Impact Wrench - Recommendations

[wixer]

I'm about to buy an impact driver, mainy to remove the driveshaft nuts, as a 1m breaker bar & brute force, isn't working. Does anyone use one on a regular basis & could make a recommendation on specification (max torque etc.) before I take the plunge ? I would be looking at a Bosch ideally, so I can use the battery from my drill.

Thanks in advance.

[britlude]

I have a ryobi one (American sourced as its got a higher max torque)... A very useful tool to have for disassembly...

[Old guy]

If you are looking for maximum grunt as opposed to something that just speeds up spinning nuts on and off, I suggest that you shop by drive size and the weight of the tool. If a 1m breaker bar isn't doing the trick for you, restrict your shopping to impact drives that come with 3/4" drives and weigh a lot. Impact drivers / wrenches work by spinning a big ass chunk of steel (effectively a flywheel) which moves back and forth every turn to apply a hammer effect to the drive bit. That weight banging back and forth is what makes that bang, bang, bang noise when you use one. The bigger that chunk of rotating steel, the greater the stored energy and the bigger the whack when it hammers forward on the bit. Whether its driven by compressed air, 120/240 VAC or a battery, weight is your friend.

If you don't want to fork over the admittedly sizeable cash for an impact driver with maximum grunt, I suggest a 3/4 " breaker bar with a couple meters of 1 1/4" ID pipe as an adjustable extension. I have a big air compressor; but, a rather light (probably 3 kg) 1/2" drive air impact wrench. Suitable for removing lug nuts; but, not up to the task of dealing with big rusty / crusty bolts.

[duncan]

As an alternative a lever type impact bar Sealey VS786, photos and notes see an earlier post by myself
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?15599-Major-Service

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

As you experienced, battery is one of the main deciding factor.

Once you started using a specific make, people tends to stick with it as not only the battery but also the charger could be bit pricey.

Depending on the model/spec, Bosch has advantage in interchangeable battery design with other manufactures.

I use Milwaukee and DeWalt but again, it's more to do with the battery spec.
Same for the gardening tools.
I use Stihl simply because I started with them and can use the same battery for the multiple tools.

Every year or even few months, there will be small improvements on these battery powered tools so if buying new, just get whatever the size and the torque spec meets your demand.

Haven't checked the price recently but several years ago, it was cheaper to buy the shell only plus even the charger (note the possible voltage and of course the plug spec difference) in US and just buy the battery in UK.

As Old guy mentioned, the size/weight to be considered as it may limit the benefit if thinking of using it in tight space.


For 36mm, it may not be a problem but for smaller ones like 19mm crank pulley bolt, invest in the counterweight socket.

Increases the inertia to have better chance of loosening the seized bolt.


High torque battery operated impact is not cheap but if you are likely to use it regularly, good investment.

However, if you are only going to use it occasionally, like once a year, then you may better off taking your NSX to the HGV tyre place or the likes.

They will have sub-tank assisted powerful impact so just ask them to loosen your spindle nut while you wait.

Apply grease, re-torque the nut and drive back.

You can invest the money in other things or for lower torque spec impact wrench.

Still, I keep the air impact gun for the fuel filter area.


Kaz

[wixer]

Thanks for the advice/recommendations guys. I've followed what you've said & gone for a decent weighted wrench (3kg) & I'm happy to say it tackled the drive shaft nuts with ease. It only took 30 seconds to undo both nuts & the most stubborn took 20 secs.

This is the one I went for, mainly due to the fact I have two other Bosch 18v units, so I only needed the wrench. Torque spec is 650NM. It'll be interesting to see how it deals with less stubborn nuts & bolts.

14317

14318

[goldtop]

Can I hijack with an extra question: is an impact driver likely to help with rusted on nuts/bolts? In the 10-12-14mm range?

I've encountered a few recalcitrant b*gg*rs on my engine+trans and I am trying not to round them off with the breaker bar.

Next step is to buy some Plusgas (because the Halford's Release stuff doesn't seem to make a difference) and or a little blow-lamp!

[wixer]

Can I hijack with an extra question: is an impact driver likely to help with rusted on nuts/bolts? In the 10-12-14mm range?

I've encountered a few recalcitrant b*gg*rs on my engine+trans and I am trying not to round them off with the breaker bar.

Next step is to buy some Plusgas (because the Halford's Release stuff doesn't seem to make a difference) and or a little blow-lamp!

I bought one of these a few years ago, for rusted nuts & bolts, very effective.

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?14412-Bought-one-of-these&highlight=mini+ductor

[goldtop]

Oooh - that definitely appeals to my inner gadget-freak. I watched your video - very persuasive. Bit spendy ... must think ...

[duncan]

To complete the set I’d add the following
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172529834424?hash=item282b9459b8:g:l94AAOSwymxVLCe g
- it’s an impact screwdriver, it’s JIS sized and it works

[Old guy]

To complete the set I’d add the following
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172529834424?hash=item282b9459b8:g:l94AAOSwymxVLCe g
- it’s an impact screwdriver, it’s JIS sized and it works

I have one of those Vessel impact drivers from 1970. Chrome steel and came in a little gold colored meatal case with a selection of 6 bits. Required tool for any one with a Japanese motorcycle built prior to the late '70s before they started switching from Phillips head to hexagonal head machine screws for the engine cases. Why anybody ever thought Phillips head screws were a good idea is beyond me. Still remains a useful tool. Hot ticket for getting out those silly retaining screws that they use on the wheel hubs.

[Old guy]

Oooh - that definitely appeals to my inner gadget-freak. I watched your video - very persuasive. Bit spendy ... must think ...

There are lower cost options if you search around.

SOLARY H7E Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W 110V For Automotive Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW Hand Tool, Heat Guns - Amazon Canada (https://www.amazon.ca/SOLARY-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B086BQJD85/ref=asc_df_B086BQJD85/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335305972750&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10081287633610499854&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001252&hvtargid=pla-907471609094&psc=1)

About 140 pounds sterling - before shipping. You would have to deal with the 110 volt supply problem; but, if you search for induction heating tool for removing bolts you may find an EBay equivalent in GB that operates at 230 volts..

[goldtop]

There are lower cost options if you search around.

SOLARY H7E Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W 110V For Automotive Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW Hand Tool, Heat Guns - Amazon Canada (https://www.amazon.ca/SOLARY-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B086BQJD85/ref=asc_df_B086BQJD85/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335305972750&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10081287633610499854&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001252&hvtargid=pla-907471609094&psc=1)

About 140 pounds sterling - before shipping. You would have to deal with the 110 volt supply problem; but, if you search for induction heating tool for removing bolts you may find an EBay equivalent in GB that operates at 230 volts..

Thanks. Yes, that's a possibility, because I already have a step-down transformer for the day job. We also use 110V as the UK's standard for power tools on construction sites, so high-VA transformers are very easy to find.

Today's finding - Plusgas (harder to get here than the USA, it seems). But...

Yesterday's finding - three bolts fixing the rear exhaust heatshield where the head have corroded away to a sort of dome/cone shape. Nothing for a spanner or socket to grip! :rolleyes:

(It's two steps forward, one step back stripping this engine!)

[goldtop]

Ordered the JIS impact screwdriver mentioned above. (After trawling through Halfords and other shops and finding no JIS drivers at all).

I did a quick test on one of the screws holding the brake disks to the hub, and that definitely cams out with a Philips.

[goldtop]

The JIS screwdriver arrived today (very speed service).

It says "PH2x100" on the label, and "P.2x100" on the handle. I didn't expect any mention of 'PH' if this is a JIS standard, though. (insert chin-scratching smiley here)

I'll try it on the brake disk screw later...

ETA: it's this one - https://vessel.co.jp/userfiles/handtools/980_fl_E.pdf