Batteries and stuff

[Clive]

My Optimate is telling me that my battery is ill. Actually, I don't believe it as the car starts well enough and the volts on the dash show over 12. However, if it is about to go, what sort of battery should I get? Currently it's a Varta. Do I get a Honda battery (ie OEM)?

Two other things: on my last run out on Sunday, I noticed some condensation on the inside of the engine cover window on the passenger side. But I couldn't see any obvious moisture sources within the engine bay (ie from the coolant header tank, etc). Any ideas? Also, I noticed a sort of light roaring sound from the rear of the car when trundling in 40mph sounds on light throttle. It seemed to be transmission noise, and not wheel bearings. Is this sypmtomatic of anything. The gearbox oil was changed 3 years/3,000 miles ago. Thanks.

[simonprelude]

Battery, I have a Varta and all seems fine, turn on all lights etc a/c stereo then start the engine, if all's well and good leave it alone.

Mositure - I have started putting the moisture absorbers ontop of the engine hatch cover when the car isn't going to be used for a while, then the moisture on the rear window seems to not be a problem.

As for the noise - change the gearbox oil anyway, this will probably degrade over time as well as use the same as all other oils.

Just drive the car, it will be happier :)

[GREG NSX]

I have a JDM NSX-R Battery in my NSX and I am very happy with the NSX-R Battery !They weight 9,2 kg. Procar Specials sells they !
Best Regards Greg.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

1. Battery
Optimate is quite reliable and good charger. However, when you get the Red light (battery NG), try another 2 or 3 recharge cycles before deciding it is a bad battery. Some of the batteries showed green after a few recharge cycles and they survived another season.

How old is your battery?

It is difficult to judge the state of the battery as it depends on the number of charge/discharge cycles, environment (temperature, vibration, etc) and so on. As a guidance, it would be a good idea to replace it every 5 years for MT model. Spreading the cost of the battery over 5 years and considering the potential inconvenience/extra cost, I think it is a good investment. For AT model, I will consider replacing it earlier than MT one as I won’t be able to crank the engine by pushing the car in gear. You may be able to jump start it but I don’t want to drive the car with question mark on the battery.
You can buy Honda battery but it is manufactured by Panasonic, Yuasa/GS, etc so well known aftermarket one is good enough.
By the way, if you want to double check the result of Optimate, you can have your battery load tested at your local garage/store and quite often, they offer you the sevice at free of charge.

2. Condenstaion
Quite common on our car. It was caused by the combination of moisture (rain, mist, etc) within the air and the weakened rubber seal around the engine maintenance lid (if you still have it or not using the meshed type). I use de-fog chemical on the internal surface of rear hatch glass and it seems to work for me.

3. Noise
Without looking at your car, it is difficult to understand the exact source of the noise. Sometimes, the noise that was thought to be from the rear was actually from the front or the side.
How old is your car and what is the mileage?
Any other information on the specific condition (rpm, any other seed range, AT or MT, gear pos, etc) when you noticed the noise?
If it is MT, which MT oil do you use?
Do you track your car?
Do you use different setup on tyre/wheel/alignment/etc?
Any other modifications?

If it is a mechanical noise, transmission is one area to look at.
It seems that you are happy with the wheel bearing.
Drive shaft is another area to check if you track your car or your car is old or with high mileage.

Any extra information will help us to provide you with more advice.

Thank you.

Regards,
Kaz

[TheQuietOne]

http://nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=4922

3. Noise
Without looking at your car, it is difficult to understand the exact source of the noise. Sometimes, the noise that was thought to be from the rear was actually from the front or the side.
How old is your car and what is the mileage? Think it's a '96 with 9,000 miles or so on it!
Any other information on the specific condition (rpm, any other seed range, AT or MT, gear pos, etc) when you noticed the noise? It's a manual 3.0.
If it is MT, which MT oil do you use?
Do you track your car? He barely drives it let alone tracks it :eek:
Do you use different setup on tyre/wheel/alignment/etc? I'd think not
Any other modifications?

If it is a mechanical noise, transmission is one area to look at.
It seems that you are happy with the wheel bearing.
Drive shaft is another area to check if you track your car or your car is old or with high mileage.

Any extra information will help us to provide you with more advice.

Thank you.

Regards,
Kaz


If Clive's past posts are anything to go by we might be waiting quite some time for a reply to all these suggestions chaps! :)

[TheSebringOne]

On the battery front check out a wholesaler. Its probably made by Yuasa as think they are the largest manufacturer in the world? Other brands just stick their own labels on. Then get a trickle charger that feeds enough to cover inactive use & alarm/immobiliser, not sure if you need those fancy battery conditioners?

For once theres someone who does even lower mileage than me! :D

[Clive]

Okay guys - I'm back. caught you out....!! Thanks for the advice.

On the battery - thanks for the tips. It will probably be VARTA again, but I've tried the cycle again and it's now Green again!!

On the condensation, then if some of you get it too, then I'm less worried. It does clear, but I will try some of those silica bags anyway. On simon's point about "just drive it", I agree totally and worry continually about the fact that it's mothballed most of the time, albeit in very nice conditions. I live in my garage most of the time actually, it's that pleasant. The trouble is I have two pleasure cars and seven motorbikes all vying for time, and I seem to be at work all the time with little to spare. Don't talk to me about selling some. We all know I should but the trouble is they're all too nice and the bikes are virtually worthless anyway...nice position to be in though.

On the noise front, I think the main thing to do is to get the gearbox oil changed when it goes in for a major belt service next year and see what happens. As most of you know the car has only done 9000 miles and never tracked and usuallly driven spiritedly but smoothly. Incidentally, the MoT station went mad when they saw underneath it. Even I was gobsmacked. It looked as though it had never been out on the road (even though it has). More generally, the interest shown by all of the garage shows that NSXs are still very highly regarded out there. Aren't we lucky?!

[dazarooney]

Thanks for the advice on batteries, I'm after a new one and this has helped me greatly.

[TheSebringOne]

Hi Darren?, since this thread was last used 3 years ago, are you a new NSX owner?

If so, may be you like to introduce yourself? Any details on your car & which battery are you getting?

I notice you have Yuasa Batteries on your profile, are you a seller?

Thanks

[NSX 2000]

Thanks for the advice on batteries, I'm after a new one and this has helped me greatly.


Hi Darren?, since this thread was last used 3 years ago, are you a new NSX owner?

If so, may be you like to introduce yourself? Any details on your car & which battery are you getting?

I notice you have Yuasa Batteries on your profile, are you a seller?

Thanks

James as your last paragraph, I would guess this is a spam.

Paul if you also think this is a spam can you delete?

Paul.