2002 Type-R Steering wheel with OEM boss

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, all.
There are lots of nice write up on similar subject so I hope I’m not duplicating too much information. However, there were not much photos on OEM steering wheel and the boss that has 9 fixing holes so I hope this will provide you with some idea.

I bought the Type-R steering boss last year (seems like long time ago…) but until recently, I couldn’t decide on the steering wheel itself due to the design, leather feeling, price and so on. As I am going to use the Type-R boss which is the modified one from Momo, I have to use the wheels from Momo or the one with the same pcd. Some of the manufactures use different pcd so please be careful.

At the end, I decided to go for the OEM 2002 Type-R steering wheel. It is based on one of the Momo steering wheel (Tuner for 02R?? Corse for 93R??) and costs about 3 times more of the original aftermarket one from Momo.

Please note that removing the SRS system from your car may affect your car insurance condition and also against the local regulation in some of the countries.
Also, you will loose the function of cruise control if you don’t create a new switch circuit after removing the SRS steering wheel.

The photo of the steering boss can be found in the post #18 of the link below;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?5820-Aftermarket-Steering-wheel-boss&p=52981#post52981

The photo of the steering wheel can be found in the section no.13 in post #3 of the link below;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6271-Lots-of-Parts-from-Japan&p=57245#post57245


1. Park the car so that the steering wheel is in the straight position.

2. Remove the cable from the battery terminals.

3. Removing the SRS module
There are three TRX Star screws to be removed. Two on the left and one on the right side under the cover. You may be able to see on the photo that red thread lock being used on these screws so be careful not to damage the screw head when removing them.
Take off the left side cover first and remove the RED connector from it.
Immediately, insert this Red connector to the SRS module connector as in the photo. This is to avoid accidental trigger of SRS by static current.
5422 5421 5424
Now move to the right side cover behind the cruise control set/resume switch.
Just remove the middle screw which is the only TRX one on this side.
Now you can take out the SRS module like this.
5423 5420

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

4. Removing the steering wheel
Disconnect the horn connector (centre, black one) and cruise control switch connector (right, yellow).
Remove the SRS connector (left, yellow) from its holder.
Ask someone to hold the steering wheel or use the impact wrench to loosen the self-lock nut at the centre of the steering wheel.
5428 5429
Unlike other production cars, NSX is NOT using the tapered spline so the steering wheel will just slides off from the shaft.

During this process, please do not apply any side/forward/backward force to the steering column. There is a crushable structure that allows the entire column to move forward in case of big accident. This structure could be partially damaged if you are not careful and results in entire column moving side way (left – right) with little effort. This is a quite common issue among the owners who tend to grab on the steering wheel on getting in/out of their NSX.

5. Remove the 2 screws at the driver under cover above the driver’s knee. Be careful not to loose the two rubber caps attached to the front of this cover.

6. Remove the instrument lower cover, the tilt cover and steering lower cover. Remove the clip and disconnect the Yellow SRS cable attached to the tilt cover.
The workshop manual states to remove the steering upper cover as well. This is to access the screws holding the ‘cable reel’. If you are careful, you can access them without removing the upper cover.
5425

7. Remove the cable reel by carefully removing the screws behind the face of upper cover.

8. Keep the turn signal canceller sleeve in this position. When you fit the Type-R steering boss, these 2 metal projections will slide into the slit at the back of the boss.
5427 5426

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

9. On SRS steering wheel, the horn switches on both sides and the cruise control set/resume switches were connected through the cable reel. As we removed the cable reel, we need to create the connection to the contact plate at the base of the steering boss for the horn circuit. I'll leave the cruise control for the time being.

First, prepare 2 kinds of cables like these. Short one is to disable the SRS warning light and the other one is for the horn circuit. These cables will be inserted into the yellow mating connector where the cable reel was originally connected.
5430 5431
The length will depend on the routing of the cable.
The yellow connector is from JAE so I was lucky enough to have the exact mating pins.
The other end of the longer cable will be connected to the hand made metal part described below so attached the ring terminal.
Please insert the cables as the photo below.
5432
Please note the orientation of the connector by looking at the position of the connector lock.
If we count the pin no. from left to right on this photo, insert the long cable at #1 and short cable at pin #4 & 6.
Use self adhesive tape to keep these pins in place.


By the way, by placing a momentary switch between pin #3 and #1 (high level) will act as the ‘SET’ function for the Cruise Control and the same scheme between pin #2 and #1 to act as ‘RESUME’ function.
I will probably add just the SET switch later at the time when I replace the steering column cover to the Type-R spec.The original lower cover for SRS steering wheel has small half moon shaped hole for the cable reel adjustment window that no longer exists.

Here is the link to the 'SET' switch installation;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1413-KSP-ABS-Upgrade-Loom-Cruise-Control-switch-01

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1419-KSP-ABS-Upgrade-Loom-Cruise-Control-switch-02

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

10. Now we need to create something to establish the connection to the contact plate at the base of boss.
For this, I used the cardboard from the cereal box to use it as a template.
(I think our member Sudesh used great idea to create this circuit and he posted it on Prime in the past.)
Based on the cardboard template, I cut out the aluminium sheet and placed it like this. I used the two fixing screws originally designed to hold the cable reel.
Make sure that this hand made part doesn’t touch any of the metal part other than the contact plate at the boss. Otherwise, your horn will be continuously triggered when you re-connect the battery.
Route the long cable that was placed at pin #1 of the yellow connector above and connect the ring terminal to the hand made metal sheet with the screw as in the photo.
5434 5437

11. Apply good quality grease at the contact plate of the boss. This is very important as after several years, it will start to make some noise every time when you turn the steering wheel if the grease got dried out. For this reason, I didn’t use the ordinary conductive copper grease. Instead, I used race spec bearing grease. It’s not conductive so don’t apply too much.

12. Regarding the tension of arch shaped metal sheet, you just need to play with it. Not too soft but not too hard against the contact plate. It will look like this when the boss was placed in place.
5435

13. Tighten the boss using the self-lock nut with torque wrench.

14. Put the silver ring (for horn button contact plate) on top of the boss and then the steering wheel.

15. Use three of the nine fixing holes to secure the steering wheel and push in the horn button. This button is very expensive so don’t damage it.
5436

16. Place the black ring over the horn button and use the remaining six fixing holes to tightly secure the steering wheel to the boss.

17. Re-connect the battery cable and check the horn circuit.

18. Once you are happy with it, put back several covers that you removed during the installation.

19. As you removed the battery, you wiped out the study coefficient value of ECU. Go out for a drive and let the ECU to learn the state of engine again. Check for the centre of steering wheel and try the horn circuit again.

20. Job done.
5433

See you all at Japfest.

Regards,
Kaz

[eclipse1501]

Great write up Kaz. My experience with the NSXR wheel is all positive and the improved feedback through the wheel reminded me just a little of my time in single seaters. Feels strangely thin at first and encourages good wheel etiquette (quarter to three) reminding you to search for those thumb "cut-outs" when cornering.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Just for the record.

The SRS steering wheel and cable reel weighed just over 5Kg. What a heavy wheel...
5585

Regards,
Kaz

[mutley]

Hi Kaz,

That is perfect timing bringing up this thread, as I was wondering about how to wire in different buttons for the cruise control, and that looks so simple, by just connecting to #3 +#1 for 1 button and #2 +#1 for the other.

I have opted for a Momo wheel to go onto the NSX-R hub with the horn button on the middle and Sparco Steering wheel buttont for the cruise control.

I noticed that inside the hub there is a wire with a conector on it, I thought that may be for the horn?

Cheers

Jim

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Jim. Good to have you back in the country.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F9gEhfEU5d4/VASqxgIgvtI/AAAAAAAAT-c/Fo3vgPMzQ20/s800/IMG_0687.JPG
This is the Type-R/NSX-R steering boss and the single wire is going to be connected at the back of the horn switch/button.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qrgol7UHLbA/UWPkiKYp0nI/AAAAAAAAI8Y/41U4ltZxPpk/s800/IMG_1961.JPG
That wire is connected to the base of the boss that is the contact plate where the DIY spring metal piece will slide against it while the steering wheel is turned.
The spring metal is connected to the DIY long single wire from the SRS yellow connector under the steering column so it's at the high level.



Depending on the type of horn switch (single/double terminal), you will need to decide how to complete the GND circuit to activate the horn relay.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-punbw33i7UU/UWPkAMwHneI/AAAAAAAAI24/zWwOz8pdJCk/s800/IMG_1789.JPG
For the OEM R horn switch, it's a single terminal type so it needs another method to establish connection to the GND level when the switch is pressed.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k6-3ikgQt9Q/UWPkAuIc5OI/AAAAAAAAI3A/Q3nSu4G3TEA/s800/IMG_1790.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qzFkPFg_dfI/UWPkC82HdkI/AAAAAAAAI3Y/YM6Gge2kVu4/s800/IMG_1795.JPG
For this purpose, the OEM switch is placed inside this silver ring and the outer spring of the horn switch will create continuity to the silver ring.




https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-um_5IYtgSk4/UWPkfyCpBRI/AAAAAAAAI8A/NZ5lc2El2j8/s800/HornButton.JPG
You can't see it in this photo but the silver ring itself is mounted directly to the boss body that is at the GND level so when the horn switch is pressed, the GND circuit is completed and it will activate the horn relay.



Cruise control is much simple.
All you need is the high signal level at the Set or Resume terminals at the Cruise Control Unit for the non-DBW model and at the ECU for the DBW one so there are many options on how and where to place the switch.
Some of the owners in Japan utilised F-matic lever to act as the Set and Resume switches.

Personally, I don't need Resume/Accel switch and only the Set one is useful so I'm thinking of installing just a black momentary switch near the half moon cut out at the left side of lower steering column cover.


Here is the link to the 'SET' switch installation;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1413-KSP-ABS-Upgrade-Loom-Cruise-Control-switch-01

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1419-KSP-ABS-Upgrade-Loom-Cruise-Control-switch-02



Kaz

[mutley]

Thanks Kaz,

Excellent info as always.

Cheers

Jim

[bbvnsx]

Hi Kaz!

I'll be installiing the nsx-s steering wheel soon, came across your thread and decided to ask... I see that you fabricated a small part to establish the connection to the contact plate at the base of boss, but i was wondering what solution does Honda use on the NSX-R/NSX-S... is it possible to order a part from Honda japan to do this? or is this not an option? If yes, can you help me with part #?

Thanks,

Bruno


10. Now we need to create something to establish the connection to the contact plate at the base of boss.
For this, I used the cardboard from the cereal box to use it as a template.
(I think our member Sudesh used great idea to create this circuit and he posted it on Prime in the past.)
Based on the cardboard template, I cut out the aluminium sheet and placed it like this. I used the two fixing screws originally designed to hold the cable reel.
Make sure that this hand made part doesn’t touch any of the metal part other than the contact plate at the boss. Otherwise, your horn will be continuously triggered when you re-connect the battery.
Route the long cable that was placed at pin #1 of the yellow connector above and connect the ring terminal to the hand made metal sheet with the screw as in the photo.
5434 5437

11. Apply good quality grease at the contact plate of the boss. This is very important as after several years, it will start to make some noise every time when you turn the steering wheel if the grease got dried out. For this reason, I didn’t use the ordinary conductive copper grease. Instead, I used race spec bearing grease. It’s not conductive so don’t apply too much.

12. Regarding the tension of arch shaped metal sheet, you just need to play with it. Not too soft but not too hard against the contact plate. It will look like this when the boss was placed in place.
5435
...
...
...

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Bruno.

For NSX-R, Honda didn't provide the horn contact plate as a standalone parts and instead, it was included as part of another steering column/satellite sw/cover parts.

If you want to use OEM parts, just search on the parts system and look for the parts description as 'Horn, shoe' from another model.
The parts no. starts with 35259-.

You can use the one from Civic/Integra/etc Type-R models.

You will still need to modify or adjust the shape so for me, it's quicker and cheaper to create own design.


Kaz

[NZNick]

Bruno, does this help?

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88292

This is the parts explosion for my Type S wheel - no 35259-SH3-A02 in sight:

http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=24749&fig=B&fig1=3102

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Please adjust the tension if using OEM parts from another model.
Also, it’s very important to apply high quality contact grease at the back of the steering boss/hub where the contact plate slides against it.
Otherwise, you will get squeaking noise after some time and eventually, you will create deep channel on the contact surface of the boss. Not good....

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Hi, Bruno.

For NSX-R, Honda didn't provide the horn contact plate as a standalone parts and instead, it was included as part of another steering column/satellite sw/cover parts.

If you want to use OEM parts, just search on the parts system and look for the parts description as 'Horn, shoe' from another model.
The parts no. starts with 35259-.

You can use the one from Civic/Integra/etc Type-R models.

You will still need to modify or adjust the shape so for me, it's quicker and cheaper to create own design.




Thanks For the Information Kaz!




Please adjust the tension if using OEM parts from another model.
Also, it’s very important to apply high quality contact grease at the back of the steering boss/hub where the contact plate slides against it.
Otherwise, you will get squeaking noise after some time and eventually, you will create deep channel on the contact surface of the boss. Not good....

Kaz

Will make sure to find a high quality contact grease to use!





Bruno, does this help?

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88292

This is the parts explosion for my Type S wheel - no 35259-SH3-A02 in sight:

http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=24749&fig=B&fig1=3102


That's exactly what i was looking for! An OEM part! Thanks!

[UnhuZ]

Hi,


This is the parts explosion for my Type S wheel - no 35259-SH3-A02 in sight:

http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=24749&fig=B&fig1=3102

I think it wouldn't appear in this diagram, but in the steering column or combination switch instead.

Thanks,
Nuno

[Wavey1]

I'm doing this installation at the moment and have some information about the OEM parts kit that is available with this hub. The kit has everything, so you don't have to fabricate anything. This site isn't letting me upload the photos, but they're in this link to the NSXC Prime site, posts 5 & 6:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/200423-Steering-wheel-install

[NSXGB]

Hi Wavey, do you happen to have the part number of the horn contact plate please? (The part in your first photo).

[Wavey1]

Hi Wavey, do you happen to have the part number of the horn contact plate please? (The part in your first photo).

I don't think it has a separate part number, is just a part of the kit? It doesn't have a number on it and I haven't been able to find a listing for the separate parts in the kit. What's weird is the part number for the kit comes up as an NSX-R NA2 shift boot! But this does appear to be genuine Honda parts, has pairs of rubber and cloth gloves like they pack with some parts. I could post a photo of all the pieces in that kit if you'd like.

[NSXGB]

Cheers for looking. Yes, I checked out that part number and saw that it was for the NSX-R mesh boot...

[goldnsx]

The recent video of the the comparison of the new NSX and the 'old' NSX-R makes me think if I'm the need of a different steering wheel. Jethro praises the feedback of the steering of the NSX-R. That's what I'm after.
So I'd like to hear some feedback or comparisons from the Type R steering wheel to the Standard-Airbag one regarding steering feedback. How would you rate the difference? Is it really that pronounced or should I save my money?
I was happy with the steering wheel (and the seats) so far. But if there's something much better out there I'd might change my mind. :)

BTW: what is the weight of the NSX-R steering wheel or the Momo tuner (I might go that route not the expensive one)?

[bbvnsx]

You can see weight here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/119014-A-dream-come-true-daily-(history-of-a-proud-ownership)?p=1141172&viewfull=1#post1141172

According to Nuno (UnHuz) upgrading the steering wheel is a must!

FYI i'll be upgrading mine to the Type S one, you can see it here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/170650-BBVNSX-93-EDM-NSX-From-Portugal!/page4?p=1929880&viewfull=1#post1929880

Regards,

Bruno


The recent video of the the comparison of the new NSX and the 'old' NSX-R makes me think if I'm the need of a different steering wheel. Jethro praises the feedback of the steering of the NSX-R. That's what I'm after.
So I'd like to hear some feedback or comparisons from the Type R steering wheel to the Standard-Airbag one regarding steering feedback. How would you rate the difference? Is it really that pronounced or should I save my money?
I was happy with the steering wheel (and the seats) so far. But if there's something much better out there I'd might change my mind. :)

BTW: what is the weight of the NSX-R steering wheel or the Momo tuner (I might go that route not the expensive one)?

[UnhuZ]

Hi Thomas,

i can assure you, once you have a Momo Tuner (the same as the NSX-R),
you will throw your OEM one on the "parts for sale" forum ;)

you can't imagine the difference... the steering becomes immediate.. go-kart like.

I felt a bigger improvment with the steering wheel swap than with coilovers or
NSX-R front swaybar...

it's like the Nike slogan: Just do it !!

about the weight... if you follow the link Bruno gave you, you will go
to my build thread... the weight difference is 2,5Kg lighter.
(OEM vs Momo Tuner 350mm + NSX-R Momo boss/hub + NSX-R horn kit)

Nuno

[goldnsx]

Thanks very much for your valuable feedback. Let's (strongly) think about it. :)

Did you also throw the SRS module (below the Alpine stereo unit) out of the car? When I revised mine its electronics felt like 1-2 kg. Or do you have to keep it to avoid the SRS light in the dashboard (which would be not too difficult to get wrid of)?

[bbvnsx]

Now that you listened to Nuno's feedback, you understand why i thought about so "strongly" that i decided to upgrade mine lol :D

I can't give you my feedback since mine is still waiting for the installation... I'll be also removing my cruise control unit... so there is a bit more weight to save there...

[Pride]

A lot of you guys are removing stuff to reduce weight, are you all looking to make time attack weapons as it must be very time consuming removing the electronic components, particularly if you should want to convert them back to standard again later???:rolleyes:

[NSXGB]

A lot of you guys are removing stuff to reduce weight, are you all looking to make time attack weapons as it must be very time consuming removing the electronic components, particularly if you should want to convert them back to standard again later???:rolleyes:

Must be owners of red cars, you should know that red cars need all the help they can get...

[goldnsx]

Yes, the correlation to red cars can clearly be seen. :)

I was acting quite conservativly regarding mods in the last few years (stress on last few :)). If you change the 'direction' every 5 or 10 years you can survive it. As the middle console is now open for another install I'm not far from working down there. The BOSE speakers won't get installed the next time when the door panels have to come off for a window guide greasing procedure and so on...

I'm not going back to stock anymore as there are plenty of stock cars out there. The future buyer should better buy a stock car before perpetrating the horrible crime of de-modding a Type-S like car. :)

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

It's the effect of thick grab diameter with smaller wheel diameter and much more reduced inertia so just try any aftermarket one from reputable manufacture.
OEM one is nice and I have it but you don't want to know the latest price, even just for the horn button….

Just be careful selecting the hub/boss because it will change the distance towards the satellite levers (indicator, wiper, etc), switch position/distance (horn, hazard, cruise control, etc) and of course, the geometry against your arm/body.
Personally, I recommend the one with crushable mechanism built-in to the hub itself, like the OEM one as I think Momo no longer manufactures their own version.

Also, please check your local regulation especially in Europe and Japan.
The warning light regulation changed from this year so removing SRS module and disabling the warning light on the model that was originally fitted from the factory may cause issue.


Kaz

[UnhuZ]

Hi,


Thanks very much for your valuable feedback. Let's (strongly) think about it. :)

Did you also throw the SRS module (below the Alpine stereo unit) out of the car? When I revised mine its electronics felt like 1-2 kg. Or do you have to keep it to avoid the SRS light in the dashboard (which would be not too difficult to get wrid of)?

yeap...i removed everything SRS related: ECU, passenger airbag, yellow harness and chassi sensors...
you can check my build thread with weights on everything... you save a lot

about the time attack car because of removing weight... this is a different approach.
you can get more performance in 2 ways:

- mods that give you HP or improve chassi dynamics

or

- remove weight

a long time ago, a friend told me that in a 1000kg car, you would get the same
performance by removing 100kg or adding 40hp.

it's cheaper to remove weight, at least until we have to replace parts with lighter
ones.

Nuno

[goldnsx]

I'm not going with the NSX-R MOMO with its silly high price. I could live with the cheaper MOMO Tuner and its red stitching. Hub and horn will be OEM. They can be got in Japan for reasonable prices, the steering wheel will be bought here locally. I hope to get everything below EUR 1000.

Nuno: the third option is the best one: more hp and less weight. :D

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

Yeah, the OEM NSX-R Momo Steering wheel has a stupid price... the only diference
to the Black Momo Tuner 350mm is that the Tuner doesn't have the MOMO logo
engraved in the metal, it's only painted, and has the "tuner" word in red. I erased
both... doesn't say a thing.

Out of the logo, they are 100% the same, not a difference.

About the OEM hub and horn, Marc can get it way cheaper than anyone else directly
from Japan. He is a vendor you can trust.

About the performance... aheahehaeh... that's for sure... the less weight and the
more power you have, the better ;)

Nuno

[goldnsx]

..."tuner" word in red. I erased
both...
Ahhh, that's the 'secret' of your steering wheel. I was puzzled by your pics because your steering wheel didn't show the red 'Tuner'-logo.

[UnhuZ]

Yeah... i deleted/erased both because if you just erase the tuner red word, then the
yellow MOMO word won't be centered...so... both gone...

[NSXGB]

Yeah... i deleted/erased both because if you just erase the tuner red word, then the
yellow MOMO word won't be centered...so... both gone...

I did the same and had some "MOMO" vinyl stickers made up the replicate the 'R' wheel closer and make the word central.

[goldnsx]

I've checked with my local regulation and according to them some paperwork needs to be done but it's doable. I need Honda Switerland or Europe to sign that it's ok to remove the airbag and a garage that signs that the airbag has been removed by the required guide from Honda. You can remove the airbag if you want to install a different steering wheel or in the case you don't replace a failed airbag. I claim it has been failed after 26 years and I'm short of money. :)

[UnhuZ]

Thomas, whatever they are confortable with so you can do what you want :P :P

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q367k-4lDv2W5rd_HCcceQqMW1wZls3vcJXVpx0lE_MOAfkT4dKAW4Ux CWixf4AtXtu7GAgtddQScQZgeLJPxkXT27LBbWpLtEs121usVh xuNBMRg--njHFyTwlV7B_TBNU4OhGciQpnZ_IPAaCOZu-1tZpN6yTXjC3uyIlCyjZHdD56lhZbMGO6YyrNNkyc2IDaadtyo z8gCG63taoBA3sv794AsT_DK3zafiP2psFpxsT6bdMHc2lcIuq 1Iv9OAEy4p8VtyaoB2dvtDnGBbXWSSiNaF7U_X2r6L_CW9SeEa yZNL4JjLUO8smPTKmI0Uz2WxxWBpdXsjmHyPlpgwxcQMUxZCOO-AUTQzsz3mzCWnPQuvECOcD3V9Ca3_TgCijhIdq_noZO6P4nGw-bfp4ta_0zmXNyg9fNW5Y86up_4b7azVE1kvH0cECk_VzKoatWG 44ppen5taQrq77OhHISzcOQ-LEsUK6btbEkd3QXZIsjtRVAQaOinIwg1ni_s-ULLi8yDwrv6rPdYizKnNLwTU4QQncwWlf5jrdu5j83Gkj6JVUq HOqlC9FHtf4aDitkIpGLUqZqUC5NGq55zZEpsv3GEMQLGu9KSE QsNFQ-t-jgtFJIS=w800-h600-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K2sg6ne9PhMJBGoBbJfiq1weH6Y9q9Cv9aasTrBXi5eKfzez7C ag60HNCdpAj8NF_qsHLkhIkXF6fKcjqUNeKVkbvsAlU6GVC948 zWbzQKidr5M0yTS7kgkVvzYLtUsIc1AO4F_Q47acbyAlV92OWj XF72UOvhqQqgUbFkAs1B52Ay3PWUylaW2_7UTgwlq0EfEDhhKU 40c0IlC7UfzNLhhMHT7cyEuZd8Jdz1L2DpFDb3BzLo7NQ2utA6 tmMbXY9vBCwaPKh5AacnInaU_kLzUKuze3FRQPyLKiDtzVxom0 wcnucjlArx9PJuV0LyxISTPO24jy4ooM0y8vEBvn9nbAWGzCie e7DRi1I-HPZfXN0meK4fC_6vVjrQVWmaWDXBNqMUhiOMnwfynQIbYdITej P_9vybZiv8vHfvF9duGXq3CfQKv_PW5LxreZOMaChtz0ryNmnU u6E7yV7PzA39hcYbe9sB9kNz6kt9w5TZLnyADZifiMMlr3ntF7 efsR9nayp6-bgsIdhrLG-DuM9hO4spqSMuGII56R0wURGRFxwONOsOeQUTUIanQ62nR8Al_ vCe05QQnyUmczuItMA4e-zAIe_9PH5fxLVZB_HHUf9efckpintA=w800-h600-no
For the record, OEM steering wheel and hub have extra fixing holes.


Kaz

[UnhuZ]

Hi Kaz,

yeap... and having installed the MOMO tuner, i now know how those extra holes help a lot ;)

They allow you to fix the steering wheel to the hub and then install the horn bits AFTER...
not all at once ;)

i WILL do the extra holes in my Tuner the next time i have to get it out for some reason.

Nuno

[goldnsx]

Canceling the drivers airbag is hard to do legally. Honda will only allow it if the car is purely a track car and has 4 or 6 point belts and the like...
So the Type R steering wheel died for me and I hope the bloddy OEM airbag doesn't quit tomorrow because there's no solution for it.

[bbvnsx]

Hi goldnsx!
Here in Portugal i couldn't even get Honda help to change my wheels and tires from 15/16 to 16/17 OEM setup... so I guess we are alone... fortunately there are other places here that you can use the services to be legal and get homologation of parts... one of them is the auto technology laboratory... do you have something like that in Switzerland?

[Pride]

Canceling the drivers airbag is hard to do legally. Honda will only allow it if the car is purely a track car and has 4 or 6 point belts and the like...
So the Type R steering wheel died for me and I hope the bloddy OEM airbag doesn't quit tomorrow because there's no solution for it.

I understand that Switzerland have one of the strictest if not the strictest driving and car modification laws in the world.
Is that true???

[goldnsx]

We have strict rules but most of them are taken over from the EU. But I think we are a little bit less corrupt. :D You can regard this fact as + or -. - In this case. :)

We've strict speed limits but I guess the UK has even stricter ones due to the story that I've read about the wife of a F1 teammanager (exSpice? not sure) has been fined for speeding...way OT.

Yes, we have some kind of 'special laboratories' which can help you out but it's always ££££ or $$$$. But if you let them test and do a certificate it would be allowed for any NSX in this country (or even EU?). The problem with this approach is that one has to start it and has to pay it fully while some other guys are eager to get a free copy of it. Not to offense anybody but some kind of 'group buy' would really help here.

In the videos I've seen about the Europe events in the past (I can't attend, sorry) I've seen quite a few NSXs with aftermarket steering wheels. All legally? Having a different steering wheel is not the problem, the problem is the deactivation of the airbag.

16/17: funny that you mention that. In the Swiss homologation both sets are listed. During the CTSC certification process the 'special laboratory' even listed the 02+ wheels for my car. So they are now legally on my car.

I've written an mail to a 'special laboratory' and will see what they can do for me.

[goldnsx]

We are a step further. If the belt is sufficient enough, so the airbag is not needed. These are the stickers on my belts (first two: driver: next two: passenger):

12967129681296912970

'Ar4m' on my passenger side is clearly visible. Unfortunately it's not visible on the driver side. Could anybody check if the drivers belt shows 'Ar4m'? UK: right side, EU: left side.

Thanks in advance.

[goldnsx]

Anyone? Thanks.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, goldnsx.

My NSX is JDM 94 and it doesn't have the 2nd label in black with E markings. Only the white label on the seat belt.
I have another NSX at my place but that one is also JDM and different year model but without the black label so could be the case that we won't see it on JDM.

Hope someone on here with UK or European models can assist you.

Kaz

[L696ULO]

Hi Goldnsx

just checked my 1993 UK model and there is not a 2nd label on the drivers side although there are remains of some silky black material as if there had been a label there. I'm wondering if the belt having more usage it has frayed and come adrift or been removed?

Rich

[goldnsx]

Thanks for the update. Yes, my black label look a little bit 'used' too.

As the label was required for Europe as 'E4' clearly indicates the JDM cars don't have it even tough they might have strict rules too. It also means that I'm not able to get a replacement belt from Japan if it ever fails. Just wondering what the US guys have...

I'm not sure about JDM cars in the UK but are these allowed without the 'E' label?

[duncan]

UK car, 1995, no 2nd label but the the single black tag is marked Apr4m
The 'blacker' photo with the thumb is the Left hand Side [passenger in UK]

[duncan]

UK 1995 car, The single tag is looped back on itself, the underside / return has the E marks
000521 is the Left Hand Side [passenger in UK]

[bbvnsx]

Hi goldnsx,

My NSX is a EU (LHD) model (1993)

here my drivers belt stickers:

1298012981

[bbvnsx]

And a bonus picture of my Type S steering wheel (installed 3 days ago):

12982

[goldnsx]

Thanks very much for the update. So they have changed the seat belts around 1993 when the passenger airbag was added. All infos on a single sticker instead of two.

1991: Ar4m
1993-: Apr4m

According to https://www.colliseum.net/wiki/ECE-R_16 (sorry German) is Apr4m = belt with a pretension system (if translated correctly from "p = Gurt mit Vorspanneinrichtung") while the 1991 belt does not have this feature. I'll ask my engineer about that.

One more belt of a 1991 would be helpful. :)

[UnhuZ]

Hi,



One more belt of a 1991 would be helpful. :)

i will ask 2 local friends to take a photo and send to me ;)

i can check mine, but it's a 97 (late 94/early 95 build) so i don't think
it will help you... will it?

Nuno

[goldnsx]

Thanks Nuno.

I've checked the part no. in the catalog:

1991 04818-SL0-A03ZC Outer Set, L Front Seat Belt *NH84L* (Half Black) $361.01
1992 04818-SL0-A03ZC Outer Set, L Front Seat Belt *NH84L* (Half Black) $361.01
1993 04818-SL0-A15ZA Tongue Set, L Front Seat Belt (Outer) *NH1L* (Black)2 $704.36
2002 04818-SL0-A15ZA Tongue Set, L Front Seat Belt (Outer) *NH1L* (Black)2 $704.36

1991/1992 have the same belt. Their price is the same as for the passenger side. From 1993 upwards the part no. changed and the price nearly doubled. This must be because of the added pretension system, 'pyromaniac' :) or better 'pyrotechnical'. The last character (A or C) refers to the color of the belt.

Even an 'Apr4m' belt is safe enough without the airbag. If there was a 'Z' in front of the characters like 'ZApr4m' the belt would be an integrated part together with the airbag. You would not have a chance to mount a different steering wheel legally. But as our cars are old enough...:)

One thing that just makes me wonder is how the pretension system is activated. If gets a pulse from the SRS module you should not remove that off a 93+ car.

[bbvnsx]

When i installed my type S steering wheel i also removed the firewall engine insulator, and while working there i could see the warning stickers from the pretension system, this also made me decide against removing the SRS ecu and sensors!

[Silver Surfer]

From my 91:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll48/silversurfernsx/IMG_8349.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/silversurfernsx/media/IMG_8349.jpg.html)
UK Passenger side

There is no black tag on the drivers side..just the white tag

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll48/silversurfernsx/IMG_8344.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/silversurfernsx/media/IMG_8344.jpg.html)
UK drivers side.

SS

[goldnsx]

Thanks, Silversurfer, I guess that the black one on the driver side was lost due wear. Mine looks worn/unreadable too.
So we're looking for a 91/92 with low miles/no wear/garage queen...:)

[Silver Surfer]

I suspect it is lost from wear as well as it is missing from my early 93 as well....maybe worth asking Plans Motorsport to see if any of their many cars have one.

SS

[Pride]

My 91/92 drivers side (right) white label, no black label though.

12983

[goldnsx]

And a bonus picture of my Type S steering wheel (installed 3 days ago)
Is there a difference between the Type R and the Type S except for the middle section?

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Type-S one is believed to be based on Zagato.
NA1 Type-R one is Corse and NA2 NSX-R is Tuner.

The touch of leather is similar between Type-S and NA2 NSX-R but obviously, the shape is different especially around the spoke section.
I felt the slight difference in wheel diameter as well as the grab diameter/thickness but I could be wrong as it was long time ago.

The difference between NA1 Type-R and NA2 NSX-R is mainly the leather touch and the stitching.
The base model is different but similar design.
The NA1 leather feels smooth and shiny. I think the standard is red stitching.
NA2 one is like more friction on the leather surface and mat finish. Black stitching.

Kaz

[bbvnsx]

Type-S one is believed to be based on Zagato.
NA1 Type-R one is Corse and NA2 NSX-R is Tuner.

The touch of leather is similar between Type-S and NA2 NSX-R but obviously, the shape is different especially around the spoke section.
I felt the slight difference in wheel diameter as well as the grab diameter/thickness but I could be wrong as it was long time ago.

The difference between NA1 Type-R and NA2 NSX-R is mainly the leather touch and the stitching.
The base model is different but similar design.
The NA1 leather feels smooth and shiny. I think the standard is red stitching.
NA2 one is like more friction on the leather surface and mat finish. Black stitching.

Kaz

^^^ This, and i can confirm that diameter is very close to the Airbag Steering Wheel, so if NSX-R is 350 mm the S whhel is bigger by aprox 10 mm

BV


Is there a difference between the Type R and the Type S except for the middle section?

[goldnsx]

Finally, I've found a 1991 with very, very low mileage. 'Ar4m' was the letters I was looking for.

[goldnsx]

My expert told me it looks good to get wrid of the airbag legally.

One question: how many screws do I have to order, 6, 9 or 12? I'm going with the OEM boss but the aftermarket MOMO Tuner instead of the overprised OEM steering wheel.

No. 3 and 4 seem to be the same: http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=19668&fig=B&fig1=3102

[NSXGB]

Just 6 required.


My expert told me it looks good to get wrid of the airbag legally.

One question: how many screws do I have to order, 6, 9 or 12? I'm going with the OEM boss but the aftermarket MOMO Tuner instead of the overprised OEM steering wheel.

No. 3 and 4 seem to be the same: http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=19668&fig=B&fig1=3102

[UnhuZ]

Thomas, you would require 9 if you used a OEM Momo steering wheel.
Using a Momo Tuner only 6 are required, as Simon said.

i will drill the 3 extra holes on the Momo Tuner, then i will also need 9,
OEM, which i already have, bought a long time ago.

Why the 9?

You use 3 to secure the OEM steering wheel to the OEM Boss, these 3
are the extra holes, outside of the 6 universal pattern.

then you use the other 6 to secure the horn ring to the steering wheel.

This will make MUCH easier the job of leveling straight the horn's "H" and
center it inside the Black Ring.

Nuno

[goldnsx]

The 78514-SL0-R01 (red 'H') is out of stock at my supplier. The Type-S/Zero had a black one I could live with but I didn't find a part no. yet. Anybody?
On the other hand I can use the one that came with the MOMO steering wheel first.

[NSXGB]

The 78514-SL0-R01 (red 'H') is out of stock at my supplier. The Type-S/Zero had a black one I could live with but I didn't find a part no. yet. Anybody?
On the other hand I can use the one that came with the MOMO steering wheel first.

Have you tried Marc Perez or JP for the horn button?

[bbvnsx]

Type S - Part no: 78514-SL0-Z71ZA



The 78514-SL0-R01 (red 'H') is out of stock at my supplier. The Type-S/Zero had a black one I could live with but I didn't find a part no. yet. Anybody?
On the other hand I can use the one that came with the MOMO steering wheel first.

[goldnsx]

I've ordered at a different Japan supplier directly in Japan. They had a too good to be true price, maybe that's the reason it's not available. In eBay there are millions of horn buttons (but at a higher price than I was about to order). But up to $300 for a piece of plastic made in Italy, c'mon?! Also not sure how many of them are fake.

Thanks for the part no.

I guess I'll mount the MOMO horn button that came with the steering wheel first and give it a try with the next order...

[goldnsx]

Does anybody have a hint how to remove the red 'Tuner' off the MOMO steering wheel? I've tried with all kind of paint thinner and strong solvent but it can still be seen.

[UnhuZ]

Hi Thomas,

I removed it all, both Momo and Tuner, with a hard rubber (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31RFYSXAW7L._SY450_.jpg) bit for my dremel mini drill.

I also removed the Momo, because by itself it isn't centered.

Nuno


Does anybody have a hint how to remove the red 'Tuner' off the MOMO steering wheel? I've tried with all kind of paint thinner and strong solvent but it can still be seen.

[bbvnsx]

Here is how the Honda part # 35259-SH3-A02 (contact plate) installed looks like:

http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u535/bbvnsx/IMG_3756_zps941mqzyy.jpg

Once again thanks so much for the help!!!


Hi, Bruno.

For NSX-R, Honda didn't provide the horn contact plate as a standalone parts and instead, it was included as part of another steering column/satellite sw/cover parts.

If you want to use OEM parts, just search on the parts system and look for the parts description as 'Horn, shoe' from another model.
The parts no. starts with 35259-.

You can use the one from Civic/Integra/etc Type-R models.

You will still need to modify or adjust the shape so for me, it's quicker and cheaper to create own design.


Kaz


Bruno, does this help?

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88292

This is the parts explosion for my Type S wheel - no 35259-SH3-A02 in sight:

http://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=24749&fig=B&fig1=3102

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D7x4MUGMGjvaCLiwTwFZTbmOeLjx2xhVboYCMtbCE2SC7onKYp 1FMxHNnN0p3FEreEfcVYr1sCnZ5Wy_KPII__hSy26ulzuuQ_W4 dV6CHCeWtgYJGKsAeNQAWQmof6aZfoQY0hUlwUmyEB6ekSzE3E GfZHgR2RGNr3CEro68o3zFWf8HVyrFapU6kaWNaokUNyTRzbdM nXp5TGt23lGO2jgF1eMtz_N_4CBqhvXN4Uxsh53GUUoAWAjJLX GqKbibtiZ5FqPbMFN8u9C961jyeWRJ8BU7KbMJqffoE-ev3wtkqNnlquLsUwnpV12SnYNMGm3iotEvqZwl8jhyrWBn4sJI tXpW8sjd6WU99HNzmlSQDvOGoD_Qm5sv0ukOurC5ljN2nyqGZn Kj1c2TvNWgIzyspvdLttK7KBcZ2lk3LZOzmOV8rOnwe6Ub-Jar4Rni0kOzpRTquv245nSeuoJdZyjKFOp17xiJ2eYmLVRZJJR-Xjanjz5_EG3AC3SJxlvGpxKfcqMd7_qVZRmJsSoqwYnlqhTld1 8gMXNC58oIXaRSMs0bHMCSi7BpJXYIHROn3J_r9htSRiStXS_N sqkeMPr84yaEe3j6rZAAJXR57DXU8oX7Jg0z8la4Pg=w862-h486-no

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Going to place these here for the geometry purpose.

From the edge of the upper column cover, the mating surface of the steering wheel sits at just about 120mm.

Part of the base of the steering hub/boss is concealed inside the upper/lower column cover.

Depending on the design of the steering wheel, the position that you grab the wheel with your hand doesn't necessarily sits at the same plane as the centre section
so please use this 120mm distance as a reference only.

Best creating model using cardboard or something and attach your steering wheel to get the feeling before installation.

It is important to check the distance to the turn signal lever and wiper switch with your hand still on the wheel.



Kaz