Main relay compatibility

[Tokyo-Joe]

Hi all,

I have a replacement main relay for my 91 JDM nsx that I'd like to use. This replacement came from a 96 car and has a different part number and bracket. The bracket i can modify to fit but is the relay safe to use?

Thanks!

[NSXGB]

I think DBW was introduced around 1995, so you are trying to use a DBW main relay on your non DBW car, I vote it won't work, otherwise why would they have changed it? Stranger things have happened though...

Useful site to check your part numbers here: www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/)


EDIT: Exactly the same price, so maybe just the mounting bracket then? Not sure you are gaining much by replacing yours with one a couple of years younger? As sorepaws says, resolder yours and it should be good for many more years to come. If the 1996 relay is compatible, solder that too and keep in the glovebox as a spare... There seems no definitive age that they fail, some have gone in < 10 years, I think mine is original at 18 years (nothing in service history to suggest).

[sorepaws]

Several posts from Kaz about the main Relay - Search "Main Relay" and you will find them. If you are good with a soldering irons you could refurb the old one. I think the relay is the same for all - but Kaz could confirm that.

Hope to see you at one of the 2012 Events

[Tokyo-Joe]

Ah thanks guys, it looks like I need to do some more research!

Sorepaws - i'm paid up for Japfest 2012 so looking forward to it :D

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Tokyo Joe.

The circuit board and the internal components are the same between the non-DBW (your NSX) and DBW spec Main Relay.

Please visit my ‘NSX Technical and Service Information Index (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?8732-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index)’ thread at the ‘Sticky’ area of the ‘Technical’ forum.
Under the ‘Electronics’ section, you will find the detail about the ‘Main Relay’.

The relay on the circuit board itself was upgraded in the early 90’s so if you are replacing it with an used one, it is better to get the later spec one.
Ideally, you should replace it with the new one because you can’t confirm the state of the relay contact surface without breaking it.

New one isn’t an expensive parts if you get it from US or Japan. About GBP35 – 40.
HUK is about GBP108 (non-DBW) or GBP117 (DBW).

When re-soldering it, you must control the temperature and know how to apply the solder.
The actual cause of the issue is the size of the through hole against the diameter of the lead of each component. The hole is too wide and thus, you may think you have re-soldered them properly but quite often, there is a big air pocket/gap under the surface of the solder.

Re-solder the later spec one and just swap the bracket. Use it as a temporary measures until you can get the new one. Once replaced with the new one, keep the re-soldered one in the glove box as an emergency spare for yourself as well as for other owners.

Kaz

[Tokyo-Joe]

Thank you Kaz, I will follow your advise :)