Got round to the brakes at last

[reg]

Been a while getting things ready but today started the work. The old pads didn't look that bad really so will keep those to one side. The new HP+'s fitted without any grief whatsoever. Disc retaining screws were the usual PITA but the impact driver sorted them out ok. After learning the rear pistons screwed in with the ITR (after almost destroying the caliper with clamps lol) I used my improvised tool (large file and a pair of mole grips clamped to it) and all was well. The shims where there were any were ok so re-used them and just smeared copper slip on the piston faces. I hope the Hawk's aren't too noisy without them!

Whoever did the brakes before probably never used a torque wrench as everything was FT, unless things had just seized? Anyway dangerous game to play with castings so its torqued now no worries.

Stainless lines replaced the old ones and I part bled it through as the other side is still to be completed tomorrow. Someone has also modified the splashguards, with large inlet/oulet holes, also a reasonable size plastic deflector (is this std with 3.2's?)

As soon as I get the rest of the mechanical stuff finished and the lines bled though I have got some Megs degreaser and detailer lined up with the Karcher. With a brief go at the rear one today its clear it's going to be a while getting it how I want it. 'x' years of crud has almost become a new life form:D Will post up some pictures when its all sorted, that's as long as it looks ok!

PS. The Meguires Hyper Dressing is very, very good. I was sceptical as it wasn't that cheap (£35 for 5L) but it dilutes up to 10:1 and will give from satin to gloss shine on pretty much anything. Tyres, dash, arches, scuttle tray, hoses etc. Awesome stuff, spray it and leave it to dry job done.

[NSXGB]

Disc retaining screws were the usual PITA but the impact driver sorted them out ok

Just done my discs all round....bought an impact driver just in case and mine unscrewed easy as, typical...

Bought a Draper combi tool (CWT1) to wind the pistons back which was well worth it for about a fiver.
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Images/DB_Detail/DR_52334_CWT1.jpg

I found that I could not get the pistons back far enough to get the shims in for some reason?? Got to replace a few rubber boots, so will get them in with a bit of luck now the brakes have bedded in....

[reg]

I found that I could not get the pistons back far enough to get the shims in for some reason?? Got to replace a few rubber boots, so will get them in with a bit of luck now the brakes have bedded in....

Are you talking about the rears? I found I didnt have to wind them back to even flush with the caliper face. The fronts on mine on are missing the shim that is closest to the pistons but they had loads of clearance. Shims aren't really needed anyway if you copper slip the back of the pads I have found.

Forgot to say that the rear discs I removed had lots of surface cracks on the inner face:o

[NSXGB]

Are you talking about the rears? I found I didnt have to wind them back to even flush with the caliper face. The fronts on mine on are missing the shim that is closest to the pistons but they had loads of clearance. Shims aren't really needed anyway if you copper slip the back of the pads I have found.

Forgot to say that the rear discs I removed had lots of surface cracks on the inner face:o


Yes, talking about the rears. I think I know where I went wrong now though.
I put OEM pads on again all round, you get some nice black copper slip type stuff with them, which does not look so unsightly as copper slip when smeared everywhere....maybe I shouldn't put so much on? :rolleyes:

[reg]

Yes, talking about the rears. I think I know where I went wrong now though.
I put OEM pads on again all round, you get some nice black copper slip type stuff with them, which does not look so unsightly as copper slip when smeared everywhere....maybe I shouldn't put so much on? :rolleyes:

The black stuff is probaly molybdenum? On the rears there is a chance that the stubs on the back of the pads can be misaligned with the cross on the piston. A guy on Prime did this and wore some interesting shapes on his pads.

I found that assembling the caliper worked best when the carrier was installed first with the pads and then the piston assembley second. Also with the stock lines I had to undo all the clamps on the hoses to get the necessary clearance.

This was so much easier after tackiling it on an ITR. Car brakes are pretty horrible things:confused:

[NSXGB]

Yes, I sussed that the stubs on the pads had to be aligned with the piston grooves after my first attempt...

As you say, the job is definitely made easier by unbolting the anchor points on the hoses. Would have been easier for me if I'd also bought the '97 onward brake lines to go with my bigger brakes too :oops: .
Will be another set of '91-96 braided hoses available on here soon....

[reg]

SOS were great with the hoses. They came with the correct brackets and are the right length. Mr Dali was less than useless on this listing all hoses the same no matter what the year of car!

Did you read the thing of danoland, it was pretty good. Do you know if the 99 cars have plastic defelectors as standard?

[NSXGB]

The supplier of the braided hoses are the same for SOS and Dali (RIP), I have the '97 size RB brake kit on my '93 which at the moment has the shorter brake lines. SOS recommend obviously fitting the later (longer) lines...I did not see that on the site when I ordered the brakes (doh), but they did say that it was ok if I did not bolt the anchor points on and tied them out of the way with tie wraps to stop them rubbing.

Getting the longer lines when I go to the USA in a couple of weeks for peace of mind.

Can't answer your ? about deflectors, sorry.

Just Google danoland, think I've seen it before but will read again while I'm at work doing nothing better....

[reg]

Well the HP+'s are not noisy at all much to my surprise and the first set of bedding in stops have shown that the bite is harder and pedal feel with the St lines is much improved. When the pads have a few more miles on them I will bleed the system right through again as I rushed through it to get it on the road tonight and I am not sure that it is 100%, probably not much in it but the fluid isnt going to keep anyway! Started to clean one of the arches and it is going to be a while fixing them up. Standard degreaser and a Karcher couldn't shift the hardest of the crud.

Anyway job done. Sort of :)

[Senninha]

Do you know if the 99 cars have plastic defelectors as standard?
Yes, they're standard. Held in place by 2 or 3 10mm bolts. Swapped mine as you know for the larger CF ones.

regards, Paul

[Kevin]

Regarding the longer brake lines for the rear brakes, and not being able to secure the shorter standard ones.

What I did, is remove the small plate that the line attaches to on the upright. Then pass the brake line bracket through the upright, and bolt it on the other side of the upright.

This way the line is still attached.

[NSXGB]

Regarding the longer brake lines for the rear brakes, and not being able to secure the shorter standard ones.

What I did, is remove the small plate that the line attaches to on the upright. Then pass the brake line bracket through the upright, and bolt it on the other side of the upright.

This way the line is still attached.

I managed to bolt mine back in the same place, but it's a bit tight. Longer lines on order....