Fitting Nsx R Stab Bars?

[jamieburke]

Anyone have some pics and or descriptions?

Fitting mine tomorrow as car is stripped in bodyshop, so its a bit last minute

thanks guys

jamie

[AR]

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/download/pdf_article/nsxr-bars-install.pdf

Hope it helps,

AR

[Senninha]

Fitted mine yesterday, took a couple of hours.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40094&highlight=chassis+bar

I used the attached notes for guidance but saved time using Kevins radiator release method. Simply remove the top two brackets and the rad can be pushed back

Also, I didnt remove the cowling but instead cut it with sharp stanley in situ. Theres a good photo in the link to show you what to cut.

I dropped the drivers side bracket only and it was a perfect fit. If not supplied with your kit you may need to supply a couple of M8 bolts for connecting the upper bar to the brackets.

Lower bar is literally 5 minute job. Note of caution - some owners have reported that this bar may rub on the anti roll bar if you have the standard one on your NSX. I have the NSX-R so no issue for me.

Depending on how stripped your car is, you may be able to remove the cowling?

Hope this helps

regards, Paul

[AR]

Lower bar is literally 5 minute job.



Unless you are mee, in which case you will spend half an hour looking for the torque value...


























































































69 LBS

Cheers,

AR

[Senninha]

69 eh ;) ... fact or favourite number :laugh:

I simply reversed the amount of torque needed to release the bolts ...only joking! I did my homework before starting the job ... :)

regards, Paul

[TheSebringOne]

Ary thanks for the SOS instructions as I did'nt know they provided fitting details!

Paul, cheers for the link. I was going to post a reply to Ary's thread to alert you, DTM, Silver Surfer and Mark C!, but you beat me to it! What do you mean you only have to drop driver's side bracket? why not both? I will be going the same route as you as advised by Kevin as I think DTM may have gone Ary's route by removing the Rad feed undertray (cowling) as it took ages!

Ary, what happen to your Torque thread as a big blank?!?

[AR]

It was for effect to denote the long time it took me to find it, as I had to wash my hands first, remove dirty shoes, remove clothes as I could not seat anywhere in the house as dirty as I was. As it happen to be the last thing I decide it will be safe to go back to the garage and get down in the pit to torque it wearing just my trusty white fronts! As I was emerging from the pit in my Hommer Simpson custom, my brother in law arrived, and asked if everything was OK, with a concerned look on his face! :)

Bless him, he is not a petrolhead, does not understand that when the need arrives clothing is not a requirement to work on cars.

The benefits of rural living.

Cheers,

AR

[Senninha]

Paul, cheers for the link........... What do you mean you only have to drop driver's side bracket? why not both?

You have a few option James,

1. leave both in place and cut bar to fit
2. remove one bracket and it fits perfect
3. remove both brackets but you will need to pack behind them to align to the bar fixing points ( I may still do this)

I would strongly recomend leaving the duct and cutting where it is. A new blade in a stanley and it cuts really easy. Just remember Ary's tip ... measure twice and cut once.

Good luck, Paul

[TheSebringOne]

:eek: Pit, torque and white fronts! :laugh: Thats enough! :laugh:

[AR]

:eek: Pit, torque and white fronts! :laugh: Thats enough! :laugh:

Well if there is a naked Chef...

[nigel]

The job is a piece of piss. Just take your time. There is a lad at NSXPrime named, MJK, posted a step by step thread, where I got my photos and instructions. Just do a search. He did a pro job to help the rest of us. Follow his instructions. I didn't even loosen radiator. Had to remove radiator inlet duct to trim though. Eight bolts, all accessable.
The lower bar really does take just a few minutes.
Turn on music, fill pint, get comfortable. Remember, measure twice, cut once!!
Don't forget to paint the front bar black or it will stand out through the radiator intake opening. I used high temp, semi-gloss, grill paint after 600 grit emery cloth to give the paint something to stick to and put it in the oven at 200 f, for 15 mins and let cool to help harden the paint. Looks the business!!

Cheers
nigel

[jamieburke]

ok thanks you,

but why would it rub on the anti roll bar, i don't understand?

jamie

[AR]

ok thanks you,

but why would it rub on the anti roll bar, i don't understand?

jamie

It might depending on the type you have,

It will become clear once you have a go.

Cheers,

AR

[Senninha]

It might depending on the type you have,

It will become clear once you have a go.

Cheers,

AR
They are different shapes all be it located by the same bush and end points. If ti does rub then Dirk has the ARB on January sale at present.

regards,

[jamieburke]

where are the anti roll bars listed on dirks site? Do they go under other names? THe americans talk of sway bars is this the same?

I'm going to be pissed off if i try to fit these and they hit off the anti roll bar....

Am i putting aomething on my car that was not designed for it and is going to need a plethora of other ****e to make it work properly?

TYPE R seems to work great when its an actual car, not whenever its bits and pieces...

Thanks, i wouldn't have know this stuff otherwise!

Jamie

[TheSebringOne]

Jamie, I would'nt worry as those who have fitted the lower Type R chassis bar under the battery box, state they only slightly rub the front ARB under heavy cornering or tracking and should be ok. If you are worried about the rubbing either get Zanardi or Type R ARB instead, but I don't think you need them.

[TheSebringOne]

Cheers Paul, just to clarify the 3 options for us mere mortals! :D

1. Keep both tow hooks brackets, by removing bolts placing new bar brackets on top (both sides), bolt in & then shave/grind a few mm of both ends of the bar to fit as gap is now narrower bewteen new brackets.

2. Remove driver's tow hook completely, why drivers? Does it matter you have 1 tow hook as oppose to 2? Bolt on new bar brackets and no need to shorten the bar at all.

3. Remove both tow hooks? (pack washers behind) Why would you do this? You need at least one tow hooks don't you.

Cheers ;):)

[nigel]

The brackets everyone keeps refering to as "tow hook" aren't tow hooks at all. The tow hook needs to be screwed into the front of the bumper after you remove the small acess panel in the face of the bumper. These brackets are actually tie down eyes for shipping from the manufacturer to their delivery destination. All you need to do is remove one of these so the bar will sit flat on its mounting plane. It doesnt matter which one is removed. I removed both just in case some twit trys to use them for towing purposes if i'm not around and **** up the underside of the front bumper or spoiler with a cable or chain trying to use them as such.

Cheers
nigel

[Senninha]

Cheers Paul, just to clarify the 3 options for us mere mortals! :D

1. Keep both tow hooks brackets, by removing bolts placing new bar brackets on top (both sides), bolt in & then shave/grind a few mm of both ends of the bar to fit as gap is now narrower bewteen new brackets.

2. Remove driver's tow hook completely, why drivers? Does it matter you have 1 tow hook as oppose to 2? Bolt on new bar brackets and no need to shorten the bar at all.

3. Remove both tow hooks? (pack washers behind) Why would you do this? You need at least one tow hooks don't you.

Cheers ;):)
As Nigel says, these are transport tie downs NOT toe hooks.

1. spot on
2. the drivers toe hook screws into the bumper. Minus one bracket equals perfect fitment
3. the brackets are @5mm thick - this is what the washers/packing will need to replace.

James, just my opinion from your questions, but if you're not mechanically minded then it may be safer / easier / better option to find someone to do this for you.

Jamie, ref the Anti Roll Bar (ARB). First item on this post from Dirk http://nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=4210 I already have the ARB so cannot comment from personal experience if it hits, but as above, I have been told that it might.

HTH,

regards, Paul

[AR]

The hooks are also heavey as well so they sure won't be missed. In my case I also left one, just in case I ever need to flatbed the car and they need something to tie it down on the front.

Cheers,

AR

[NSXGB]

As already stated the bottom bar may slightly rub the anti-roll bar (or swaybar)....not a problem though. I drove mine a while like this with no adverse effects.

I would advise getting the roll bar anyway, it's one of the best value mods you can do IMHO.