NSX-R Chassis bars

[AR]

Ouch what a pain in the neck to install. I have the benefit of a pit and airline, and it is still a dog of a job.

I will report on feedback tomorrow.

Cheers,

AR

[NSXGB]

What are you having trouble with?

[AR]

Just got back from a "spirited drive" through my back road with more bends than you can shake a stick at. What arush. Is almost ( except for the harshness from the suspension ) like being back in the NSX_R . My car is transformed!

The main headache was getting the radiator duct out. Moving all the bits out of the way to slide the radiator back. Trimming the duct. Test fitting everything. It was just too long ( 4 hours ).

But it is worth it!!!

[NSXGB]

Wow, you took the duct out....it's really easy to cut with a sharp stanley knife although I bet yours is a lot neater job than mine...

Apparently if you take the duct out, there are markings to show you where to cut it....

[TheSebringOne]

Ary, great news on the car handling improvements! I assume this was done without front bumper off? Did trimming the rad plastic surround take a long time? You did'nt get bars from SOS as they sell brackets with theirs, so no need to trim back? Are you posting a simple step by step guide maybe? Is it easier with a second pair of hands & this sounds daft, but does small hands & slim arms help? Thanks :)

[NSXGB]

Kowalski posted a guide to this a while ago...

You need the brackets which are part of the kit and you and always have to trim the duct.

[AR]

I tell you what lads having big forearms and big hands is a pain in the neck. If I had smaller hands I would have left the duct in place, but I wanted to be able to manouver, I also wanted to clean the whole lot.

I followed the instructions posted on Dali's site by MJK, but I also moved the rad out of the way. At one point I had the car on blocks over the pit and the bonnet was held by some string from a beam! I had to remove a tie down hok as I did not want to take a grinder to anything. My bottom bar was quite close to one of the AC condenser lines, so I put a rubber strip to act as a buffer before torquing the bolts to 69 Ft/Lbs.

I did not bother to paint the bars as they are hidden by the number plate.

Cheers,

AR

PS This is good info, if you got small hands!

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40094

[NSXGB]

Have you still got the standard ARB? Not much clearance between the bottom bar and the ARB? Loads of clearance if you put the type-r ARB on.

I had the same issue with the a\c pipe.

[TheSebringOne]

Thanks Ary for sharing your experience. You had to remove a tie down hook, what is this as you did'nt want to use a grinder! Hopefully my small hands will come in handy! :)

[NSXGB]

There are two tie down hooks, one bolted either side behind the rad duct. The brackets for the R bars use the same bolts that the tie down hooks use. You will find that you will have to either remove one or both of these tie down hooks to make the holes line up that connect the brackets to the actual R bar. All will become clear when you start the job...

[Kevin]

I found the standard anti-roll bar rubs the lower chassis bar. I guess its down to suspension height and how you drive the car, ie track driving may make the anti-roll bar turn more and hit the chassis bar.

I now have Dali track anti-roll bars and the lower chassis bar has had to come off. It won't fit at all.

[AR]

I did not have a problem with the Standard front ARB, I had the car in the pit so the wheels where on the ground and there was at least 6 - 7 mm of clearance. As pointed by Kevin, it might change during hard cornering.

I think the fact that these cars are/were handmade, makes for all the irregularities.

Cheers,

AR

[AR]

Thanks Ary for sharing your experience. You had to remove a tie down hook, what is this as you did'nt want to use a grinder! Hopefully my small hands will come in handy! :)

I removed the driver's side, since there is already a tow hook on the drivers side. These are tie down hooks for securing the car rather than actual tow hooks. BTW they weight a lot!

Cheers,

AR

[Kevin]

Yes, mine didn't touch either with the car stationary.

Well one bar is steel, the other is aluminium. When they rub, one is going to give way! I have a notch carved into the chassis bar now.

They will find their own clearances eventually.:)


I did not have a problem with the Standard front ARB, I had the car in the pit so the wheels where on the ground and there was at least 6 - 7 mm of clearance. As pointed by Kevin, it might change during hard cornering.

I think the fact that these cars are/were handmade, makes for all the irregularities.

Cheers,

AR

[dan the man]

these R chassis bars sound great. What was the damage?

[AR]

these R chassis bars sound great. What was the damage?

Very bruise fingers and forearms!

I think I paid about $ 250 for them from RJP.

[TheSebringOne]

Ary, as Simon & Kevin states, they will rub under heavy cornering or if you are tracking, so are you going to fit the Type R ARB to compliment the Type R chassis bar?

Kevin, how long you keep the R chassis bar and standard ARB combo, if you kept this set up, would the steel ARB eventually ware through the alu R chassis bar!?

[TheSebringOne]

Ary, whose RJP?

Dan, you can get them from the above or these

http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1033

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/Honda/NSX-R_chassis_reinforcement/default.asp

[Silver Surfer]

Same price on both site!

Wonder if Bazza do these?

SS

[TheSebringOne]

I was wondering that too! Maybe we should ask him? A GB maybe! :)

[bazza]

Same price on both site!

Wonder if Bazza do these?

SS


These are not a problem.. :)
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=3428

[Silver Surfer]

£163 for both?

SS

[bazza]

£163 for both?

SS

Yep..

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=3411
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=3428

[dan the man]

Bazzas ya man then ;)