ABS Bleed

[Sudesh]

Done an ABS Bleed/Flush today.

Tools used:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00415.jpg

First removed all the old fluid from the resevoir, with the sealey syringe.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00414.jpg

Then filled with new fluid
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00416.jpg

I then removed the ABS motor relay in the fuse box and attached the motor switch to the upper terminals
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00411.jpg

[Sudesh]

Then remove the cap from the bleed nipple
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00417.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00418.jpg

With the cap removed I attached the OEM Honda bleed wrench
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00410.jpg

With the bleed wrench attached I turned it till the brake fluid stops flowing, then closed it. I then turned on the motor switch until the fluid emptied from the resevoir, and repeated the above until only fluid was in the bleed wrench.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSX%20ABS%20Bleed/DSC00412.jpg

[Sudesh]

When the resevoir was completely empty, I installed the relay and put the top on the resevoir and went for a short run to exercise the ABS, the ABS motor will start to run when the car moves which is normal.

After the run, fill the resevoir to the MAX line and that was it! Job done

Basically these are the steps in short:

1-Remove motor relay
2-Connect a switch to top connectors of relay socket
3-Suck out old fluid from ABS reservoir and refill with good
4-loosen maintenance bleed screw until fluid quits - then retighten it
5-close the switch to the motor relay socket for 30 secs
6-loosen bleed screw until fliud stops - then retighten it
7-do this until only good fluid comes out
8-refill reservoir
9-close the switch to the motor relay socket for 30 secs
10-top off reservoir
11-close the switch to the motor relay socket for 30 secs
12-and test drive

[TheSebringOne]

Looking good Sudesh, but how often do you have to do this or just do it periodically? Would it be recommended when changing the brake fluid?

[Sudesh]

Looking good Sudesh, but how often do you have to do this or just do it periodically? Would it be recommended when changing the brake fluid?

Thanks! I read that it should be done every 2 years or 30k. As it doesnt share fuid with the brake fluid, you can do it when you like, also if you have no record or cant remember when the last time it was changed or flushed, then definately worth doing.

I'm going to do the solenoids shotly too, although my ABS doesnt make the "ticking sound" Its still important to do the solenoids along with the ABS bleed. Also very important to exercise the ABS system an least once a month by going into an empty car park or somehere where you can jump on the brakes and get the cars ABS to kick in, gravely surface is best.

[gumball]

Also very important to exercise the ABS system an least once a month by going into an empty car park or somewhere where you can jump on the brakes and get the cars ABS to kick in, gravely surface is best.


I do this on the road, that way I can help exercise the car behinds ABS too. :)

(kidding)

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Sudesh and all.

It is best to carry out the ABS bleed and activating the four solenoids in one go otherwise, you are going to mix the old and new fluid.

Bleeding the high pressure brake fluid using the ABS T wrench will replace only the part of the entire fluid.
I also prefer replacing the entire fluid after activating single solenoid as I don't want to pump back partially old fluid back into the accumulator and also the fluid will contain tiny air bubbles after activating the solenoid which is against the whole purpose of ABS bleeding.

While driving and braking hard to activate the ABS regularly will help in preventing the sticky solenoids, it is best to activate each solenoids manually as you won't be able to lock all four wheels constantly and also you won't be able to detect the already sticky solenoids.

On earleir models, I think there are several owners running with sticky ABS solenoids without noticing it.
If the solenoid is electrically fine (no open/short circuit) but mechanically stuck Closed, the ABS controller won't trigger the yellow ABS/ALB warning light on the dash.
If it stuck Open Wide, then the system won't be able to keep the required high pressure and trigger the warning light after the pump was activated for a ceratin period (more than 100 - 120sec, I thought...).
For the case of stuck Open partially, it depends on the situation as the slow leakge won't run the pump long enough to trigger the warning light.

The only way to check this is to activate each solenoids by applying the battery voltage directly and monitoring the fluid being returned to the reservoir.

Quite often, you will hear the click but no fluid returned on one of the solenoids.

Hope this will help.

Regards,
Kaz

[Sudesh]

Hi, Sudesh and all.

It is best to carry out the ABS bleed and activating the four solenoids in one go otherwise, you are going to mix the old and new fluid.

I also prefer replacing the entire fluid after activating single solenoid as I don't want to pump back partially old fluid back into the accumulator and also the fluid will contain tiny air bubbles after activating the solenoid which is against the whole purpose of ABS bleeding.

Kaz

Thats exactially what I'm going to do Kaz! I'm just putting together a kit for activating the solenoids using OEM parts and a rocker switch, so its all plug and play and nice and simple.