HID Bulbs

[Nick Graves]

I need to source some HID bulbs for my car - the existing ones are bluer than my language extracting the seized headllight cover bolts (one now has a big slot Dremelled into it!) and I cannot see with them and they will probably fail an MOT, since they no longer like blue bulbs any more. They're probably only the 6000K ones, which everyone was told were 'better' when they're not.

So I'm only after some regular 4300K daylight ones, but the connectors look slightly different from the usual jobbies. IIRC, they are NSX specials, but the search seems FUBAR. The Ballasts are Korean Interpower ones, if that helps.

Any ideas?

TIA!

UPDATE:

Looks like they're standard bulbs as such, but the protocol for the connectors has change over the years! I dunno me KETs form me AMPs and my brain hurts....

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Nick.

For some reason, from time to time, some of the new posts don’t seem to be recorded in the ‘Recent Posts’ area of homepage so only just found your post.



I think AMP Superseal connectors are widely used these days and I guess the replacement HID bulbs will have AMP connector than the KET type.
You can find lots of replacement HID bulbs from many vendors over the internet.


I used HIDs4U in the past and seemed to be OK but haven't really tried any other vendors so no comparison here.



If this is my NSX, I’ll simply replace the connector on the ballast side to the mating AMP Superseal.

You can get them from Farnell UK or other vendors.

Obviously, you will need the crimping terminals and the wire end seals.

You should use the proper crimping tool but not cost effective for a few DIY job.

I use special electrical plier which is good enough for this purpose.

Just don’t solder the wire for any area with vibration.
(As a side note, always wondered why Thatcham requires the cables to be soldered or crimped… Using soldering method on the wire in vibration environment is a big no no in my industry…)


Alternatively, there are several vendors offering AMP Superseal – KET adaptor loom over the internet.

Hope I understood what you are after….


Kaz

[Nick Graves]

Hi Kaz,

Thanks for that - I think I've found a vendor who still stocks Blesk KET-connector bulbs at www.HIDorigin.com. Except he's out of stock this week...

I have a proper crimp set (I hate those nasty pre-insulated crimps with a passion!) so it would be an alternative to the adapters.

The funny thing was, none of the websites were particulary clear about it & nothing looked like my car's connectors. Once I photographed my connectors & posted them up, they suddenly looked like the ones on some websites. Then again, most Hondas are extremely unphotogenic & look far better in reality than they do on the web. Eyes are funny things.

[Nick Graves]

Update; the problem I've got is the 23Kv +ve wire is just under 4mm thick and won't fit any KET or AMP connectors I've found.

A tad frustrating - looks like new ballasts is the only solution.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Nick.

Not sure why your system is using such a thick cable….

Yes, it’s high voltage so it requires good insulation but the current consumption at the bulb (burner) is not that high and thus, the two wires from the burner would be in similar gauge of the ones used on the OEM Halogen headlight unit.

Insulator could be thick but not the actual wire.


May be, I’m talking about the different wire/connector than the one you were looking at…


Kaz

[Nick Graves]

Kaz; it's really weird - the -ve is a standard 1.5 mm2 with a KET and then there's this 3.75mm diameter hosepipe coming out with a weird connector no-one's ever seen. It is a funny kind of insulator, I think and I think the connector's off a truck or something.

The story is that Interpower were one of the first Korean manufacturers and had that unusual design. They were taken over by a Chinese company and the later connectors were switched to the Chinese standard KETs, later AMPs.

I never even thought it would be a problem to swap connectors. But now I need one with a rubber seal that will take a 3.75 mm wire at one end and a 2.0mm at the other. In fact, the claws of a KET connector are too tight over it, although they could take up to a 3mm diameter wire.

I probably could do something with heat shrink insulation, but I don't want bodges at 85v (or 23,000v at start-up).

It's kind of interesting and a bit frustrating at the same time.