AA 2 days running!

[gsuds]

Heading home on M9 today - passed by Scooby STi. Clearly couldn't let that happen...so maxed in 3rd etc etc:oops:
......followed very rapidly by rear view disappearing in cloud:eek:

...so pulled over, got self & Sue out (fast!) and opened all orifices (the car's, before any of you start).

Coolant steam from every part of car, front and rear, and rad. leak, lost c. 1L coolant. No loss power evident before I shut down, admittedly very rapidly indeed.

Looks like burst rad. Couldn't see any obvious hole. Plan to fill it up then run cold to see where leak coming from.

So, flat-bedded home.:cry:

Wouldn't be so bad if the same thing hadn't happened less than 24h earlier on the same motorway to the Landie (well, slightly different - its temp gauge in the red depsite plenty coolant so ?bu**ered water pump etc) - also flat-bedded home.....

Getting my money's worth from AA this year:rolleyes:

[jaytip]

Sorry to hear about that.Let's hope it won't be too costly to fix.

[mutley]

OUCH!!!

Had similar probs with my BM last summer. There is nothing worse that a car going wrong!

Hope it's nothing too major to fix

Jim

[simonprelude]

Not good, I don't think Rad Weld or anything like that is recomended for the NSX radiator either :(

[gsuds]

Hoping it's "only" the rad...

[Papalazarou]

Graham,

if you do need a new water pump? Buy it from the states, it's about a third of the price.
Hope you're back on the road soon.

Cheers,

James.

[Kevin]

Ooh, new NSX rad is £800, if I remember when someone years ago holed one.

Still haven't got round to getting some made up by rad-tec. Of course now yours is broken it could be used as a template.

I could do with a new rad, as at 15 years old, the fins are severely corroded and flake and fall apart at the slightest touch.

www.radtec.co.uk (http://www.radtec.co.uk)

[Steveycaz]

I have joined the few who run there NSX without a front plate. This means my rad is more exposed to stones etc... Should I use a mesh? If so, do anyone make these specifically for the NSX?

[simonprelude]

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/Cantrell_Concepts/radiator_shield/

$72 plus shipping, anyone up for a group buy ??

[NSXGB]

$72 for that bit of painted ali mesh. I think you could make one up very easily....

[kevinpsw]

I know my wife will mock me for buying yet more things for that car of yours but I'd be in for a group buy.

[simonprelude]

I can see the work involved and don't have the time to cut holes out of a piece of sheet myself, they specify that it is specially sourced, so unless anyone can get hold of similar material then I'm happy to go with it.

However I could buy one, use it as a template for a friend to make some out of Ti :)

For the sake of £36 plus tax and p&p I'll probably pay for one.

[Steveycaz]

£40 or so vs. radiator replacement :rolleyes: ? I'd be up for a group buy. anyone else - add your name and I'll see if we can get delivery in time for JapFest!

Name Qty
Steveycaz 1

[simonprelude]

Have already mailed SOS to see if we can get discount :)
Will open a separate thread when I get confirmation from SOS


£40 or so vs. radiator replacement :rolleyes: ? I'd be up for a group buy. anyone else - add your name and I'll see if we can get delivery in time for JapFest!

Name Qty
Steveycaz 1

[DTA-Motorsport]

Sorry to hear about your coolant problems ... Strange though that steam came out both at the front and rear of the car (if I understood it correctly). It is unlikely that a buggered rad causes multiple leaks all along the coolant track. Sound more like some of the stock coolant hoses have come off or split under the high pressure you put the system under chasing that Scoobie. If you can't find an obvious leak at the radiator side of things put the car on a lift and check every coolant hose and corresponding clip.

With respect to sorting out your own ally mesh to protect you radiator from stone chips etc - good idea in theory but potentially counter productive in practice. Here's why: any vertical mesh material (regardless of the aperatures of the holes) will at some point produce a "wall" of air just in front of it. This is an aerodynamic property and there's not much we can do about that. Basically, the bits of mesh that are in the way force air forwards building up this "wall" of air. This will prevent any further air from passing through the mesh and hence starve the radiator from vital cooling just when you need it most (ie - at high speeds).

I have encountered this problem on a couple of race prepared cars I've worked on and the only solution is to provide alternative air intakes with a bend inlet trackt to prevent stones and debris to pass through at speed.

The aerodynamic principle (so rubbishly) explained above also holds for the radiator and/or intercoolers itself. Any vertical surface will produce this wall of air. Therefore, if you look at formula 1 cars and other race cars you'll see that radiators are positioned at an angle to the airflow (ie - fins facing the road). This minimises the "wall" effect (although it doesn't stop it from occurring entirely).

Anyway - I've gone on far too long as it is. In conclusion, the mesh is a good idea for those of you who don't do silly speeds on a regular basis (ie 90+mph). There will always be a trade-off between the aperature size and effectiveness but in general you should go for mesh which has the biggest aperature you can get away with. Angling the mesh doesn't help either as this only serves to increase the exposed surface area of the metal.

HTH

Dan

[simonprelude]

Surely the number plate holder will be making an even worse effect both in blanking the radiator and further disturbing the aerodynamic flow ??

[Steveycaz]

Surely the number plate holder will be making an even worse effect both in blanking the radiator and further disturbing the aerodynamic flow ??

Good point! It is IMO the biggest damn number plate holder in the world!

[DTA-Motorsport]

Surely the number plate holder will be making an even worse effect both in blanking the radiator and further disturbing the aerodynamic flow ??

Yes, it does affect the airflow but not as much as the addition of mesh would. Look at it this way: With the number plate holder in place there is still a large enough aperture open to allow for sufficient airflow into the radiator area. Put mesh on it and you completely restrict the flow (granted a little air will still pass through).

I know it is hard to believe but mesh really does produce a "wall" after a certain speed has been achieved. I have seen windtunnel video footage (and corresponding air flow rate data) that clearly shows this.

[Papalazarou]

Damn that mesh, when will they learn?

Cheers,

James.

[mutley]

What's the latest? Do you know what all the damage is yet??


Jim

[gsuds]

Thanks to all for input so far.

Was interested in mesh (obviously:( ) but Dan's argument seems sensible enough.

Pouring water into header tank => immediate flow out from bottom of rad.

Took rad out - poured water in top => same effect. No other obvious leaks.

Seems therefore to be rad. :rolleyes:

Lots of the rad element seems pretty crumbly.

Planning to take it along to Serck Marston, hence new question....

....Does anybody have any strong views / experience on possibility of reconditioning the rad.? Would certainly, if 'twere possible, be more bearable than replacement :o

[Papalazarou]

I just got my Volvo stuck in mud on the moors! Seriously pissed off, waiting for the RAC to drag me out. Only another hour!

Totally sympathize Graham.

Cheers,

James.

[TheQuietOne]

I just got my Volvo stuck in mud on the moors! Seriously pissed off, waiting for the RAC to drag me out. Only another hour!

Totally sympathize Graham.

Cheers,

James.

Sorry to hear that...how did you manage to post while waiting for the Volva' to be collected out of interest? Knowing you're a bit of a technonumpty I can't imagine you have a wireless laptop card thingamajig mate!?!? :confused:

Hope you're tucked up in bead with your cocoa now though...

[Papalazarou]

Sorry to hear that...how did you manage to post while waiting for the Volva' to be collected out of interest? Knowing you're a bit of a technonumpty I can't imagine you have a wireless laptop card thingamajig mate!?!? :confused:

Hope you're tucked up in bead with your cocoa now though...


Hi Matt,

thanks for your unwavering support. I got a lift home then the RAC guy took me up to the car and pulled it out of the mud. Only took a minute.

If there's anything I hate, it's the little things that creep up on you.


Cheers,

James.

[reg]

....Does anybody have any strong views / experience on possibility of reconditioning the rad.? Would certainly, if 'twere possible, be more bearable than replacement :o

I work in a BSB race team and I have a contact who makes our rads. He could make you a new aluminium one and I am guessing it would be pretty reasonable.

When we trash rads on the track here's what we do.

1. Locate leak points
2. Dry the rad
3. Heat the rad with a hot air gun
4. Apply an epoxy resin (araldite etc)
5. Use indirect heat to cure the resin.

It is possible to pressure test them if you have a home made adaptor, but TBH its pretty obvious if it is fixed or not. Longevity depends on lots of things but its never going to be as good as a new one, although repairs are fairly reliable IME.

Let me know if I can help.

[gsuds]

Reg,

Thanks for that, will indeed let you know if need be!

Cheers, Graham

[gsuds]

Latest is that Serck Intertruck will re-core the rad, fully warranted, for "£200, tops".

Seems reasonable enough to me....

G