Replacement Clutch D.I.Y with pics

[mutley]

Hi all,

Sorry it has taken so long for this thread but I've finally got back online, the following pics were taken as we fitted the clutch the day before japfest ( for those who were there, and had a laugh of what was left of the old one!) and I will do my best to give a step by step account of the pics of the "surgery".

The pics are all about 1Mb so i'll do this in stages.

the main things to remember it that we only had couple of trolley jacks, axels stands and basic tools, so nothing specialist is needed ( even done an engine oil change while we were at it.) Sockets and spanners, from 10mm to 17mm

Firstly, drain the gearbox oil out, jack up, and support the engine from underneath, we used a trolley jack and a piece of wood under the sump to do this.
Pic 1. Veiw of the gearbox with the airbox removed, this is the best time to remove teh starter motor and clutch slave cylinder (if you can get at it).
Pic 2. Veiw from underneath, with subframe removed.
Pic 3. Wishbones disconnected, you need to do this both sides to remove the driveshafts, doing it this way means you don't have to faff about with CV joints and gives you more flexibility when removing/refitting the gearbox.
Pic 4. When removing the driveshafts, you may have to prize out with a screwdriver, BE CAREFULL not to damage the driveshaft oil seals, they are not that expensive but sometimes take a few days to get from HUK.

[mutley]

Pic 5. Wishbones and driveshafts disconnected on drivers side, you'll notice that this drive shaft is in 2 parts.
Pic 6. you can see the starter is removed (easier done from the top but 1 bolt in particular takes an age to come out as it it pretty long), and then tied out the way with a cable tie.
Pic 7. Plastic cover that houses the gear linkages, held in place by a few small bolts.
Pic 8. Now you can see your linkages exposed. These are held onto the gearbox by 2 little split pins, try not to loose these or get replacements. It can be quite fiddly to do, but easy enough.

[mutley]

Pic 9. Linkages removed.
Pic 10. Linkages tied back and now the gear box is ready to be removed.
pic 11. Where possible, tie as many parts back out of the way as you can as you will need as much room to move the gearbox as possible. REMEMBER to check that all the mutiplugs have been disconnected and labelled if necessary.
Pic 12. Rear engine mount tied back.
A this point you have to go round the gearbox and remove all teh bolts that hold it onto the engine, tehre are quite a few, so if you find that the gearbox does not want to shift, usually means that you have missed a bolt.

[mutley]

Pic 13. Gearbox removed, now this is the hard part. If the gearbox doesn't budge, we used 2 BIG screwdrivers to pry it out a little to get it moving, if his does not work, then it usually means that you have missed a bolt somewhere, probably somewhere round the bell housing. When it does move, be ready ad the gearbox is VERY heavy so prepare for the weight of it. You might get a little leakage of some gearoil that hasn't drained, no big deal but can be messy.
ALSO, you will notice that teh clutch fork can't be removed until teh gearbox has moved a bit, it might fall into the bell housing, don't panic, it won't go anuwhere and you'll get it once the gearbox is off, just remember when refitting, as it has to be fitted BEFORE the gearbox is full connected or it won't go at all.
Pic 14. New clutch, as first glance, both clutch plates look the same but they are not, stamped on the centre plateare the words "FLYWHEEL SIDE" on one and "MID SIDE" on the other. Make sure that these are fitted correctly.
Pic 15. for thoses who didn't see it, this was what was left of my old one!
Pic 16. Spot the diference!!

[mutley]

Pic 17. And finally with the cluch off, the flywheel is exposed. The clutch is held on by 9 small bolys and 3 locating pins. There is a small arrow/triangle on all the parts and these have to be aligned or it will not fit on. These marks are quite obvious to see when fitting.
Pic 18. the New clutch is assembled, flywheel clutch plate, mid plate, mid clutch plate, take-out bearing and preasure plate (the take out bearing goes through the preasure plate.
As both plates locate onto the splined shaft of the gearbox, they have to be aligned ( done by using a Honda Clutch Alignment tool..................or in this case, bit of brush handle to line everything up and 2 pieces of wire to line up the splines!) had to improvise a bit, but this method has worked twice for me now and on both occasions, was right first time.
Pic 19. New clutch inplace, ready to remove "alignment tool"
Pic 20. All ready fit the gearbox and basicly put your car back together again, which is just as above in the reverse order (just like what a Haynes manual would say).

It is not a job for the faint hearted, but just goes to show that you don't always have to relay on HUK or even an independant garage to do major work. Any questions please fire way.

Jim

[Senninha]

Hi Jim,

Are you sure that last clutch didn't have some life left in it? :laugh:

Thanx for the write, I'm not sure if I would do this (although I have done clutches in the past), especially in a day!

Drop me a pm with your availability and address and we can arrange to meet for the front spoiler

regards, Paul

[Silver Surfer]

Top job....how long did it take you? Can I book you for mine when mine needs doing?:D

SS

[AR]

Well done mate, you got ballz!

[TheSebringOne]

Big balls Ary I think!:D Jim, you are very handy pal, well done! Where did you source your clutch parts from? Is it a two man operation without a ramp? Shame you are live up North of the Border when at home, as there would be a Q for your services! :)

[NSXGB]

Does anyone know what Honda quote for the labour time for a dual plate clutch replacement?

[mutley]

Thanks guys, well it's maybe not everyones cup of tea, but like the odd challenge! As some of you know that's the second time I've had to do this job and the last time we even ripped the gearbox apart to replace the snap ring (yes we all know about that little problem) and to his day it is still working perfectly.

The clutch I got from Amo that came out of the 2007 Japfest crash, and as for Honda's labour charges, I have no idea but I can definately say we would undercut them by miles!!.

SBO I'm not up north, I'm still in Bedfordshire!!

I'm more than happy to give a hand/advice to anyone that fancies trying someting of this scale. Not sure what my next job will be, but I'll let you all know.

Jim

[amo]

well done mate nice write up and great pic's

thx amo

[DAVEMAT]

Excellent job & report, unfortunately I dont have the time or ballz to do it, got mine booked in for when I return, & the Honda price is ------- far too much, it's certainly put my paintwork on hold.
Parts & labour 1900 quid.

[WhyOne?]

Is it not worth your while to buy the parts in from the US Dave?

[mutley]

...................the Honda price is ------- far too much, it's certainly put my paintwork on hold...........................................Par ts & labour 1900 quid.


Buy the parts from the US and we'll come and fit it for you at a much better price!!

[markc]

Hi Mutley, Good job :)

Looks like you left the cross beam (ahead of the engine/gearbox) in place. It's MUCH easier to get at the front engine mount and some of the gearbox bolts if you remove this. It also allows the gearbox to drop straight down/up for easier removal/re-install.

Cheers

Mark

[mart155]

Great write up Jim.
The pics are a lot clearer on the pc than they were when we were trying to see them on your camera at Japfest.
Nice job.

[TheSebringOne]

Sorry Jim, forgot where you are these days, North, South or somewhere hot! :)

[nigel]

Nice job James!!
The pics really help.
I made copies so when mine is due ...
I've done Preludes at least 6 times as I have four I use for airport cars so i don't have to nick a crew car when I have time to kill, so the basics are there and the manual is the bible but real life pics make it so much easier to recogonize the bits.
As James said, get the parts from the states, 1-888-RAY-LAKS, ask for JR, in New York, They will give you the best price plus shipping and go forth. It's not a hard job, just fiddly. Be sure to get a clutch centreing tool.
Thanks James.

Cheers
nigel

[DAVEMAT]

Is it not worth your while to buy the parts in from the US Dave?

Yeah, it would have been, but I there are a few problems with this at the moment, which I won't go into.
The only upside is the parts are there waiting for me now, and as soon as I get my date for returning to the UK, it will be booked in, and done, therefor minimum time without the car, especially seeing as the ZX is a bit sick at the moment aswell (it never rains!!!!!)

[NSXGB]

Nice job James!!
The pics really help.
I made copies so when mine is due ...
I've done Preludes at least 6 times as I have four I use for airport cars so i don't have to nick a crew car when I have time to kill, so the basics are there and the manual is the bible but real life pics make it so much easier to recogonize the bits.
As James said, get the parts from the states, 1-888-RAY-LAKS, ask for JR, in New York, They will give you the best price plus shipping and go forth. It's not a hard job, just fiddly. Be sure to get a clutch centreing tool.
Thanks James.

Cheers
nigel

Just for info....
I got a quote for a twin plate clutch kit (inc. TOB) from Ray Laks and the price was $1397.73 + $275 shipping.
The place on ebay is $1250 + 210 shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220178458208&rd=1

I might have to go to the US again later this year for a holiday.....

[nigel]

Consider the pound is still nearly 2 to 1 to the dollar, that's around 750. quid. Still not to bad for OEM parts.
Anyone checked with Barry?

Cheers
nigel

[NSXGB]

Another FYI....

Just rung round for some quotes for fitting the 91-96 clutch kit.


Norton way quoted 5.4hrs @ £74.95 per hour + vat.

Chiswick Honda quoted 6 hrs @ £79.95 per hour + vat and recommended an extra hour (!) for rear alignment.

Plans Motorsport quoted 8-10 hrs @ £59 per hour +vat.

[mutley]

Another FYI....

Just rung round for some quotes for fitting the 91-96 clutch kit.


Norton way quoted 5.4hrs @ £74.95 per hour + vat.

Chiswick Honda quoted 6 hrs @ £79.95 per hour + vat and recommended an extra hour (!) for rear alignment.

Plans Motorsport quoted 8-10 hrs @ £59 per hour +vat.

Yep, I can safely say that we would undercut those prices!!

Jim

[TheSebringOne]

So when are you setting up your new garage " Mutley's Autos repair" then Jim! :)

[mutley]

So when are you setting up your new garage " Mutley's Autos repair" then Jim! :)

It's very tempting for when I finish my time in the RAF, so watch this space!!

Jim