Air conditioning diagrams

[m666 edd]

I'm being lazy, but if I'm not lazy I never post on forums!

Does anyone have diagrams of the air-conditioning system for a RHD NSX? I'm about to get it sorted with a leak test and replacement seals by someone qualified - Just thought it would help. If LHD is pretty much the same I'll just dig those out.

Cheers.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Pretty much the same because the system architecture is the same.

For both the RHD and the LHD, the compressor is mounted on the right forward section of the engine block,
the discharge (high sdie) pipe runs at the centre of the floor channel,
enters the right condenser first followed by the left one,
then filtered at the drier/receiver just in front of the radiator.

Then, there are some differences between the RHD and the LHD but should not really matter for leak testing or replacing the o-ring.

The triple pressure SW is at the right side (left for the LHD), the evaporator is sided
(as well as the heater core but not related to the a/c refrigerant system) so slight offset for the in/out port position.

Then, the suction (low side) pipe runs at the centre floor channel and back to the compressor.

Unless replacing the evaporator, for the A/C specialist, should be enough with the HVAC section of the Acura LHD workshop manual on the NSX Prime.
Most likely, for the torque spec of the fitting/bolt/nut.

If your NSX left the factory with R12 and converted to R134a, just get the correct amount for the refrigerant.
Min 800g, absolute max 850g, don't overcharge or your evaporator may puncture....

Fairly long but if you read through the A/C Refresh process, some of the photos may help.
Starting from this one; http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1836-AC-Refresh-01


Kaz

[m666 edd]

Thanks for the info Kaz. I wonder if the evaporator could be punctured. The person I last had regas it didn't seem to know how much to put in. After this regas I don't think it lasted even a week.

[m666 edd]

Happy new year Kaz and all.

The A/C system seems to be in better condition than I thought. No really bad leak, it appears previously one of the valves was not tightened up sufficiently after the refill.

However there is a leak from around the front of the engine bay bulkhead going by where it is leaking beneath the car.

Is it likely to be from this joint highlighted in red? Although the leak appears to be more towards the right hand side of the car.
Is there a joint where no. (1) points to the suction and discharge piping?

Thanks
14463

[britlude]

There should be a join there somewhere as it goes from hard-line to flexy to get to the AC pump.... What is leaking underneath? UV fluorescent oil?

[m666 edd]

Yes. It's greenish yellow.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVtc1urKykYfLj49clZDzyEzKLNb4Ntf_6OaU0c4vt7KgM7r dJFRGt72-3BQbAkNrmptk7wf4rbF8irOxnM5BQHSjWAlTtX81onc020x2Q6 oXkv0G5NVZcL1PZuVr4W6GRBKu1Zbx7J8Ajidwv3I86yPA=w10 80-h608-no?authuser=0

Hi, m666 edd.
Happy New Year.

There is no joint/fitting at the red marked section of your diagram.
Just a metal bracket holding the /c pipes, battery posi cable.

As britlude mentioned, at #1, there is a joint between the metal pipe and the flex hose for the charge/discharge line.
It's located at the right side of the fuel tank.

If the leaking fluid is greenish yellow, it is the compressor oil with the leak detector.
Not good.

However, it's very unusual to see such amount of leakage within short period unless the nut was not tightened properly.

It could be the residue of the compressor oil/leak detector that were not cleaned during the process of replacing the o-rings at the fitting.
If such big leakage, you should be able to check it after filling the system with the nitrogen and using the sniffer.

Kaz