The oil thread

[AR]

After 5 months and 500 miles later, and I feel is time for an oil change.

Unable to find 10W-30 I am curious and would appreciate if as many as possible will answer the following questions:

What do you use in your car?

Why?

How long between changes?

What filter do you use?

Cheers,

AR

[Lankstarr]

Hi Ary,

I use Castrol GTX Magnatec 10W40. Norton Way put this in when I had the car serviced and my mate who runs his own Honda tuning business refers to it as "liquid gold"... he says he would never use any other oil!

Dunno what filter I use ... thought a filter was a filter;)

L*

[AR]

That is what they put on mine, but I am curious as to why we can't get 10W-30 here, after all is what Honda tells us to use in the manual.

Cheers,

AR

[simonprelude]

After a recomendation from Oilman I use Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 Race.

Seems very good and saves a lot on servicing when you supply your own oil.

[Papalazarou]

After 5 months and 500 miles later, and I feel is time for an oil change.

Unable to find 10W-30 I am curious and would appreciate if as many as possible will answer the following questions:

What do you use in your car?

Why?

How long between changes?

What filter do you use?

Cheers,

AR


Ary,

I think that 500 miles is way too early to change the oil. It will be ok for at least 6K or 12 months, although 9 months would be better compromise.
If you want to be over cautious , you could do what my uncle used to do with his early Cosworth and change every 3K, but that was because it was a turbo car pushing high boost and everything was getting extremely hot. However, that car is now over 20 years old done 120K miles and on the original turbo!

Cheers,

James.

[NSXGB]

I have always used Mobil One 0w40 and the standard filter...that's what it's always been filled with.
Might try the Magnatec next if it comes highly recommended and save a fortune. :)

[TheQuietOne]

Hi All,

I use the same stuff as Luke, but on my 63,000 mile service, I had done the week before last at Norton way, I supplied my own oil filter (Honda OEM from DTA) and oil, GTX 10/40, I was quoted £215 all in, but when I came to paying because I had supplied my own oil (£20) and filter (£9) I was only charged £109 inc VAT. Just a little tip for all you penny pinchers out there like me running one of this beauties on a budget...

TQO.


Hi Ary,

I use Castrol GTX Magnatec 10W40. Norton Way put this in when I had the car serviced and my mate who runs his own Honda tuning business refers to it as "liquid gold"... he says he would never use any other oil!

Dunno what filter I use ... thought a filter was a filter;)

L*

[CrazyMixedUpKid]

AR - interesting you say your handbook says 10W30 ? Mine ('97 though) says 10W40 ...

... over the years I've had nearly every different grade of oil "recommended" to me by different NSX dealerships (Chiswick / John Cooper (what was) / Guy Salmon (what was)) - all different and none of which I might add was the 10W 40 my owners book recommends - and of course having paid through the nose for each - I have for several years now supplied my own oil for servicing - 10W 40 GTX Magnatec all the way. OEM filter always.

[AR]

Well both my Japnese NSX-R manual, an english one from 1993 and one from 1998 all say 10W-30.

Anyone else whos manual says 10W-40?

Cheers,

AR

[AR]

Just to add that last time I had it serviced they use 10W-40 and said that it is what is recommended!

[Papalazarou]

It's a lot of reading kids but you may just find your answer buried here.


http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69342&highlight=oil+grade

Cheers,


James.

[CrazyMixedUpKid]

well - just to add to the confusion - I must admit - I'm a complete idiot ...
just checked my book - 10W 30 - DOH! ... been putting 10W 40 in for so long I've brainwashed myself!

I remember the dealers recommending fully synthetic 0W / 5W this and that at the time ... it was a kindly and learned NSX technician at John Coopers (who'd been working on them since launch) that took me to one side and said "you want to be putting 10W 40 in that" ...

apologies for confusion!

[reg]

It's a lot of reading kids but you may just find your answer buried here.


http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69342&highlight=oil+grade

Cheers,


James.

That's a chunk of reading and opinions!

I was speaking to Norton Way Honda last week and I asked them what I should buy to top up the car with. It had been serviced by them and they said that they use Castrol SLX (0W-30). SO off to Castrol's website and...

http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1

No information. On an Indoneasian site its comes up with this...

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=8118005&contentId=6006986

Applications
Castrol Formula SLX is recommended for all modern gasoline and diesel sports and family cars where the best in efficiency and engine protection is demanded.

'Diesel sports' are they serious. Have any of you had experience with this oil? All the evidence points to 10W-30 or 10W-40

The NSX isn't coming up on many oil site searches. Confused.

[AR]

I think I will stick with 10W-40 and find the best synthetic.

I was going to go with amsoil, but the prospect of shipping and storage etc, is more than the savings one would get.

Cheers,

AR

[madras]

That's a chunk of reading and opinions!

I was speaking to Norton Way Honda last week and I asked them what I should buy to top up the car with. It had been serviced by them and they said that they use Castrol SLX (0W-30). SO off to Castrol's website and...

http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1

No information. On an Indoneasian site its comes up with this...

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=8118005&contentId=6006986

Applications
Castrol Formula SLX is recommended for all modern gasoline and diesel sports and family cars where the best in efficiency and engine protection is demanded.

'Diesel sports' are they serious. Have any of you had experience with this oil? All the evidence points to 10W-30 or 10W-40

The NSX isn't coming up on many oil site searches. Confused.

Honda Chiswick recommended this: Castrol SLX Longtec 0W30, now replaced with Castrol EDGE http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9014073&contentId=7027066

[NoelWatson]

I think I will stick with 10W-40 and find the best synthetic.

I was going to go with amsoil, but the prospect of shipping and storage etc, is more than the savings one would get.

Cheers,

AR

Not sure if it is worth looking at this

http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/petrol_engine_oil.html

[mutley]

Honda Chiswick recommended this: Castrol SLX Longtec 0W30, now replaced with Castrol EDGE "http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004867&contentId=7008887 (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004867&contentId=7008887)"http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004867&contentId=7008887 (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004867&contentId=7008887)


Castrol Edge (0w-30) would be useful, as that's the stuff I put in my BM. If it's [one of)] the best for the NSX, then I could same some cash by buying bulk for both cars.

Jim

[TheSebringOne]

Mutley I can concure on the Castrol SLX long life 0W30 as its same for my old 225 TT, think it only needs change after 15K ! Good stuff, but dear! :D

Crazymixupkid. So the 10W40 is Magnatec semi synthetic or full synthetic? I used to use it in my old Prelude ! Funny we are on this subject since I only do 1000 miles a year in the X !, got 2 Mobil ones and not used it at all since last oil change, but think If I up the mileage, might get dealer to use it to save a few quid at it's next change as dear/good stuff! ;)

[mutley]

[QUOTE=TheSebringOne]Mutley I can concure on the Castrol SLX long life 0W30 as its same for my old 225 TT, think it only needs change after 15K ! Good stuff, but dear! :D [QUOTE]


Aye true enough, I think Halfruads charge £42.99 for a 4 ltr bottle, (Although my mate has a trade card so not bad discount)


Jim

[Kevin]

As descibed in Opie Oilman's description about oil. There's synthetic and there's synthetic.

The original synthetics were made in a lab from ester base stocks. Then they started making oil by chemically changing the oil dug out of the ground. This was becuase the ester based oil is more expensive, but superior, to the modified dino oil.

So, from what I know, Mobil 1, Shell Helix, Castrol and any oil that costs roughly £25 for 4-5 litres, are modified dino oils.The ester based oils are the Amsoil's, Redline, Silkolene oils, which are noticeably more expensive.

[oilman]

An interesting discussion this but the quality of some of the oils discussed here worry me.

The NSX is a great car and a performance car, it deserves far better than the likes of basic GTX even if changed frequently.

Where to start is difficult as I am bound to upset someone who thinks that any oil will do but it's simply not the case and certainly I would caution against the use of cheap mineral oils if the car is modded, tracked or even driven hard!

So to start with the cheapo oil changed more frequently......

Cheaper oils are in the long run a false economy, In the first mile the higher volatility, inferior anti-wear performance and poor temperature resistance of a cheap grade of oil will start to show.

Obviously, there will be no immediate effects. The whole point of top quality oil is long-term performance retention, which is particularly valuable to people who actually own the car they drive. The ‘performance’ enthusiast will want to retain the new-spec BHP figures, and the cost-conscious will want to see good fuel economy with 100,000 on the clock.

Cheap oil, (particularly 10W/40 or thinner) evaporates quickly, and the vapour is drawn into the combustion chambers via the crankcase ventilation system. This means calcium and zinc oxide deposits (from oil additives) which will cause pre-ignition, so the knock sensor retards the ignition, giving less power and poor fuel economy. The deposits also contaminate the exhaust catalyst, leading to high emissions and MOT failure.

In most cases synthetic oils (proper ones that is) are the way to go if you intend to keep the car or the car is special or used hard.

This does not necessarily mean to use the most expensive synthetics unless of course they are warranted or you want the best but it does mean avoid semi-synthetics, part-synthetics, synthetic blends and mineral oil as they are just not of the quality for a high performance car.

In most cases a decent 5w-40 synthetic (either petroleum based or a proper synthetic) would be ideal although the better ones are more important as you move up the mods scale or take the car offroad.

So ok, I will be accused of peddling synthetics...............

I sell and recommend all types of oils from Mineral Monogrades to F1 race synthetics but each car is different.

Recommending an oil for a 15 year old Corsa is completely different to the requirements of a Honda NSX, I know which one I would prefer to own!

Cheers
Simon

[madras]

An interesting discussion this but the quality of some of the oils discussed here worry me.

The NSX is a great car and a performance car, it deserves far better than the likes of basic GTX even if changed frequently.

Where to start is difficult as I am bound to upset someone who thinks that any oil will do but it's simply not the case and certainly I would caution against the use of cheap mineral oils if the car is modded, tracked or even driven hard!

So to start with the cheapo oil changed more frequently......

Cheaper oils are in the long run a false economy, In the first mile the higher volatility, inferior anti-wear performance and poor temperature resistance of a cheap grade of oil will start to show.

Obviously, there will be no immediate effects. The whole point of top quality oil is long-term performance retention, which is particularly valuable to people who actually own the car they drive. The ‘performance’ enthusiast will want to retain the new-spec BHP figures, and the cost-conscious will want to see good fuel economy with 100,000 on the clock.

Cheap oil, (particularly 10W/40 or thinner) evaporates quickly, and the vapour is drawn into the combustion chambers via the crankcase ventilation system. This means calcium and zinc oxide deposits (from oil additives) which will cause pre-ignition, so the knock sensor retards the ignition, giving less power and poor fuel economy. The deposits also contaminate the exhaust catalyst, leading to high emissions and MOT failure.

In most cases synthetic oils (proper ones that is) are the way to go if you intend to keep the car or the car is special or used hard.

This does not necessarily mean to use the most expensive synthetics unless of course they are warranted or you want the best but it does mean avoid semi-synthetics, part-synthetics, synthetic blends and mineral oil as they are just not of the quality for a high performance car.

In most cases a decent 5w-40 synthetic (either petroleum based or a proper synthetic) would be ideal although the better ones are more important as you move up the mods scale or take the car offroad.

So ok, I will be accused of peddling synthetics...............

I sell and recommend all types of oils from Mineral Monogrades to F1 race synthetics but each car is different.

Recommending an oil for a 15 year old Corsa is completely different to the requirements of a Honda NSX, I know which one I would prefer to own!

Cheers
Simon

What do you think of Castrol EDGE 0W30 ?
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9014073&contentId=7027066

[oilman]

It's a good oil for road use which is what it's designed for.

You'll find it and many others (hundreds in fact) here on my website and at a discount for NSX Club Members.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers
Simon

[amo]

well i use shell 5-40
its about £35

thats me

thx amo