmRbyjVmSOCT924 EnwsC7DOnMEETqJUfErOonmshqX8JCnuqZPD6H3LeWc9UteFq5 bGRgxdMpW8rcuRg8A_pRsOFtT-XFLzj74-2Ju5B1LK2wwfeisZ1GK8WeNcP57uz6vEAKUTJSjYoMu8V3L-yxCCRXkgZTqh4GHVMnwp6JS_vPO8KynETVoxeAS8Hw7B6UXXUl x2ZNb1mkA6b9Fy_TGYdjT2AyEUe1akG_iGcteDSzrPu0UU8Kki S5FlMzk6i6hSmn8wavns2F465p9K3QAGBqw0tUcIy_oacqsdXQ obxq979qUZsF3hCEhA29aYC5rWVGESo1D1pNM8qkIDACh6si7l 17Qs7SrcnBj7LRzl9Y2evFdSzwCD7BDukv-6tdOr4C9925SzO8di9AI5CuidobvsuyXG0fUEJng2nitUYSvLV xauqiyRq7vPM5AG6uqcxeMkAtRQfiwKQXI9yPPUXpAUaPn_Sz1 jBJay85oTLOdszQwT9I_EHh3dghliKiUjQplCSrk16ydxROynX KKMsQ3GUUIpssBRPAxFbiBazYw=w800-h600-no
Addition to the 4pin connector of the ANT motor, please check the female terminal of the 22pin connector located further forward behind the left boot carpet here.
It's the big grey connector towards the right top corner of this photo.
(Please ignore the black jumper wire connected to the GND point. It was used for other purpose.)


This is very important especially if you have ever seen moisture at the back of the boot lid after driving the car for a while or if you have condensation inside the tail light assy.
Several owners experienced different issues because of the damaged female terminals.

Any damages to the female terminals here will cause ALB/TCS warning light for RR w/speed sensor (even if the sensor was fine), BRAKE LAMP warning light on the dash, ANT motor issue, etc.

Honda should have used WPC type connector and not non-WPC.
Same reason for the intermittent lock/un-lock switch at the door handle as Honda used non-WPC behind the door card where it can get moisture.


Best of luck for the popcorn time.....


Kaz

[havoc]

Thanks Kaz - appreciate the time taken to write that up!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

And that's why I no longer regularly post in this forum....

[Pride]

Come on guys have a sense of humour, don't take it to seriously :)

[Nick Graves]

Open the passenger door, it takes less than a second after pressing the on button.��

If I'd had the intelligence to park the car on the other side of the drive and not use the ignition switch instead, that might have worked.

But I don't and didn't, so I blindly followed orders...

I'm off to buy a stupid German car....

[nigel]

I try and clean and lubricate mine at least once a year.
I use "Tri-Flo" teflon lubricant.
I have been using it on helicopter sliding doors for years on the track and teflon supports.
Tri-Flo won't collect dirt and is the boll!cks for the helicopters.
It was originally used for bicycle chain lube.
A bit pricey but it works.

Cheers
nigel

[havoc]

Thanks Nigel...will check that out...