View Full Version : Door Card repair
mart155
11-01-2008, 04:29 PM
Anyone have any tips or tricks for repairing the plastic tabs where the screws go through the edge of the door cards.
Quite a few of mine are snapped off and it is held with large washers.
Anyone have any tips or tricks for repairing the plastic tabs where the screws go through the edge of the door cards.
Quite a few of mine are snapped off and it is held with large washers.
I think that is what most people seem to do. I think that the section with tabs that you are talking about is a separate section, and perhaps it can be ordered? Other than that it will be Epoxy and some aluminiun tabs cut to the same size.
Hope that helps,
Cheers,
AR
duncan
13-01-2008, 05:31 PM
Assuming these to be the mounting tabs that radiate outwards on the bottom and sides of the door card. The plastic is re-weldable with a flat tipped or blade type tip on a soldering iron. Splits and breaks can be repaired by heating the edges and just pushing the two bits of soggy plastic together. If you havn't the missing bit of plastic try to carve out and rob a bit from elsewhere.
mart155
15-01-2008, 03:26 PM
Thanks, I will give it a go next time I have to remove them.
Possibly when I decide what to do about my door locks :)
Anyone have any tips or tricks for repairing the plastic tabs where the screws go through the edge of the door cards.
Quite a few of mine are snapped off and it is held with large washers.
You will find that most *** door cards of this vintage will have the optional fall to pieces as soon as you touch them theme, a trip to the local scrap yard will get you a doorcard off of 'something' which can then be epoxied into place as has been said. There were only two or three holding mine on IIRC but the seal and the returns on the card will provide most of the support.
Trident
21-01-2008, 10:09 PM
I have just tried repairing the mounting lugs on one of the door cards on my old girl (1991)
Here's how it went.
I found some similar plastic and cut out some cirles using a hole cutter, which also made a nice centre hole for the screw. Then I trimmed them to fit onto the remains of the lugs (4 in total) and glued them on using Araldite.
Everything went well until I tried to shut the door! It would appear that the fitting of the door is so critical that the extra thickness of the reinforcing plastic makes the door harder to close. Not good!
Next step is to try and slim down the new lugs. Bugger!!
Perhaps the door card didn't quite go back as it should have and needs resetting. I hope!
I'll report back when I solved the problem.
The good news is that I used silicon spray on the window rails to fix the slow operation of the passenger door window. It now works a treat and in a race with the drivers door it won easily. Now that means the drivers door window should be done as well. I also noted that the original plastic cable anchors are still in place after 17 years.
Trident
mart155
21-01-2008, 10:33 PM
Many thanks for sharing this Trident, please do report back.
I will be interested to know how well the Araldite holds up under pressure and movement.
mutley
22-01-2008, 08:42 AM
Yup, I know the feling, this is anoter little job I hae on my "to do" list, all the ones are broken on my drivers door ( meaning the only thing holding it on is the screws for the door handle).
Now, I was going to try something along the lines of building up lugs with fibre glass then driling screw holes.
But I'll be happy to hear any other solutions people come up with.
Jim
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