NSX Health Check Service

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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No wonder why the pistons were so heavy to move. I’m afraid none of them were re-usable.

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In fact, none of the pistons on all four corners were re-usable.
All six pistons are going to be replaced with the new ones.

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I don’t think I’ll be re-using these hoses ….

Challenge continues…


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

While cleaning the brake callipers, wanted to finish the re-built of RH drive shaft. The inboard joint side was already done while I was working on the previous NSX so needs to finish the outer one.

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Cleaned the outboard joint and inspected the inner wall. You need to clean it to this level to inspect it thoroughly.

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Planting the tiny pin bearings with new grease and filling the housing up with extra grease before closing it.
All six rollers are now ready for the re-built.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Finished the re-built.

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So, something looked like this is now replaced with this one.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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The trigger teeth looks completely different now.

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Installed on the car.


Finished cleaning the brake calliper and in the process of refurbishment service.

Needs to push a lot as there are two NSXs waiting for the TB/WP services as well as full cooling system refresh. Some of the parts are already at my place…

Doesn’t help having two F1 Grand Prix events back to back….

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Brake system refurbishment.

While the outside of the calliper and bracket were very rusty, the internal wall was very clean.

Although we could have soda blasted to clean/remove the rust and powder/paint coated the calliper/bracket, we decided not to do so as we felt it would be better to invest into the future upgrade of the calliper to the later spec.

The surface of the calliper and bracket were cleaned as much as possible so that I can apply the specific material to the certain area. This will make big difference in preventing the rust from these areas until the next brake refresh service.

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Some of the parts for the Front side service. Double checking the installation by operating the pistons. Both pistons should move smoothly with the fingers.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Moving onto the Rear side. Some of the parts used for the service plus the parking brake mechanism. There are other parts inside the rear piston for this mechanism and we are going to use new piston so they will be replaced as well.

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Again, after the installation of the piston, it will be double checked by operating it. Important to set the groove of the piston at the right angle. Sometimes, I found the rear inner brake pad not operating properly due to the wrong angle.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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I don’t think I can re-use this slider pin (the lower one in the photo) so replaced with the new one.
All four callipers have new bleeder screw now.

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Didn’t feel safe to re-use the old tired rubber brake hose so requested Goodridge to build specific length hose for us.

The length is good for both original and later calliper spec and already tested on my NSX for many years using both type of callipers.
So, when the owner is ready for the upgrade, he doesn’t need to replace the brake hose again especially at the rear side.

Also, we decided not to replace the corroded brake pipes as we are going to replace them especially the Front ones during the ABS upgrade process in the near future.

It was very tricky to install the new hoses as the flair nut was completely seized to the pipe and thus, I had to rotate the hose side first, torque it to the spec without causing any kink when connecting to the calliper.


Still needs to finish the installation of the rear right wheel speed sensor, refresh of brake master cyl, torque the suspension bolts/nuts under 1G, ABS flush, replace Main Relay, replace engine oil & filter and service the Bose AMPs.

Aiming to return this NSX to the owner very soon and start working on two more NSXs. Both will go through the TB/WP/Valve clearance + cooling system service.

It’s going to be fun replacing more than 20 coolant hoses when it is cold…

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Additional photos from rear calliper installation.

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New rear brake hose installed.
Brake pipe and hose torqued to the spec using digital torque wrench.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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RH drive shaft spindle nut torqued to the spec.

New RR wheel speed sensor installed.
Honda discontinued this speed sensor for earlier models for RR side so you can only get hold of the later spec one.
You will need to modify the angle of one of the cable bracket before the installation.

When we are ready to work on the LH drive shaft, we will need to replace the trans case seal. It’s already leaking and in fact, I replaced it for another owner several months ago.

Push, push. I must finish this NSX very soon....

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Overhaul (OH) of Brake Master Cyl.

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Lots of residue was trapped at the filter so looked like the master cyl was not serviced for many years.

In fact, at the base behind the master cyl, it was leaking but as the leaked brake fluid stripped the black paint off the brake booster surface, the debris was blocking the seeping hole and hiding the issue.

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Master Cyl OH kit. Sometimes, it is quicker to replace the entire cyl as an assembly including the reservoir but this one was not too bad and saved the cost by overhauling it than replacing.

English manual states as ‘do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a new part if necessary’ and thus, no instruction on how to OH it.
In Japan, we used to be forced to OH it every 2 – 3 years by law so there is a specific manual in Japanese.

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Once overhauled, we need to double check the pushrod clearance. Although it is very unusual to adjust it, I have no idea whether someone touched it in the past or not so always check it.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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After bench bleeding the master cyl by tilting the cyl at specific angle, it is installed on the car. Pressure bleed the system, left it overnight for the leak check then test driving session followed by another pressure bleed and leak check.


ABS flushing.

While driving this NSX at low speed with window opened, I noticed that the ABS pump was operating almost like every 10sec so I knew the solenoids are leaking or the accumulator bladder is not holding the right pressure.

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Using ABS SST to release the high pressure fluid from the accumulator.

Flushed the system twice before moving onto the solenoids flush.

All four solenoids were not sticky and operated fine which is a good news.

Flushed the system again twice and waiting for the test driving session.

However, looking at the amount of high pressure fluid returned to the SST, as predicted, looks like we may have accumulator issue. As discussed, considering the usage of this NSX and condition of other ABS parts, it would be more cost effective to invest in the ABS upgrade than trying to replace the parts on this original system.

This will leave us with replacing the Engine Oil & Filter, Main relay and refurbishing Bose speaker AMPs, test driving session and another bleeding with leak check so hope to return this NSX very soon.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Replacing the Engine Oil & Filter.

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This NSX is mainly being used on busy road for short distance so I knew the amount of blowby gas would be significant.
Fortunately or unfortunately, the filler cap was not cleaned thoroughly and you can see the white residue behind the filler cap.
This is the moisture from the blowby gas.

Another reason to replace the engine oil regularly even for short annual mileage NSX.

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Removing the Eng Oil Filter.
To prevent eng oil from touching the suspension area and stiffener frame, I normally use plastic bag around the filter before removing it. Saves the time cleaning the area.

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New OEM filter and probably bit too cautious but to keep the same procedure, I always fill it up with the new oil before installing it.

New filter installed. Don’t put too much torque as you will struggle to remove it next time.
You don’t need big torque once the gasket has seated properly.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

While waiting for the old engine oil to drain out from the oil pan as much as possible, decided to replace the Main Relay.

Normally, it is easy to remove the horizontal upper interior panel behind the seat as you only need to push down on it and remove the three fixings.

However, on this NSX, it turned into another challenge session due to someone decided to glue down the panel to the firewall. After some investigation, it became clear that the only way to remove the panel is to apply enough force to break the glue even if it may take out the brackets or even damage the panel.
So, phoned the owner, explained the situation and got authorisation for taking the risk.

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Finally, the panel came off. The strange looking glue at the firewall. It was not even using the correct fixings/clips to glue the panel.
Need to re-plant the brackets back on the panel and use the proper clips for the instalaltion.

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The original main relay.
Although it didn’t show any issues, it was from week 33 & 35 of 1990.
New one is from week 18 & 20 of 2010.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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As in my old post, the original relay was using the old design with the spring whereas the new one is using the mechanical plate.
New one installed.

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Back to the engine oil.
Managed to extract further 300 – 400cc from the top.
New eng oil into the engine, fire up for leak check and adjusted the level later.


All four wheels are back on the car now and tyre pressure to be adjusted before carrying out the test driving session. Need to work on the speaker AMPs now.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Test driven the car for the first time after the mechanical services and bled the brake system once again and leaving the car on the lift overnight for final leak check.

Unfortunately, as suspected, the high frequency brake pedal kick back is still there but better than before the service. We need to work on the Left side drive shaft and rear left wheel speed sensor next time together with ABS upgrade.

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Re-soldered the original Main relay, applied conformal coating and it will be returned to the owner to be used as an emergency spare.

Fortunately, I had the spare clips for the rear upper trim behind the seat and the brackets were repaired overnight so installed it back on the car.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

The owner mentioned that the TCS On/Off switch no longer shows the green light at the housing.

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So, removed several panels to check the switch and it was clear that someone tried to do something in the past. There was a tape covering the switch housing.

The cause of the issue was someone pulling the connector plug without removing it first.
The receptacle connector on the circuit board was simply pulled away and there was not enough contact to the plug terminals.

This issue is quite common on other switches such as front/rear fog, headlight adjuster, etc located at the centre console.
When working on the centre console without disconnecting the connectors from these switches, you can easily pull the receptacle from the circuit board if you are not careful. Unfortunately, quite often, the switches will operate for a while until the vibration make enough gap at the terminals.

Pushed back the receptacle to where it should be, reassembled everything and now the green light at the switch is back and dash display now shows the ‘TCS OFF’ indicator properly.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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While removing the driver side door panel to access the Bose speaker AMP, I found the familiar sight of black glue at one of the door trim. Someone really loves this glue….
Also, there was a sign of glue at the panel behind the door handle as it was cracked.

One of the screw was not even tightened properly. Can’t remember whether the brass colour screw to be used here or at the forward side so need to check the parts list.

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Looks like someone struggled to put back the clear sheet behind the door panel.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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When the speaker box was opened, there was no AMP inside. No wonder why there was no sound from the right door.

Instead, someone tried to input the pre-amp signal from the headunit into the speaker but it won’t work like that….

So, installed the refurbished AMP that I provided the owner last year and now the audio is back at the right door.

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When I re-assembled everything at the RH door, I checked every switches and I noticed that the ‘Lock’ switch didn’t work.

Not sure whether it was working or not before I removed the door trim as it is possible that I may have damaged it when I disconnected the connector.

However, this is another common failure on our NSX when we deal with this specific connector. For some reason, Honda decided to use non water proof connector on this switch and because of this, the terminals just get corroded and break when we disconnect/connect it.

As expected, the middle terminal was showing green colour corrosion and internal part was broken.
Replaced the terminal with gold plated one, applied silicone grease and now it recovered the functionality.
Of course, I'm not going to charge for this repair.


So, just need to work on the left door and footwell speaker AMPs, wash the car, re-torque the wheel nuts, create the Photo CD and the service log book then return the NSX to the owner.

Next owner is already waiting to deliver his NSX to my place. It will be another TB/WP/Valve clearance and cooling system services while I must prepare myself for several meetings....

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Left side door speaker AMP.

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Once again, glue was used at the front sash to hold the triangle cover in place. These parts can be replaced at reasonable cost so not a big problem.

Someone decided to replace the entire plastic sheet behind the door trim with clear one.

The leakage from the capacitor was quite severe and corroded the AMP metal cover acting as the heatsink.
It was replaced with the refurbished one that I provided the owner last year.


The passenger footwell speaker AMP was also replaced.
The + terminal at the footwell speaker was not connected so no wonder why there was no sound from there.


Now we have beautiful sound from all four speakers.

Personally, when all speakers and AMPs are operating properly, it is good enough as an sport car audio system for me.


Now that we have the audio sound from the speakers, I noticed that once the audio head unit warms up, there is a sand paper like scratching noise even when the volume was turned all the way to zero.

This is exactly the same issue that I saw on the last NSX that I serviced and it looked to be capacitor leakage issue inside the unit.

Next time when this NSX is going to be serviced again, I’ll look into the head unit.


It was pleasure and good experience working on this NSX.

The owner wants to put this NSX back to how it should be and I hope all of the effort that I contributed this time will meet his expectation.

Looking forward to working on this NSX again for the ABS upgrade, LH drive shaft, audio head unit, etc in the near future.

I just hope the next owner will bring his NSX before it starts snowing this week….

Regards,
Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Had problem accessing the site last night so couldn't post this at that time.
Looks fine now....

Time to look after another NSX.
The service menu is carrying out the TB/WP/Valve Clearance with all four camshaft removed, Right side Driveshaft overhaul and Coolant system refresh.

As the owner had good method on getting the parts from US, I gave him the required parts list and most of the parts were sourced by the owner. There were four coolant hoses that were not available on LHD Acura model so these were ordered from Japan.

It saves some time and provides extra room while servicing the right driveshaft/TB when working on the coolant hoses at the Eng Oil cooler. There are only two coolant hoses there but for me, they are the most time consuming ones.


So, started with general inspection around the engine while removing the parts for the driveshaft and preparation for the compression check.

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Quite common on our NSX, oil was leaking from the camshaft cap seal. When looked from different angle, there seemed to be no oil leakage from the VTEC spool valve seal on both banks so they are not going to be replaced this time. They can be replaced together with the filter at any time without removing other parts.
Looks like I'm going to spend long hours cleaning the engine again... Another reason why I prefer taking the engine out even just for the TB service...

Based on the service history, the TB was replaced in the past but not the WP. The service schedule only states as ‘check WP at the time of replacing TB’ so quite often, the WP was not replaced during TB service on UK based NSX.
This NSX is still at low mileage for its age and it was still using the original WP. Because of this, the TB Lower cover was also still the original design with seeping hole without the pipe sticking out. These will be replaced to the latest design ones this time.

Initial check on the crank pulley bolt. The owner bought new one so it will be replaced anyway. The bolt was not greased properly during the last TB service so it required extra torque to loosen it but not too bad. There is no point in start removing parts for TB service if I can’t remove this bolt. If it’s too tight, just take your NSX to your local garage dealing with HGV. They normally have huge impact wrench with sub-tank attached to it. They can loosen it for you.
Greased it properly and torqued it back to the spec for warming up the engine for the compression check.

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36mm spindle nut at the right side driveshaft.
Seems like someone worked in this area in the past as there was a sign that the spindle nut was re-used.
Each driveshaft service kit includes new spindle nut so it will be replaced with the new one.

I have lots of spare spindle nuts any way. If you need one, you can have it for free if you can collect it from my place.

By the way, as same as the crank pulley bolt, if you have problem removing this nut, take it to HGV garage and ask them to loosen it for you with their sub-tank assisted huge impact wrench.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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As seen on other NSX, the camber adjuster bolt was already showing the sign of corrosion. It was not seized to the bush collar yet which was very good news. It will be cleaned and then thin coat of silicone grease will be applied at the time of reassembly.

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On old NSX, the bolt holding the rear toe control arm to the rear cross member can cause lots of trouble due to corrosion. If you can’t loosen the bolt applying just above the specified torque, it is best to disconnect the arm at the knuckle side.

In the past, I saw lots of cowboy repair works on this area and on one NSX, I decided to replace the rear cross member for the owner as I didn’t feel the previous work was safe.
On this NSX, it came off with ease and standard procedure was followed.

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Driveshaft came off and waiting to be cleaned before painting.

More to follow.

Kaz

[goldnsx]

There is no point in start removing parts for TB service if I can’t remove this bolt.


I guess Honda did it on purpose, that only people how are able to loosen that bolt should work on the TB.:)

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Preparation for the compression check.

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The battery was charged to full capacity overnight but before carrying out the test, the engine will be started and warmed up a little any way.

This is getting quite common on UK based NSX. Lots of leaves inside the engine bay especially around the Intake manifold area.

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Disabled the INJ and kept TH at WOT. INJ will be disabled while cranking at WOT but it is best to disconnect the connector to prevent the initial trigger of INJ.

Looking at the state of the TH butterfly, it seemed that someone cleaned it in the past. Not much oil mist from the blowby gas was observed.

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The owner told me that the spark plugs were replaced not long time ago. As they are well below the recommended service mileage and there was no corrosion at the insulator area, these will be re-used. No issues were found and all six looked to be burning very well.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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The IGN Coils. As seen on many NSX, the coils at the rear bank were more or less corroded at their metal core.
Especially, the IGN Coil at #1 Cyl was heavily corroded. While there was no misfire reported from the owner, it is recommend to replace at least #1 CYL IGN Coil as it already expanded and sooner or later, it will cause some problem, possibly at the most inconvenient timing.

Good IGN coil will look like this.

Hope the owner can get hold of the new IGN Coil some point in the near future from US.

Compression test showed standard figure for C30A engine.
The deviation between the cyl was at normal level and it should be minimised once the valve clearance is adjusted carefully.

#6 cyl showed lower figure than others but still well within the window so quite healthy engine.

#1: **2psi, #2: **0psi, #3: **1psi, #4: **8psi, #5:**0psi, #6: **5psi


From here, we just need to keep removing the parts while draining the coolant and try to remove some of the coolant hoses while they are still warm.

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New and old header tank.
Draining the coolant from rear engine block using long tube to prevent coolant touching the exhaust.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

As we are going to replace the coolant hoses and engine oil filter, it is best to completely take off the oil cooler from the car.

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So, first, drain the engine oil from the oil filter and then remove two coolant hoses.

After disconnecting the cable for one of the Oil pres sensor, the Oil cooler can be removed from the car.

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The area is now quite empty as the driveshaft and oil cooler were removed.

Removal of parts countinues…..

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Nothing special here. Just keep removing the parts…

After the compression check, I don’t need the battery so just disconnected it. It will also erase any ECL that I may have triggered during the compression check depending on the spec of NSX.

The battery conditioner is connected throughout the service to keep the battery healthy.

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ACG removed, checked the bearing and didn’t feel any rattle or noise which was good.

A/C idle pulley removed and again, no noise or rattle from the bearing so it will be re-used.

While the car is in the air, just removed most of the bolts at the TB cover, oil level gauge pipe, brackets, crank pulley, etc before loweing the car.


By the time when I am about to replace the WP, I would like to be in a position to carry out the leak check on cooling system using all the new hoses, tank, O-rings, gaskets, etc so replacing all the parts on the cooling system is the highest priority at this stage.

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Thermostat removed.
Part of the black molding started to deteriorate and it was the old original design so good to replace it this time with the latest one.

Nothing new and as seen on other NSX, some of the coolant pipes were corroded.
They will be smoothed out and all of the hose connection points will be applied with rubber grease during the installation of the new hoses and it will add extra protection against future corrosion.

You won’t notice this corrosion until you remove the hose so another important reason to carry out cooling system refresh at a certain interval.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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All the hoses from the engine bay, under the centre floor and the front compartment under the bonnet.

Addition to these, two hoses at the Oil cooler were already removed and there was another one at the header tank overflow port.

So, total of 23 hoses for this NA1 RHD MT non-DBW model.


Time to install the new hoses.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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New metal washers and O-rings for the Centre floor drain bolts and radiator drain/bleeder plugs.
Drain bolts at the centre floor pipes torqued to the spec.
Centre floor hoses installed and double checked.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Front section done. Going to keep the water valve cable disconnected until finishing the bleeding of the cooling system.

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Re-surfaced the thermostat housing and the cover.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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New thermostat installed.

Corroded pipes reconditioned.

Engine Bay hoses and the new header tank installed.

Two hoses at the oil cooler will be installed temporary just before performing the cooling system leak check.

So, almost finsihed with the cooling system refresh and moving onto the rest of TB service work.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

As seen on many NSX and also in the previous post, IGN Coils at the rear bank were corroded/rusted due to moisture passing through the IGN coil cover gasket.

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As you can see, there was clear marking on the rear bank valve cover that the moisture stayed there for long period.
This will happen on any NSX if the rear bank IGN coil cover gasket was not replaced or if it was not massaged with silicone grease at a certain interval.
Even just washing the car will cause the same problem if the gasket was already tired.

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Without taking the engine out, you need to be very careful on re-assembly or installation of most of the parts during TB service.
On this NSX, the Front Valve Cover gasket was dislocated during the re-assembly and being cut resulting in oil leakage around the engine block as well as allowing some of the oil into the inside of TB Mid and Lower cover.

Addition to this, in UK, quite often the WP is not replaced during TB service and the lower cover was being re-used. On this NSX, the expensive rubber seal was missing from the TB Lower cover. Glad that we decided to carry out the TB service this time before it’s too late.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Spent extra time cleaning the engine.

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Some of the before and after photos. Cleaned as much as possible.

After removing the mid covers and before going any further, I normally install the new seals/gaskets with small amount of liquid gasket to cure it in time for the re-assembly.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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So, new seals on the Front/Rear mid TB, Lower TB, Valve and IGN coil covers were installed.
Don’t ask me where these were done…. I promise that I kept the carpet clean.

Backed off the valve clearance adjuster in preparation for removing the four camshafts.
In the process of replacing the WP.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8106
The oil seal at the Crank shaft/Oil pump was very clean and no sign of leakage so it is going to be re-used.

As mentioned previously, the WP was never replaced during the TB service on this NSX. It was still using the old original design.
The position of coolant seepage hole was changed on the later design.

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The old design on the left and the new one on the right. The TB Lower cover is also different because of this seepage hole position.

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As the entire seal rubber was missing from the Lower cover, the WP driven pulley was somewhat rusty and some dirt managed to get inside the TB area.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Over the years, it is quite normal to see small amount of coolant seepage.

WP, Lower cover and seal rubber are going to be replaced with new ones during this service.

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Scrape off any corrosion from the mating surface of WP.

In the process of removing the old red sealant which is pre-applied to all of the WP bolts.

New OEM WP bolts with red sealant.

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New WP installed and torqued to the spec.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Temporarily, re-installed the Oil cooler base with remaining two cooling system hoses to carry out the leak check.

While testing the cooling system, started removing the camshafts holders, covers and camshafts.

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O-ring at the dowel pin under the #1 cam holder has to be replaced with a new one.

Looks like during the previous TB service, the original liquid gasket (white one) was not cleaned before applying the new one (black one). Another reason why I saw many engine oil seepage from the valve cover and camshaft black cap area.

As seen on all of the NSX, the black compound of CKP/CYL sensor was melting and running down the back plate.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Left the leak tester for more than 20min and not a single movement of the needle so I'm happy with the cooling system.

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Both Camshafts from Front bank are removed and being cleaned. Engine block ready for another cleaning session.

Rear bank to follow.


I better start cleaning the house as my boss is coming back and I still have lots of parts inside the house.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Been busy with other projects so couldn’t spend much time on this NSX recently but now I’m back.

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As seen on many NSX, the cable for one of the Oil pressure sensor was trapped in the past. It could easily trigger the low oil pressure warning light but the owner didn’t mention anything so probably the internal wire was fine.

If you take your NSX to the normal garage or main dealer, during standard TB/WP/Valve adjust service, your camshaft won’t be removed.
However, there are tiny-tiny oil jets and passages on the cam holders and over the years, it will accumulate the sticky debris from the blowby and so on.

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The dirty oil passage on one of the cam holder and this can be seen on almost all of the engines. You are relying on these oil passage and jets for the lubrication of camshaft and so on. Another reason to remove the camshafts and thoroughly clean the passage at the time of TB service.

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Front Bank and Rear bank camshafts cleaned and inspected for abnormal wear.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

It seems that the black liquid gasket that was used during the last TB service was applied without the surface being degreased. It came off by just wiping off with my fingers.

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Before and after cleaning the old liquid gaskets.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

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Applying Eng oil before installing the camshaft. Also, applying the oil to the rocker arms.

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Double checking the toque of camshaft pulley bolt.

Carefully tightening the cam holder bolts in sequence using the small digital torque wrench.

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Front bank done.

On some of NSX engines, the 5mm parallel pin punch won’t fit into the hole at the Front exhaust camshaft and the holder cover [Edit: when] it was set at #1 TDC. This engine was the same so had to move the cam just a tiny amount to insert the pin. We don’t use this hole/pin for the timing alignment and just using it to lock the cam to prevent any movement so not a problem.

Moving onto rear bank.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

While the server was down, I couldn’t update this thread as well as dealing with the PM. Although all of the owners were happy to be updated through this site, I may need to start looking into setting up my own blog in order to be able to update the owners on a timely manner. Also, I prefer using email than PM as it is much easier to manage so many communications every day.


As I’m bit behind the schedule, couldn’t take lots of photos.

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Rear bank camshaft, cam holders, pulleys installed.

New TB tensioner, spring and bolt. Tensioner installed.

8163
The owner bought a new crank pulley bolt and the key so these will be replaced on this NSX.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8164
New crank pulley. Quite often, this is not replaced during the standard TB service but for me, this is a MUST item to be replaced.

8166
Setting the crank shaft at #1 TDC by aligning the pointer on the TB drive pulley and the marker on the Oil pump.

8165
TB installed and to check the accuracy of the pointer on the TB lower cover, the cover and the crank pulley were installed temporarily.
As found on other early model NSX, there was tiny-tiny difference between the marker on the lower cover against the white mark on the crank pulley.

By the way, the accuracy of some of the OEM parts are getting worse.
For example, these were known issues on some of the MT parts, latest ABS modulator and so on. Also, some of the electronics modules are discontinued for the early models so you need to rely on people who can repair them than replacing them.

Removed the lower cover and crank pulley and in the process of one of the most important process, the tensioning of TB.
During the last TB service, it seems that the TB was not tensioned properly and thus, it was loose when I checked before start of the service.

Next is the Valve Clearance adjustment. Another very important stage and for me, the most time consuming process.

More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8170 8171
Before adjusting the tension of TB, just check again and again and again the alignment of four camshafts and the crank shaft.

In Japan, some of the NSX are running with wrong timing especially at the rear bank due to most of the places carrying out the TB service without taking the engine out.
Easy to make mistake on the alignment as well as lack of TB tension will result in jump of tooth when the car suddenly span off at the track or if sudden reverse torque was applied while the clutch was engaged such as engine stall at the steep up-hill.

Almost all of the reputable NSX specialist in Japan will be taking the engine out during TB/WP service as the owners tend to ask extra service at the same time.

8172
After adjusting the TB tension, installed the TB lower cover together with the Oil level dip stick tube and A/C idle pulley.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8175 8173 8174
On many UK based NSX, I noticed that the O-ring/seal at the TB tension adjuster bolt was missing. This is the seal and the part no is 90401-634-000.
Without the seal, there is a gap between the bolt and lower cover.
Once the seal is installed, it will prevent any moisture/debris getting inside of TB lower cover which may damage the TB in longer term.

8176 8177
Adjusting the valve clearance. Although I use the same tool each time, I prefer to adjust the actual feeling of the gauge by touching the metal of the engine to check the temperature. As it is very cold these days, a touch of difference will be applied. It is less than 0.01mm but still you can feel the difference.

Double checked the torque and the clearance on the Front bank and moving onto the Rear bank but I had to stop here for other project.

I was hoping to start the engine by now so looks like I’ll be working over the weekend…
More to follow.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8186
Rear bank valve clearance and lock nut torque double checked.

Start putting back everything in place.
As I always replace all of the rubber seals on the TB Lower, Front and Rear covers, they are very tight fit and always struggle to align the bolt holes.

8188 8187
In fact, on this NSX, I had to re-thread some of the bolt holes as a few bolts were not the original ones and also they were screwed in with wrong angle. I had to replace one of the bolt as I couldn’t achieve the specified torque.

If you are doing this DIY, one tip for you. Use your 5mm pin punch that you used for locking the camshafts at the Front bank to align the mid covers.

The length and the diameter is perfect to align the bolt holes on the TB Front and Rear mid covers and reduces significant time in installing these.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8189 8190
8191 8192
The new figure of ‘8’ O-ring installed for Oil Cooler base and used Honda bond on two of the bolts for securing the Cooler base.

These two coolant hoses are now permanently installed and secured.
Fit the old oil filter for the time being in preparation for fire up of the engine.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8193 8194 8195
Cleaned the four corners of the Valve covers and the mating surface before applying liquid gasket.

Front and Rear Valve covers are torqued down.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Spark plugs thread cleaned and applied small amount of copper grease before installation.
Small amount of silicone grease was applied on the IGN coil metal base.
These need to come off again after the first fire up for another compression check.

Vacuum test the cooling system again while connecting the O2 sensors, connectors and so on.

8196 8198
Oil Press Warning sensor cable re-routed properly and secured to the sensor.

And, fill up the system with Honda Type 2 Blue coolant.
For C30A engine, you can drain about 14L of coolant before disconnecting any hoses/pipes.
After flushing the system, disconnecting the hoses, thermostat, WP, etc and pushing out any remaining water with compressed air, the system is nearly empty.

By using the vacuum fill method, you can put just below 16L of coolant into the system and then another about 0.5L while adjusting the coolant level. C32B engine is slightly less than this.

Once happy with the state of liquid gasket and the oil level, fired up the engine for a few minutes, quick initial check around the car, warm up the engine and cool it down over night to adjust the coolant level.

Next, the compression check and the drive shaft.

8197
I want to wash the car but the rain water is frozen so I need to use the tap water.
I don’t know when I can carry out the test driving session as the local roads are still covered in snow...

More to follow...

Kaz

[goldnsx]

8193
Excellent work!
Just wondering: it this corrosion, the brown area?

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, goldnsx.

The brown areas are the mixture of corrosion and the colour of blowby gas deposit after cleaning it.

On early C30A engine, the fresh air is introduced to the Rear valve cover and the blowby gas is forwarded to the Front valve cover and then passed onto the TH body through the check valve.
Because of this, on this model, the valve cover, cam shaft holders & cap at the front side tend to show more brown colour than the rear ones. The colour and area size depend on how the engine was used, how the car was driven and how often the engine oil was replaced.

Quite often, people say no need to replace engine oil if you don’t drive the car regularly because of low mileage.
Also, some people tends to just start the engine occasionally and let it idle for a while without moving the car to circulate the engine oil during storage period.

Personally, I think these are not ideal from blowby gas point of view.

When the engine is cold, the metal clearance is still not at operating condition resulting in lots of blowby gas with moisture and etc.
Because of this, if the car was used for frequent short distance trips or the engine oil was not replaced regularly, it will show wider and darker brown area.
The later C30A and also all of the C32B engines are using the reversed routing for the blowby gas compared to early C30A engine so the brown area will tend to show up more at the rear bank.

If you track the car regularly or if you don't want to loose the lap time because of blowby gas, it is better to install oil catch tank or something to prevent oil mist into the intake.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8199 8200 8201
Time for another compression check.
Once again, spending hours on valve clearance adjustment paid off. The compression for all six cyl were within 2psi window. When the car was delivered, #6 cyl showed quite big difference from other cyl but now it is really close to others.

IGN Coil installed and torqued to the spec.

Applied silicone grease to the new rubber seal on the IGN Coil cover. Must items to be replaced.
Please apply silicone grease at least once a year in the future especially at the rear bank in order to prevent misfire caused by moisture getting to the base of IGN coil body.

8202
I may need to add small amount of extra coolant but for now, the Engine room is done.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8203 8204 8205
Cleaned and inspected the drive shaft joint. Normal wear was observed.
As seen on many NSX, the spider at the outboard joint was very loose making clicking noise. I could move it with my fingers.
During the refurbishment process, the spline will be staked so that the spider has to be pressed into the shaft to prevent future noise.

Painting the joints and white marker on the shaft.

Refurbishing the rollers. Another long hours planting these tiny pin bearings…. Not great when it's so cold and loosing the sense of finger. I had to bring them inside the room for this occasion. I promissed that I won't make any stain on the carpet....

Nearly done.

Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8207 8209 8208
As seen on many NSX, some of the rollers were showing the sign of scorching due to the grease got broken down. The scorching on this NSX is at very early stage and not too bad at all compared to other NSX. Very good timing to refurbish the driveshaft preventing further damages.

All six rollers refurbished with new grease.

Re-building the joint.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

So, something looked like this is now refurbished into these.
8210 8211
8213 8214 8212

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Time to install the driveshaft.

8218 8215 8216
The wheel speed sensor was cleaned and looked in very good condition.

Driveshaft installed and the spindle nut was torqued to the spec and staked to lock it.

8217
Time to re-assemble the suspension arms. Applied silicone grease on all of the bolt body.
Torqued them under 1G condition.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

8221 8220
The original oil filter looked fairly new but to be replaced.

As a normal procedure, I just filled up the new filter with the eng oil before the installation.

Before start of the service, the owner kindly informed me that he was told from the garage during the previous service that the oil drain bolt was cross threaded. Not the first time to hear this kind of story and in fact, I had to repair the thread or even replace the oil pan on many NSX in the past.

On inspection, it was quite bad but not to the level that I must replace the oil pan.

8223 8222 8219
Therefore, while draining the Eng oil, re-threaded the bolt hole to prevent leaving the debris inside the pan. As you can imagine, my hand and floor were covered in hot oil but cat sand did great job in absorbing it.

The bolt was replaced by the garage previously but double checked the thread.

You can extract bit more oil from the top side by suction pump.

Fired up the engine, checked around the car for any leakage and the oil pressure and adjusted the oil level later on.

As reported by many owners with early model NSX, the oil pressure sender unit may need replacing in the future. The pressure gauge inside the dash was sometimes showing only around 0.5kgf/cm2 and on other occasions about 2.0kgf/cm2 at idle. This sensor is different from the one used for low oil pressure warning and can be replaced without taking the valve cover off.


So, all of the mechanical services are done.

Just need to wait for the snow to clear before I can carry out the test driving session and wash the car.

In the mean time, the photo CD and the service log book report will be created in time for the collection of the NSX.

I just hope the road condition around my area will improve quickly…

There are two packages from Japan sitting at my local delivery depo since Monday and they are still not delivered…

Another package from US is somewhere at the Heathrow Airport and another one from different courier company was scheduled to be delivered today but then re-scheduled for unknown future….

I need these packages fairly soon….

Regards,
Kaz

[WhyOne?]

Astonishing work (and documentation) Kaz!

This must be a record for the amount of work carried out on an NSX in a single visit!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, WhyOne.
Thank you for the kind message.

The amount of work was not too bad compared to other NSX in the past.

In fact, as the owner was kind enough to follow my recommendation of combining several services in one go, it saved some of the cost and time for both of us.

For example, it makes sense to replace all of the coolant hoses at the time of TB/WP service while the coolant is drained and if the hoses are not replaced for many years.

Taking the Right drive shaft out for overhaul provides extra room when dealing with the two coolant hoses at the Eng oil cooler base and also for TB service.
I normally spend 1.5 – 2.0Hr just for replacing these two hoses during the standard cooling system service.


By the way, for those visiting this thread, I just started posting in the ‘Blog’ section as well.
Link to my Blog: Today at Atelier Kaz - NSX Enthusiast (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811)

The frame and format are kept very simple and it won’t look like other major Blog service.

Please feel free to leave any comments (negative/positive) there as one of the key feature of the Blog is the interactive tool and without the input from you, we are not utilising the benefit of this new feature enabled in the new style NSXCB.

Kaz

[goldnsx]

7952 7953 7954
Kaz, do you grease the piston and cylinder bore completely on the front ones or just the seal? The SM states the second and to use brake fluid instead of grease. On the rear ones it says to grease.

Thanks for your opinion.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, goldnsx.

I don’t use silicone grease but apply tiny amount of silicone oil compound on the outer surface of the piston on both the Front and Rear ones. I learnt this long time ago.

I don't apply anything on the calliper cylinder apart from brake fluid.

I do use silicone grease at the groove of the piston where the dust boot rubber sits.

Hope following description will give you better picture.

If you put the piston on the desk with the open end facing upwards and look at it from the side, the top section including the groove for the dust boot is coated in silicone grease.
Below the groove, it is covered in very thin silicone oil compound.


Even if you didn’t apply the silicone oil compound on the surface of the pistons, it will be covered by it once installed into the calliper because all of the seals (Front/Rear) are covered in compound any way.


I don’t use brake fluid on the piston surface as I don’t follow the procedure described in the manual when installing the pistons into the calliper.


Instead, I apply it on the calliper cylinder and seals or I should say, I have to use lots of brake fluid to flush the calliper after washing them thoroughly so it is covered in brake fluid any way.

Again, during the process, the piston surface will be covered in brake fluid as you need to either push or rotate them into the calliper where the seals (and cylinders) are covered in brake fluid and compound.



Very interesting difference between English and Japanese manual.
I normally use Japanese manual so didn’t know the difference that you mentioned and yes indeed, it states to apply silicone grease only on the Rear piston during the re-assembly process.

Also, in the English manual, there is nothing mentioned about the silicone compound or other grease and only the silicone grease is shown.


In Japanese manual, it shows the diagram for BOTH the Front and Rear calliper to apply the following grease/compound/fluid.

Brake fluid to the piston outer surface and calliper cylinder wall.
Shinetsu Chemical KS62M (silicone oil compound) to the seal.
Shinetsu Chemical G40M (silicone grease) to the lip/seal of the dust boot.
Cosmo rubber grease to the outer/inner surface of the dust boot except for the lip/seal.
Nippon Grease Niglube RM to the Rear Calliper parking brake Mechanism (needle roller bearing, shaft, shaft rubber cover, rod pocket)
Etc,etc, etc....

There are lots of other instructions but I think above is enough for your question.


Interesting enough, in Japanese manual, it doesn’t say anything about applying silicone grease on the REAR piston surface when installing it to the calliper.


I think the reason for applying it only on the rear piston is due to the way it is installed to the calliper.
You need to rotate it rather than to push it so the grease/compound will provide extra support for reducing the friction.


I have never tried applying silicone grease instead of compound to the seal or piston where it has the direct contact to the brake fluid inside the calliper.

I have a feeling that silicone oil compound is more friendly to the seal/brake fluid than the silicone grease but not confident on this.

I just keep following my standard procedure that worked for me for many years unless the manufacture changes the grease/compound/components materials.

Hope this will help.

Regards,
Kaz

[goldnsx]

Kaz, thanks very much for your explanation.

[mutley]

Kaz,

I'll be coming home for R&R between 27th March and 9th if April, if possible I'd like to catch up with you and discuss some work I'd line done on my car.

Let me know when is best for you.

Jim

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Jim.
Good to hear from you again and I can’t thank enough for what you are doing for everyone including someone like me from outside UK.


Will send you a PM later to discuss the subject further.


Regards,
Kaz

[gumball]

Kaz, wishing you and your country well in these very tough times. Stay strong.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, gumball.
Thank you for your kind message and also the nice Japanese text in your signature area.

Now-a-days, I’m spending more time on the Blog section than the Forum as it is easier to manage each subject so please have a look.

There are lots of kind comments from other members towards my recent blog on Japan as well.



I’m just doing my bits helping not just the Japanese people but also those who happened to be in Japan from other countries.



There are lots of countries helping Japan including the rescue specialists (and dog) from UK so can’t thank enough for all these supports.



Regards,
Kaz

[warrenw]

Thanks, I checked my '91 today. It has 38,500 miles and is due for a TB/WP change in a couple of years, but the crank pulley is original.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

All of the posts are now backed up in a single page without the attachments (image files, etc.).
Hope it is useful for some of you in order to search through this thread without flipping over the pages.

Details can be found in one of my Blog post here; NSX Health Check Thread - search support (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?442-NSX-Health-Check-Thread-%E2%80%93-search-support).

Kaz

[Metabro]

Hello Kaz


can you please post the part number from the NSX-R clutch pedal

regards
Martin

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Before going ahead with this project, you will need to significantly modify (cut, weld, etc) the Type-R CL pedal (RHD, JDM only) to install it on the LHD NSX. So, it’s not a plug and play.

Also, please check the pushrod length and the adjuster on the LHD CL master cyl are suitable for the Type-R pedal. CL master cyl body is different between LHD and RHD model but I have never compared the pushrod spec.

Depending on the country and year model spec, some of the CL pedal will have the notch/lever for the CL inhibitor switch built into the pedal itself. For Type-R, as it is JDM only, the notch/lever was not available on the NA1 pedal but available on the NA2 one. Depending on the spec of your NSX, you may not be able to start your engine unless you modify the electrical circuit or weld a metal piece to the CL pedal.

Type-R pedal requires different setup for the pedal height adjustment. Not easy to explain it and I’m not going to scan the manual and post it here for the copyright reason.

If you are going to adjust the pedal height using the Type-R pedal, you should consider installing the damper less joint at the same time. Otherwise, you may not have enough stroke length to completely disengage the CL resulting in grinding noise on selecting the gear.

From your other posts on NSXCB as well as on the NSX Prime, seems like you were doing some modifications on your NSX as well as selling parts.
If selling to other owners, please make sure to provide enough information.

NA1 Type-R: 46910-SL0-J00
NA2 Type-R: 46910-SL0-Z00 or N00

Kaz

[ozon02]

Hi,
"Don’t forget to replace the O-ring at the Oil Passage under the cam holder #1. There is one O-ring at each bank" its 91302-GEO-000 ,91308-PH9-000 ?

Post #446

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, ozon02.

In Japan, 91308-PH9-000 was superseded to 91302-GE0-000 many years ago.
You need three of them in total.
One each under the #1 cam holder at F & R banks plus 3rd one at the bottom of the oil level gauge pipe.

Kaz

[Sudesh]

Super info Kaz! I was wondering on this myself and looking at old NSX paper books service info. It's not even as good as your knowledge.

Maybe stupid question with my health condition, but do Japan move on quickly with part changes? And numbers?

[ozon02]

Post #449
"Applying torque to the bolts in the specific order in several turns using the digital torque wrench.
Very improtant process as this will affect the valve clearance adjustment later."
"specific order"-black numbers written on Bank Camshaft Holders?
"several turns"- 1 turns 1/3 specific torque,2 turns 2/3spec.torque

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Super info Kaz! I was wondering on this myself and looking at old NSX paper books service info. It's not even as good as your knowledge.

Maybe stupid question with my health condition, but do Japan move on quickly with part changes? And numbers?
Interesting point and as you suspected, probably true.

The main factor would be the access to all these Honda models and NSX variants that are not sold outside of Japan.
Also, having factory Refresh plan changes a lot in parts availability/stock level.

Addition to these, the parts manufacture/assembly location, local regulation, language used/displayed on the parts itself, etc would change the parts no. as well as availability.

As seen on here and on NSX prime, there are many parts discontinued at Acura or Honda UK, Europe but still available in Japan.
Recently, Honda Japan changed the menu of NSX Refresh program that I’m quite sure it had some impact on the parts availability as some of them were kept within Honda for this purpose.

I just hope the parts manufactures keep producing these parts for our NSX despite the fact that they won’t make big profit out of it.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, ozon02.
Probably you are asking question and I like your style so I'll try copying it in my answer.



"specific order"-black numbers written on Bank Camshaft Holders?
workshop manual. common procedure for this type of assembly. start from the centre, move outward in crisscross.







"several turns"- 1 turns 1/3 specific torque,2 turns 2/3spec.torque
know-how, experience. metal temperature, how to apply eng oil to the bolt thread and seating surface of the bolt head. line boring, how camshaft floats at journal with eng oil molecule level.


Kaz

[Sudesh]

Good day Kaz,

Yeah production stop is a bit of a problem, as you mention this is worse for all different models, years, country etc.

This has happened for Lamborghin too, they completely stopped producing parts for a few models I worked on. Even my own car, parts can't be purched any more.

[Sudesh]

Thank you for that kind reply and as always, great info.....

I have NSX paper work shop manual, old skool style. Then the old square style disc for compute, now proper round disce... But I pretty much don't need any as your help over years, is great....Also I'm frainds wiith a NSX spec guy in US who is very Clued in.

Who should see the paper book I have for my Diablo, it's just huge then a section open and folds out to show engine lol.


Interesting point and as you suspected, probably true.

The main factor would be the access to all these Honda models and NSX variants that are not sold outside of Japan.
Also, having factory Refresh plan changes a lot in parts availability/stock level.

Addition to these, the parts manufacture/assembly location, local regulation, language used/displayed on the parts itself, etc would change the parts no. as well as availability.

As seen on here and on NSX prime, there are many parts discontinued at Acura or Honda UK, Europe but still available in Japan.
Recently, Honda Japan changed the menu of NSX Refresh program that I’m quite sure it had some impact on the parts availability as some of them were kept within Honda for this purpose.

I just hope the parts manufactures keep producing these parts for our NSX despite the fact that they won’t make big profit out of it.


Kaz

[Problem Child]

Hi, all.

Addition to my NSX Climate Control Unit (CCU) service, I have been offering the NSX Health Check Service for some of the members here.
As I received similar questions on this, I would like to share some of the information of the service and the maintenance works carried out based on the result of this.

[Edit: It will take minimum of 4Hrs plus another 1Hr for the report.
Due to the time required and to be fair with the owners who are taking the further service based on the health check report, the new price is GBP250 as of May/2012 and it includes GBP100 deposit towards the future major services.
The depoist is valid for a limited time decided by myself and as it is recommended to take Health Check service once a year, the time limit will be much shorter than that.
The criteria of 'major service' to be decided by myself.
The depoist of GBP100 won't be refunded to the owner if one couldn't take the major service within the time limit unless separate agreement has been made with me.]

As I can only carry out this during my spare time at this stage, it will be private/friend basis.

I will inspect your NSX for about 150 check points from top to bottom and front to rear. During the health check, I’ll ask several questions such as when the last time this part was serviced so it would be nice if you can bring your service record or study them prior to the health check.

After this, I’ll summarise the recommended future service works with three different priorities so that you can discuss with your mechanic or myself to schedule the service timing and also spread the cost. It is recommended to carry out this kind of Health check every 6 months regardless of the mileage since the last health check.

As a personal opinion, anyone with NSX workshop manual can carry out the service work. Also, anyone with the parts list can place the order for you.

However, the service result would be different depending on the knowledge, skill, experience and so on. On top of these, there are several things that can only be detected by the sense/feeling which is not on the workshop manual.

You could be ordering a part without knowing the fact that it could be repaired rather than replacing or it could be upgraded with small extra cost.

Addition to these, knowing the car from the development stage, understanding the specific design reason of each parts and experience in the motor racing will make different level of service.

Some of the members decided to go ahead with the Health check service and even went further to leave the car at my place or placed orders for the parts.

Followings are some of the works that I carried out recently.

New Front Brake Disks and Refurbished Front Brake Calliper with new pistons
5345 5346


ABS service including flushing the four solenoids
5347 5348

Hi Kaz, hope you are well. Are you still offering the Health Check Service. If you are I would be interested

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Geoff.
Thank you for showing your interest to my service and yes, I’m fine and really busy but still breathing.
Just replied back through email so please take a look.

There is long-long waiting list at the moment due to massive delay caused by new issues found every time when I started servicing NSX that I never serviced before.

Joy of working on the classic cars.

I’ve just made changes to the time I spend on servicing the NSX, discussion on parts stock, etc.
All these changes are positive but won’t make difference overnight so I’ll keep focusing on what I’m doing.
At the moment, my recommendation is to combine the Health Check with other services such as Brake overhaul, cooling sys refresh, annual service, etc.

Any way, please take a look at the email as that's the best way to contact me while handling lots of communications in the background.
You can contact me through WhatsApp if you need urgent support.
FB Messenger is OKish although I found out that not everytime I get the notification so hard to reach me through there....

Kaz

[Arfan Butt]

Hi Kaz....would like to know if you still carry out your inspection services please....