View Full Version : Brake upgrade advice
After some thought I am going to be improving the brakes which IMO are not only not upto the performance of the car they are not up to the performance of a Civic. They judder, the peddle has too much travel and the bite is inconsistant.....and breathe.
So. I dont want to go the expense of Type R disks/pads (I am betting they are expensive and may not fit with the 16/17 wheels?) so can I ask here what a good road set-up is?
Proposed Mods.
1. Fit stainless lines
2. Bleed the system (and ABS?)
3. Judder, skim the disks on the short term
4. Find new pads, do Ferodo make the 2500 for the NSX?
5. Find new disks, are stock always poor?
6. Maybe do the deflector mod after #1,2,3,4
I am less than impressed with Honda on this subject. My ITR would destroy my current NSX setup :-?
Get the lines. Make sure you have new quality brake fluid. Ferodo pads are great but your wheels will look dirty all the time, specially if you have sloted discs. Get some deflectors and you are good to go.
Just my experience.
Cheers,
AR
Get the lines. Make sure you have new quality brake fluid. Ferodo pads are great but your wheels will look dirty all the time, specially if you have sloted discs. Get some deflectors and you are good to go.
Just my experience.
Cheers,
AR
Thanks for the reply.
Seriously I am so unhappy with brakes, they are pretty poor. I used EBC on the teg and used them hard (very). I know what the general opinion of EBC is in the market place but IME they have been ok. I work with MotoGP spec Brembo's and they are nice and all that but these are going to be on a road car not stripped every 30 mins! Do you know of anyone running EBC blanks and redstuff?
I don't know if the discs are within tolerance to skim yet, I guess that will determine plan a. I am not a badge snob and will try whatever;)
sportyking
20-01-2007, 11:01 PM
If no air in the system it sounds like your discs and flexible hoses are shot.
The NSX brakes when working properly are perfectly acceptable for "normal" road use so you could just renew the above parts. A full bleed and new fluid would be included.
If you want to go further it is a well documented list of choices depending on the size of your wallet. I do think for aftermarket pads you may be better off looking into Japanese specialist items as they have put much more time and effort into the NSX than the Europeans and Yanks put together. When you look deep the choice is mind boggling.
depending on the size of your wallet.
Agreed.
But I have found in the past that most discs respond pretty well to abrasive pads. These will eat the discs pretty quickly so instead of spending £££ on ultra-carbon blah, blah discs some basic aftermarket discs gripped by some aggresive pads work well. Say the cheap(er) discs last 10K of abuse well thats 2 yrs or so of my mileage.
I just need to find someone who has run EBC blanks with redstuff pads or some pagid's (if there are any for the std caliper) or Ferodo's (whish I know make all sorts of dust but they give great performance.
At thte risk of being labelled as the NSX chav on the forum I am thinking of Blue Dot OEM rears and EBC fronts with the aforementioned kevlar or stainless lines and red/yellow/pagid/hawk/Ferodo pads :rolleyes:
I think Darren runs Black Diamond discs, and so does Ivor. I have Ferodo pads on mine and they are fine, but as I said they do dust.
Cheers,
AR
NSXGB
21-01-2007, 08:21 AM
Thanks for the reply.
Seriously I am so unhappy with brakes, they are pretty poor. I used EBC on the teg and used them hard (very). I know what the general opinion of EBC is in the market place but IME they have been ok. I work with MotoGP spec Brembo's and they are nice and all that but these are going to be on a road car not stripped every 30 mins! Do you know of anyone running EBC blanks and redstuff?
I don't know if the discs are within tolerance to skim yet, I guess that will determine plan a. I am not a badge snob and will try whatever;)
EBC Direct supply the NSX disks. Fronts are about £100 / pair. They are stamped 'BRADI' which, from what I understand, is the same castings that Brembo use.
simonprelude
21-01-2007, 10:43 AM
I have said this before on NSX Prime and on here, the 2 piece slotted rotors from Racing Brake are an excellent component. They are also significantly lighter than stock due to the bell being Aluminium and have the advantage that when it comes to replacement you can just change the rotor.
They are currently on offer directly from Racing Brake
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_s/4425.htm
I am using these with Goodridge stainless hoses, Motul fluid and Type R pads.
If you did want to splash the cash then the whole Type R set up would fit as the brakes are the same size from 1997 onwards. However I think the calipers are only aesthetically different so would not bother changing unless yours are causing problems.
Senninha
21-01-2007, 11:00 AM
Hi Reg,
I'm currently refreshing the brakes on my NSX. My set up will include the NSX-R discs (sourced from Dirk in Germany), braided hoses, Project MU pads and deflectors (all sourced from Dali). For road use it might be argued that the deflectors do not need changing, but seeing as the car is stripped down, I decided to do anyway ....... in lovely CF of course ;)
I settled on this after much discussion with members here, Mark at Dali, plus my own personal aim of keeping major mods as OEM as possible.
The pad choice I believe to have been well tested by Sportyking and others and is a Japanese OEM replacement.
I chose Dali as the $$ exchange is very good at present, service was great and all items arrived within 6 days of placing the order. If you go this way, correspond by email in the first instance so Mark knows the order is coming, order on line and you should get email confirmation and tracking details PDQ.
HTH
Regards, Paul
PS - I considered Simons disc set-up, they look good and I know he's v.pleased, but the R discs were at a very good price :)
simonprelude
21-01-2007, 11:53 AM
Indeed, I was not willing to pay £1600 for the type R discs, as that was the cheapest price I could get them for until Dirk offered them for much cheapness.
If it had been a couple of months later then I too would have had the type R discs also.
PS - I considered Simons disc set-up, they look good and I know he's v.pleased, but the R discs were at a very good price :)
rsevo6
21-01-2007, 03:56 PM
Hi Reg,
I'm currently refreshing the brakes on my NSX. My set up will include the NSX-R discs (sourced from Dirk in Germany), :)
In what way are the Type-R discs different from the regular OE NSX discs? (sizewise they are the same I think?)
Senninha
21-01-2007, 03:59 PM
In what way are the Type-R discs different from the regular OE NSX discs? (sizewise they are the same I think?)
All information is here. http://nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=1638 They are the same size as the 3.2 model.
rsevo6
21-01-2007, 05:21 PM
All information is here. http://nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=1638 They are the same size as the 3.2 model.
Am I correct to conclude the Type-R discs are the same material/size/composition as the 3.2 discs with only difference the R discs beeing slotted?
If so, what is the advantage of the Type-R discs compared to the 3.2 discs to justify their (much)higher price?
simonprelude
21-01-2007, 09:20 PM
Having not used them I think that's it.
At least with the racing brake option they are lighter and you have the advantage of them being bell housed so replacement is easier and cheaper.
Am I correct to conclude the Type-R discs are the same material/size/composition as the 3.2 discs with only difference the R discs beeing slotted?
If so, what is the advantage of the Type-R discs compared to the 3.2 discs to justify their (much)higher price?
rsevo6
21-01-2007, 10:03 PM
Having not used them I think that's it.
At least with the racing brake option they are lighter and you have the advantage of them being bell housed so replacement is easier and cheaper.
Exactly my thoughts, also with the 2-piece RB discs better heat dispertion AND cheaper than 1-piece honda discs
modarr
21-01-2007, 10:32 PM
Reg, are you going to be tracking the car?
If not, Ferodo 2500 pads are damn good. I have not tried anything better. Currently on Mintex1144 if I remember and these are OK.
The OEM discs are superior to anything cheaper. I use the £100 aftermarkets mentioned in a previous thread, which last less time than the pads but this is mostly on track. My OEM discs were the longest lasting discs I have ever had. However it works out cheaper to buy the lesser discs and discard often.
The NSX brakes shouldn't be that bad. I spent yesterday hammering the brakes on track, and I mean standing on them, making full use of the amazing ABS system on the car, in the dry and had very litlle if any fade. Stopping power was very acceptable.
This was on uprated pads, cheapy discs, standard lines and bigger air deflectors.
Just my 2pence worth.
Mo
modarr
21-01-2007, 10:37 PM
[QUOTE=simonprelude]I have said this before on NSX Prime and on here, the 2 piece slotted rotors from Racing Brake are an excellent component. They are also significantly lighter than stock due to the bell being Aluminium and have the advantage that when it comes to replacement you can just change the rotor.
They are currently on offer directly from Racing Brake
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_s/4425.htm
Simon,
Do you know if these can be fitted to a '91 on 16/17" wheels. or will modifications be required to the caliper?
They seem to be the right choice of upgrade.
Thanks
Mo
rsevo6
21-01-2007, 10:56 PM
[QUOTE=simonprelude]I have said this before on NSX Prime and on here, the 2 piece slotted rotors from Racing Brake are an excellent component. They are also significantly lighter than stock due to the bell being Aluminium and have the advantage that when it comes to replacement you can just change the rotor.
They are currently on offer directly from Racing Brake
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_s/4425.htm
Simon,
Do you know if these can be fitted to a '91 on 16/17" wheels. or will modifications be required to the caliper?
They seem to be the right choice of upgrade.
Thanks
Mo
If you want to use these discs on a '91-'96 nsx, you will also need the extention brackets for the calipers RB sells this as a '91/'96-'97 size upgrade kit
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_Upgrade_to_97_s/3181.htm
If you are using the OE Acura 16/17" '97+ wheels on your car, it should fit without a problem.
RB also sells real big brake kits, but unless you want these for posing or real prolongued track use, there is no need for that and with these you will need bigger wheels
After the artciles on the Lambo crashes and the 2 piece brake a possible cause I feel heistant about them.
I am quite happy with OEM and Ferodos.
Cheers,
AR
After the artciles on the Lambo crashes and the 2 piece brake a possible cause I feel heistant about them.
I am quite happy with OEM and Ferodos.
Cheers,
AR
Do you have a link?
I am going to call EBC (somewhere) and ask them the spec. If they match something like OEM/Brembo then I am going for it. Also going to look at the OEM Blue Spot/dot whatever they were called and check the prices. I know they are cheap(ish) and they worked fine on the road.
http://www.lambounfall.de/indexe.html
Cheers,
AR
Procar Specials
22-01-2007, 09:42 AM
This is a very shooking report from a german Lamborghini owner.
Seems that this man had much luck to stay alive, these Lamborghini cars are dangerous.
But what about the brake upgrade advice?
Do you think about a broken rotor?
At the track here I have seen many broken rotors, but the most after crashing into the planks. Wheels and rotors are not made for that impacts.
I will watch this side for new reports.................
At the end, the steering-screw which might not have been tightened enough.
If the recall work obviously hasnt been done it could be the MOST realistic reason for that accident.
But what about the brake upgrade advice?
Do you think about a broken rotor?
At the track here I have seen many broken rotors, but the most after crashing into the planks. Wheels and rotors are not made for that impacts.
Two piece discs shouldn't be a problem as the shear should be taken on the wheel nuts not the carriers. However I can't see any other reason than a disc failure on that lambo as the hub is intact inside an intact wheel. It is fairly normal on race bikes to see discs shearing when they go down and the brake leaver hits the deck and stops a spinning wheel dead at xxx mph. Perhaps the same here?
Dirk, what are the average costs involved of fitting Type-R discs and pads?
Senninha
22-01-2007, 11:22 AM
[quote=reg what are the average costs involved of fitting Type-R discs and pads?[/quote]
I asked Norton Way how much to do this and was quoted @£350 which included changing the fluid.
I'm doing the disc and pad swap myself for 2 reasons, a) its only 4 bolts and 2 screws to strip each corner and b) it allows me the chance to clean everthing before re-assembly.
I'll have Norton do the braided hoses and fluid at the next service.
HTH
regards
Paul
Procar Specials
22-01-2007, 11:31 AM
Dirk ?
Dirk = http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/forumdisplay.php?f=25
BTW...
I have 2 used NSX-R slotted front rotors in stock
(good condition)
size 298x28mm
These units are for sale.
Also for sale are 2x new 2pcs rear slotted rotors in 303x23mm, they are lighter
than the JDM rotors with the same quality.
They do work perfect together, I had another set installed for 6 months in year 2005.
I also have special pads for that rotors in stock.
They do make a big difference in brake performance.
PM if you have more questions...
Finally, my name is Detlef. ;)
I asked Norton Way how much to do this and was quoted @£350 which included changing the fluid.
I will do the discs myself, maybe get the dealer to change the lines or if I am feeling in a 'can be bothered' mood do it myself :D
The Blue Point discs that I had on the teg have come in at a bargain £260 each, no, they couldn't beleive it either but they did comment that they supply 'some of the hub' which is odd? They (Partco) also have there own brand discs that retail at £35 each, but that's worryingly cheap IMO.
I have never been good with names, sorry :oops:
Senninha
22-01-2007, 12:46 PM
I will do the discs myself, maybe get the dealer to change the lines or if I am feeling in a 'can be bothered' mood do it myself :D
Good man, get those spanners working. I'm leaving the lines because of the bleeding process which includes the ABS system, better safe than sorry, plus a dealer stamp for the future.
PS, if you haven't got an impact driver, beg steal or borrow one to release the philips screws in the discs ....... and a BIG hammer. The fronts were a b******d to release, whereas the rears fell off!
Good luck
Paul
Good man, get those spanners working. I'm leaving the lines because of the bleeding process which includes the ABS system, better safe than sorry, plus a dealer stamp for the future.
PS, if you haven't got an impact driver, beg steal or borrow one to release the philips screws in the discs ....... and a BIG hammer. The fronts were a b******d to release, whereas the rears fell off!
Good luck
Paul
I guess with the modulator failures it would make sense to get them to do that. The retainers on the teg were a nightmare. I ended up drilling the heads off of them. Luckily I have access to a few impact tools and wouldn't give up my trusty impact driver for anything, even though it looks pretty mushroomed these days.
Procar Specials
22-01-2007, 02:26 PM
PM for the R brake kit.
Sometimes impact tools cant fix that problem.
I guess that you have to drill out the philips screws.
This happened at all my Hondas....much luck from here ;)
Using a M5 borer should be the best if there is no other way.
Its an easy job, the screw will be unfixed from self after some millimeters.
I recomment M6 VA stainless steel socket screws for the future.
Its a good idea to change them every year 1x, you never will have problems again.
modarr
22-01-2007, 09:28 PM
[QUOTE=modarr]
If you want to use these discs on a '91-'96 nsx, you will also need the extention brackets for the calipers RB sells this as a '91/'96-'97 size upgrade kit
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_Upgrade_to_97_s/3181.htm
If you are using the OE Acura 16/17" '97+ wheels on your car, it should fit without a problem.
RB also sells real big brake kits, but unless you want these for posing or real prolongued track use, there is no need for that and with these you will need bigger wheels
Thank you very much
modarr
22-01-2007, 09:43 PM
http://www.lambounfall.de/indexe.html
Cheers,
AR
Funny that, I had on off in a race prepared caterham a few years ago. Car went straight on at around 70 mph instead of right into the approaching corner. Sudden loss of steering and brakes was what I experienced.
Cause. the front disc had separated from the central hub of the disc. It wasn't a two piece either, although it looked like one after the off. Fatigue was the cause I'm told. Hence why I dispose of disc more regularly then pads. If it had been a corner without miles of run off, it could have been very nasty.
That link makes familiar and unpleasant reading.
Mo
Senninha
22-01-2007, 10:33 PM
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82317
This might be of interest to some given the current $$ exchange rates. . .
NSXGB
24-01-2007, 05:22 AM
I've been looking at the Racing Brake 97+ conversion for my '93. Looks like a great upgrade for the earlier cars. The annoying thing is the cost of shipping them to the UK, so I'm looking for an alternative.
I was just wondering whether anyone knew where I could get a set of the brake caliper mounting brackets from, so that I can use the earlier caliper with the later, larger discs? (Racing Brake do not supply the brackets separately).
My plan is to get the brackets and either a set of BD or Dixel AP later discs...which would make a good improvement for not too much $$.
I have tried Dirk for the second hand parts but he says that the bracket comes as part of the caliper. You cannot buy this part from Honda without the caliper.
I thought Dali stocked this part but could not find it on his site....not that I'd risk ordering from him again.....
Anyone?
simonprelude
24-01-2007, 11:01 AM
I 'might' be ordering another set of discs from RB, I will see how much the 93 upgrade kit is above the price of the discs alone, then could split shipping ??
Not sure how much extra is involved in the upgrade kit. But as far as I know the only addition is the caliper brackets.
blue5
24-01-2007, 11:52 AM
I have just read the thread with interest.
A few years ago i had a full race 230bhp TR6 which with std discs, calipers, hawk hp plus pads and braided hoses performed faultlessly with no apparent fade for lap after lap on track days.
I compared it with my tr5 road car with big ventelated discs, wilwood 4 pots goodridge hoses and uprated pads etc and to my surprise i experienced fade after a few laps, and fade throuought the day.
The problem was brake fluid. On the race car i changed the fluid after each outing, simple to do and cheap.
My road car hadnt had a fluid change for 2-3 years because its a road car and its use was nominal.
Whe i got my caterham, same thing brake fade, problem fluid. When my friend started doing track days with me in his immaculate TVR, brake fade, problem fluid!
In normal conditions, and i am generalising and drawing on my own experience here, we do not work the brake system to the full in normal road use, i drive 30k pa on the motorways and usually its light braking with the occasional panic when a foreign lorry changes lanes. So no fade no problems. Take this same car on a track, 4 laps brake fade. Change the fluid = hours of fun until the road pads get too hot and fade, change the pads to a set that will cope with higher temperatures = back to having fun for longer.
I have just this weekend changed only the brake hoses to my 6k mile elise, the effect is as if i had fitted a parachute!!!
So my opinion, based on my 9 happy years with my nsx is there is nothing wrong with the standard set up for road use and for light track day use ie 4 laps + 1 cool down and in, provided the fluid is fresh. Next comes the flexi hoses, the standard ones will degrade but subtly, so fit braded hoses to improve the pedal feel, the standard pads can be up graded to the next level ie, HP Plus, pagid rs42 etc "grade" usually called "fast road" but since we dont know whats in the std honda pad any upgrade will be difficult to do "scientifically" but only choose one that works from cold.
Go to the ap racing website and there are performance charts for most makes of "uprated pads" compared together in controlled conditions so a good starting point.
Do the discs need upgrading? If you are doing the lemans 24 hrs then yes, are you driving to work then no, a bit of track use, no.
When people see my tr5 they always comment on the big ventelated discs and 4 pot alloy calipers together with the alunimium finned rear drums, they offer, "i bet that stops well" and say how good they must be. I dont have the heart somtimes to say i only put them on because i thought they looked nice and are no better than the standard set up!
ps i only use standard dot 4 fluid, i dont reccomend silicon fluid or greenstuff pads
Simon, If you do order anymore discs can you let me know? After looking at all the options I am going with the RB one piece rotors and would like to reduce the shipping costs!
ps i only use standard dot 4 fluid, i dont reccomend silicon fluid or greenstuff pads
Good info.
The main reason I am changing is due to the discs being warped and juddering under braking. The net result of this is going to be a car that is way nicer to drive and with luck have increased performance over stock. I used Greenstuff on the ITR and was very impressed by them. I seriously only put them on there as I had EBC discs and thought it would be a decent compromise, plus I was selling the car so I didn't really care that much! However they performed very well and I would recommend them in that application (on the road in a lightish car) but have heard loads of people moaning about them and their poor show.
simonprelude
24-01-2007, 12:32 PM
It looks like you are talking about $550 difference between a set of replacement discs and a set of discs and brackets.
It looks like you are talking about $550 difference between a set of replacement discs and a set of discs and brackets.
With the exchange at 2-1 (as near as) this has to be a good time to go for it? For everyone's info Dali are a little cheaper and they stock all the bits I need as well. I would split with anyone who is going to buy brakes imminantly. I have already spoken with Mark and 2 x 35lb boxes is going to cost around £130, how much 4x discs and 4x pads will eat into this I dont know but will find out.
This could be a chance get lines or pads and maybe other stuff like cat bypass pipes all in one go at a decent price?
If anyone is interested take a look at http://www.daliracing.com and let me know if you are interested in anything?
NSXGB
24-01-2007, 03:54 PM
I 'might' be ordering another set of discs from RB, I will see how much the 93 upgrade kit is above the price of the discs alone, then could split shipping ??
Not sure how much extra is involved in the upgrade kit. But as far as I know the only addition is the caliper brackets.
Good idea Simon, thanks.
The brackets work out more han the discs!
The shipping quote from them (for 4 x discs and brackets) was in the region of $260. I have a mate in the freight business who might be able to do something there, but can't promise....
Let me know if you are going to order....
Anyone remember if Dali used to sell the brackets? I thought he did and were a lot cheaper...
Ferris Bueller
23-04-2007, 12:29 PM
It seems we're all running different brakes!
I currently have Endless CCR pads but don't feel they're a huge improvement over OEM and the amount of dust they produce is unreal. Anyone have any direct experience of Hawk HPS (+) or Pagid RS pads?
Hawks seem conspicuoulsy good value at £50 a set from the US. Pagids come in at £130.
I have Hawk HP+'s fitted and early impressions are they bite harder than stock require more heat to work and along with stainless lines have way more feel. They will probably dust more as well but that's a fact of life. I dont care what any pad manufacturer says about low dust formula's the more aggressive the pad the more material is going to shed and the more dust generated!!! Senninha has Mu's as does Y1 (i think) and they both rate those as well. I would have gone down that road but it meant dealing with a certain vendor who is less than reliable! I paid around £100 all in for a set of 4. Will have a better idea when they are throughly bedded in.
blue5
23-04-2007, 03:48 PM
as per my previous post HP + are excellent pads and i would have fitted them to my elise but they are not available in the pad shape i need so i fitted pagids R42 (the blue ones) and they are excellent
I did 3x 25 mile sessions of bedfords gt circuit a few weeks ago and not a hint of fade, except for the driver who needed to rest until cool betwen sessions!
Kevin
23-04-2007, 06:31 PM
I've tried EBC redstuff on the X.
Never ever ever ever ever ever again.
I like Blue5's "4 laps +1 to cool down"
On my brakes I did 1 hour straight at Bedford.
At 3mins per lap that's 20 laps or 90 miles. I only came in 'cos I ran out of petrol.
I don't normally do that, but I was testing what it's like to drive for an hour without stopping. One of the NSX Trophy races is an hour long endurance.
nigel
24-04-2007, 04:17 AM
I did the SS lines, $100 US that's 50 quid from Josh at S.O.S in Calif. and Powerslot slotted rotors, from Josh at S.O.S as well, that are made by the same people that make Brembo, just not in the red box! $180 US, that's 90 quid a pair, front and rear. Stock pads work great for street and are almost priced competitivly and don't dust to bad. Bled and replaced the fluid with DOT 4 and they're the bollicks.
NSXPrime has great DIY with pictures. It almost takes more time to raise the car from the ground than to do the update.
Cheers
nigel
NSX 2000
24-04-2007, 10:28 PM
I have Hawk HP+'s fitted and early impressions are they bite harder than stock require more heat to work and along with stainless lines have way more feel. They will probably dust more as well but that's a fact of life. I dont care what any pad manufacturer says about low dust formula's the more aggressive the pad the more material is going to shed and the more dust generated!!! Senninha has Mu's as does Y1 (i think) and they both rate those as well. I would have gone down that road but it meant dealing with a certain vendor who is less than reliable! I paid around £100 all in for a set of 4. Will have a better idea when they are throughly bedded in.
Is there any where in the UK that sells Mu's so we don't have to deal with a certain vendor?
Is there any where in the UK that sells Mu's so we don't have to deal with a certain vendor?
SOS can get Mu pads if you want them. They will recommend you HPS's and/or HP+'s. I can't say which is better or worse but will say that you will be happy with either.
HTH
TheSebringOne
24-04-2007, 11:34 PM
Sorry for the lateness as just back from the Lakes District after 4 days!
Reg, will you keep us updated on how you get on with EBC and what you finally decide to do. I assume your not tracking the X. Also are your brake lines & disc the original set? or second set. My X is also a 99, but with 36K miles, with the original dics I think & brake lines, but seem perfectly fine to me.
Nigel, SOS are ok to deal with?
Paul, Dali are ok to deal with as theres a large thread about his reliabilty and trust worthyness, please I don't want re start a debate on this.
Anyone or Paul? Are the upgraded deflectors purely to deflect more cooling air onto the disc? I assume theres no advantages in road use, but great for tracking?
I need to change my all my disc IDC as the last MOT and Honda service Dept stated the edges of all of them are very rusty, but road worthy. Even though the rust has not affected the area where the pads touches, I think they will need replacing soon. Much appreciated. :D
Boomin33
16-09-2007, 09:42 AM
I have said this before on NSX Prime and on here, the 2 piece slotted rotors from Racing Brake are an excellent component. They are also significantly lighter than stock due to the bell being Aluminium and have the advantage that when it comes to replacement you can just change the rotor.
They are currently on offer directly from Racing Brake
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_s/4425.htm
I am using these with Goodridge stainless hoses, Motul fluid and Type R pads.
If you did want to splash the cash then the whole Type R set up would fit as the brakes are the same size from 1997 onwards. However I think the calipers are only aesthetically different so would not bother changing unless yours are causing problems.
Hi, To be honest the brakes were something I noticed yesterday that seemed Not to be up to scratch. I've got a few modified cars, so maybe i'm just spoilt.
Is this Racing Brake set-up still one of the better choices out there for me?? sounds pretty cheap and as I'm going to the US in 8 weeks could just bring them back in my luggage.
TheQuietOne
16-09-2007, 10:43 AM
Hi, To be honest the brakes were something I noticed yesterday that seemed Not to be up to scratch. I've got a few modified cars, so maybe i'm just spoilt.
Come on then what's in the paddock?
I think these brakes are a popular choice, oh and by the way you need to update your profile,
'Do you own an NSX?: No' :):laugh:
Boomin33
16-09-2007, 12:23 PM
Come on then what's in the paddock?
I think these brakes are a popular choice, oh and by the way you need to update your profile,
'Do you own an NSX?: No' :):laugh:
Thanks.. think I'll continue with research.. but looking probable I could go for these brakes.
The paddock...
My Signature pretty much sums up the sad state of affairs I've found myself in.
the RX-7 & Skyline (Gold Brembos) are going within the next month to justify the NSX I pick up later this week.
the 300zx has had over £45K put into it and is running AP racing brakes now. It's a scary, scary unrelenting, unweilding beast; especially on cold winter mornings when the HKS T3 turbos, 700cc injectors, massive intercoolers, forged internals & MOTEC M800 Engine Management start to work their magic ( I'd say in excess of 530bhp at the rear wheels on those 'brisk' days )
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/boomin33/300ZXa1.jpg
My wife got one of these... which to date is the best car I've ever had the priveledge of owning. Then again I pick of a Honda later this week...
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/boomin33/croppedSC-1.jpg
TheSebringOne
16-09-2007, 01:19 PM
So you like Japanese cars aot I think! :D
One or two piece(s) Racing Brake are good options, especially with the exchange rates and you're getting them yourself, save on the shipping costs.
Maybe try Bazza here at NSXVTEC who can get OEM and performance parts direct from Japan! May be AP Dixcels slotted or slotted heat treated or if you have the dough, Type R rotors from him?
Senninha
16-09-2007, 03:27 PM
Hi,
Just a general note on buying parts ... using Barry of Vtec Direct you get a delivered to your door price with no surprises as he takes care of duties. With US imports its more and more likely that the nice gentlemen at customs will open the parcel / invoice and ask you for a contribution to our governments coffers :angry:. As if we dont pay enough already!!
HTH, Paul
dan the man
16-09-2007, 04:53 PM
hmm im off to the US in jan with winter sports gear also.. so if i leave room could bring some goods back if i organise myself
TheSebringOne
16-09-2007, 11:58 PM
Apologise all, I meant Bazza at VtecDirect (sorry Barry), thanks Paul! As a rule of thumb, add another 30% on top of what you paid in the States if you get caught at Customs! :(
DTM, how much allowance you got? List being compiled at present! :D
dan the man
17-09-2007, 07:27 AM
im not sure buy between my snowboard case, my luiggage case and my rucksak, plus 7 other guys could squeeze some stuff in no probs.
bazza
17-09-2007, 08:55 AM
Project Mu and Greddy do 4 pot kits for the NA1 NSX if thats any use? ;)
Senninha
17-09-2007, 12:28 PM
We will have to do a snowboard thread :D
anyway BOTGood call Dan ... is it just me or do the last 8 or so posts appear to be in a foreign language :dunno: You guys are making me feel old :laugh:
Regards, Paul
bazza
17-09-2007, 01:19 PM
BAZZ- the 4 pots, do they fit under the front 16" ?
Codes and sizes below:
FS44S-H105
332*28mm
FS44S-H105B
355*28mm
FS44-H105A
345*32mm
FS44-H105B
355*32mm
All of the above are 4 pots.. :)
YHPM too..
markc
17-09-2007, 02:34 PM
Dan, AFAIK nothing bigger than the 298mm disc will fit under factory 16"s.
You'll need to move up to 17" fronts to go with the bigger (328/330mm) discs that, along with 4 pot calipers, will make any significant braking improvement.
Cheers
Mark
dan the man
17-09-2007, 02:54 PM
thanks marc.
Baz too- but no PM as yet (if it was intended for me)
TheSebringOne
17-09-2007, 09:53 PM
Alternatively, without having to change the fronts to 17 wheels, bigger rotors, bigger callipers with more pots, would it not be worth upgrading to to Type Rs fronts 298mm rotors and type R callipers? I think DTM has oem size 282mm Mugens at present? Since if you upgrade a size up on the fronts, you are going have to change back wheels to match, unless you can get 02+ oem alloys, which are very rare! Just my 2p. :)
Rob_Fenn
18-09-2007, 08:07 AM
To be fair when we were running the OEM setup with different pads and brake lines the braking didn't feel that wanting, and the feel was great. Consequently i think something must of been up with Reg's setup for him to be so disappointed...although i don't know what year his is.
I personally would think about rebuilding the calipers, is there a service kit for them? Otherwise i can only recommend one solution :)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/robfenn/DNG7.jpg
dan the man
18-09-2007, 08:30 AM
everytime i see that photo i think the wheel is photoshopped..lol
my brakes were fine on the ring, combination of good pads, decent discs and GOOD FLUID THATS FRESH was fine for me.
I for one think changing fluid is always a good move and cheap.
dan the man
18-09-2007, 08:31 AM
PS. i would like to drive robbs car to feel the brakes tho ;)
NSXGB
18-09-2007, 08:46 AM
To be fair when we were running the OEM setup with different pads and brake lines the braking didn't feel that wanting, and the feel was great. Consequently i think something must of been up with Reg's setup for him to be so disappointed...although i don't know what year his is.
I personally would think about rebuilding the calipers, is there a service kit for them? Otherwise i can only recommend one solution :)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/robfenn/DNG7.jpg
Yes, there is a service kit for them, ticked that box.
Ferris Bueller
26-10-2007, 10:56 PM
I have said this before on NSX Prime and on here, the 2 piece slotted rotors from Racing Brake are an excellent component. They are also significantly lighter than stock due to the bell being Aluminium and have the advantage that when it comes to replacement you can just change the rotor.
They are currently on offer directly from Racing Brake
http://www.racingbrake.com/NSX_s/4425.htm
I am using these with Goodridge stainless hoses, Motul fluid and Type R pads.
Does anyone have any feedback on the single piece discs please? Also, does anyone know of a UK stockist?
Thanks
TheSebringOne
26-10-2007, 11:08 PM
Simon got the 2 piece RB discs and maybe Luke? They have said positive things. Not sure about the single piece, but the only difference is weight saving and the fact you can replace the outer disc and keep the centre aluminuim piece in long run! I've searched for a UK supplier, but to no avail when interested and was going to order them from SOS or Dali, but instead got AP Dixcels from Japan courtesy of Bazza and they are great. HTH
NSXGB
28-10-2007, 08:31 AM
Not sure about the single piece, but the only difference is weight saving and the fact you can replace the outer disc and keep the centre aluminuim piece in long run!
....and the better heat dissipation....
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