My new brakes!

[Silver Surfer]

2114

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2116

Got my new brakes ready for the Track day.:)

SS

[forumadmin]

Just moved this thread, as it was a little off topic for the events thread. As no doubt people will ask about them.

[Kevin]

So tell us, what are they? Where from?

I hope you followed a bedding in procedure to get the best out of them.

I use the procedure AP Racing has on their website. Look for bedding in procedure in with the rotor section.

[mutley]

SS, what discs/pads did you use? how much? and where from?
Are all your wheels in that good a condition, they look brand new.

Jim

[Mr_Spanners]

Looks like EBC 'Turbo Groove' dotted and grooved discs. I hope they're spot on with the 285mm diameter and the caliper carrier bolts are located properly as the bottom of the caliper looks scarily close to the inner rim of the wheel! This said, I know there's normally only a few mm's of clearance so it's probably the angle of the photo???

~Phil.

[gumball]

the first pic the wheel looks quite bronze, something to think about when I get a refurb

[Steveycaz]

I've got Black Diamond discs that look identical.

[Senninha]

Are all your wheels in that good a condition, they look brand new.Jim
Jim, I saw this car a couple of weeks ago and yes, SS wheels really are in that good condition, as is the rest of the car. Nice job.

regards, Paul

[Silver Surfer]

The brake disc are made by AP performance brakes but supplied as APEX and are grooved and crossdrilled by my supplier Robert Coates (aka Tyreman on nsxcb) cost £400. The Pads are Mintex (M1155 spec) pads cost £125.
Robert owns a tyre & exhaust centre in Braintree Essex and also owns a red/black 92 NSX and also has the same brake setup except I did not request cross drilling the rear brakes. Brake fluid as recommended and bought from Oilman = Motul MTF600.

Priccie but it has transformed my breaking response and pedal feel. It is predictable and I can lock the front easily. (hence I knew my ABS is buggered :( ).


gumball: the first pic the wheel looks quite bronze, something to think about when I get a refurb

It's just the flash light on my camera and the fluorescent light in my garage giving that effect. The alloys are normal colour.

The calipers are a few millimetres clear from the wheel as seen in the attachment.

SS

[TheSebringOne]

Very nice stoppers & your alloys look like they just left the factory! A few Qs if you don't mind, is that bolt because the callipers are 3.0 upgraded to 3.2? You say the disc were drilled & crossed by a club member here, so can I get these untouched? Can he supply the larger disc for the 3.2 or are these them? Can I buy these from Apex or are they trade only? Lastly you have not drilled the rears, why? Is it because additional cooling is required on the fronts only? Thanks James :D

[Silver Surfer]

James,

The rear are not cross drilled as it was additional cost and the fronts are the one that gets the hottest with all the punishment. Tyreman agreed that it would be fine even for the track (He claims to have a lot of tracking experience and holds some UK record for something in the 80's plus he deals with wheels and brake all his life). The calipers are OEM for the 3.0l as far as I know unless the previous numerous owner did something I am not aware. The front wheel are the original 15" (small but effective) and Tyreman will be able to get the suitable size disc for any size wheel. You can call him at 01376 347452 asking for Robert and mention you are a 'X' owner.

SS

[TheSebringOne]

SS, Thanks alot for the contact details, when I ring them I will mention your name if thats ok? Couple of last Qs, You say the complete set of discs are £400, which is good value, are they the same size/ thickness to OEMs and if you did'nt have them crossed/drilled, would they be slightly cheaper? If you are going & tracking them at Japfest, maybe we could hook up & share your opinions? Thanks :D

[Silver Surfer]

James,

Sorry, can't attend Japfest as I am working. :(
The discs are cheaper if you don't crossdrill as they come grooved (about £100 cheaper). They are also OEM size as my calipers are unaltered. I also thought about braided hoses but Robert (Tyreman) said he don't think they are necesary unless I track weekly and they may make the feel too stiff. The 'give' from the original non-braided hoses compare to the braided hoses are miniscule.
I must admit he seems to be spot on.
Labour was £200 to get them fitted though. (Nearly a whole day).

SS

[Kevin]

£200!!

Geez mate, next time you know where to come!

We did Senninha's brake lines on Saturday. I'm waiting on his photos and write up, for an article I'll publish.

[Silver Surfer]

Kevin,

I did thought about entertaining your help but did not want to take up too much of your time as I know you're on a Japfest deadline. :)

Next time. I'll call.

SS

[TheSebringOne]

Kevin, Are you a car mechanic? and do you have your own garage business? If so, shame you live in Herts and don't live closer, might have a few jobs in the future if your cheap enough!? ;)

[Kevin]

I'm not a car mechanic by profession. It's just a hobby or something I do 'cos I am too tight to pay mechanics labour rates.

I've started doing the odd job to fund the go-faster-crack-pipe addiction.

SS, for £200, there's no deadline that important!

[mutley]

All,

It might be worthy of note, that befre I changed to RAF Police, I was a mechanic (mechanical engineer) before hand (and I still keep my hand in with all sorts of vehicles and equipment.)

Maybe not an NSX specialist, but I'm always available to give someone a hand.

Cheers

Jim

[reg]

£200!!

Geez mate, next time you know where to come!

We did Senninha's brake lines on Saturday. I'm waiting on his photos and write up, for an article I'll publish.

Anyone who wants a hand with brakes I will help them out for the price of the fuel to get wherever it is. I think its about time the myths that routine stuff like fitting discs/pads and bleeding a system through is anything magical are de-cloaked:D All, and any articles that encourage people to do these things themselves are great and I look forward to the writeup Kevin. End of the day if your car is going to a main dealer they have times to work within. I am not saying that they wont do a good job but with your own labour you can either invest more in the hardware you are fitting increasing the performance or put the money towards something else! Doing the work yourself is the only way to absolutely guarantee it is correct. knowing your car will pay you back every time.

[DamianW]

Wish I'd seen this earlier, as I'm about to bend over and get rogered for 1200 quid. On top of a 500 quid service bill.

Bye bye beer tokens.

[mutley]

Anyone who wants a hand with brakes I will help them out for the price of the fuel to get wherever it is. I think its about time the myths that routine stuff like fitting discs/pads and bleeding a system through is anything magical are de-cloaked:D All, and any articles that encourage people to do these things themselves are great and I look forward to the writeup Kevin. End of the day if your car is going to a main dealer they have times to work within. I am not saying that they wont do a good job but with your own labour you can either invest more in the hardware you are fitting increasing the performance or put the money towards something else! Doing the work yourself is the only way to absolutely guarantee it is correct. knowing your car will pay you back every time.


Here here,

have a hunt through some of the old threads and you'll see how much I have saved by doing all the work myself.

Jim

[Silver Surfer]

[mutley

All,

It might be worthy of note, that befre I changed to RAF Police, I was a mechanic (mechanical engineer) before hand (and I still keep my hand in with all sorts of vehicles and equipment.)

Maybe not an NSX specialist, but I'm always available to give someone a hand.

Cheers

Jim

Jim,

I'll take you up on the dreaded gauge when you are nearer the vicinty.

SS :)

[mutley]

SS,

Sure no problem, it doesn't take long really, the tricky bit is doing a slight modification to the plastic casing for the wires, but you can have a look at mine and how I've got it set up first. (And I discovered no need to cut bits out of the gauges at all, fit over the needles without removing/ damaging.)

Cheers

Jim

[Senninha]

Wish I'd seen this earlier, as I'm about to bend over and get rogered for 1200 quid. On top of a 500 quid service bill.

Bye bye beer tokens.

They must be some pretty special brakes for that kind of money!!

[TheSebringOne]

DamienW, Sorry to hear that you spent £1700 squids!! Were these for all round OEM brake discs? The £500 was a Major serive I assume? Finally was it HUK that cut a limb off, pardon the expression!? :rolleyes:

Jim, you are one true Jock! I always knew you had a mechanical background too! Shame you don't live near by as I could do with a fellow X DIYer! In the future I will try to have a go myself as its a learning process & confident booster too, plus I have the help of you guys! Otherwise if I'm a chicken, I have a mechanic friend since childhood & hes honest & cheap! :D Although he does'nt know I own a X yet!

[mutley]

Aye well you never know, I maybe persueded to have the odd wee trip away to give you a hand with anything that may seem a bit major to tackle on your own.

Just let me know

Jim

[DamianW]

DamienW, Sorry to hear that you spent £1700 squids!! Were these for all round OEM brake discs? The £500 was a Major serive I assume? Finally was it HUK that cut a limb off, pardon the expression!? :rolleyes:



Yup OEM stuff. So they'd better last this time (previous set were slightly warped). A lesson learnt I think - next time I'll sort something out or try DIY.

And yes this is HUK. They are taking the piss in a big way here, welcome to rip-off Britain. Its not like the NSX discs are anything special, far from it.

[Senninha]

Yup Its not like the NSX discs are anything special, far from it.
I dont know if they would fit, but I've been told the CRV discs are the same size and probably nowhere near the same price.

Make sure you bed these new ones in and thye should last well.

regards

[Kevin]

I hope you're not saying CRV discs fit based on what I said last weekend.

I meant the discs are the same size, ie 280mm dia. So were my old Accord's discs. The width, and offset is bound to be different.

[DamianW]

Whats bedding in procedure for new discs/pads. They usually just say take it easy for a few hundred miles and thats it.

I know from previous experience that pads can glaze if under used though...

[Kevin]

I used a procedure that's on AP Racing's website.

You'll have to set aside an evening to do it all the way through though, and have a road where you can perform the stops.

[reg]

Whats bedding in procedure for new discs/pads. They usually just say take it easy for a few hundred miles and thats it.

I know from previous experience that pads can glaze if under used though...

My advice is to scrub off 10 mph a few times to get the surfaces up to temp and remove any bedding compounds if they have it then 5-6 60-0 stops. The important thing I have learnt is not to come to a full stop if you can help it and let them cool between the stops. There may be some fade in the initial stops as the pads are still 'green'. Also leave the handbrake off, especially in the wet or straight after you have been braking hard. You will feel and smell when the pads are working properly and have bedded. Dont be too light with them! If a pad does glaze it is pretty easy to remove the top surface with some coarse paper.

[Kevin]

The AP site actually says not to use new pads to bed in new discs.

Maybe there is a conflict of purpose if you do both at the same time. The pads may benefit from a harder/quicker bedding in, while the discs should be heat cycled gently to let the metal 'de-stress' or whatever the PR speak is for it.

[reg]

Have also heard that one but never bought into it. IMO as long as you dont fry the brakes from the outset you're going to be fine. Maybe AP's advice is geared more towards their race stuff?

[dan the man]

its not like we all have time to fit old pads with new discs then fit new pads for those to bed.

If we did that we would be braking gently for a few weeks..and we cant have that ;)

[TheSebringOne]

Damien, the only positive thing (bar price) is that OEM discs are well reknown for lasting the longest in general road use, when compared to after market ones. :D

Jim, thanks very much for your offer, might take you up one day for a big job that I don't want HUK to do, obviously you will be well looked after if it came to it! ;)

I know I will be doing my stoppers in the future as they are the originals !! ;) Probably get em from SOS & maybe get my mate to do it!

[DamianW]

The AP site actually says not to use new pads to bed in new discs.

Maybe there is a conflict of purpose if you do both at the same time. The pads may benefit from a harder/quicker bedding in, while the discs should be heat cycled gently to let the metal 'de-stress' or whatever the PR speak is for it.

I've heard that one too. I guess you have to risk the pads glazing a bit initially to make sure the discs are ok (the expensive bit), then if necessary heat-cycle the pads once the discs have done a few hundred miles.

[mutley]

............................
Jim, thanks very much for your offer, might take you up one day for a big job that I don't want HUK to do, obviously you will be well looked after if it came to it! ;).....................


Don't want to pull this thread off topic, so I'll juat say we can have a good ol' chat about it at the 'fest.

Jim

[TheSebringOne]

Great idea, there will be so so much to chat about all things X & not, that Fest may not be long enough !?!? :D

[mutley]

Indeedy, but to get back onto topic, obviously I'll be looking at upgrading my brakes too (amoungst the other 8,253, 876 jobs that I seem to have planned) but I am hopin to solve the riddle of teh ABS/TCS first, THEN I'll be ploughing through all the brake threads to see what seems to be the best option. As I still have the OEM 15/16 arrangement, going big will mean changing wheels, which again is planned.

I would like to go 17's all round, I think that suits the car better lookswise, but I'm sure the different front/rear sizes were done for a reason.

OH I must really start buying lottery tickets!!!


Jim

[TheSebringOne]

Good luck to ya, one in fourteen Million chance !! " BUT IT COULD BE YOU" Watch out for the Big Finger, might poke you eye out ! ;)

[DamianW]

I would like to go 17's all round, I think that suits the car better lookswise, but I'm sure the different front/rear sizes were done for a reason.


Weight? Just a guess, but anything that reduces unsprung weight is a good thing, at least as far as your ride quality goes. And ride quality is still important on a sportscar otherwise its bumpsteer-a-go-go.

Doubt going 17 all round makes a right lot of difference though.

[mutley]

Ive said it before (somehere on here) I just think that the 15" 16" combo looks far too small for the car.

But will have to wait like many other things, although I'm sure I'l get the car the way I want it evntually.


Jim