Detailing

[goldnsx]

My car is getting older, so do I. In the early years I washed it by hand quite often and gave it some coats of carnauba twice a year. But this requires too much time and effort nowadays. I only do the complete procedure (with a coat of wax) once a year. During the year I simply washed it with pressurized water mainly to keep the front and the wheel clean (5 min job).

I've watched some detailing videos on youtube to get some inspiration what tools could faciliate the detailing process for the interior and exterior. And I also thought about a professional detailer but I still hesitate. What would you do?

[Pride]

Move the video on to about 4'20", I think this guy was Swiss: 😳😱

https://youtu.be/sMBuLTt0PQA

[Silver Surfer]

Asked the re-ignited Papalazarou... he is one of the detailing expert on this forum.

SS

[goldtop]

Did I imagine it, or did Mike (mjames75) also change career to professional detailing?

[NSXGB]

Did I imagine it, or did Mike (mjames75) also change career to professional detailing?

Correct: https://www.minutiadetailing.com

[goldnsx]

There's an NSX-R on the website. Looks good.

Regarding tools, I'll get a soft brush often seen in those detailing videos. What really looks cool but I'm not sure is mainly show are the showflake-like washing guns. Worth the money?

[dcnsx]

[QUOTE What really looks cool but I'm not sure is mainly show are the showflake-like washing guns. Worth the money?[/QUOTE]

Yes i’d say so, I use one with my Karcher. It acts as a pre wash to loosen grime etc, just remember to rinse it off before you start the main wash. Have you considered a vinyl wrap? If your paintwork is looking a little tired it might be just the answer and it could stop it from getting worse I suppose.

[goldnsx]

Thanks for the suggestion of a vinyl wrap. Actually, the paint looks very good. I'm simply not willing/being able put in so much effort in keeping it clean. So I'm trying to faciliate the process.

Just came across an amusing product review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEZKHze8Sq8 His curse at 4:11 doesn't have to be translated. :)

My father has a Kärcher. The additional tool FJ 6 is on my wish list.

[dcnsx]

I am of the opinion that you shouldn’t wash cars to much. The more times you touch the surface the more chance of it getting scratched. My car avoids the rain etc if it can, it will just get dusty sat in the garage but keeps it’s shine. The road grime builds up over time but that’s the only time it gets a proper wash.

[havoc]

I am of the opinion that you shouldn’t wash cars to much. The more times you touch the surface the more chance of it getting scratched. My car avoids the rain etc if it can, it will just get dusty sat in the garage but keeps it’s shine. The road grime builds up over time but that’s the only time it gets a proper wash.

This. Better to let a little dust/dirt accumulate then clean it, rather than doing it every other drive...

Regular waxing facilitates quicker/easier cleaning of road grime, but needs a very clean surface to start with.

[dcnsx]

[QUOTE=havoc;125063]This. Better to let a little dust/dirt accumulate then clean it, rather than doing it every other drive...

Yes like I said, basically don’t wash it too much.

[goldnsx]

I've good experiences with just using pressurized water. The paint won't be touched by a brush or so. But it needs a good coat of underlying wax.

[Pride]

I've good experiences with just using pressurized water. The paint won't be touched by a brush or so. But it needs a good coat of underlying wax.

If you have "hard" water in Switzerland it would be wise to use a specialist water softening kit like this one for that occasional pressurised rinse down, there are quite a few other models available on Amazon and eBay:

http://www.motorgeek.co.uk/cgi-bin/ecom.cgi?Command=ShowProduct&db_pid=1084

[NSX 2000]

Did I imagine it, or did Mike (mjames75) also change career to professional detailing?


Correct: https://www.minutiadetailing.com

I can recommend Michael, he did my (whisper) Focus RS, including fitting clear vinyl to protect the front end bits from stone chips. It really shines and you can't see the vinyl unless you really look.

He also has his own (NA2) NSX Type R, not the one in the photo.

[goldnsx]

If you have "hard" water in Switzerland...
Very few of the car wash stations here that claim to use 'Osmose', demineralised or whatever water without leaving spots after completely drying are fulfilling their marketing phrases but the one I use is managed by a car-fan and is the only one I know of where the water doesn't leave spots. At home, it's a different story. But as the car wash station is not far from home I give it a final wash there after a thorough wash at home. I don't like/can't wash it the timeconsuming way in the car wash station with people nervously waiting in the queue...:)

[Nick Graves]

I use rainwater (via a Kaercher) on my cars. That's soft. Wash with microfibre mitt. Finish with spray wax.

I do occasionally hit them with a gay bar and totally-like-random? orbital and some carnuaba wax every few years.

With the mileage I do, I don't need to wash them very often, though.

The S2000 is by far the worst - never buy a black car, unless you're a sucker for aggro...and I CBA as I'd rather drive than clean.

[goldnsx]

I think I'll give it a try with the snow foam lance. Having watched some videos the results look promissing. Thick, glue-like foam looks cool but raises the question what mess it leaves on the ground...before the neighbors call the 'environment police'. :) For those using one: is there an ideal mixture?

Black cars only shine in the showroom. Never ever again. :) I've quite good results with a final coat of Zaino Z-6 as it is antistatic (not just a marketing phrase, it really works), less dust on the car, even a red one. But it doesn't work with Carnauba. You have to switch to their full line.

I've used Carnauba waxes for many years with excellent results (deep and wet Concours shine!) but they were not lasting very long even the one of the top end (pricey ones). After two car washes it seemed in the need of another coat. Maybe thing changed in the meanwhile. This and the time-consuming effort of applying it took me to synthetic products. Zaino is now my favorite for the last 10 years or so.

[Pride]

Here's a couple of finishing polishes to consider::)

http://most-expensive.com/car-wax

[britlude]

**cough** **splutter**

WOAH JUST ONE COTTON PICKING MINUTE

JUST STOP RIGHT THERE ......

REWIND A BIT...........



YOU WHAT?????



I do occasionally hit them with a gay bar and totally-like-random? orbital and some carnuaba wax every few years.


i was going to embed this vid, but thought better of it.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTN6Du3MCgI

[NZNick]

^ Clay, perhaps?

[havoc]

I've been recommended Collinite 476 as a good, durable carnuba-based wax - a friend used it after detailing my NSX and it seemed to last a decent amount of time. I use their easier-to-deal-with 845 with fair results, but I'm an amateur at this...

I've also been told Meguiars NXT is a good detergent for use in hard-water areas, possibly a little agressive on waxes (unless you dose precisely) with soft water.

Finally, the snow-foams are mainly if you've a very dirty car that NEEDS a pre-wash to loosen up the crud. Otherwise just keep it waxed and hose-off with a jet-wash on a low-ish pressure...

[Nick Graves]

I sing that Electric Six song whilst cleaning the paint with the gay bar; it amuses me and stops the neighbours talking at me, strangely.

I use Collinite 915, which is as hard as nails and difficult to apply - need to apply by hand, literally; the warmth helps to soften it.

But topped-up with the spray, it lasts and lasts.

Anyway, since Botophucket kicked it you'll have to imagine the results, unless someone has saved a page.

[Nick Graves]

Oh, I remember:

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[goldnsx]

This remembers me of my time with Carnauba waxes where I used to heat the wax and panels with a hair drier before applying it. What a mess!

[The King]

Been using Collinite 476 for several years now. Fairly easy to use and lasts for months. In between applications I use Optimum spray wax. It's the best spray wax I've come across. It also lasts very well and, you don't have to worry about getting it on black plastic.

[Nick Graves]

I use Pinnacle Crystal Mist - have you compared the two, out of interest?

Car as pictured hasn't been 'properly' waxed for more than a year.

[dcnsx]

Turtle wax, can’t beat it! :D

[The King]

I use Pinnacle Crystal Mist - have you compared the two, out of interest?

Car as pictured hasn't been 'properly' waxed for more than a year.

I have been meaning to try the Pinnacle Crystal Mist. It is often out of stock at the vendors I use, or quite a bit more money than the Optimum. I expect it is an excellent product also.

[Pride]

Turtle wax, can’t beat it! :D

You may joke about this legendary brand but some top detailers still recommend and use it: 😂


http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/turtle-wax-polishing-compound.html

And still it keeps winning awards ahead of the Collinite polish:😂

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/36249/wax-and-polish-test

[dcnsx]

Im not joking, i’ve usually got a bottle on the shelf.

[Nick Graves]

I have been meaning to try the Pinnacle Crystal Mist. It is often out of stock at the vendors I use, or quite a bit more money than the Optimum. I expect it is an excellent product also.

I suppose it ought to be, for the price!

I've recently tried some DP spray, but it's more 'watery' and not as good as Minnacle Pystle Crist.

[goldnsx]

I've found some time (5 hours in total) to clean the front bay, inspired by the professional detailers (but still some hidden spots can be seen, very hard to clean...). It looks better in the front bay now than the whole car on the outside which will be taken care of during the next dry day. :) Not bad for a 200k km car. Dangerous too because people might think the car has been repainted after a front crash.

As it really shines now, the labels are disturbing somehow. Not that I'd like to remove them but some of them tend to bubble/peel off esp. their clear layer. I'm pretty sure you can't order them anyore. Any hint?

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[NSXGB]

As it really shines now, the labels are disturbing somehow. Not that I'd like to remove them but some of them tend to bubble/peel off esp. their clear layer. I'm pretty sure you can't order them anyore. Any hint?



You can still get most of the labels, I have refreshed most of mine this year. My engine bay sticker to the right of the coolant tank was only available in white (originally yellow). The labels and residual adhesive was very easy to remove.

[goldnsx]

Thanks for the hint. My labels are in English, German and a third language. What languages are yours?

[NSXGB]

Mine are all English.

[lotusolly]

Great job. What products did you use to get that finish?

[goldnsx]

Thanks, I've used Zaino AIO (not as abrasive as expected) and for the areas which were harder to polish another combo product (polish/wax) from my car painter but don't know its name/make. The professionals have stuff you can't buy in your local store for some reason. Someone told me the pro stuff is not sold to end-customers because it can go wrong if not done right (maybe too abrasive?).

I went to the car washing station and gave it a first precleaning with warm pressurized water and whatever washing soap they had in it. Then I've used a highly concentrated car shampoo and a paint brush to clean all areas (takes the most time...). For the plastic parts I've used a pretty standard refresher. For the rubber parts I've used a simple silicon spray. Microfiber towels are very helpful tools.

After all it's a combination of time, patience and the right tools. :)

I've washed to engine bay at the same time but with a dedicated degreaser instead of car shampoo to remove oil stains. I hope to finish the engine bay tomorrow...to be continued....
From this video/guy (self-named but truly 'Guru') I've learned the most, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wP1s10-QUTo
I didn't use the snow foam gun because I'm still waiting for it from China to arrive...

[goldnsx]

On we go with the rear. I've to admit that I've done this procedure maybe 10 years ago, so it was shorter this time...

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I'll have to do the valve adjustment over the winter and think about repainting the valve covers. White cermic paste is good but NOT removable when dried out...

[NSXGB]

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/car-care-blog/paintwork-correction/honda-nsx/?utm_source=UF+Newsletter+Subscribers&utm_campaign=8c16737085-Nov+One+2017+-+Clearance+%2B+Honda+NSX+Pt+1&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_1b3f443310-8c16737085-60221897

[goldnsx]

Finished, both car and owner. A little bit cloudy for photoshooting. I'm pretty sure I don't dare to drive it next spring...
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[dcnsx]

Your car looks fantastic, good effort! Be a shame to get it dirty now

[goldnsx]

Thanks very much! I guess it needed something like 25-30 hours but the interior has still to be cleaned... For the next 4-5 months the car will be in a dry but cold garage. Even covered it might collect a little bit of dust but that will be removed very quickly after the first rinse with water next spring.

Time to do some maintenance...valve adjustment, fresh coolant etc. The TB/WP has been postponed to summer 2018 as it's too cold to work below 10 deg. C.

[havoc]

VERY nice...

[Nick Graves]

Scrubs up well, doesn't it?

[goldnsx]

Repainted valve covers. The old paint hasn't been stripped before repainting as it was still ok, just two coats of Dupli Color heat paint 800 deg. C to cover the stains which couldn't be removed (burnt-in ceramic paste).
I've found the covering pieces in the furniture department of my DIY store: round white/black pieces which you normally glue on the ends of a chair/table to not scratch the floor. 5 bucks for different sizes and a lot of time-savings...:)

I've thought about RED valve covers and Dupli Color RED 500 deg. C is said to be a good match but not the same as the Type R. I couldn't justify 300-400 bucks for them...

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[NSXGB]

Reviving an old post.
I'm looking for tips on glass cleaning, more inside than out. I can never seem to get a smear free finish. Any product recommendations?

[Pride]

Reviving an old post.
I'm looking for tips on glass cleaning, more inside than out. I can never seem to get a smear free finish. Any product recommendations?

Take it to a detailer to just clean the glass, I did and it’s now perfect, didn’t cost a lot to do, I waited while they did it, it took about 2hrs inside and out and I took a note of the product they used.

[The King]

Two hours??!! And I thought some of the detailers we had at the dealership were slow.:(

[Pride]

Two hours??!! And I thought some of the detailers we had at the dealership were slow.:(

Lol, Seriously though, one particular detailer I know who self pro-claims to be the “world’s most detailed detailer” and takes a minimum 8hrs on just your glass.

[Papalazarou]

Mines now sorn and ready for a Autumn/winter of even more cleaning and, well cleaning. I meant to get it up for sale last spring, but missed the window of opportunity for a handful of reasons. So withrew the advert after a couple of weeks.
Anyway, I’m looking forward to a few fun projects over the next 4-5 months. Then hopefully, finally get it up for sale in April.
On the bright side, the longer I leave it the better it gets.
The dry ice clean last year has given me a fantastic base for getting the underneath perfect, or close to. I’d considered concours but realistically I’d have to take the whole car apart. And as tempting as it is, just no. I don’t think most people really understand what a retentive world of hell that is.
Anyway, another year and another 500 miles. Next year, fingers crossed, that will change.

[Nick Graves]

I use DP Krystal Vision & a microfibre window cloth, well, a damp one and a buffing one.

Best to do it in bright sunshine, so it flashes off quicker & you can see the smears you've just made & repeat the process.

I believe it's the VOCs from the heater ducting that cause that grey film - new Hondas are terrible for it, but the effect decreases as they age. Of course, a hot engine causes it too, on the engine bay side of things.

The trick seems to be to hit it regularly. Once it builds up, you just move it around.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

This is what I have been doing for…. wait, nearly 40 years!?
Feels like getting old….

While the items in use changed over the time, the procedure stayed pretty much the same.

While it's safe on NSX and most likely for other classic cars, please check the owner's manual especially for the modern cars as the glass may have special coating or pre-caution, etc.

Always deal with the water based dirt first and not from the oil based one.
Otherwise, you won't get good result.

You can also use the same process for the window glasses around the house.


The main cause of the glass dirt inside the cabin is the humidity absorbing the dirt and eventually baking it to the internal glass surface once dried out.

The dirt is brought into the cabin when you open the door, debris on your shoes, cloth, climate control in fresh mode, driving with window/roof opened, etc.
These are what I call the water based dirt.

The other main cause is the oil based ones.
The tiny oil like molecules float inside the cabin brought in by exh gas, road film, takeaway food, eating/drinking inside the cabin, smoking, etc.


Ideally, you want to keep the A/C On throughout the year and regularly use the re-circ mode although may not be possible for some.

I would prefer keeping the climate control in re-circ but after refreshing the blower motor fan and the heater unit, the cabin just gets too dry.
It irritates my eye as it's so dry that nowadays, I switch between re-circ and fresh whenever my eye starts feeling too dry.


When you clean/treat the leather or cabin plastic, rubber, etc, you could accidentally transfer the chemical or touch the glass.
If it contains any silicone, water won't remove it.


The following process may look time consuming and complicated but once you try it, it's easy.

You'll get used to it and for anyone saw my NSX at the event, you'll know that I'm happy with the result.


Items:
Soft water but ideally distilled water in UK.
Several microfibre cloths.
IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol), I dilute it to about 70%.


1. Water based dirt - initial cleaning
In Japan, I was happy using the tap water as it was soft and not much mineral left in it.
In UK, I live in very hard water area and thus, don't even use tap water for washing the car.
I have water softener but prefers the distilled water for cleaning the glass.

Always start dealing with the water based dirt first.
Never start with the oil one.
You will dissolve the oil dirt and mix it with the water based layer/film that you have actually introduced even worse condition.
You won't be able to lift this type of dirt using the distilled water.

Soak the micorfibre cloth with the distilled water.
The ideal dampness is not too wet but not too dry.
Just practice few times to get the ideal dampness.

What you want is, after wiping the glass (one glass at a time), you want to see some moisture left at the surface that won't dry out before wiping it off at the next stage.

Once you got the ideal dampness, wipe/clean one glass only followed by stage #2 immediately.


2. Water based dirt - drying/polishing
While the moisture left on the glass, use another dry microfibre cloth to wipe it off.

The image is removing/polishing the moisture containing the water based dirt lifted from the glass surface.

Repeat the set of stage #1 & #2 for one glass section at a time.

After going through this set (#1 & #2) of cleaning session on all glass area, they should be already fairly clean.


3. Oil based dirt - dissolving
I normally carry out the set of stage #1 & #2 every time when I wash the car.
Then, for the following process #3, I would just do it when I feel like the glass need it.
Probably about every 5 washes but I do wash my car fairly regularly as it's my everyday car but not covering many miles these days.

Be careful with the IPA even in diluted formula.
It's flammable.
Do not use IPA in spray bottle while inside the cabin.
You could cause serious problem to your nose, throat, body, eyes.
Wear gloves to protect your skin.
IPA may cause allergic reaction with repeated contact.

I use a lot of IPA while working on the circuit board but also during this pandemic.

From the point of not mixing the oil dirt into the water based one, you could use almost pure IPA without diluting it but I found it evaporates too fast hence 70%.
70 -80% should be good.

The idea is to break the oil film and lift it from the glass surface with the wiping motion.
Microfibre is great for this.
If your glass had lots of oil deposits on the surface, you should replace the cloth with the new one before moving to the next glass.
Otherwise, you will just transfer the dirt to different area of the glass.

It will dry out while you are wiping the glass but that's fine because you are lifting the oil based dirt while wiping, unlike the stage #1.

Re-apply IPA as required.

Once wiped the one glass area, get another fresh microfibre cloth and this time, wipe it in a way to polish the glass surface.

Now your glass should be really clean and free from any smear markings.

Because the glass surface is now so fresh, some people prefers to apply some sort of coating afterwards but I don't know good product.
I just leave it as is.
I clean the glass with distilled water regularly anyway.


Kaz

[NSXGB]

Awesome, thanks for the replies!

[Senninha]

I can see a project for you James … get some paint on the floor of the garage and cut down the risk of dust/debri getting under that cover :)

[Papalazarou]

I can see a project for you James … get some paint on the floor of the garage and cut down the risk of dust/debri getting under that cover :)

I know. Things I wish I’d done. To be honest it was just nice to have a garage after three years! However, if you’d like to bring some paint down, That would be good!

[Nick Graves]

Bit of a waste of time unless your floor is perfect.

I used some of these in the end:

https://duramat.co.uk/category/garage-floor-tiles/

They do heat expand/contract & ruche up a bit, TBH. And that's despite a generous expansion gap.

[Papalazarou]

Bit of a waste of time unless your floor is perfect.

I used some of these in the end:

https://duramat.co.uk/category/garage-floor-tiles/

They do heat expand/contract & ruche up a bit, TBH. And that's despite a generous expansion gap.

They look good. Did you glue them down?

[Nick Graves]

I probably should have - they'd be less inclined to walk.

Having to drive the cars in at an angle probably contributes due to scrub.

Tough and nicer to walk on than concrete and one can slide around when having one of those lie downs under a car...

[Senninha]

Ive toyed with the idea of those tiles, however I do wonder how they cope with trolley jacks and car stands … any experience NIck?

Ref the paint, I had the floor screeded over the base concrete to give a truly hard and flat surface … paint has been down over a decade now and only recently have a noticed a couple of small areas showing wear … for both stages I left it a good few weeks before using.

[Nick Graves]

Fine so far. Cannot swear that I've tried the front end of the Leg End, yet...only the lightweights and I swear the NSX is made of helium.

But then I always put a sheet of cardboard (usually a bit of Laithwaite's wine box) under the jack to prevent wheel cut and so I can slide it around, since it's never a straight lift. Also stops it digging into the tarmac as I tend to use the roadway for tyre changes, etc.

Axle stands have much lower point-loading than a trolley anyway. Especially since they're normally in pairs/fours.