Delubozparts Headers on Ebay? [Archive]

NSXGB

18-07-2007, 11:33 AM

Hi,

I think I may have asked the question before but I can't find the post...

I have to get my 6yr service done shortly and was going to get them to throw on some tubular manifolds 'while they are there'.
I was pricing up the Cantrell ones from SOS but am drawn back to these as they are so reasonably priced.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-NSX-91-94-Exhaust-Header-Headers-Manifold-BIN-659_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQihZ020QQitem Z300130669259QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD4V

I know someone said that the flex joint may be a bit suspect and may fail over time and they are a copy of a well known make of headers (bothered?), but apart from that (was going to say "what have the Romans ever done for us"!)...they have surely got to be a steal??

If the joint did go, after a few years (?) - I don't drive it daily - one of the custom header fabricators in this country would be able to fix it up for good for not much dough, still bringing it in well under the price of the Cantrell....

Searches on Prime came up with some stuff but inconclusive....

Anyone have any experience or thoughts?

amo

18-07-2007, 03:47 PM

well at the rate now it is a steel steel lol
sorry
but 1.75" now wot is our standard size ??

but if u want them then get them
when they arrive get a welder to go over the welds if ur worried

thx amo

NSXGB

18-07-2007, 06:49 PM

It's not the welds that are suspect, they are top notch from what I've read. It's the flex joint.

The only other thing I read of concern was that a guy who installed a set + an aftermarket exhaust only registered a 12bhp gain.

Anyone here got the Cantrell setup?

amo

18-07-2007, 07:25 PM

britlude

18-07-2007, 08:03 PM

lots of discussion on Prime about these, and I'll say what I said there... if the joint fails (which it may or may not do, because another makes failed doesn't mean these will) the things are so damn cheap any repair costs are already factored in!

can't see what the joint fuss is all about, as...
1. the joints are the same as on My standard JDM NA1 NSX.
2. the 'better' flex joints, sometimes refered to, are the same concertina design with stainless braid over it! (the later exhausts had a 'ball' flex joint)

when the time comes to change my exhaust once it's rotted out i'll be starting with these headers! And anything has to be better than the cast manifolds, it's a sportscar for God's sake!

NSXGB

18-07-2007, 08:08 PM

.....that's the kind of reply I wanted to hear. I didn't realise it was the same joint as the OEM down pipe....

If the Taitec group buy does not come off, I may become a guinea pig.

amo

23-07-2007, 08:41 PM

so wots happin u bought 1 or not
cos im still lookin at these

thx amo

britlude

23-07-2007, 09:28 PM

you're still looking, me too, I've had these on watch on ebay for at least 4 months! I just don't need them yet!

NSXGB

24-07-2007, 07:28 AM

you're still looking, me too, I've had these on watch on ebay for at least 4 months! I just don't need them yet!

Ditto that. With my belt change imminent, I'm going to order some headers soon, these are looking favourite at the moment.

britlude

07-09-2007, 01:10 PM

i've just got my ebay headers, shiny stainless and look superb... really a shame to hide them in the depths of the car!!!!

well, I'm off to fit them, wish me luck! :-)

NSXGB

07-09-2007, 01:15 PM

....have you finished yet? :)

britlude

07-09-2007, 01:48 PM

it's been 5 minutes... that's a little quick for even me!!!!! I'm trying to take my time!

TheSebringOne

07-09-2007, 03:44 PM

Maybe take some pics too? How many hours do you estimate to complete? :)

07-09-2007, 04:59 PM

Good luck with the install.

britlude

07-09-2007, 06:35 PM

right, 4 hours in! the story so far.... fighting with the joys of 15 year old nuts and bolts, where the heads appear to have dissolved! strongly recommend a set of 6 pointed sockets.. even had to go and buy some specially!!

as it stands now, the exhaust is on the floor, bloody good too as it weighs a ton! manifold shields are off on the front, and one of the rear (there's 2 on the rear), needs a wobbly extension to get the last one off as the drive shaft is in the way! getting one in the morning! the front manifold down pipe unbolted fine, the rear one wouldn't shift, no matter what. got one bolt undone, can just get onto another but not shifting, and no hope for the third, so out with the hacksaw, and one cut later the exhaust is off!... manifolds tomorrow, and put it all back together! should be fun taking off the front cross member/engine mount! i'm trying to leave the air-con pump in place!

should be done tomorrow, and i'm replacing all the bolts on the rest of the system while it's off... they all need cutting off with a grinder and that'll never happen in the car!

did I mention how heavy it is????

good fun tho!!!!

Silver Surfer

07-09-2007, 08:36 PM

Sounds all too familiar ehh (Kevin: KevSpeed)

SS

Kevin

07-09-2007, 08:39 PM

Yes, well if you put your photos up, Britlude might get some guidance.:)

Silver Surfer

07-09-2007, 08:40 PM

Ok, there's stacks of them. I put them up later when I get home.

SS

Kevin

07-09-2007, 08:51 PM

Take off the aircon pump. It only takes mins.

I also take the cross member off first, as you won't know if the nuts on the two studs have seized.

Have you got ratchet ring spanners? They are the best tools to get the engine mount off.

SS will confirm, I have every tool known to man.:)

Silver Surfer

07-09-2007, 08:55 PM

britlude

07-09-2007, 09:07 PM

i save the flamed ones for special occasions! yup, have ratchet spanners, been doing the research on prime, know most of the pitfalls, just taking my time as nothing on this weekend, tho have stripped the car away from the garage door, so I can get the hotrod out just in case!

the only thing i haven't found, on any of the writeups, is anyone mentioning supporting the engine when the cross member and engine mount comes out!!!!

after 15 years, the rusted bolt's were expected, didn't expect the heads to have disolved tho!!

Kevin

07-09-2007, 09:12 PM

No need to support engine. It won't fall out just by removing one mount!

I don't take the mount apart. Take the mount right off the engine. When you come to refit, fit the cross member, then jack up the engine to meet the mount again.

The rear wheels move out once the cross member is off. I needed to strap the side frames to pull them back so the cross member can fit. It may depend whether you have the car raised up and resting on the chassis, or sitting on the wheels.

britlude

07-09-2007, 09:19 PM

ok, thanks for that!

07-09-2007, 10:30 PM

Ok, there's stacks of them. I put them up later when I get home.

SS

What brand did you get?

Silver Surfer

07-09-2007, 10:56 PM

Just these manifolds and decat pipes.

SS

08-09-2007, 06:30 AM

How did you extend the 02 wires?

britlude

08-09-2007, 07:35 AM

I got the ebay headers from price-specialist (in canada I think) they are they same as the Delubozparts, as I suspect it's the same people, just another name. cost me £390 delivered....

they are 'top speed' brand, polished (what's the point?) stainless, which I think is a comptech copy. they come with engine gaskets, cat gasket ring thing, cat bolts, and O2 extension wires.

i'll take some pics once it's all out!

after feeling the weight of the exhaust box, i may be making something to replace it later!

Kevin

08-09-2007, 09:11 AM

How did you extend the 02 wires?

I fitted them. Firstly we used new O2 sensors from Sparkplugs.com. They have the long wire on both sensors. The front sensor was the only one that needed lengthening further. I got a four way connector, cut the wire off the old sensor, at the sensor end, and cut the plug off the new sensor. Join the two wire together to make it longer. I found these when I did my own car, sensor wires can't be soldered.

I also make and move existing brackets so the wires are supported and held in place away from the exhaust pipes.

08-09-2007, 10:28 AM

Cheers Kevin I'll pass that info along.

britlude

08-09-2007, 10:33 AM

another hour in, and the exhausts are all off... I dropped the front crossmember, but didn't take it right off, and unbolted the aircon pump, and moved it across about an inch just for clearance! not doing bad lying on the floor, with a pair of car ramps!

anyway... pix.... one with the exhaust, the cut offending pipe which is double skinned just to be awkward, and various other bits that had to come off, another with the new manifolds! the other is of the cats, which appear to have temperature sensors going to them, not seen them mentioned anywhere.... i've seen the second set of O2 sensors on later models, but no temp sensors... is this a JDM quirk?

08-09-2007, 10:39 AM

Is common on JDM cars to have the extra sensors, my NSX-R had them, and looking at his wiring so did Amos. They are not needed so leave them in the cats until MOT time when you put them back on.

I would love to try this but since mine is going for a major service, and they have to replace a lot of gaskets ( for peace of mind ) I'll let them do it.

I tell you I have a pit and the exhaust/cats were a whore to take off.

Apparently the manifolds come off easily...on some cars.

Great job BTW.

08-09-2007, 11:01 AM

Are you keeping the same back box?

After seen how restrictive that downpipe is I can't wait to get mine on!

Cheers,

AR

britlude

08-09-2007, 11:22 AM

at the moment the back box is staying, althought the seam on the driverside edge is starting to blow out. I'll buzz a weld around it before it goes back in. later i'll make myself a new system, taking the cats out too.

all the manifold nuts came off with no problems, tho the new socket probably helped there!

I know what you mean about the manifolds and down pipe, I mean, it just doesn't 'look' sporty!

TheSebringOne

08-09-2007, 02:23 PM

Keep up the good! Whats the weight of a OEM back box? What do you mean, you will be making an replacement!? A back box ? What make is the back box with quad tips. :)

britlude

08-09-2007, 02:56 PM

the back box is stock at the moment, with the now infamous halfords tips! later i'll make one using a couple of Borla boxes or something! I am a hot rodder after all, and i can't see how an exhaust box can cost thousands!

right... latest news, this is almost a web cam! another couple of hours.... the headers are in, fitted with room around them, though, getting the front header off with one downpipe is definately easier than fitting the new one with 3! no major dramas, but had to ratchet strap the bottom frames a touch to get the cross member back up.....

pix this time... the O2 sensor extensions, the header in! hurrah! (bit fuzzy, but you get the idea!)

just got to cut the old exhaust up to replace all the fastenings, make life a bit easier later!

Papalazarou

08-09-2007, 04:03 PM

They're so beautiful I want to cry. OK maybe not. But they do look very cool.
Well done on the diy installation.

Cheers,

James.

08-09-2007, 04:05 PM

Is the header touching on the cross member???

britlude

08-09-2007, 06:36 PM

it's the angle of the pic, the cross beam is level with the end of the header...

anyway, the exhaust is back on, car off the ramps, engine running again! hurrah, and all done by 7!

i would have been finished earlier, but I stripped the exhaust sustem, and renewed the fasteners, for when I get around to doing the exhaust again!

the stripping involved cutting off all the rusted nuts (I have some evil cutting disks, only 0.8mm thick, cut like a dream!) these were then replaced with stainless. the main box shield was given a quick coat of satin black, just to clean up the back of the car.

with the engine running, at tickover it sounds the same, as expected, but when blipped it definately has more of a sporty rorty edge! hurrah!

oh, and you can just JUST see a shiney bit of you look down the back of the engine!

britlude

08-09-2007, 09:35 PM

Take off the aircon pump. It only takes mins.

SS will confirm, I have every tool known to man.:)

i may have to out do you there... have you got any ratchetting open ended spanners?

I've seen them once, and bought them straight away! superb bit of kit! for the nuts where you cant get a ring on, and get fed up flipping the open-ender over because you only have 1/12turn travel!

Kevin

08-09-2007, 09:55 PM

OK, ok. Let's say then I have every tool I've ever needed.:)

britlude

08-09-2007, 10:07 PM

lol! what I didn't mention was the cats! their fixings are studs pressed in from the cat side, so they had to have the nuts cut off them (excuse the hideous imagery) then the head on the cat side had to be cut off and the remaining stud pressed out!

they were in there damn tight, and if cut flush both sides they would have taken some severe bashing to get out! and would have probably killed the cats! the new headers came with nuts and bolts, so they obviously have come across the problem before!

Kevin

08-09-2007, 10:13 PM

Nah. Heat them up, the studs pop out with not too hard a bash.

britlude

08-09-2007, 10:15 PM

note to self, must get a decent blow torch!

NSXGB

09-09-2007, 06:25 AM

Well done mate. Nice job.

Kevin

09-09-2007, 08:46 AM

note to self, must get a decent blow torch!
Yes didn't work with a propane one, I have a MAPP gas one now. I used to have the Halfords mini Oxy-Acetelene kit, but they don't sell the bottles or the kit anymore. That was really useful, and allowed me to braze.

robspeed325i

11-12-2008, 03:00 AM

thanks from the states... ;)

britlude

11-12-2008, 03:51 PM

over a year, used every day, and mine are still fine!!

the tone mellowed a little as the pipes 'sooted up' a bit.. ( as all stainless exhausts do!)

still pleased with them!

NSXGB

11-12-2008, 04:35 PM

the tone mellowed a little as the pipes 'sooted up' a bit.. ( as all stainless exhausts do!)

still pleased with them!

....ditto that, more refined after a few miles....

eclipse1501

11-12-2008, 07:01 PM

Ive got a new set of the later headers listed on the for sale section (Deluboz sent me by accident as I needed earlier ones) Bargain for anyone considering headers.

Lankstarr

16-12-2008, 06:42 PM

16-12-2008, 07:09 PM

I know this is a great mod for the earlier cars but is it worthwhile to do it to a 3.2 with the OEM headers?

It's only going to be worth it if it will make a decent amount of difference!

Thanks,

Luke

Luke they should in theory, but the OEM 3.2 are very efficient according to empirical data from Prime.