Oil and additives.

[jaffaz32]

I'm going to order some oil and additives.

Going to get a service and change the oil.

How much oil does the nsx hold? how much needed in other words for oil change.

Also same question with the gearbox, how much oil does the gearbox use?

and water wetter for the rad how many bottles do you add?

I'm ordering Royal purple 10W30 for the engine.

Redline MT90 for the gearbox.

and as mentioned water wetter for the rad.

[Sudesh]

I wouldnt bother adding anything!

For the gearbox just stick to Honda MTF3 if your car is manual.

Same for the engine, use a 10w-30 oil. I guess depending on hard you drive and if you do track days then you may want to choose a synthetic oil. However I think a more frequent oil change is more important, so I just use 10w-30 and do regular oil changes.

Gearbox holds around 2.7L from memory, but I usually due the visual measure by filling the box up until it drips out the fill hole, then let it drip out until the measure is level with the hole.

Unscrew the fill bolt first, because if you unscrew the drain bolt then find you cant get the fill bolt out, you may leave yourself in an awkward position. You can also remove the strainer from the gearbox to get a general idea on gearbox health, check for metal shards.

[AR]

Did you get a manual with your car? if not download this:

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Service_manuals

more info than you could ask for!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Most of the information can be found on the Workshop manual so I recommend reading it if you want to understand your NSX better.

Replacing Engine Oil + Oil Filter: about 5.0L required
Replacing Engine Oil: about 4.3L required
Engine overhaul: about 6.0 – 6.3L required
No need for additive on production car engine like NSX.

Replacing MTF: about 2.65 – 2.70L required
MT overhaul: about 2.80 – 3.00L required
Please use Honda MTF-3 due to the structure/mechanism of oil pump and oil passage unless you are tracking your NSX regularly.

Replacing ATF: about 2.9L required
AT overhaul: about 7.0L required
Please use Honda ATF-Z1

If you are having problem with your cooling system or if you are using your NSX under the condition exceeding the OEM cooling capacity on the coolant/oil, then it is best to solve the problem or modify the system than using some chemical in the coolant.

For street and occasional track usage, well maintained coolant system is enough.

For your reference, not many people is aware of the fact that the radiator is also a kind of consumable.

After many years of usage even just on the street, the cooling efficiency dropped dramatically due to bent/clogged fins by all sort of flying debris. Also, the OEM one is using recycled aluminium shell with plastic tank clamped at the top and bottom.

Unlike most of ordinary production cars, the hot coolant will enter the radiator from the bottom side at high pressure. Thus, you may experience coolant leakage from this area and time to replace it.

You will find several good aftermarket ones with multiple return passage for higher cooling efficiency.

Kaz

[greenberet]

Personally, I’ve had good experience with Water Wetter.

After top speed runs on the Autobahn, I used to find little droplets of coolant sputtered about the engine compartment in the area of the expansion tank cap. Since the coolant temperature gauge never showed an increased temperature, I figured that was probably the result of local coolant boiling around the exhaust ports at 8000 rpm and full throttle.

Since I’ve added Water Wetter to the coolant, there have been no more traces of coolant in the engine compartment after top speed runs.

The principle behind Water Wetter is that it is supposed to lower the surface tension of the coolant. By doing that, if the coolant boils when touching hot metal, the bubbles separate from the metal sooner and stay smaller. Gases are not nearly as efficient at cooling as liquids are, so the sooner the gaseous bubbles lift off the aluminium and liquid coolant gets there again, the lower the local temperatures will stay.

That’s the theory at least and it does seem to have worked in my car. However, if you don’t run the engine hard enough to boil the coolant, Water Wetter probably won’t provide any benefit over a regular 50/50 mix of distilled water and Honda Type 2 coolant.

[Sudesh]

Did you try replacing the coolant cap? The seals do perish over time which may have been at fault.


I used to find little droplets of coolant sputtered about the engine compartment in the area of the expansion tank cap.

[greenberet]

Did you try replacing the coolant cap? The seals do perish over time which may have been at fault.

Good point! No, I didn’t replace the cap or even have it tested. All I did was add Water Wetter and since that cured the sputtering during top speed runs, I didn’t look any further. I’ll have the cap tested to see whether it loses pressure when 95-125 kPa are applied and whether, in retrospect, that might have cured the problem as well.

[goldnsx]

Replacing Engine Oil + Oil Filter: about 5.0L required
Engine overhaul: about 6.0 – 6.3L required
I'm wondering where the difference of oil can be found in the engine. I remember - after getting the oil pan off - having about 1-2 dl of oil in it after draining. A second place I recall was the oil cooler. Any other places?

[jaffaz32]

Thanks for the info guys.

[Nick Graves]

Did you try replacing the coolant cap? The seals do perish over time which may have been at fault.

I was thinking the same.

Maybe the water wetter acted like my favourite cure-all, Holts silicone & rubber lubricant!

[greenberet]

I’ll have the cap tested ...

I just took the cap off and it still looks to be in perfectly good condition. The seals are still soft, pliable, and don't have any cracks and it takes quite a bit of pressure to compress the spring. Unfortunately, my Honda dealer doesn't have the equipment to test the cap according to the procedure in the Service Manual and neither do two other dealers I went to. So I can't confirm that the cap is still OK, just that it looks OK.