Common Faults

[mutley]

Hi All, how about we start a list of common/recurring faults for the NSX here, and also the solutions that we have all found.

I think I have had a few and managed to repair most so for, maybe usefull for "newbies" to the NSX family.

1. Internal door handle break, - new fix it thingy from Dali fitted.
2. Snap ring - new casing available, but I opted to fit new snap ring, from HUK (£3.50).
3. Slow windows, - re-grease runners?
4. pop-up head light wobble - Tighten securing nuts via wheel arch.

Well that's a start.

Jim

[forumadmin]

5. Window regulators- plastic clip breaks - replace with Dali fixits
6. Speaker amps break - replace capacitors


You know, this isn't going to be a long list.

[mutley]

Maybe not, but that's a good thing. It's just the usual things that people ask about, TCS and ABS faults, but I have no idea about them!!

7. Condensation in the rear light clusters - remove and drill a few small holes underneath.

Jim

[modarr]

8.Crank pulley failure on early cars irrespective of mileage. Age related failure. This will become more common over time it seems. £466 HUK

[AR]

8.Crank pulley failure on early cars irrespective of mileage. Age related failure. This will become more common over time it seems. £466 HUK

I spoke to my mechanic and he said that is not just the NSX that it was common on the early accords or legends. He said that it was nothing to worry about, just like the water pump, inspect and replace if nessesary. He is one of the first guys to deal with the NSX in the UK. He only remembers changing one, and they used to be one of a handful of NSX authorized dealers.

[dan the man]

ahh throughb the wheel arch.. my wobbly geadlight does my head in..well people in front of me.

[amo]

9.HEADLIGHT SWITCH
take out resolder or u will have to replace

10. A/C HEATER UNIT
needs to be repaired pcb prob..

11. IGNITION PROB
needs new ignition swtich £50 from honda

thats all for now

[mutley]

ahh throughb the wheel arch.. my wobbly geadlight does my head in..well people in front of me.


See ? this thread is working already!

Yeah I tried all sorts to stop teh light "wobble" and once I found the mounting bolts after taking the wheel arch liner out and tightening thes up- no more flickery signs!.

Jim

[Papalazarou]

N/S wheel sensor = ABS/TCS lights.
O2 sensor = ECL and oftren TCS lights.


Cheers,


James.

[Mr_Spanners]

TCS Light - CEL code 3-4 (VRef Signal)

This usually relates to the main relay located on the rear bulkhead (near the TCS ECU). Either resolder the joints on the circuit board of the relay or replace the relay itself. This tends to affect early model cars.


Petrol Filler Flap not opening properly.

Check\replace the small black (metal) spring near the hinge. Sometimes you can bend this back to make it more 'springy'

[NSXGB]

Glad you posted that Mr S. My flap is just starting to stick a bit...:redface:



OEM spring is P\N: 74494-SL0-000 in case anyone wants to know.

[forumadmin]

Don't think the headlight switch is a 'common' failure.

12. Main relay - dry solder joints - can be replaced or repaired.

[DamianW]

13. Unlucky for some - getting to the stage of having to sell it :(

[kevinpsw]

I think this one counts.

Rear brake light bulb blowing and triggering the TCS and ABS lights. Replace bulb and then no problem!

[britlude]

don't forget boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness...

[NSXGB]

....that little fan in the centre console by the ash tray that gets noisy after a while....

[Martyn27_uk]

fixit on NSX Prime US tech forum

[Steveycaz]

....that little fan in the centre console by the ash tray that gets noisy after a while....
Is that a fan? I thought it was the interior temperature guage! That siad, my fans above the stereo are annoyingly rattly!

[Lankstarr]

Is that a fan? I thought it was the interior temperature guage! That siad, my fans above the stereo are annoyingly rattly!


ha ha - thought I was the only one with rattly fans!

Mine stopped through some miracle recently:rolleyes:

Add to soln to REAR LIGHT CONDENSATION - silica gel behind boot trim

15.736 - COOLANT THERMOSTAT also seems to have affected a few of us, symptom = car taking a long time to warm up.

who can be bothered to put the list all together nice and neatly then?:laugh:

L*

[NSXGB]

1. Internal door habdle break, - new fix it thingy from Dali fitted.
2. Snap ring - new casing available, but I opted to fit new snap ring, from HUK (£3.50).
3. Slow windows, - re-grease runners?
4. pop-up head light wobble - Tighten securing nuts via wheel arch.
5. Window regulators- plastic clip breaks - replace with Dali fixits
6. Speaker amps break - replace capacitors
7. Condensation in the rear light clusters - remove and drill a few small holes underneath.
8. Crank pulley failure on early cars irrespective of mileage. Age related failure. This will become more common over time it seems. £466 HUK
9. A/C HEATER UNIT - New caps required on pcb.
10. N/S wheel sensor = ABS/TCS lights.
11. O2 sensor = ECL and oftren TCS lights.
12. TCS Light - CEL code 3-4 (VRef Signal) - This usually relates to the main relay located on the rear bulkhead (near the TCS ECU). Either resolder the joints on the circuit board of the relay or replace the relay itself. This tends to affect early model cars.
13. Petrol Filler Flap not opening properly - Check\replace the small black (metal) spring near the hinge. Sometimes you can bend this back to make it more 'springy', P\N: 74494-SL0-000
14. Rear brake light bulb blowing and triggering the TCS and ABS lights - Replace bulb and then no problem!
15. Boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness - refurb or new.
16. That little fan in the centre console by the ash tray that gets noisy after a while - take apart and clean.


:)

[dan the man]

hmm fan in the centre console.. Bloody darn it i have a rattle and always wondered what it was.

So what does it cool? or just the electrics?

[britlude]

the fan blows air from the interior over a climate control sensor

[mutley]

the fan blows air from the interior over a climate control sensor

Ahhhh, I had to remove mine now that I have the CF console. Oh Well!


Jim

[NSXGB]

17. Little rubber buffers on rear underside of bootlid, fall off into recess below - retrieve and glue back on.

[mutley]

17. Little rubber buffers on rear underside of bootlid, fall off into recess below - retrieve and glue back on.


Rubber buffers?? am I missing something?

Jim

[NSXGB]

Rubber buffers?? am I missing something?

Jim



Probably, you'll have to take a look.....:)

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/trunkstoppers.htm

[Ciaran]

Hi All, I haven't posted in like years, but I still do my voyeur thing from time to time...

I treat the problem almost like putting fuel into it, but should..

18. Squeaky roof rubber on the "T", - I use a silicone spray, which works, but needs re applying very regularly. Any "T" owners got a better solution??

Have just fitted Dali anti roll bars, which make the car very tight.... but the roof noise has just gone up about 20 db...... I suppose the energy has to go somewhere...

[mutley]

This thread is doing really well, lots of top info on it. Once it seems to have run it's course I'll compile all the anwers onto one page. Should make things easier.

Jim

[Kevin]

Once compiled I'll make an article out of it, and put it up in the main menu for the site. Maybe add photos of the offending parts.

I assume newbies do check out all the links at the top of the page?

Though by the length of this list, I doubt anyone will want to buy an NSX again, look like a heap of trouble.:)

[AR]

Shrinking windscreen top moulding.

[mutley]

.............................Though by the length of this list, I doubt anyone will want to buy an NSX again, look like a heap of trouble.:)

Na I don't think so, you caould always have a note saying that with any car 15yrs + you can expect the odd wee thing wrong, and most of this list is fairly minor and can be repaired/corrected fairly easily/quickly.

Jim

[britlude]

at least the list doesn't have head gaskets (any K series rover!), con-rods trying to escape (common on M5 bmw), major electrical problems (anything italian!) and that sort of thing...

amazing what you find out when you have a friend who's a recovery driver!

[Silver Surfer]

Don't get to see much of your friend then Britlude !?!

SS;)

[mutley]

Kevin, I think we seem to have run out of minor common faults s I'll leave it to you to work your magic. Having had a look through, yeah there is maybe a few things on the list but it';s nothing that a little time and patience can't sort out, and nothing really bank-breaking either.

Jim

[Senninha]

Rear glass hatch rubber surround works loose, noticeably along lower centre edge. Most noticeable when car exposed to long periods in the sun ... so probably not that common ;)

Apply silicone sealant and push back into position.

regards, Paul

[Kevin]

The problem above reminds me of another. The dasboard is prone to cracking near the light sensor. The dashboard then squeaks. It's more common in the sunnier parts of the States than here though.

[AR]

The wheel well liners clips become brittle rendering any atempt to disassemble them destructive.

Bolts for the lip spoiler and the front number plate mounting plate, rust in place and require three hands to work loose without ripping the lower front balance.

Sun visors split open at the seams.

[rkanaga]

Before buying a new one (really £50 for a bit of rubber I ask you!) I experimented with stretching my one back to full length (ooh vicar!). It retracted back again after a few weeks and I repeated the process. It hasn't shrunk again so I dare say that if you simply pull it back to length a few times it might be ok? Failing that a small bit of adhesive or double sided tape at either end should stop it shrinking again for no cost.

Robin

when the final list is comiled, perhaps there could be list of DIY/ Dealer fixes at costs so that prospective owners can put all of this in perspective?

[TheSebringOne]

Stretching Rubber !! :cantlook::embarassed::laugh:

[NSXGB]

Kevin, I think we seem to have run out of minor common faults s I'll leave it to you to work your magic. Having had a look through, yeah there is maybe a few things on the list but it';s nothing that a little time and patience can't sort out, and nothing really bank-breaking either.

Jim


If you want some more then:


Horn buttons, a bit fraglie.
Euro Smile on the rear bumper. :)
OEM CD autochanger sticking.

[Senninha]

If you want some more then:


Horn buttons, a bit fraglie.
Euro Smile on the rear bumper. :)
OEM CD autochanger sticking.
I spoke with Kowalski about this one ... Remove OEM piece, re-install with strip of alluminium to bolt to and hey presto, smile should be banished. I haven't tried this yet but he certainly has no smile at the rear ;)

regards, Paul

[dan]

[quote=NSXGB;29176]1. Internal door habdle break, - new fix it thingy from Dali fitted.
2. Snap ring - new casing available, but I opted to fit new snap ring, from HUK (£3.50).
3. Slow windows, - re-grease runners?
4. pop-up head light wobble - Tighten securing nuts via wheel arch.
5. Window regulators- plastic clip breaks - replace with Dali fixits
6. Speaker amps break - replace capacitors
7. Condensation in the rear light clusters - remove and drill a few small holes underneath.
8. Crank pulley failure on early cars irrespective of mileage. Age related failure. This will become more common over time it seems. £466 HUK
9. A/C HEATER UNIT - New caps required on pcb.
10. N/S wheel sensor = ABS/TCS lights.
11. O2 sensor = ECL and oftren TCS lights.
12. TCS Light - CEL code 3-4 (VRef Signal) - This usually relates to the main relay located on the rear bulkhead (near the TCS ECU). Either resolder the joints on the circuit board of the relay or replace the relay itself. This tends to affect early model cars.
13. Petrol Filler Flap not opening properly - Check\replace the small black (metal) spring near the hinge. Sometimes you can bend this back to make it more 'springy', P\N: 74494-SL0-000
14. Rear brake light bulb blowing and triggering the TCS and ABS lights - Replace bulb and then no problem!
15. Boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness - refurb or new.
16. That little fan in the centre console by the ash tray that gets noisy after a while - take apart and clean.


:)[Door seals whistle at 100mph ( happened on both my nsx's )]

[britlude]

:)[Door seals whistle at 100mph ( happened on both my nsx's )]


door glass need re-aligning/adjusting... it did it on mine if i went over 75 until i set the glass to the factory specs.

[simonprelude]

Another newbie ??

Hello...

Mine whistle at 130mph but I use it as a wake up call and safety feature :)




:)[Door seals whistle at 100mph ( happened on both my nsx's )]

[markdas]

Guys, does anyone have a pic of this Eurosmile issue with the rear of the car, sounds like a thing to look out for as a potential buyer.....thanks

[jaytip]

Guys, does anyone have a pic of this Eurosmile issue with the rear of the car, sounds like a thing to look out for as a potential buyer.....thanks
It's not really that big a deal,honest.

[markdas]

Okay, I understand now thanks....hmm DTM tailpipes....first I have seen on an NSX...quite nice

[Bob Holmes]

15. Boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness - refurb or new.

Posted gas struts to http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts/standard-range.php
got them back 2 days after posting, £12.50 each plus P+P plus Vat, just like new, cheap as chips.

[Gary]

Oil pressure gauge sender?

[mutley]

Oil pressure gauge sender?

Good point, I think mine is on the blink!!!

Jim

[Gary]

It looks easy to change but I've been quoted £150+ from Honda for the part.

Does anyone know of a cheaper source? Is the same part fitted to other Honda or non-Honda cars?

Cheers
Gary

[NSX100]

This may or may not be a common fault but it is niggling nevertheless.

I cannot get the rear window to latch closed. When I apply pressure above the latch there is an audible click but when I release my hand it pops off again. Obviously, the latch needs adjusting but in words of 2 syllables or less, how is this best done??

Thanks,

David

[Sudesh]

This may or may not be a common fault but it is niggling nevertheless.

I cannot get the rear window to latch closed. When I apply pressure above the latch there is an audible click but when I release my hand it pops off again. Obviously, the latch needs adjusting but in words of 2 syllables or less, how is this best done??

Thanks,

David

Take a look first at your "engine bay lid", make sure the rubber seal is seated correctly and nice and tight against the lid. [Not the seal on the glass hatch, but the seal on engine bay lid]

If it is then yes try adjusting the catch, adjusting the catch is a trial and error process, you dont have to lremove the bolts but rather loosen slightly [dont remove] and tap the catch gently up or down, be careful not to over torque the bolt when tightning again.

Other things to check is the boot release handle is seated correctly and not catching the trim and also that the cable is not stuck or jammed.

I'm working on a Nissan 300ZX at the moment and the boot was doing the same thing, turned out that one of the boot trims was catching the cable and everytime the boot was closed, it would spring up again.

[NSX100]

Thanks Sudesh. Kneading in the rubber rim of the engine cover around the latch did the trick. It seems that when I open the engine cover, the fit between its outer edge and the window's lower edge seems almost air-tight such that I have to push in the rubber seal a tad to get the latch to lock. All part of the learning experience!!

[Sudesh]

Thanks Sudesh. Kneading in the rubber rim of the engine cover around the latch did the trick. It seems that when I open the engine cover, the fit between its outer edge and the window's lower edge seems almost air-tight such that I have to push in the rubber seal a tad to get the latch to lock. All part of the learning experience!!

No problem! Although shouldn't have to do that everytime you open the hatch. If you do then you may look at adjusting the engine cover, quite simple to do also.

[Thunder]

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75746

hello friends , that made a long time that I n' but, I did not post am always, considering this topic, that made fear, my NSX has 162000km, have a good address to buy this pulley and all the kit distribution in Europe or with the United Kingdom , it is better to change this pulley before breaking the engine!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Thunder.
Not sure I understood your post but additon to the post on Prime, you can find some info from post #90 in the following link;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=6286&page=9

and post #92 in the link below;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=6286&page=10

Parts No;
13811-PR7-A02 for MT
13811-PR7-A11 for AT

You need different pulley holder tools for MT and AT.
HEX 45mm for MT
HEX 50mm for AT

You can replace the pulley without disturbing the timing belt or the lower cover. Just needs to re-adjust the tension on both ACG and A/C belts.

Make sure to follow the latest greasing/cleaning procedure on the pulley bolt. Otherwise, you'll really struggle to remove it in the future.


Regards,
Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Also, if you are struggling to get hold of the parts, you may want to try contacting Andy at Vtec Direct Ltd. You can find the link in the 'NSXCB Vendors' section of this site.

Regards,
Kaz

[Thunder]

merci beaucoup, ma langue est le Français, le traducteur Google est tres mauvais, merci pour les renseignements!

thank you very much, my language is the French, the Google translator is very bad, thank you for the information!

[candyman]

can't park it inside my house.

[Nick Graves]

I think your house requires adjustment.

[c11nky]

I can't believe no-one's mentioned this one or found a satisfactory solution:

17. Slight whine from the nearside around 4,000 rpm, increasing steadily in volume until it becomes unbearable just before the red line.

One of my friends suggested a 'divorce' (whatever that is), has this worked for anyone else?

:laugh:

[Problem Child]

LOL

I wanted a divorce but couldnt afford it!

[AdvansCPAP]

- turn signals don't cancel
- ac evap leaks
- abs cycles
- ac tensioner squeals and whistles
- bad end links on sway bars may cause clunking sound

[NSXGB]

Corrosion to electrical plug contacts (due to moisture), behind door lining and boot carpet. Treat with some silicone grease.

[Sonic]

Anyone have problems with blocked windscreen washers? There are a couple of 1way valves in the pipes under the bonnet. These seem to get blocked easily as do the washers themselves.

[havoc]

Yes. I replaced an elbow-valve a couple of years ago for precisely that reason. Very simple to do though, and nice, easy access.

[swhatley82]

So, 2012 was the year I finally got my hands on my dream car! Being a honda enthusiast this was the pinnacle of ownership, but I wanted to ensure I got the most out of the ownership experience, hence the reason I joined this forum along with a few other driving networks.
We've had many a blast on the b-roads loving how she handles, but I've always craved a European tour of some sort with like-minded folk.
So in June 2013 we snapped at the chance to join a group of 20 drivers on a euro tour to remember, traveling first through France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Italy, to Monaco and then back, throughout this tour we'd visit the senna memorial at Monza among many other memorable places, traveling with the likes of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bugatti Veyron etc...
As you can imagine, I had the NSX thoroughly serviced, cam-belt, new discs & pads, new tyres etc etc, to ensure I had the complete piece of mind nothing could go wrong, after all, she is a bullet proof Honda NSX!
So, on Day 4 of the tour, we left Brescia swiftly joining the motorway heading towards Monza, I felt something was wrong, I squeezed the accelerator to find there was no power, no noise, silence.... I brought the car to a gradual standstill on the hard shoulder scratching my head! Once we were towed to the local Italian garage, my heart sank, I could easily translate the words NO COMPRESSION, disaster.
Finally after weeks of waiting, it was the middle of July 2013 when our NSX arrived home, I was gutted, I knew it was some sort of engine failure, but couldn't afford to put it right ASAP, so she stayed in our garage for 5 months!
In December 2013, we took her to our specialist, who advised we were so so unlucky, it was a CRANK PULLEY FAILURE, I looked on the forums to find if anyone else had the same experience, with quite a few pictures & posts of their experiences dotted around. Science of Speed (USA) along with many other experts, advise to change this component every 10 years/100,000miles whichever the sooner. My NSX had done 71,000 miles in 21 years, and had never been touched, hindsight is a wonderful thing!
The bonding part of the Pulley had decayed over time, which catapulted into the teeth of the timing belt, causing that to seize, equalling bent valves!

On a positive, we have all the necessary parts on order, and the NSX should be back on the roads by the end of May/June, I cannot wait!
More on this story to follow..............

if you would like me to post a few pics of the Euro-tour, I'd be happy to post.

[andystevo]

Bad enough but could have been worse I suppose. Always try to take a positive from a negative!

Got me thinking - my car is 13yrs old / 18,000miles but still with original crank pulley.
The crank pulley went on my daily driver (BMW diesel) last year - nothing worse than 150miles on the back of a breakdown truck and a £350 bill from my local garage.
What's the approx. cost / delivery time for parts for the NSX? And how involved is the replacement - could I trust the local garage mentioned above (I've used them for years to do routine repairs on all of my cars) or does it have to be Honda (I use Phoenix Honda in Linwood, still NSX specialists, but they don't get in many in these days).
The Europe trip is only 5 weeks away...

[havoc]

Ouch, not good. Hope the rebuild goes well...are you taking the opportunity to tweak/upgrade a few things, or keeping it stock?

Crank pulley has been mentioned on here a couple of times (know Kaz is aware of the risk - he changed mine), but it's one of those things that does bear repeating - hopefully someone else will spot this tale and get it done before they have any issues.

[NSXGB]

I would get it done ASAP. The job can be done without removal of the timing belt so not too bad. You need a tool to hold the crank pulley while the very tight pulley bolt is removed - your local Honda dealership should have the tool. UK price for the pulley is £483.10 if your car is MT, but I would see if you can source one from Adnan or America which should be a lot cheaper. Wouldn't think you would get charged more than 1 hour labour (have to remove the aux belts too). Part number is 13811-PR7-A02

Failing that, there is a damper pulley protection plate you can buy from the USA for about $100 which installs between the CP & TB belt cover which will stop it chewing up the TB if the CP fails. Not sure how readily available they are now though.




Bad enough but could have been worse I suppose. Always try to take a positive from a negative!

Got me thinking - my car is 13yrs old / 18,000miles but still with original crank pulley.
The crank pulley went on my daily driver (BMW diesel) last year - nothing worse than 150miles on the back of a breakdown truck and a £350 bill from my local garage.
What's the approx. cost / delivery time for parts for the NSX? And how involved is the replacement - could I trust the local garage mentioned above (I've used them for years to do routine repairs on all of my cars) or does it have to be Honda (I use Phoenix Honda in Linwood, still NSX specialists, but they don't get in many in these days).
The Europe trip is only 5 weeks away...

[britlude]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-NSX-Legend-NA1-NA2-crank-pulley-brand-new-OE-/141205061605?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e07a3fe5

be aware auto and manual cars have different pulleys....

[swhatley82]

This is the Pulley I purchased from Science of Speed
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/Honda/crankshaft_pulley/

This is the Pulley shield as a safety net for the 'what if's'
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine%5Fperformance%5Fproducts/NSX/Cedar%5FRidge/Damper%5FShield/

Even if you're considering it, just get it done

[swhatley82]

Ouch, not good. Hope the rebuild goes well...are you taking the opportunity to tweak/upgrade a few things, or keeping it stock?

Crank pulley has been mentioned on here a couple of times (know Kaz is aware of the risk - he changed mine), but it's one of those things that does bear repeating - hopefully someone else will spot this tale and get it done before they have any issues.

Im obviously replacing all the bent internal parts, but I thought whilst she is open I'll do a little refresh, so here is my list...

Internal Engine Components
*ScienceofSpeed Dual Valve Spring Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Titanium Valve Spring Retainer 24 pc Set
*ScienceofSpeed Dual Valve Spring Base 24 pc Set
*ScienceofSpeed 36mm SS Intake Valve Set
*ScienceofSpeed 30mm Inconel Exhaust Valve Set
*ScienceofSpeed Multi-layer Stainless Steel Head Gasket
*ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit



Intake & Exhaust
*Gruppe M V3 Exhaust (Already fitted)
*Decatted (Already completed)
*Comptech Sport Header System
*Downforce Stack Carbon Fiber Intake System
*ScienceofSpeed Over-Bore Throttle Body


Chassis Reinforcement
*Honda JDM Rear Lower NSX-R Lower Chassis Reinforcement Bar
*Honda NSX-R Front Upper Chassis Bar & Bracket Kit
*ScienceofSpeed NSX-R Chassis Bar Spacer Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Adjustable Anti-Sway Bars
*Cedar Ridge Fabrication Sway Bar End Links, front pair & rear pair with turnbuckle
*Okuyama Rear Shock Tower Brace

Suspention & Bushing
*KW V3 adjustable suspension
*Cedar Ridge Non-Compliance Front Pivot Clamps
*ScienceofSpeed Steering Rack Bushing Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Non-Compliance Toe-Links
*ScienceofSpeed Non-Compliance Rear Beam Bushings Kit

Engine Management
*Full remap once all items are installed

Misc items
*ScienceofSpeed Engine Hatch Struts (pair)

*Shorai super lightweight battery (Only 7lbs including casing)

[andystevo]

Thanks for the links guys.
I've just bought the pulley advertised on ebay - the part number checks out ok.
I called Phoenix Honda, who quoted £620 all-in but said the pulley is on back order and unlikely to be available before end June.

[Mistercorn]

The pulley shield looks like a very good idea, at a reasonable cost. This is something I will be doing as soon as I get a car to do it on. One to ask about when buying a car as well. This is exactly the sort of information that I look for as a prospective owner, I'm sorry it has come about through your unexpected opportunity for improvement on your car though swhatley82.

MC

[WhyOne?]

I should be used to this by now but goodness, that is a big price difference between the US and UK for the crank pulley.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wesUV9lfhr4/U0UH3GXOP-I/AAAAAAAAP1E/WtB7HKXk-V4/s640/IMG_0055.jpg
Interesting enough, I posted this photo in my blog yesterday morning.

By now, most of the NSX owners are aware of the common faults and weak points of our NSX but if you are a new owner within the last few years or thinking of buying one, then probably not familiar with these well known issues.

(By the way, swhatley82, if you are thinking of writing your own NSX build thread, you may want to change the subject title to represent your NSX.)

Since this is your 'Build' thread, I won’t go into too much detail but please replace the crank pulley at the time of every TB service regardless of the annual mileage.
In Japan, it is a must item to be replaced at the time of every TB service at any NSX specialists.

The shape, design, feature are different between MT and AT model so it’s hard to tell when exactly it’s going to fail but you can do a quick check by looking at it from above as described in the following link.
Parts No. difference between the MT and AT are also included.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service&p=72032#post72032


The story behind the crank pulley and my view on the crank pulley shield.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service&p=74144#post74144

It's not just acting as the damper but also it's there to shift the resonance frequency for TB protection so while you can install the shield, it's best replacing it regularly and never allow it to fail.


As mentioned at the beginning, if you are a new owner or thinking of buying one, you may want to go through the items in my NSX Technical and Service Information Index (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?8732-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index) and the same information Index No.2 (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?9724-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index-02) that will cover major points of our NSX.


I ordered new one from Japan last week so at least it was in stock at that time.
For the removal/installation, it will require different locking tool between MT and AT spec.
Please make sure to treat the crank pulley bolt per the workshop manual on installation. Otherwise, it will seize and you will have big time when trying to loosen it next time.

It can be replaced at any time without touching the TB related parts so no need to open the engine.
Please replace two AUX belts (ACG & A/C) at the same time if these were not replaced at the time of last TB service or within the last several years.

I better stop now as it's getting too long for your build thread......

Kaz

[swhatley82]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wesUV9lfhr4/U0UH3GXOP-I/AAAAAAAAP1E/WtB7HKXk-V4/s640/IMG_0055.jpg
Interesting enough, I posted this photo in my blog yesterday morning.

By now, most of the NSX owners are aware of the common faults and weak points of our NSX but if you are a new owner within the last few years or thinking of buying one, then probably not familiar with these well known issues.

(By the way, swhatley82, if you are thinking of writing your own NSX build thread, you may want to change the subject title to represent your NSX.)

Since this is your 'Build' thread, I won’t go into too much detail but please replace the crank pulley at the time of every TB service regardless of the annual mileage.
In Japan, it is a must item to be replaced at the time of every TB service at any NSX specialists.

The shape, design, feature are different between MT and AT model so it’s hard to tell when exactly it’s going to fail but you can do a quick check by looking at it from above as described in the following link.
Parts No. difference between the MT and AT are also included.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service&p=72032#post72032


The story behind the crank pulley and my view on the crank pulley shield.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service&p=74144#post74144

It's not just acting as the damper but also it's there to shift the resonance frequency for TB protection so while you can install the shield, it's best replacing it regularly and never allow it to fail.


As mentioned at the beginning, if you are a new owner or thinking of buying one, you may want to go through the items in my NSX Technical and Service Information Index (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?8732-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index) and the same information Index No.2 (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?9724-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index-02) that will cover major points of our NSX.


I ordered new one from Japan last week so at least it was in stock at that time.
For the removal/installation, it will require different locking tool between MT and AT spec.
Please make sure to treat the crank pulley bolt per the workshop manual on installation. Otherwise, it will seize and you will have big time when trying to loosen it next time.

It can be replaced at any time without touching the TB related parts so no need to open the engine.
Please replace two AUX belts (ACG & A/C) at the same time if these were not replaced at the time of last TB service or within the last several years.

I better stop now as it's getting too long for your build thread......

Kaz

Once again Kaz, your words of wisdom are welcome on any thread, maybe I should have started two, one for the problem/issue and one for the future build, but hey-ho.

Once I get the pictures back from the garage, I will post the pictures of the damaged Crank pulley & the slightly bent valves.

[NSXGB]

Maybe we should move this thread into the 'Prospective New Owner' board?

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?3444-Common-Faults

[swhatley82]

Maybe we should move this thread into the 'Prospective New Owner' board?

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?3444-Common-Faults

Thats cool with me, not sure how to do this though

[pralognan]

The crank pulley design is quite different for MT and AT cars. Is the risk of failure the same in each case?

[nobby]

Yes i believe so. its to do with the bonding of the pulley; as it gets older it like everything else weakens over time.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rfpjbQ6W_J4/U0lGHa7qjFI/AAAAAAAAP3k/yKRREErZ6IE/s640/AtMt01.JPG
From this side, the crank pulley design looks quite different between the MT and AT spec.

The AT model requires larger diameter in order to spin the ACG at faster rate due to higher current consumption under extended long period of brake light activation such as in the traffic jam.



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PKz2bWse6JI/U0lGIMaIaLI/AAAAAAAAP3s/dIK6KSIUGI4/s640/AtMt02.JPG
However, from this end, both looks similar so the bonding method/design is identical and thus, the risk of failure would be similar from design point of view.


However, the biggest factor on pulley weight separation issue is the rapid change in rpm.
Typical example is the frequent sudden big rpm changes during the track session.

Therefore, the owners who track their NSX regularly will replace the crank pulley at shorter interval.

Under normal street driving condition, the rpm change rate/speed/slope would be lower on AT engine than the MT one so it is probably safe to say that AT crank pulley will be generally in better condition than the MT one under normal street driving condition.
Some AT owners in Japan installed 3.2L C32B engine on their AT NSX and regularly tracking their NSX happily.
They are replacing the pulley at shorter interval.


Added to this rpm change rate, the heat and age will play big part and hence, must item to be replaced at every TB service regardless of the annual mileage.

Based on the data I have, I won’t trust any crank pulley more than 10 years old even with just the street usage.

Kaz