unclebob
29-08-2023, 03:25 PM
Hiya Kaz, are these parts the same for the 3.2 alternator as well? do you have the part number for the rectifier and regulator please?
Kaz-kzukNA1
02-09-2023, 11:58 AM
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-V6m9wk-Lw6HeJ29Wmsvml3zTYG6oiK_uODKC_2QVRIjyD1IpQrkiZDSuw jYQ3MTkfh0eqT824dhnHiEiq9tJ_b1KbxVyXL2O1sNlAMZiQeT HOAja6UQCJTr0UVzIB9NseGHBfNRnFLsUCB5Ze7VTGfA=w852-h1080-s-no?authuser=0
Hi, unclebob.
Moved your post here and created new thread.
OEM alternator has 2 different spec.
110A vs 120A.
Changeover happened around 1995 but please do check the model #.
CLG18 is the 120A spec.
The difference between the two OEM ones are the rotor and the regulator.
However, in May/05, you started a thread stating that your alternator was dead and looking for the replacement.
Therefore, not sure you are referring to the OEM or the aftermarket one.
Please provide the detail on the latest issue you are experiencing.
Did you repair your OEM alternator and now having another issue or did you get aftermarket one but now it failed?
Denso alternator is very robust.
Unless it seized and cracked the housing, the rotor, slip ring, etc would survive for years/miles.
Very rare for the regulator to fail unless you cooked the alternator body with poor battery condition.
The diodes at the rectifier can fail if your battery was in poor condition.
The two bearings can start making noise but can be replaced with the help of miniature puller.
Brush housing can survive well over 100K miles, it’s cheap and easily replaced.
The OEM rectifier is no longer available from Honda but should be able to source through Denso stores in Japan.
You can also find lots of aftermarket ones on the web.
May not survive as much as the OEM one but at such low price, just get two and keep one as a spare.
Can be replaced with ease.
If you still have the OEM alternator, happy to overhaul it as long as the housing is not cracked.
Kaz
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