NSX Technical and Service Information Index

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

[UPDATE] Due to the number of text getting close to the limit, some of the categories in this thread will be
moved to another one here; NSX Technical and Service Information Index 02

(http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?9724-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index-02) If you were taken to this thread automatically by the link in other posts,
please check out the above link if you can’t find the specific categories below.

Thank you.

Some of the useful information from my NSX Health Check Service as well as other post/thread.
Please hover your mouse on the text and click.

I would like to say thank you to the members who allowed me to post the link to their thread.
Precious information for all of us. Will be updated regularly.

Regards, Kaz

8573











It all started from here... The Story


The NSX Story (English, 7 Pages, Link to Honda Worldwide Site) (http://world.honda.com/history/challenge/1990thensx/index.html)


Diagnosis

How to read the error code... SCS terminal (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?9229-How-to-read-the-error-code...&p=85855#post85855)


'NSX Health Check Service' thread back up without IMG files

10723


Engine/Tyre

Intake Valve Guide failure (http://nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?72-Potential-C32B-Engine-failure-–-Intake-Valve-guide)



Engine Refresh Stage 1



[*=1]Blog Category: Eng Refresh Stage 1 + LMA (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=51)

[*=1]TB/WP/Valve Clearance Service Parts List, Parts Photo
[*=1]Blog Category: TB/WP/Valve Service (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=29), Sample B, Sample C, Sample D
[*=1]Parts compariosn - standard service VS mine (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?132-Preparation-for-the-TB-WP-service)
[*=1]Why best to replace WP at the time of TB service..., Reason B






Engine Refresh Stage 2



[*=1]Blog Category: Engine Refresh Stage 2 (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=49)







Lost Motion Assy, LMA
Valve Clearance, Tappet Wrench Set
Crank Pulley, Sample B
Crank Pulley, the story behind...
Header Installation
Blog Category: Cooling (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=34), Sample A, Sample B, Sample C
TH Butterfly Cleaning
Fuel Filter
DBW, non-DBW
Ignition Coil (IGN Coil), Sample B, Sample C
What is the 'Best' Engine Oil for our engine?
Advan Neova AD-08 UK size (Link to Yokohama H.P.T. Ltd.) (http://www2.yokohama-online.com/gb/tyre-products-dimensions.php?tyreID=1288)
Advan Neova AD-08 Impression (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?86-Advan-Neova-AD-08-Compliance-Pivot-without-ABS)


MT/AT/Drivetrain

Why Honda MTF-3
Drive shaft OH, Blog Category: Driveshaft (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=37), Sample B
Check your MTF Strainer, Sample B, Sample C
NA1 Type-R CL Pedal and Damperless Joint


Brake

ABS Upgrade Parts List
ABS Upgrade Process, Blog Category: ABS Upgrade (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=30)
ABS History (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6286-NSX-Health-Check-Service&p=75279#post75279)
Blog Category: ABS Original (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=31), Sample B
ABS Accumulator Replacement (Link to the thread by the member 'britlude')
Calliper OH, Sample B
Calliper & Bracket Polymer Coating Service (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?382-Brake-Calliper-amp-Bracket-Polymer-Coating-Service-02&goto=prev)
Master CYL OH, Sample B
Goodridge Custom made Brake Line (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?340-Goodridge-Custom-Made-Brake-Line)
Blog Category: Brake (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=40)

[NSXGB]

If you want to have something added to the list, please let me know through email or replying to this post.

How about overhaul process for seized Compliance pivots...? I seem to remember you having done some work on this already?

[WhyOne?]

The click-able index is fantastically helpful - thanks for taking the time to set this up Kaz.

[gumball]

Thanks Kaz, very useful indexing.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, everyone.

Thank you for the kind comment and I'll try to update it regularly.




How about overhaul process for seized Compliance pivots...? I seem to remember you having done some work on this already?

Hi, NSXGB.

A while ago, I was planning to borrow one of the ex-owner’s spare Compliance Pivot to take some photos to show the procedure.

However, it is now at the lower priority as I’m more interested in locking the compliance pivot all together.

As a reference, if you can prevent several bushes from moving in each direction, you may be able to perform the followings on the car but it is very likely to taking the compliance pivot out of the car.


The aim is to release the ‘cup’ at the bottom of the pivot.


This is the one adjusting the caster and it is round/ring like shape aluminium.

You can see the diagram in the 'suspension' section of the workshop manual.

If you study the bush and pivot assy movement, you will understand the direction of the force to be applied.


Quite often, the technique we use is to cause thermal shock to break the seizure.


To frozen the material, you can use lots of freezer spray for electrical components test or put some ice cubes into the juicer, crash them into small particles and put them into Zip lock bag.


If you have special access, I used to use liquid Nitrogen as well. Then, apply/hold/place it against the pivot and cup.


Once they are freezing cold, pour warm water.


Repeat this several times and after a few tries while the parts are still warm, apply penetrating oil to the cup.


You may want to try to submerge the cup into a bag of penetrating oil but be careful not to inhale the fume or melt the bag.


You don’t want boiling hot water as you may damage the rubber bush inside the pivot and you only need to cause repeated thermal shock.


Try to rotate the cup but be careful not to damage the cup or the tabs.


The cup is not sold separately and if you break it, you must buy the whole pivot assy….


There is another technique for the seized bush at the camber adjuster bush collar/bolt but I’ll touch on this at some point.


Kaz

[NSXGB]

Thanks Kaz.
You may remember that my castor adjustment was seized. I have managed to buy two spare compliance pivots to play with so am well prepared.
I would be interested in how you aim to lock the compliance pivot, I assume you mean without the aftermarket pivot clamps?

[nobby]

many thanks for the great index Kaz :)

Super!

[havoc]

The click-able index is fantastically helpful - thanks for taking the time to set this up Kaz.

Agreed. Thanks very much Kaz.

[cas]

Hi Kaz

Car just failed MOT worn front lower passingerside ball joint. It seems Honda do't do ball joints and the whole knuckle has to be replaced. Have you ever replaced one one these ball joints? Is a the knuckle on a LHD drive car the same as on a RHD?

regards

Claudio

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Play at the ball joint especailly at the front lower section is quite common on NSX.
It is due to the way the damper is mounted compared to the rear.

If you gather 10 NSX, at least one of them will have some play even without being noticed by the owner.


RHD and LHD NSX share the same Knuckle but you need to be careful as there are different spec depending on the Year model as well as NSX-T/Coupe/NSX-R.


New parts are not cheap, I'm afraid....
Last time when I checked, they were about US$600 - 700 + delivery/duty/tax from Acura and about GBP800 - 900 + VAT from Honda UK.


There is a person on NSX Prime who can replace the ball joint for you.
He seems to have very good feedback from other Prime members.
Forgot his member name but if you search on Prime with 'ball joint', you will find him.


I think one of the member here considered using his service but not sure whether he went ahead or not.
May be, it was our member 'mutely'??


Although I have separated the ball joints at the knuckle several times, I have never replaced the actual ball joint because as you found out, it is not sold separately from Honda and I don't know the cost effective method.


Again, on Prime, there was another member who used aftermarket ball joint from Japanese manufacture 'Sankei' and replaced his ball joint with small extra mod.
Sankei is a very reputable company and OEM quality so good option. They sell their products under '555' brand.


By the way, if you are sending your knucle to US, just separating the ball joint is something you don't want to do by yourself everyday.


Even with the correct tool, you are going to sruggle because it is 'super & mega' tight and there is always a risk of damaging the ball joint pin.



By the way, in order to keep this thread as an 'Index page' and not for posting the technical questions, best to start a separate thread for any question.

Even better if you contact me through the Blog section as I normally focus in that area these days and not on the Forum.


Kaz