Using Jump Start terminals for trickle charger?

[goldtop]

My car has an alarm/immobiliser and therefore has some drain. And it's not a daily driver. So - to make sure the battery's not flat when I do want to go out - I want to use a trickle charger. The workshop manual kindly explains where the 'jump start' terminals are in the engine bay.

I'm hoping I can use these, which are far more convenient, instead of trying to get to and from the battery itself whenever I want to drive/park the car.

Anyone doing this already?

[NZNick]

I had my garage instal the eyelet lead and connector which came with my CTEK battery charger/maintainer on the battery + & - leads so that all I have to do is lift the bonnet, unclip the CTEK connector extension lead before driving the car, and the reverse when I park up in the garage. The connector is positioned above the battery towards the front firewall and has a rubber waterproof / dust cover.
https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-char...nect-eyelet-m6
Takes 30 seconds before driving, and a whole minute when plugging back in, in the garage.

[goldtop]

I had my garage instal the eyelet lead and connector which came with my CTEK battery charger/maintainer on the battery + & - leads so that all I have to do is lift the bonnet, unclip the CTEK connector extension lead before driving the car, and the reverse when I park up in the garage. The connector is positioned above the battery towards the front firewall and has a rubber waterproof / dust cover.
https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-char...nect-eyelet-m6
Takes 30 seconds before driving, and a whole minute when plugging back in, in the garage.

Perfect - that'd work for me. So I've just ordered a CTEK to replace the bulky Ring charger I've been using until now.

Thanks!

[duncan]

For those in the cheap seats, CTEK sell an extension cable with a male plug at one end and a females socket at the other. If this is cut in half the cut ends can be grafted onto anyone else’s smart charger.
I have an older CTEK at one end of the garage and an adapted Lidl’s finest smart charger at the other end of the garage.

[FlopShot]

There's also a magnetic breakaway connector that you can purchase for the CTEK. So if you drive away and forgot to disconnect the tender cable, this mag connector simply falls away. Finding a good place to mount the mag connector is the tricky part, I started looking but never got around to it on the NSX, and then switched to an Anti-Gravity lithium-ion battery with ReStart so no longer needed the tender. But here it is on my Lotus, just so you get the idea of what it does, it's held to the rear license plate screws with a 3D printed holder, as the battery in in the boot directly behind the taillight. You can purchase the whole kit here (Lotus parts site): https://hethelsport.com/tools/charger-connection-kit/

[goldtop]

Thanks FS. I've got a CTEK on order and will see how I run the cables when it arrives. I think I'll have to try some type of aide memoire to remind me of the charger being attached. Worse case is leaving the bonnet propped open. That magnetic thingy is a nice idea though - Plan B.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

For your inspiration....






For the GND (yellow), I used the bolt (green) at the welded bracket (light blue).

With the multimeter, the mating thread at the bracket was reading very good GND level.


For the positive terminal, I thought for a moment as it could be misleading.
But going to show my setup as the reference only.
Please do your own risk management.






The CTEK cable doesn’t have its own fuse block but at very short length.

My MXS 5.0 is rated at 5A max.

The block (pal) fuse in the photo is slow blowing type and only available in large amperage.

Couldn’t find adaptor that can accommodate fast blown blade type like 7.5A.

Based on the above and with some risk management, I selected this 40A (rear defogger) position that first goes through the 120A one.
I carry all sorts of spare fuse including these block type on my NSX.
I can live without the rear defogger under emergency condition.
Other fuses could prevent you from driving.
Having said this, by the time 40A fuse is blown, I would say the CTEK wire would be fried and melted.
After all, it’s slow blown type so most likely, won’t be able to drive anyway and thus, please do your own risk management.
The fuse box arragement would be different depending on the spec and year model as well.


For the 'self reminder', I always keep glove in the glove box and whenever I have to connect the battery conditioner, I place it over the shift knob.

I also use notice board hanging from the rear view mirror if there is something to be warned/remembered in case someone else enters the car.

These days, if you attend some of the car events, you get ‘hang at the mirror’ ticket instead of ‘stick to the windshield’ so plenty spares.


Kaz

[goldtop]

Perfect Kaz. Wow.

Thanks for such a detailed explanation. I will follow your example as Plan A.

And I will buy an extra glove.

[priesh]

Hi Kaz - I'm new to NSX ownership and am going to fit a CTEK connector similar to you soon. Can I ask why you connected the +ve eyelet to that rear defogger position and not use one of the +ve jump post screw locations? Is it because you wanted a fuse inbetween?

Cheers!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, priesh. Welcome to the Forum.
Small community but everyone trying to help each other.


Pretty much main reason was described in the above post so I’ll add extra info.

As mentioned, it could be ‘misleading’ unless you carry out your own risk management.


If you are not sure of your setup, please just add fast blown blade fuse socket close to the battery or the fuse/relay box for added safety.


I selected this method based on my garage setup, fuse/relay box design and most importantly, the procedures that I have to follow when using the battery conditioner.

Please note that the fuse/relay box layout is different depending on the spec of one’s NSX.
I also use extra optional fuse (7.5A) in there.

I have electronics control background and based on the risk management, decided to use that pal slow blown fuse block.

For me, the risk of causing short circuit other than the internal CTEK failure is very little.
By the time the 40A fuse is blown, the thin CTEK wires would be fried.

I use the same CTEK eyelet wire at the front directly connected to the battery terminals and for that one, I don’t even use fuse close to the battery.
Again, it’s based on the risk management specific to my environment/procedure.

CTEK has its own short circuit protection circuit internally (you can even try it, I did) so if the cause of short circuit is going to be within the CTEK module, the circuit board has to fail.

Outside of the CTEK module, it will be caused by the wire damages due to mishandling, moved the car without disconnecting the cable first, wire being chewed by the small friend, etc.
Or, by the actual car battery internal failure.

With my setup, I can’t even move the car or start the engine without first carrying out specific procedures and hence, very low risk.


As a side note, if your battery is not healthy, don’t rely too much on any ‘basic’ battery conditioners from the likes of CTEK, Accumate/Optimate, etc.

They won’t be able to detect several battery failure modes.

Because of this, even if it says 100% fully charged, you may not be able to crank the engine or even after the successful start, you could be stranded at the next stop.

I use affortable digital battery tester for my purpose and so far, it served quite well when CTEK misdiagnosed the battery health.


Kaz