more power ??

[amo]

well i dont know what to do arhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

ok want more power do i go for
9lb pulley, remap should get about 450-480bhp = £1000
or
12lb pulley full rebuild get about 600ish bhp = £6000ish

help meeeeeeeee lol

thx amo

[jamieburke]

you've gone this far.....why not do it right?

Forge it and up the boost- have a real supercar slayer.

If you spend a grand you know you'll only be happy for about 10 mins....

then you'll wish you spent the other 5....:D

Did you sell the intake piping btw?

Good luck with the decision

Jamie

[amo]

no mate still got it.

ya i know what your sayin but need a daily drive as well but mmmmmmm yes i could just save that 1k and finish the engine instead of blowin it up as iv sold the other 1

thx amo

[Papalazarou]

no mate still got it.

ya i know what your sayin but need a daily drive as well but mmmmmmm yes i could just save that 1k and finish the engine instead of blowin it up as iv sold the other 1

thx amo

It might help you get past those £700 Protons a bit easier!!


Cheers,


James.

[amo]

It might help you get past those £700 Protons a bit easier!!


Cheers,


James.

lol
never wanted to show him up, i prob would have stuck it in the wall lol

thx amo

[TheSebringOne]

What BHP are you getting at present Amo? I'm no bank manager! 1K to get to 450-480 sounds reasonable, but 6K for another 120-150 more bhp to get 600 bhp is serious dough & power! Also more power mean big bucks if the engine lets go too!

[mutley]

Amo, lets face it you know, I know, we ALL KNOW, you'll go for it.

It's already been said, if you go for the the nine you'll only wish you had gone for the 12 so cut out the middle expence and go straight for the max!.

Jim

[Papalazarou]

Go for the 9 baby!!! the 12 would hurt the old girl!



Cheers,


James.

[Senninha]

Hi Amo,

What do you want the extra power for?? Might sound like a dumb question I know, but if its just for a front cover story then you need to go with the 12lb and rebuild.

On the street you are unlikely to really use more power effectively. On the track it may give you higher top speeds and if tractable then possible more out of the corners.

From our track experience at CC, I would suggest spending the money on brakes and losing weight. Over the last couple of laps there was no noticeable difference between us other than your NSX cornering much flatter. This coupled with better knowledge of the track gave you slightly higher cornering speed, but on the drag out of the corner we were holding positions. Under braking I was able to note I could brake later.

I'm not sure what you're producing in hp at present, and would be interested to know what effect the 'silencer' has on the number.

If you're commited to an upgrade, then my vote is for the 9lb with the extra cash on brakes and weight reduction.

regards, Paul

[amo]

ok im running 400 at the moment

if i do go for the 12 it would be on a rebuild only
9lb well that will be just a go

not for any big cover but well just want want want

as iv sold the other engine so money for that will go on the new

thx amo

[Papalazarou]

Paul,

with regard to going better on the track, the Friday and Saturday sessions taught me a lot; First of all, and echoed out in the recent suspension thread; the standard car rolls a fair bit which in Robs case among other things lead to roll in oversteer and eventual spin(thanks Markc).

Additionally, and as you mention, the brakes; now understandably it's easier to follow and guage braking and turn-in accordingly, so that's part of the equation.
However, after racking Darrens brains last night, he came up with a few things that made a lot of sense.

First of all, we often throw money at things too hastily when there are other things we can do before the AP racing brakes are fitted.
Basically, changing brake fluid to higher boiling point product, braided hoses, different pads, perhaps diferent grooved disks, but perhaps most importantly, trying to achieve greater cooling for the disks so that the brake judder and fade some of us reported is reduced.

Finally, lack of knowledge of the track is a humbling thing; Amo, Ian and I were challenged and sometimes passed by some pretty standard stuff on friday. The cars were running great corner speed and were braking later. I know this is partly an experience thing, but the CRX we watched on a Skyline session was passing 400-500hp 4WD stuff on what is considered a pretty quick circuit.

If I keep my car, the first two things I'll be doing is brakes and suspension.

Cheers,

James.

P.s, sorry for the tangent.

[simonprelude]

Car set up and driver training are pretty much needed for a start unless your car is lacking through some fault.

It's nice to have a lot of power, especially for the pub bragging rights etc.
It just means you have to come into the pits kicking your car and scratching your head when 130 bhp Protons aren't easy to get around.

One of the quickest cars I saw on the Saturday at Japfest was a White 3G prelude with sunroof welded shut. I think the car is pretty much standard power wise, just set up well with a driver who knows the track.

[SILVER BULLET]

Paul,

with regard to going better on the track, the Friday and Saturday sessions taught me a lot; First of all, and echoed out in the recent suspension thread; the standard car rolls a fair bit which in Robs case among other things lead to roll in oversteer and eventual spin(thanks Markc).

Additionally, and as you mention, the brakes; now understandably it's easier to follow and guage braking and turn-in accordingly, so that's part of the equation.
However, after racking Darrens brains last night, he came up with a few things that made a lot of sense.

First of all, we often throw money at things too hastily when there are other things we can do before the AP racing brakes are fitted.
Basically, changing brake fluid to higher boiling point product, braided hoses, different pads, perhaps diferent grooved disks, but perhaps most importantly, trying to achieve greater cooling for the disks so that the brake judder and fade some of us reported is reduced.

Finally, lack of knowledge of the track is a humbling thing; Amo, Ian and I were challenged and sometimes passed by some pretty standard stuff on friday. The cars were running great corner speed and were braking later. I know this is partly an experience thing, but the CRX we watched on a Skyline session was passing 400-500hp 4WD stuff on what is considered a pretty quick circuit.

If I keep my car, the first two things I'll be doing is brakes and suspension.

Cheers,

James.

P.s, sorry for the tangent.

Hey James, speak for yourself :laugh: the only thing that passed me was a fully preped integra track car,couldn't do much about him.:)

On Friday I was fortunate to have 20 minutes instruction ,this gave me another 10mph at the two fastest parts of the circuit,agreed suspension and brakes will improve handling ,however most of us just need a few hundred more track hours and a bit more talent:rolleyes:

Cheers,

Ian

[Senninha]

Additionally, and as you mention, the brakes; now understandably it's easier to follow and guage braking and turn-in accordingly, so that's part of the equation.
However, after racking Darrens brains last night, he came up with a few things that made a lot of sense.

First of all, we often throw money at things too hastily when there are other things we can do before the AP racing brakes are fitted.
Basically, changing brake fluid to higher boiling point product, braided hoses, different pads, perhaps diferent grooved disks, but perhaps most importantly, trying to achieve greater cooling for the disks so that the brake judder and fade some of us reported is reduced.

Spot on James,

And interesting that it was Darren who I spoke to several times regarding brakes and chssis tweaks. Listening to his advice and track experience I have made the following brake changes;
R groved discs
Mu pads
Braided lines
new fluid
over sized cooling ducts

What I noticed on track, compared to spirited road use, is that I suffered from no fade on Saturday, whereas on fast twisting b roads, the brakes will start to develop some fade.

As for the chassis, the mods are limited too
R front anti roll bar
2 x R chassis bars

The result is less understeer and body roll with an improved directness to the steering. I've left the rear as per OEM as this suits my driving for on road. On track it would of been an advantage if I had the the S rear anti roll bar, but I've avoided this as I find the 'softer' setting works better on road

The other point that none of us can deny is that of driver training and I will be looking for some of this in near future, but mayeb a bit more advanced than this http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/trackdays/index.asp?storyId=18109 ;)

regards, Paul

[Papalazarou]

Hey James, speak for yourself :laugh: the only thing that passed me was a fully preped integra track car,couldn't do much about him.:)

On Friday I was fortunate to have 20 minutes instruction ,this gave me another 10mph at the two fastest parts of the circuit,agreed suspension and brakes will improve handling ,however most of us just need a few hundred more track hours and a bit more talent:rolleyes:

Cheers,

Ian


The extra pace before Tower really made the difference for me also.
I might have to have another go at some point:-)

Cheers,


James.

[amo]

ok just to let every1 know im going for the 12lb
will be doin the engine build in nov
going to the states to pick up me some parts

thx for all your concern lol
thx amo