Plain disc V slotted disc

[TheSebringOne]

Sorry for another thread about disc! Should I upgrade to slotted non oem or get non oem plain? I know they give more stopping power, but dust up more & cost more. You normally get non oem pads/fast road to go with slotted (won't be tracking), which mean more dust, but since they're more aggressive, they will reduce disc life (even after bedding in period). Q is how much more reduced braking distance or shedding of speed with slotted compare to plain? Are we talking many metres or feets? :dunno: The end is near on brakes as will order soon! ;)

[forumadmin]

I would look at it this way.

There's no big difference in brand new slotted discs and pads, versus standard discs and pads. If everything is new.

What slotted discs will do, is scrape the face of the pad. This in effect keeps the pad more 'like new' than compared with standard discs. So you keep that 'new brake' feeling for longer.

This applies more if the car is used on a track, or braked excessively hard on the road.

I don't see any reason not to use standard pads on slotted discs. Sure, standard pads don't have the high heat capabilities of racing pads, but you're not racing. Standard pads create less dust, or dust of a lighter colour which can't be seen as much. They also don't have metallic particles which eat the discs. It's the metal in racing pads that gives them their aggressiveness.

I use standard pads on the rear of my car with slotted discs.

Your discs will last longer with standard pads. You can change them anytime if you want to start using racing pads should you feel the need to. Standard pads work better cold. Standard pads don't squeal. Pads are cheaper than discs.

I would use standard pads on the front of my car, unless I am on a track if I could find some. My calipers being based on AP Racing ones, means I have only found racing type pads to fit.

[dan the man]

James as you dont do any track days- or road days for that matter- yak yak!

Id just save money and get plain discs, the slots deglaze the pad at high temperatures as the materials can build up under heat.. i think.

[dan the man]

As aboce i still have my standard pads which im going to put back in for general knocking about..save the MU pads for the track etc..

[TheSebringOne]

Thanks again Kevin! I will seriously think about slotted fronts with OEM pads as work better when cold, less dust, since no metal in the pad material means less scoring, longer life & no noise squealing!

DTM! Yak yak to you, whatever that means! So slotted disc causes an glazing effect on the pads & the result is it loses a little bite when coming into contact with the disc surface? Are you saying plain disc does not or reduces this glazing effect? Does this apply to upgraded/fast road pads rather than OEMs or both?

Thanks James

[forumadmin]

So slotted disc causes an glazing effect on the pads & the result is it loses a little bite when coming into contact with the disc surface?


No its the other way round. The slots de-glaze the pads, or stop them glazing.

That's the technical term for what I was saying.....the pads stay like new and fresh.

I think DTM was trying to suggest that as you don't track the car, the slotted discs may be more than you need.

Have you seen Detlef is selling some NSX-R slotted discs? They will fit any 3.2 car. OEM quality and slotted, can't get better than that.

[TheSebringOne]

Kevin, I understand now and thanks for explaining. Dan is suggesting that I go plain as low mileage user, but maybe with the slotted you get the re assurance of better stopping power, but then you say have a look at Detlefs used R disc? I looked at these, but thought do I really need em, although they're great price. They are same diameter & thickness as my 97+ I think, but are they better than other slotted brands like Dixcel/AP or RB? If so, why? made by Honda, better heat treated metal, lightness? Thanks

[dan the man]

James as standard the stoppers on the X are plenty good enough im sure u will agree. so standard stuff would be fine for u i think..

[TheSebringOne]

I'm moving in the direction of boring plain disc all round! With new discs I will have more clean braking surface buddy on 8 disc faces if you get me!? :overhead: Sadly I've worked out that if corrosion is the same on inside which we don't see, it would be 8 x 4/5 mm lost to rust, ie nearly 4 cms or a cm each face!! :quote::laugh:

[TheSebringOne]

Does insurance change if replace OEM with after market slotted disc, but with the same diameter/thickness & using OEM pads? I don't think it would be an issue with plain ones which are the same dimensions.:dunno: Just that it would be classed as a modification, but not increased performance.

[Silver Surfer]

Don't know but logic has it the slotted brakes means you can brake better and therefore safer and less likely to cause or be involved in an accident....

But then again insurance are never logical......

I've not informed my insurance acompany that I have changed the brake disc etc. :shh:

:dunno:

SS

[Kevin]

I'm moving in the direction of boring plain disc all round! With new discs I will have more clean braking surface buddy on 8 disc faces if you get me!? :overhead: Sadly I've worked out that if corrosion is the same on inside which we don't see, it would be 8 x 4/5 mm lost to rust, ie nearly 4 cms or a cm each face!! :quote::laugh:

If you have any corrosion on the disc face then that will mean part of the pad is not rubbing that area. I doesn't matter if there's corrosion or not, the pad still isn't working in that area.

I had a ring near the hub on some discs on another car that was rusty and not being used. I had the discs turned on a lathe to flatten them out, and then all of the disc face was being used afterwards.

[TheSebringOne]

People have mentioned skimming the discs, I thought about it, but there the original OEMs, nearly 8 yrs old and my MOT friend said they would fail the next MOT! Since I can't tell how much the discs have worned without proper measuring tools, but corrosion is bad, so visually theres no ribbed edge to gauge wear on the disc where the pads don't sweep to the edge.

For piece of mind and after reading about Luke's skimming & the hassle, gonna change them all done. When I've done them, I will post the results. Just picked up the rear disc from Honda Manchester, only £89.30 for a pair!! :eek: But ordered fronts elsewhere as Honda want £583 a pair :shocked::eek: WHY!?! I double checked this with 2Mills (official NW NSX dealer) and they concur too! :dunno:

[TheSebringOne]

Can't wait for the new rotors to be fitted as just been out for a rapid drive, mashed the brake pedal since they will be replaced very soon, the vibrations seems quite bad now! :( Insurance not logical!? If you slow down quicker with slotted over plain, then the insurers will say you can carry more speed since you are relying on stronger brakes, but then more speed means more potential trouble! :unsure:

[Kevin]

If you have bad vibrations (as opposed to the Beach Boys), don't be mashing on the brakes.

The vibrations you feel, are also being felt by the calipers. I had to replace the calipers on my accord as the threaded mounting holes had enlarged, and my brakes were falling off.

[TheSebringOne]

Oh poo! & there was me thinking lets really brake very hard before they get changed! :( Thanks Kevin for another sound piece of advice and lets hope when the new rotors are on, its good vibrations, well in actual fact, nil vibrations, sorry beach boys! ;)